The Ultimate Cooling Mod
03-16-2012, 10:19 AM
#521
Senior Moderator
I Hate Cars,
Here is the DIY (untested) for making both fans run continuously without gaining access to the ecu. It seems that my first instructions were a bit inaccurate (pun, haha). Only one wire (B10 FANH Green) needs to be grounded (not two wires that I had thought).
In the pic below, please see the red-colored ground symbol that I added to illustrate the goal. The goal is to use a typical gauge wire (16-18 ga.?) as a jumper, splice the jumper into the relay socket wire (green wire, socket 4), and send the other end of the jumper to chassis ground.
In the pic below, please see the red arrow that points to the relay that has the "B10 FANH Green" wire on it's #4 terminal.
By the way, here is the Ultimate Cooling Mod for Dogs
Here is the DIY (untested) for making both fans run continuously without gaining access to the ecu. It seems that my first instructions were a bit inaccurate (pun, haha). Only one wire (B10 FANH Green) needs to be grounded (not two wires that I had thought).
In the pic below, please see the red-colored ground symbol that I added to illustrate the goal. The goal is to use a typical gauge wire (16-18 ga.?) as a jumper, splice the jumper into the relay socket wire (green wire, socket 4), and send the other end of the jumper to chassis ground.
In the pic below, please see the red arrow that points to the relay that has the "B10 FANH Green" wire on it's #4 terminal.
By the way, here is the Ultimate Cooling Mod for Dogs
03-22-2012, 04:44 AM
#522
Solution for retaining clean cabin air flow?
I know i'm a few years late, but i'm barely getting to do a modified version of the UCM 
Would it be possible to run a duct from the cabin air inlet straight to the front grille? we don't need the mass air from the grille for the radiator; it's overkill. The huge grilles seen in most "performance" cars is there for cosmetics. The radiator doesn't need that much ram air on a N/A car; the UCM would be the better solution to keep the engine cool.
Would it be difficult to run an "intake" from the cabin air inlet to the front grille (or somewhere closer to the front of the car)? I haven't taken the cowl off yet so i'm not sure if there's anything directly in the way when going the mini UCM route, but this is definitely a viable option for the full UCM to get clean air into the cabin.
Would it be possible to run a duct from the cabin air inlet straight to the front grille? we don't need the mass air from the grille for the radiator; it's overkill. The huge grilles seen in most "performance" cars is there for cosmetics. The radiator doesn't need that much ram air on a N/A car; the UCM would be the better solution to keep the engine cool.
Would it be difficult to run an "intake" from the cabin air inlet to the front grille (or somewhere closer to the front of the car)? I haven't taken the cowl off yet so i'm not sure if there's anything directly in the way when going the mini UCM route, but this is definitely a viable option for the full UCM to get clean air into the cabin.
03-22-2012, 12:23 PM
#524
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 40
Posts: 30,994
Received 4,732 Likes
on
4,064 Posts
Well why run the duct ??? am i missing something....there are couple components you are missing here....
1> if the radiator doesnt need sooo much air cover the front like the Lexus hybrid or the Toyota Hybrid....or any hybrid....
2> The UCM will keep the bay cool and if you remove the crowl you will see the cabin air filter....below that is your HVAC which you will need if you are keeping your AC...
so if you want to run a hose from the grille to the cabin air filter it wont do any good....
finally you can just delete the AC and run this:
1> if the radiator doesnt need sooo much air cover the front like the Lexus hybrid or the Toyota Hybrid....or any hybrid....
2> The UCM will keep the bay cool and if you remove the crowl you will see the cabin air filter....below that is your HVAC which you will need if you are keeping your AC...
so if you want to run a hose from the grille to the cabin air filter it wont do any good....
finally you can just delete the AC and run this:
So here's a quick little project I did today and yesterday fill the pretty large hole caused by the removal of the climate control system.
I basically just filled over the hole with a few layers of fiber glass and connected a 3 inch duct pipe thing to it to direct air at the me while driving on the track. It's commonly seen on race cars and for the cost and weight involved, it's an easy thing to throw on in my mind.
Here's a nice example on an older Porsche cup car
Here's how the hole started out. both from the top and the bottom. It's a fairly large hole and creates a pretty nice breeze through the car at speed. I'm simply just harnessing and directing that breeze and the driver instead of just filling the cabin with it.
Here it is with the fiberglass over it. I'll admit its not my best work but it's so tight in there it was hard to make it perfect but it'll function without question.
Here's is the "almost" finished product. Just need to permanently attach the duct hose to the cover and we'll be good to go but you get the idea. Duct tape is only temporary.
haven't tested her out yet but I have no doubt it'll be better than nothing lol
Thoughts?
I basically just filled over the hole with a few layers of fiber glass and connected a 3 inch duct pipe thing to it to direct air at the me while driving on the track. It's commonly seen on race cars and for the cost and weight involved, it's an easy thing to throw on in my mind.
Here's a nice example on an older Porsche cup car
Here's how the hole started out. both from the top and the bottom. It's a fairly large hole and creates a pretty nice breeze through the car at speed. I'm simply just harnessing and directing that breeze and the driver instead of just filling the cabin with it.
Here it is with the fiberglass over it. I'll admit its not my best work but it's so tight in there it was hard to make it perfect but it'll function without question.
Here's is the "almost" finished product. Just need to permanently attach the duct hose to the cover and we'll be good to go but you get the idea. Duct tape is only temporary.
haven't tested her out yet but I have no doubt it'll be better than nothing lol
Thoughts?
03-22-2012, 02:01 PM
#525
I just covered my fresh air intake and put the hvac on recirculate. I used real metal duct tape to cover it which is holding up well and is about two years old. I miss the fresh air sometimes during the winter when it rains because of fogging, but other than that it hasn't changed the feel of the car. Once I got use to the look of the missing cowl, I rarely notice it and when I do it looks good to me. For those running FI or with serious heat issues the full UCM is recommended, since little screens can't provide the cooling that an unobstructed path will.
03-22-2012, 03:09 PM
#526
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 40
Posts: 30,994
Received 4,732 Likes
on
4,064 Posts
^^^ any reason why you covered up the cabin air filter area ???
i am running the UCM without the crowl and i still have the cabin air filter....it doesnt get wet at all....and it does rain in KS.....
i am running the UCM without the crowl and i still have the cabin air filter....it doesnt get wet at all....and it does rain in KS.....
03-22-2012, 03:29 PM
#527
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Speaking just for myself, I taped mine closed for the reassurance of keeping dry. Peace of mind.
BTW - I run with no hvac filter. Better flowrate and lighter weight. I know about clogging the evaporator fins with dust, but my car lives a sheltered life (no passengers, windows always closed, no cloth interior, etc) and I am willing to risk clogging the fins. This is that commitment to the Diet that I keep mentioning..... a willingness to take risk and make sacrifices.
Doesn't using the Defrost mode should solve this, even with the fresh air blocked off? I have never had a problem that Defrost couldn't solve... and I am in a high-humidity area year round.
BTW - I run with no hvac filter. Better flowrate and lighter weight. I know about clogging the evaporator fins with dust, but my car lives a sheltered life (no passengers, windows always closed, no cloth interior, etc) and I am willing to risk clogging the fins. This is that commitment to the Diet that I keep mentioning..... a willingness to take risk and make sacrifices.
Doesn't using the Defrost mode should solve this, even with the fresh air blocked off? I have never had a problem that Defrost couldn't solve... and I am in a high-humidity area year round.
03-22-2012, 03:48 PM
#528
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 40
Posts: 30,994
Received 4,732 Likes
on
4,064 Posts
^^^ I thought you had taped yours.....
but how heavy is the filter anyway
but how heavy is the filter anyway
03-22-2012, 03:55 PM
#529
Safety Car
Thread Starter
the air filter weight....
it is the thought of it that bugged me. I can live without it, so out it goes. I then feel better. Did I ever mention that this could turn into a disease or addiction?
03-22-2012, 04:06 PM
#530
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 40
Posts: 30,994
Received 4,732 Likes
on
4,064 Posts
^^^
03-22-2012, 06:13 PM
#531
Well why run the duct ??? am i missing something....there are couple components you are missing here....
1> if the radiator doesnt need sooo much air cover the front like the Lexus hybrid or the Toyota Hybrid....or any hybrid....
2> The UCM will keep the bay cool and if you remove the crowl you will see the cabin air filter....below that is your HVAC which you will need if you are keeping your AC...
so if you want to run a hose from the grille to the cabin air filter it wont do any good....
finally you can just delete the AC and run this:
1> if the radiator doesnt need sooo much air cover the front like the Lexus hybrid or the Toyota Hybrid....or any hybrid....
2> The UCM will keep the bay cool and if you remove the crowl you will see the cabin air filter....below that is your HVAC which you will need if you are keeping your AC...
so if you want to run a hose from the grille to the cabin air filter it wont do any good....
finally you can just delete the AC and run this:
Inaccurate i may need you to come down and just do it all for me, lol
03-22-2012, 06:33 PM
#532
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 40
Posts: 30,994
Received 4,732 Likes
on
4,064 Posts
When you take the crowl out for the UCM, the cabin filter is exposed....so you have 2 options....
1> tape it off and never use it again
2> do like Rex (villo) did....you tape the cabin air filter "duct" off leaving only a little room for a pipe which runs inside the cabin....and "blows" air in ya face LOL....
1> tape it off and never use it again
2> do like Rex (villo) did....you tape the cabin air filter "duct" off leaving only a little room for a pipe which runs inside the cabin....and "blows" air in ya face LOL....
05-21-2012, 10:53 PM
#536
Safety Car
Thread Starter
^ You did the Full Version UCM? Awesome.
My car is so loud (stripped interior, loud exhaust, etc) that I wouldn't be able to hear any wind noise. But if you do hear rushing wind, this would be a great thing in my opinion.
My car is so loud (stripped interior, loud exhaust, etc) that I wouldn't be able to hear any wind noise. But if you do hear rushing wind, this would be a great thing in my opinion.
05-22-2012, 03:02 AM
#537
^^^I've taken it all off (lol) but will be modifying the cowl and putting it back on. Since it's warm out here I just left everything off including the wipers and have some time to tactfully plan my attack on the cowl. I'm planning out a drill pattern for best air flow while keeping the fresh air in tact with an OEM-like look. I'll post some pictures of what I'd like to do hopefully on Thursday.
Has anyone tried heating up an exacto knife to cut through the inner plastic portion? I don't have a dremel but do have a few drills.
I got a little excited after hearing that gush of wind that sounded like a swoosh :gheylaugh: and thought "wow, is that from the windsheild". I was changing lanes and about to brake. I think I just caught a gust of wind perfectly. I've never heard that sound before in the TL and do listen to quite a bit of talk radio without loud music.
It wasn't very hot out today but I didn't hear the fan come on at all.
Has anyone tried heating up an exacto knife to cut through the inner plastic portion? I don't have a dremel but do have a few drills.
I got a little excited after hearing that gush of wind that sounded like a swoosh :gheylaugh: and thought "wow, is that from the windsheild". I was changing lanes and about to brake. I think I just caught a gust of wind perfectly. I've never heard that sound before in the TL and do listen to quite a bit of talk radio without loud music.
It wasn't very hot out today but I didn't hear the fan come on at all.
05-22-2012, 08:13 AM
#538
There's a whole other thread dedicated to the "baby" version of this mod...
Here's mine...recently resanded down the brown plastic and hit with plastidip...
I also opened up all the ports from the under side to route the air.
Here's mine...recently resanded down the brown plastic and hit with plastidip...
I also opened up all the ports from the under side to route the air.
05-22-2012, 10:45 AM
#539
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 40
Posts: 30,994
Received 4,732 Likes
on
4,064 Posts
did someone call my name ??? 
05-22-2012, 05:44 PM
#541
version. I'm planning to drill a bunch of holes on top so I'll be performing something similar. As for the fresh air intake, I'm gonna leave the last few sections of the passenger side closed and hope to direct air flow away from that area with the logic that air will exit towards the path of least resistance.
I figure if I get either the PCD or HFPC, there is an increased chance of more fumes in the engine bay that can make it over to the fresh air intake. My fresh air intake is always on.
haha, I was thinking how to describe the sound and your SN fit the bill perfectly.
The following users liked this post:
Inaccurate (05-22-2012)
05-22-2012, 07:40 PM
#543
I've had the full UCM on for a little over a month now, so I thought I would share my experiences.
Let me first say, BE CAREFUL WHEN REMOVING THE WINDSHIELD WIPERS. I cracked my beautiful windshield while removing mine, and I know i'm not the first person on here who has done this. This mod was NOT free for me Flood the sucker with WD-40 and keep flooding the area if it doesn't come off. Keep clear of your elbows and avoid putting any pressure on the windshield. That little sucker isn't as strong as I thought.
During the first two days without the cowl, my MID read 34mpg average
My usual mpg is around 28-29mpg. A few days later I reset the MID and it went back to reading 28-29mpg 
maybe the lower temps threw the ecu off? Anybody have input on this?
I must say though, the hood of my car is MUCH cooler after my commute; there is no doubt that heat is escaping the engine bay at a much faster rate than at stock.
I definitely have more wind noise now, but i'm not sure if that's due to the cowl removal or due to the new (oem) windshield. The noise isn't obnoxious, but noise from the windshield is definitely more pronounced.
I'm eventually planning to cut up the cowl for a less visually noticeable version of the cooling mod, but until I find a design that suits me i'll continue to rock the full cowl removal.
Finally, onto PERFORMANCE
Maybe I just got used to it? I honestly don't feel any performance gain and my car still feels sluggish from time to time lol. However, in theory, a cooler engine bay should allow for cooler MAF temp readings and better timing, no? I'll just keep the mod to feel better about myself haha
Let me first say, BE CAREFUL WHEN REMOVING THE WINDSHIELD WIPERS. I cracked my beautiful windshield while removing mine, and I know i'm not the first person on here who has done this. This mod was NOT free for me
Flood the sucker with WD-40 and keep flooding the area if it doesn't come off. Keep clear of your elbows and avoid putting any pressure on the windshield. That little sucker isn't as strong as I thought.During the first two days without the cowl, my MID read 34mpg average
My usual mpg is around 28-29mpg. A few days later I reset the MID and it went back to reading 28-29mpg maybe the lower temps threw the ecu off? Anybody have input on this?I must say though, the hood of my car is MUCH cooler after my commute; there is no doubt that heat is escaping the engine bay at a much faster rate than at stock.
I definitely have more wind noise now, but i'm not sure if that's due to the cowl removal or due to the new (oem) windshield. The noise isn't obnoxious, but noise from the windshield is definitely more pronounced.
I'm eventually planning to cut up the cowl for a less visually noticeable version of the cooling mod, but until I find a design that suits me i'll continue to rock the full cowl removal.
Finally, onto PERFORMANCE
Maybe I just got used to it? I honestly don't feel any performance gain and my car still feels sluggish from time to time lol. However, in theory, a cooler engine bay should allow for cooler MAF temp readings and better timing, no? I'll just keep the mod to feel better about myself haha
Last edited by lumyeinjun; 05-22-2012 at 07:42 PM.
05-22-2012, 09:48 PM
#545
Hmmm....honestly, it's all about the angle that you lift the wipers and lift directly straight up...it was ridiculous how hard it was until you get the right angle.
Sucks that you had to get your windshield replaced!
Sucks that you had to get your windshield replaced!
05-22-2012, 11:33 PM
#546
I agree with the angle on the wipers. What helped me was to see a picture of the tapered setting the wiper arm sat on below the threads. This allowed me to understand it required not just angle force but multi-angular force as well. Once I got the first one off, the second was a cinch. I'm sure a little spray of the PB blaster helped. Spray WD or PB and let it marinate for 5-10 minutes.
I sorta like the look of the fully removed cowl for now...it makes me feel like I actually know what I'm doing and am part of some secret elite club.
I sorta like the look of the fully removed cowl for now...it makes me feel like I actually know what I'm doing and am part of some secret elite club.
05-22-2012, 11:43 PM
#547
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 40
Posts: 30,994
Received 4,732 Likes
on
4,064 Posts
^^^ the angle is EVERYTHING !!!
i went from 3 spacers under the hood to 6....the height of the hood (hood pop) increased from 3mm to 6mm....and there i saw that the car was not sluggish anymore....Randy try that !!!
i went from 3 spacers under the hood to 6....the height of the hood (hood pop) increased from 3mm to 6mm....and there i saw that the car was not sluggish anymore....Randy try that !!!
The following users liked this post:
maharajamd (05-23-2012)
05-23-2012, 12:16 AM
#549
Safety Car
Thread Starter
For you [swoosh], I can see the spacers helping because you are running a bastardized (ineffective) version of the UCM. You said that your spacers are 2mm washers. If so, the Full Version UCM is equal to 35 spacers.
05-23-2012, 10:25 AM
#550
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 40
Posts: 30,994
Received 4,732 Likes
on
4,064 Posts
am not running the bastardized version....am running the 3/4 UCM
i dont really use my windshield washers in the summer but need them during the winter, ICE is my enemy....so i might keep the 3/4 ucm....
05-23-2012, 12:52 PM
#552
Race Director
iTrader: (1)
I'd love to see some actual tests with the different versions of the UCM. Like wind tunnel type tests...
There has to be a way to have the best of both worlds.
There has to be a way to have the best of both worlds.
05-23-2012, 01:19 PM
#554
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 40
Posts: 30,994
Received 4,732 Likes
on
4,064 Posts
i tested it at the wand wash
got the hood angle to a point where:
1> No water will enter the cabin air filter....that area remains dry
2> the angle makes the car a little more aerodynamic "in my opinion" the water was getting on the windshield a lot more easier at a higher hood pop than it was at stock height....
again am not expert, my test are no genius test....am just a fool with a high power water wand
The following 3 users liked this post by vill0169:
05-24-2012, 05:21 PM
#556
I left the WD-40 on there for 15 minutes and still couldn't get it off! But magically after I cracked the windshield, wiper arm #1 came loose and I realized how to easily take the second arm off Wind tunnel testing costs thousands of dollars!!!Oh and I forgot to add:
I don't "smell" anything different with the UCM even when i'm receiving fresh air
This doesn't mean that i'm not breathing in toxic air though haha. I hear that lead acid batteries need ventilation because they give off something (fumes? radiation?) harmful to humans; better get my braille battery soon for the sake of my health!
edit: gluck, justin!
Last edited by lumyeinjun; 05-24-2012 at 05:24 PM.
05-24-2012, 07:50 PM
#558
Yeah I'm due for a new battery soon; still on the original OEM battery that came with my car when I purchased it in 2008 haha I'd better replace it soon!
I think a AGM VRLA battery like the Braille B2317 "no-weight" battery should be fine, yes? It still has some volatile gas, but not as much as a flooded lead-acid battery. I highly recommend anybody running the UCM who hasn't blocked off the cabin air inlet to run a battery other than flooded lead-acid (i.e. dry cell, AGM, lithium-ion). I can't explain the science behind it because honestly I don't really understand it, but just to be safe, you know?
It seems like the best (compromise between lightest weight, reliability and value for the money) choice for me since my type-s is my daily driver and i'm located in sunny Southern California. I don't have the guts or funds to go with a battery as small as inAccurate's battery (don't want to replace every two years either).
I have heard that some of the Braille batteries have a tendency to die on our cars though, but i'm not sure which battery it was Can't seem to find the thread anymore either. Anybody know? Experience on lightweight batteries dying on anybody in less than two years?
I'd better replace it soon!I think a AGM VRLA battery like the Braille B2317 "no-weight" battery should be fine, yes? It still has some volatile gas, but not as much as a flooded lead-acid battery. I highly recommend anybody running the UCM who hasn't blocked off the cabin air inlet to run a battery other than flooded lead-acid (i.e. dry cell, AGM, lithium-ion). I can't explain the science behind it because honestly I don't really understand it, but just to be safe, you know?
It seems like the best (compromise between lightest weight, reliability and value for the money) choice for me since my type-s is my daily driver and i'm located in sunny Southern California. I don't have the guts or funds to go with a battery as small as inAccurate's battery (don't want to replace every two years either).
I have heard that some of the Braille batteries have a tendency to die on our cars though, but i'm not sure which battery it was
Can't seem to find the thread anymore either. Anybody know? Experience on lightweight batteries dying on anybody in less than two years?
Last edited by lumyeinjun; 05-24-2012 at 07:52 PM.
05-24-2012, 08:18 PM
#559
Three Wheelin'
Light weight batteries haven't really been anything ive looked into. But, ive always needed a battery with a good RC lol. I often keep the radio playing for long periods while working on the car.
As far as problems with the UCM and battery up front....well, mine's a dry cell in the trunk
As far as problems with the UCM and battery up front....well, mine's a dry cell in the trunk