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Just curious, were you planning to stick the secondary O2 sensors in defoulers somewhere?
I only see the primary O2 sensor bungs
Looks nice though!
Thank's
We will make a converter with the secondary sensors on the down pipe where the stock 3rd cat was with v band flanges so we can bolt it in and pass emission testing every other year then remove it after we get the registration done and disable it with flashpro like screaminz28 said (BECAUSE THIS IS FOR OFF ROAD USE ONLY AND WE WOULD NEVER BRAKE THE LAW) WE ARE JUST TRYING TO GET BETTER GAS MILAGE
just about done with everything now.
do to all the modifying we did to the car (moving/extending wires, relocating valves and plugs, adding a vacuum box, all that good stuff...)
we decided to start her up just to make sure everything is all good. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NyhY...ature=youtu.be
nothing exploded and/or burst into flames so im taking that as a good sign
Knowing how expensive that Titanium wrap can be so I too feel the pain brother.
Install looking good thus far....and so are all the Red Bulls.
thank you. luckily we were able to get it all done with one 100 ft roll, a bigger pain in the ass than i expected. lol. i finished up the manifold just in time to get kicked out of my dads shop for distracting everyone with it.
the down pipe we wrapped at home.
dont really have much more to do.
she is more or less ready to tune.
welp she went out on her maiden voyage today, just to the gas station.
had to stay out of boost what with it not being tuned yet. but oh god was i tempted.
That looks awesome man great workmanship this is mechanically the finest this is exactly what I would love to do to my car. Can you give me a ball park figure of your total cost. just so I can have an idea.
Not sure if you're going to like using those restrictive mufflers.
Did you mention what boost levels you're shooting for?
While I am waiting for my heads to come back I started working on the fuel system. What did you end up doing? Did u install a return system or keeping it single sided?
I'm running straight exhaust all the way back and actually doesn't sound bad at all...especially under wot boost. Not as loud as most would think because the turbo actually deadens the noise level like a muffler. Your setup will sound good as well once boost is being generated.
Will this OBX fuel rail fit a J35a8 http://www.ebay.com/itm/OBX-Aluminum-Hi-Flow-Fuel-Injection-Rail-98-02-Honda-Accord-V6-3-0L-Acura-TL-CL-/311008738069?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AHonda&hash=item486990bb15&vxp=mtr
Not without modifying the mounting brackets holes on the rails themselves. Additionally, you will need to find alternate upper injector o-rings so they seal properly. Other than that, yes, they work fine.
Thank's yungone we just ordered it, to good of a deal to pass up and OBX is no longer making them.
KN_TL we are going to try the stock mufflers and dead end fuel system for now, we did install a deatchworks DW300 fuel pump and 970cc injectors, we need to strike gold or something to buy more parts.
Tuning has begun, Vit sent the first map he drove it and sent the data log back
Werd.
If you can, let me know what he tunes the AFRs to under WOT boost. Vit was the first one to discover that there was a flaw in Flashpro during the cat warm up phase of the factory tables and how they would cause AFRs to be inconsistent until a set coolant temp was reached. Hondata followed up by adding a disable feature. Wish I knew about this when running into what appeared to be a 15lb threshold....
If you can, let me know what he tunes the AFRs to under WOT boost. Vit was the first one to discover that there was a flaw in Flashpro during the cat warm up phase of the factory tables and how they would cause AFRs to be inconsistent until a set coolant temp was reached. Hondata followed up by adding a disable feature. Wish I knew about this when running into what appeared to be a 15lb threshold....
I'd like to know if the knock control tables are zeroed out. If not, that's the FIRST thing I would do.
I don't think he uses the knock control isn't it to slow to do anything worthwhile ?
I don't know crap about tuning I'm into fabrication stuff
Exactly why it should be zeroed out completely. The TL (and TSX I think) have a knock control method that is not made to detect instant knock, but is more of an octane determiner. The knock control tables should be zeroed out and all timing should be set by the timing maps. Without doing that, I think around 8 degrees of timing can be ADDED by the knock control tables. If the car is tuned properly on the fuel that is going to be used, ideally you wouldn't have a range of 8 degrees, since you would tune it to max power without detonation, and maybe back it down a degree or two. An extra 8 degrees on top of that would not be good.
Exactly why it should be zeroed out completely. The TL (and TSX I think) have a knock control method that is not made to detect instant knock, but is more of an octane determiner. The knock control tables should be zeroed out and all timing should be set by the timing maps. Without doing that, I think around 8 degrees of timing can be ADDED by the knock control tables. If the car is tuned properly on the fuel that is going to be used, ideally you wouldn't have a range of 8 degrees, since you would tune it to max power without detonation, and maybe back it down a degree or two. An extra 8 degrees on top of that would not be good.
That is very interesting. It might explain why my tuner was seeing some detonation at 11 degrees of timing and ended up setting my tune to 7 degrees. I'll have to ask him about it and maybe get it thrown back on the dyno.
That is very interesting. It might explain why my tuner was seeing some detonation at 11 degrees of timing and ended up setting my tune to 7 degrees. I'll have to ask him about it and maybe get it thrown back on the dyno.
Wow that is LOOOW. How much boost, 16 psi or more? Definitely have them zero out all the knock control tables and then tune the ignition map. You could be running close to 15 degrees or more total timing, even when the high cam map says 7.
Let me go on record that zeroing out the "Knock Ignition Limit" and "Knock retard" tables will prevent unintended ignition advance from occurring. Once it has been tuned safely, then as a 'method of last resort' you could add some knock retard back in, but that likely won't save a motor in the case of big problems.
I'll go on record saying that a knock control mechanism is your best friend. I know you have the traction control which is beneficial, but I'd also suggest a J&S safeguard and more important.
Wow that is LOOOW. How much boost, 16 psi or more? Definitely have them zero out all the knock control tables and then tune the ignition map. You could be running close to 15 degrees or more total timing, even when the high cam map says 7.
Yeah, the tuner was very surprised at the timing. I'll make sure to talk to him about the knock control advance happening.
WE ARE JUST TRYING TO GET BETTER GAS MILAGE
Can you give me a ball park figure of your total cost. just so I can have an idea.
