TL Running Haltech PS2000 With Boomslang Harness: Far Fetched?
TL Running Haltech PS2000 With Boomslang Harness: Far Fetched?
Title pretty much says it all - I know its ridiculously expensive, and somewhat silly, but if one had an opportunity to get a Haltech Platinum Sport 2000 at a steal of a price, could this could be the potential be all end all tuning solution for the TL vs the AEM F/IC or the MS3? Or would the same open loop/closed loop issues that the F/IC users have with the TL surface as well?
Would love some insight as I've been trying to make a good long term plan with my TL and this is something that popped up when I was looking through the harnesses that Boomslang offers.
Would love some insight as I've been trying to make a good long term plan with my TL and this is something that popped up when I was looking through the harnesses that Boomslang offers.
2005 5AT bro 
EDIT: I should add I'm also well aware of the limitations of the transmission, how its useless and I should have bought a 6MT etc etc. All this being said, indulge me - Would the Haltech be a valid all in one solution?
EDIT: I should add I'm also well aware of the limitations of the transmission, how its useless and I should have bought a 6MT etc etc. All this being said, indulge me - Would the Haltech be a valid all in one solution?
It should work - Check out this thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/perform...00-whp-901774/
Tony used a Halltech Platinum Sport 2000 on that build. He did convert to a cable throttle body on it - not sure if that was intentional for a reason, or due to compatibility with the Halltech.
I'm sure Tony could help with the direction you're going.
Edit: Furthter in the thread Tony said this:
"The Haltech was wired in parallel with the stock ECU, so the stock ECU is still there for all the other functions. The VSA does not work anymore, although at one point in the earlier stages, I did manage to get working by feeding the stock ECU with a part throttle signal constantly on both TPS and motor position. I also had to keep the motor plugged in as a dummy and place it in the corner, and eventually, we removed it to keep the engine bay tidy as VSA was no longer wanted.
It was very similar to putting a standalone in any of the newer cars, like a Lexus IS300 or other variants which has DBW from the factory."
https://acurazine.com/forums/perform...00-whp-901774/
Tony used a Halltech Platinum Sport 2000 on that build. He did convert to a cable throttle body on it - not sure if that was intentional for a reason, or due to compatibility with the Halltech.
I'm sure Tony could help with the direction you're going.
Edit: Furthter in the thread Tony said this:
"The Haltech was wired in parallel with the stock ECU, so the stock ECU is still there for all the other functions. The VSA does not work anymore, although at one point in the earlier stages, I did manage to get working by feeding the stock ECU with a part throttle signal constantly on both TPS and motor position. I also had to keep the motor plugged in as a dummy and place it in the corner, and eventually, we removed it to keep the engine bay tidy as VSA was no longer wanted.
It was very similar to putting a standalone in any of the newer cars, like a Lexus IS300 or other variants which has DBW from the factory."
Last edited by screaminz28; Feb 12, 2015 at 05:42 PM. Reason: added Tonys info
Fantastic - Pretty much what I was looking for. My future goal after full bolt on is probably going to be built bottom end and FI, and I don't intend to go for anything crazy with the AT being what it is, probably just SC with meth.
That being said since Hondata and the AEM F/IC seem to be somewhat iffy, I want to make sure that whatever I do end up going with will be tuned correctly and for reliability, so the Haltech unit seems to be a better all around unit, even with the extra cost.
That being said since Hondata and the AEM F/IC seem to be somewhat iffy, I want to make sure that whatever I do end up going with will be tuned correctly and for reliability, so the Haltech unit seems to be a better all around unit, even with the extra cost.
Fantastic - Pretty much what I was looking for. My future goal after full bolt on is probably going to be built bottom end and FI, and I don't intend to go for anything crazy with the AT being what it is, probably just SC with meth.
That being said since Hondata and the AEM F/IC seem to be somewhat iffy, I want to make sure that whatever I do end up going with will be tuned correctly and for reliability, so the Haltech unit seems to be a better all around unit, even with the extra cost.
That being said since Hondata and the AEM F/IC seem to be somewhat iffy, I want to make sure that whatever I do end up going with will be tuned correctly and for reliability, so the Haltech unit seems to be a better all around unit, even with the extra cost.
Considering the lack of tuning support for the MS3, especially locally, it makes me nervous, and harness fab for the AT etc will drive the cost up, especially since I'm not all that partial to sitting down to try and sort the wiring myself. I mean, if any MS3 users with AT cars want to chime in, I'd love to hear it.
As for the F/IC, it seems to be very hit and miss in terms of what I've read on the 'Zine. Mostly the continuing issues of open loop / closed loop tuning. If someone's found a solution for that and I haven't found it on here, I'd love to hear that as well.
I mean, all of this is hypothetical at the moment - I'm just at the stage where my bolt-ons are going to be present and then its going to be a good few months before I'm able to jump on a SC, as much as I'd love to grab Noobers in the BM, but I do want to start thinking about the tuning solution as it seems to be the key to actually not blowing up the powderkeg that is a sc'd or turbo'd J32
EDIT: I believe the Platinum Sport 2000 actually has its own DBW, so in theory I'd imagine a cable throttle conversion would be unnecessary - Furthermore the fact that Boomslang makes a harness for it already makes me a little more confident in that respect - then again...
As for the F/IC, it seems to be very hit and miss in terms of what I've read on the 'Zine. Mostly the continuing issues of open loop / closed loop tuning. If someone's found a solution for that and I haven't found it on here, I'd love to hear that as well.
I mean, all of this is hypothetical at the moment - I'm just at the stage where my bolt-ons are going to be present and then its going to be a good few months before I'm able to jump on a SC, as much as I'd love to grab Noobers in the BM, but I do want to start thinking about the tuning solution as it seems to be the key to actually not blowing up the powderkeg that is a sc'd or turbo'd J32

EDIT: I believe the Platinum Sport 2000 actually has its own DBW, so in theory I'd imagine a cable throttle conversion would be unnecessary - Furthermore the fact that Boomslang makes a harness for it already makes me a little more confident in that respect - then again...
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I think with regards to the TL, you'd have MUCH better luck using the MS3 in terms of support. There's at leas a few people here that have or have had it. Most were 6MT users that switched to a Hondata just for simplicity's sake.
I saw a guy selling one in the BM a while back for $350 or so with an AT harness. I almost snagged it just to have a standalone, but I didn't feel like repinning a harness.
I'm still tempted to do it and based on the number of grenaded motors with Hondatas, I'm starting to be REAL tempted because I'm just not convinced Hondata has the TL ecu fully worked out.
If I had my druthers, I wish TurboXs still made the UTEC and it could be used. I think that was a great system. Use the OEM stuff for closed loop and switch to map based standalone for open loop.
Granted, I haven't ever used a Halltech so I could be missing out.
I saw a guy selling one in the BM a while back for $350 or so with an AT harness. I almost snagged it just to have a standalone, but I didn't feel like repinning a harness.
I'm still tempted to do it and based on the number of grenaded motors with Hondatas, I'm starting to be REAL tempted because I'm just not convinced Hondata has the TL ecu fully worked out.
If I had my druthers, I wish TurboXs still made the UTEC and it could be used. I think that was a great system. Use the OEM stuff for closed loop and switch to map based standalone for open loop.
Granted, I haven't ever used a Halltech so I could be missing out.
^ I know Sonnick, you're not far wrong man, but considering my 5AT only had 52000 miles on it when I bought it in November, and I bought it for 13800$ (Canadian) taxes, registration, plates and everything included in fantastic condition, I think I still made the right choice.
I'll be perfectly happy if I manage to get all my bolt ons, a cam swap from the RL and never even get to a tune, but I plan to keep the car for a while and I'd love to see how far I can push it
The closest 6MT near me in terms of mileage would have been over 120 thousand miles. That was definitely outside of the range I was looking at.
I'll be perfectly happy if I manage to get all my bolt ons, a cam swap from the RL and never even get to a tune, but I plan to keep the car for a while and I'd love to see how far I can push it

The closest 6MT near me in terms of mileage would have been over 120 thousand miles. That was definitely outside of the range I was looking at.
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