trojanman10984

iTrader: (1)

i averaged mine out and i am getting a little under 27mpg...pretty easing going driving wise and a few spirited runs....i would say 65% interstate and 35% local driving

RonJonTL757

27mpg...is that what ur mid says?

libert69

iTrader: (7)

My MID says I averaged around 36mpg for about 500 miles LOL. Pre-turbo on a weekly basis, I was lucky if I saw 23mpg to a tank.

After crunching the numbers, Im getting about 30-40 miles less per tank post-turbo. I dont really beat on the car either. Some days I dont even seen any boost

Souljah

Post blower- my MID is stating 27 MPG.

Off topic...
Fuck Libert, I want your car! Does it have Navi and Black interior!?
If so... Can I Hazz?

libert69

iTrader: (7)

You can have it if you can catch me LOL

AckTL05

iTrader: (18)

Throw on that HBP

c2pid

iTrader: (12)

libert: how are you tunning the turbo? fi/c or emanage or something else? just wondering how you're managing the closed loop.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

Fic. All the turbo guys are using the fic

unfortunately we are not managing closed loop functions. I know Bmeyer is working on a unit to piggyback with the fic to adjust some of the closed loop functions. I heard someone say nva-av6 is working on something also

c2pid

iTrader: (12)

yes paul is working on that additional piggyback; i've been waiting patiently. didn't know bmeyer was working on one as well. when i was running the fic without the ability to control the closed loop functions, the car would drive fine for awhile, but goes into limp mode. back then i didn't have the scanner to erase the code, so a flat bed had to be called. the same thing happened a few weeks later, so i got fed up and disconnected the fic and ran the acm. not the greatest thing, but at least the car doesn't go into limp mode and stall. just have to keep the 'spirited' drives to a minimum

Inaccurate

I am unfamiliar with this and I am curious.

1) It can't be driven at all? Not even 35 mph?

2) Could a person just pop the hood, disconnect the battery for a quick ecu reset. Then, drive away normally?

c2pid

iTrader: (12)

1) negative. the engine was choking and jerking hard, and eventaually stalls. it just happened out of the blue...it ran fine for the first 1/2 hour in stop & go traffic, until i got to a light. it was freaky cuz i had to no idea on what was going on. it took a few tries to start it again, but it was misfiring like crazy. so i just pulled over and turned it off.

2) i would assume that would work. but for the people that installed the s/c as instructed by the manual, the battery is located right below the s/c. unless the person has girly hands, good luck trying to get down there with a handtool and disconnect the battery. that's why relocating the battery to the trunk is a smart idea...of course, hind sight is 20/20

now i got a scanner sitting the trunk, but i am just running the acm without the knock sensor wire. it runs really good (touch wood) while in closed loop. during the 'spirited' drives, it behaves just like everyone else without the fic (hence no tune)...running rich, surge..etc. but over 90% of my driving is in closed loop...so running without the fic doesn't bother me that much. that's why i said 'i am waiting patiently'

Souljah

It happened to me on the highway. Pretty scary stuff.
I just thought it was a bad tune at first.

c2pid

iTrader: (12)

^^ yea...it was freaky. a lot of bystanders gave the 'wtf' look

now i got the fic, modified harness, and the rsx-s injectors sitting there doing f-all. hopefully this closed-loop solution comes out soon, otherwise i have this thing sitting in the engine for show, but 'no go'. 110% poser

04accordcpe

iTrader: (3)

are you sure its the FI/c causing it to go into limp mode? did you make sure the map sensor wires that were spliced for the ACM were tight? i know i had a problem, when the quick dissconnects that i installed when i ran the ACM for a brief time, while the harness was getting repaired werent making good contact...

ive been running successfully tuned with the FI/c with ZERO issues going on over a year now. the ONLY trouble i have is a stumble from closed to open loop between 1/2-3/4 throttle (just like the ACM) but cruising speeds and WOT is absolutley perfect

bmeyer

iTrader: (3)

Did you ever check your fault codes?

I had a freak issue once while cruising down the freeway and it felt like the accelerator pedal came completely unhooked. All the warning lights came on and I had maybe 2% throttle control. I was lucky that I could idle it into a Home Depot to pick up some huge zip-ties to wire the S/C bypass valve open and completely remove the F/IC.

The code it threw was something like throttle position sensor malfunction. I can't remember exactly.

I remember it was abnormally hot that day (~100+). I'm guessing the F/IC either got too hot, or a plug came unhooked just enough to cause it.

c2pid

iTrader: (12)

well...i remembered the tuner did mention about he was not able to control the closed loop with the fic, and he said the car will eventually go into limp mode. during the tune, he spoke to paul twice and confirmed that. of course back then i was too excited to keep all that in my head. within 3 weeks i encountered that stalling issue. since i didn't know what was going on, the car was flat bedded back to the dealership. once they cleared the code, the car ran fine. within 2 weeks the same thing happened again, and the tuner just told me to take out the fic. since the fic was going out, i also put back the stock injectors. the car ran fine since then. currently the a/f is between 13.5-15.5 during cruise and accelerating (not wot).

as for the sensor wire, i also used quick connects. i made sure everything was crimped down, and verified the connection with the continuity test.

i wished i took down the codes. maybe i was too busy cursing about having a big blower...nothing but show i just read your other thread about the the closed loop solution...good job. i'll be waiting patiently

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

For the SC guys who buried their battery, I think you can pop the top off the under hood fuse box and disconnect the front lead which comes from the battery. The other end from the battery goes to the starter and I don't think it goes anywhere else.

It'll only need a philips screwdriver.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

If I remember correctly the front post on my set up was the positive side, if you van keep the tool from contacting any metal. Look at the ECU fuse or buy a cheap scanner. Mine was $85 and data logs. If you get a scanner that uses a computer it takes alot of the cost out of the picture. Summit should also have some cheap scanners, Costco was selling one for $30 it might be in the online store.

RonJonTL757

Howz everyone doing? Just thought Id update on this thread as it seems to be one of the many good SC'd threads out there.

Ok im about 14K miles post blower and I must say it still runs very well. I do have a problem though Looks like for the 2nd time oil is seeping out of the EGR cam seal (where the support bracket attaches too. I swear this thing is a PITA and it is getting worse (leaking oil) now because there is oil everwhere and its burning off and it stinks and smoke tends to show from my headlight at night.

Unfortunatly this is my daily driver and I cannot pull the blower till Saturday morning but just looking under there im very scared to think it might be something other than this damn seal. Ill post pics then.

Anyone have issues with this before? I mean its just a mount bracket right?... so i dont suppose i can throw the factor seal cap in and not support that section? I dont think it would be a good idea

Souljah

I can't say that I have.
Bump!?

Any OGs out there?

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

Probably just pinched the o-ring... NBD.

H23Accord

iTrader: (8)

THREAD REVIVAL!

I followed this thread so figured I would post this here as well since I started a thread in the problems and fixes section. I figured I would get more answers here.

The linky:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/supercharged-but-starting-problems-caused-869089/

Cliffs:
Recently S/C. Car turns over but doesn't always catch and start as quick as it did when pre S/C. New battery. New Plugs.

Anyone else have this issue when they were S/C?

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

I don't think the car took any long to start when I had my SC. The TL in general takes longer to start than most cars I have had.

TLove It!

iTrader: (1)

Do you have the fic? My car started to have the problem you're talking about after the fic was installed.

04socalTL

iTrader: (1)

mine takes a bit longer to start ( and i have the FIC)
battery is also located in the trunk

H23Accord

iTrader: (8)

Mnie always started after 3 turnovers. Cha cha cha VROOM! Everytime without fail.

Are you speaking in reference to the ACM unit that comes with the the comptech S/C? Yes I am using the ACM. Did you ever solve the issue?

TLove It!

iTrader: (1)

Are you speaking in reference to the ACM unit that comes with the the comptech S/C? Yes I am using the ACM. Did you ever solve the issue?[/quote]

No not the ACM Comptech supplied, the FIC which is made by AEM. The FIC is a piggyback computer that will allow you to adjust fuel and ignition parameters.
And no, the taking longer to start issue is still there.

I hate cars

It's going to be something to do with the primative engine management that comes with the supercharger or the beginning of engine damage. What measures have you taken to ensure there's no knock? Knock gauge? Methanol injection?

If it's compression related, chances are it would have a misfire so you might be lucky there.

Make sure the bypass is open when it's cranking.

Make sure the fuel pump comes on to prime the system when you first turn the key on. When you first go to start it, turn the key to on, pause, start it. If it starts normally with the pause, it's probably a regulator assuming it runs normal at full throttle.

I agree with the others, go back to stock parameters, see how it starts, stay away from boost.

AckTL05

iTrader: (18)

I had the same thing when adding the FIC. I believe and was told its because the piggy back now has to "talk to" the stock computer and takes a second to pump fuel and turn over.

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

Hi guys, I need some experts to chime in.

I don't have the ACM for my supercharger, I do have the AEM FIC with pnp harness. Is there anywhere to run the car without the ACM and get it tuned?

2nd off, If I decide to crush the fuel pressure regulator and use the AEM will it still be ok?

For those in NJ, who can do the programing, and what's exactly is needed to program an AEM?

handsom-hustla

iTrader: (3)

you dont need the acm if your running the fic.
dont crush the fpr if u can get rdx injectors.
talk to bruce(acktl05) he may be able to install it for you.
GL

pandan

hey guys i just got the acm from ct engineering because i had aem fic with supercharger but the tuning shop didn't know how to tune it. so ct sent acm unit. does it need to be tuned or i can just hook it up and drive off with no problems.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

It just needs to be hooked up, no tuning required.

H23Accord

iTrader: (8)

Not sure if it was ACM related, but problem fixed by pulling fuse 7 out and then placing it back again. It seemed to reset something. Car starts normal again with no issues.

Here's the thread again for reference and maybe more detail...
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...2#post14109272

H23Accord

iTrader: (8)

Do any of you guys have any stock rsx type S 310cc injectors you don't need? I am in need of 6 at the moment and I know some of you guys upgraded to them and figured you might have some extras. The WTB thread is already up as well but doesn't get much love...

sunny201

I didn't want to start a whole new thread so I figured I'd revive this one since it has the knowledgeable people to help me out. I will be doing my S/C install tomorrow and needed a little advice.

So I spent the past couple weeks, maybe even month, reading thru this whole thread to get my understanding of the S/C down. Everybody always says that you shouldn't boost if you've never done it before, but I have to start somewhere right? lol. Well I've done my research via this thread and many other threads I've read regarding FI.

My setup will be (Base 3.2 Auto) CTSC (used kit that I bought), Hondata FlashPro, RV6 V3 PCDs and j-pipe, Greddy catback, custom CAI, A/F ratio and boost gauges, and that's about it for right now.

By the end of April I should have the 3x3 flush of Redline Type F ATF completed. In mid May I will add a knock monitor and RDX injectors. In June I will add a meth kit and trans cooler.

My Questions:
1. I should get 2 steps colder spark plugs right? Denso iK22? The kit did not include any and I would change them anyway since it is a used kit.
2. If using stock injectors, do I have to crush the FPR? I don't have the crush tool since I bought a used kit and I've read mixed opinions of it not being necessary.
3. Anything else you guys recommend adding or removing, or changing the order of in my time list for adding supporting mods?

Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

CBP08TL

iTrader: (2)

I am not s/c'ed but from research...

-you must upgrade your plugs (two step colder) - i.e. NGK Iridiums BKR8EIX
-yes, but don't have to crush your FPR if you upgrade your injectors and/or upgrade fuel pump.

i would consider installing the tranny cooler before since the s/c will be in the way.

btw - who is doing the install and tuning your flashpro?

Goodluck, sounds like a fun build and you are well on your way with all the necessary material.

here is a more recent s/c build with all your answers:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/2012-supercharger-jr-ecu-build-841336/

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

Sup bro! Enjoy it, while you can before temps get very hot outside. I will say it based installing the kit (I had to remove the kit and then reinstall it due to the warranty claim), it's a pretty straight forward install. Under hood temps are going to be pretty hot and I mean hot. Highly suggest you install a CAI and DON'T CONNECT the coolant lines back to the TB.

If your pushing more air you need more fuel, by crushing the regulator your going to have 10 PSI more fuel. If your installing this kit, you will need to AT LEAST crush the regulator. It won't hurt anything when you do injector upgrades. If you looking for long term you need to monitor knock and at least venture to meth kit. You will need to figure out what to do with the temps under the hood. That entire engine bay will be hot, the more you whine the hotter it gets.

I wouldn't use the old plugs unless they have very low miles. Usually from what I've been told they last approx 25K. I could be wrong. Exhaust mods are usually recommended to free up the flow. I have the ATLP J-pipe and comptech catback didn't feel the need to upgrade to precat deletes.

Keep in mind, like I said a million times, this was built and tested on a STOCK TL. Yes, the management system isn't the best but luckily now 07-08 have the flash pro (I believe the 06 as well) which will be better than the ACM. There are 2 versions to the ACM. I have the updated version that comptech did their very best to correct the surge. I will say over the winter season I surged 2-5x in the month and it being extremely minor. Now with temps rising, I may surge 2x every drive but still fairly minor.

The best way to go about this in the long term of things is full exhaust work, meth kit, tune, injectors and some other form to keep that intake manifold cooler. Like I said, this kit was put and tested for a STOCK CAR. Anything more than what you have is only a plus. Best of luck, enjoy it!

Marcelechka

G/L on the build

ziggyh22

iTrader: (3)

If your using FlashPro you dont have to Crush the FPR because you can control fuel trims with FlashPro and it will be adjusted while getting tuned. Just DONT boost past 0lbs while S/C'd and NOT tuned or Zip Tie the bypass valve open so boost will bleed out until you get it tuned Also with the FlashPro you dont have to run Colder Spark Plugs cause you can adjust timing to compensate for boosting I would recomend replacing the plugs with new ones and just go with factory spec. Pretty sure there will be other people that will say different then what i suggested but this info is from Doug the owner of Hondata himself. Good Luck!