Supercharger ACM Problem?
08-10-2008, 06:57 PM
#1
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Supercharger ACM Problem?
I have just installed my S/C kit 10 days ago. For the first week it was running awesome. Just last week I started getting a "hiccup" under acceleration in every gear around 3-5k rpm. A few days after the "hiccup" began I started throwing CEL's like crazy.
P0325 - circuit malfunction knock sensor bank 1
I had a feeling the ACM had a bad connection. I removed and reinstalled the ACM including the solder connections. The problem remains.
I did some further research and the ACM wires into connector B pin 6 at the ECU. That is the pin of the knock sensor on bank 1. I left the ACM installed but bypassed just that wire and returned the circuit to stock. The CEL's went away. I still have the "hiccup" and my TL feels like its running like shit. Anybody have anything like this?
P0325 - circuit malfunction knock sensor bank 1
I had a feeling the ACM had a bad connection. I removed and reinstalled the ACM including the solder connections. The problem remains.
I did some further research and the ACM wires into connector B pin 6 at the ECU. That is the pin of the knock sensor on bank 1. I left the ACM installed but bypassed just that wire and returned the circuit to stock. The CEL's went away. I still have the "hiccup" and my TL feels like its running like shit. Anybody have anything like this?
08-11-2008, 08:46 AM
#5
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Originally Posted by Kennedy
^ right... because you can just have that done at the local jiffy lube. 
Not that you haven't thought about it, but have you considered giving Nate at Comptech a call?
Not that you haven't thought about it, but have you considered giving Nate at Comptech a call?
the local bp is doing it now too
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08-11-2008, 08:43 PM
#8
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I talked to somebody at CT and they said the surging may caused by the fuel pressure mod incorrectly performed. I took it all back apart, rechecked every connection and fit the regulator into the special tool, it is pressed flush. I reinstalled everything and the problem remains. I may just drop by CT since they are semi-local. I have a feeling its a bad ACM.
What does the ACM control besides ignition timing and fuel delivery?
Will hondata, e-manage, or power fc work in place of the ACM?
What does the ACM control besides ignition timing and fuel delivery?
Will hondata, e-manage, or power fc work in place of the ACM?
08-12-2008, 10:07 PM
#10
Originally Posted by ussi
I had this problem, but it was fixed with a simple bypass.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=161012
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=161012
08-13-2008, 10:59 PM
#13
Team Anthracite
Originally Posted by Aznpersuasion
might be spark plugs/ or spark coils, best person to ask would be tom he helped me out alot when I installed my S/C
~Jason
~Jason
and also what is your gas mileage? MT or AT?
08-14-2008, 09:13 AM
#14
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Thread Starter
No, I am getting a surge, like as if fuel pressure drops off for a split second back to back to back, usually happens about 3 times in every gear around the same rpm.
As for my mileage, it went up considerably. I increased roughly 4-6 mpg city and 8-12 mpg highway. I drove it to HIN in Pomona last weekend and I was getting 32mpg at 80mph with the A/C on.
As for my mileage, it went up considerably. I increased roughly 4-6 mpg city and 8-12 mpg highway. I drove it to HIN in Pomona last weekend and I was getting 32mpg at 80mph with the A/C on.
08-16-2008, 02:28 AM
#15
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Originally Posted by tidus888
wait... are u getting no surge at all?
and also what is your gas mileage? MT or AT?
and also what is your gas mileage? MT or AT?
~Jason
08-17-2008, 03:15 AM
#17
Team Anthracite
Originally Posted by Aznpersuasion
I have auto, gas mileage on highway is 32, city 27-26 varys (I get on mine every now and than) haha
~Jason
~Jason
my gas mileage has been quite bad every since... any idea why?
08-17-2008, 02:25 PM
#18
Team Anthracite
Originally Posted by Aznpersuasion
On the Acm/Eci for B 24 pin slot 6 did you solder the white/orange wire to the green/red wire? my car had the supercharger on for 1yr, no problems.
~Jason
~Jason
08-17-2008, 06:41 PM
#20
Team Anthracite
Originally Posted by Kennedy
Define bad bad bad...?
My milage finally broke 30 last week, but that's ONLY on the highway.
In the city, and with all the running it up to 5K+, I'm bot even in the twenties. All depends on how you drive.
My milage finally broke 30 last week, but that's ONLY on the highway.
In the city, and with all the running it up to 5K+, I'm bot even in the twenties. All depends on how you drive.
08-17-2008, 09:24 PM
#21
Originally Posted by tidus888
i dunno.. not too heavy.. but city i am getting like 17MPG.... what should i look for?
On the highway, I'd expect 30s.
Your MID is also wrong now BTW, so don't pay attention to that. The ACM is dumping in more fuel than is being measured, so you'll have to calculate milage by the tank...
08-18-2008, 01:26 AM
#23
Team Anthracite
Originally Posted by Kennedy
17 in the city isn't unheard of... It's a heavy car.
On the highway, I'd expect 30s.
Your MID is also wrong now BTW, so don't pay attention to that. The ACM is dumping in more fuel than is being measured, so you'll have to calculate milage by the tank...
On the highway, I'd expect 30s.
Your MID is also wrong now BTW, so don't pay attention to that. The ACM is dumping in more fuel than is being measured, so you'll have to calculate milage by the tank...
Originally Posted by Excelerate
I don't have a S/Ced TL but I have two forced induction Honda's and I'm fortunate if I get 15-17 mpg around town; of course I like to floor it a lot but I would say that is common for city mileage.
kennedy, i am not using the MID (btw i am in Canada so its L/100km... hehehe) to check fuel consumption.. i do it by filling up a tank drive till empty light then fill it up again to calculate =)
08-18-2008, 02:00 AM
#24
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Originally Posted by Aznpersuasion
On the Acm/Eci for B 24 pin slot 6 did you solder the white/orange wire to the green/red wire? my car had the supercharger on for 1yr, no problems.
~Jason
~Jason
08-21-2008, 02:33 AM
#25
Dont waste your money, man. that wont fix it. the car surging is due to the ACM being a piece of crap. it's a "make-believe" way of tuning the ECU to compiment the supercharger. The surging is caused by the ECU mistaking the supercharger for a source of "knocking", thus setting off your knock-sensors and interrupting your throttle response. you need tuning. my car had moderate surging at first. I went and got hondata reflash; surge gone.
08-22-2008, 11:10 AM
#26
Team Owner
"Fuel pressure mod". Wow, we're back in the stone age of tuning. Why not use a real adjustable fuel pressure regulator with boost signal? They're $100. Crushing the stock fuel pressure regulator is unsafe and fuel pressures will be all over the place. They're not consistant.
I'll say it again, with some real tuning, there's a good 50 safe hp to be gained. Crushing the regulator is nuts. That's as nuts as when I was 17 and couldn't afford an adjustable regulator so I put a hose clamp on the fuel return line to raise pressure lol.
I'll say it again, with some real tuning, there's a good 50 safe hp to be gained. Crushing the regulator is nuts. That's as nuts as when I was 17 and couldn't afford an adjustable regulator so I put a hose clamp on the fuel return line to raise pressure lol.
08-22-2008, 03:53 PM
#29
I think optimizing the fuel system setup would reduce surging a little, but proper tunning will definately get rid of it. We just gotta have both for a smoother and safer ride.
Last edited by mrlunecy; 08-22-2008 at 03:56 PM.
08-22-2008, 04:13 PM
#30
Team Owner
^ X2. Anybody in the Supercharged Community have ANYTHING other that the "stone age FPR crusher" mod on their fuel setup??? As it is right now, I dont trust the comptech recommended setup; Even though both dynos I've done all map out my air/fuel ratio as "good", I just installed my autometer A/F gauge this week, and my ratio reads all over the place! it scares me....maybe I should just unplug it? hahaha.
I think optimizing the fuel system setup would reduce surging a little, but proper tunning will definately get rid of it. We just gotta have both for a smoother and safer ride.
I think optimizing the fuel system setup would reduce surging a little, but proper tunning will definately get rid of it. We just gotta have both for a smoother and safer ride.
During normal light driving the AF will be all over the place. It's supposed to crosscount from low to high and will do it several times a second. This is normal. Once you put it under load it will straighten out.
08-23-2008, 11:09 AM
#31
Thanks for the info. But the problem is, anytime I get heavy enough on the throttle to cause boost pressure to rise close to 0 psi or greater, A/F straightens out at around 10.0 and stays there the whole time until I lay off the throttle. I'm having a hard time believing that I could be runnning that lean, but what else can I go by? Maybe it's time for a another dyno to map out A/F.
Last edited by mrlunecy; 08-23-2008 at 11:12 AM.
08-23-2008, 04:10 PM
#32
Team Owner
Thanks for the info. But the problem is, anytime I get heavy enough on the throttle to cause boost pressure to rise close to 0 psi or greater, A/F straightens out at around 10.0 and stays there the whole time until I lay off the throttle. I'm having a hard time believing that I could be runnning that lean, but what else can I go by? Maybe it's time for a another dyno to map out A/F.
08-23-2008, 06:37 PM
#33
Have I been looking at this thing backwards? I know 14.7 is the ideal setting for gasoline, the widest range limits of the autometer is a low of 10.0 (which is rich?) and high of 20.0 (which is lean?). I though it was the other way around! I was wondering why it wasn't called an "fuel/air" gauge. hahaha
Now I feel less-dumb. Thanks for the knowledge, I Hate Cars! I feel better now. It makes sense now; I might be seeing this rich stubble cuz it happens everytime I press the gas enough to make boost jump up significantly. Yeah, the procats are already eating themselves up.
Sorry, don't mean to thread-jack, but it's kinda related to ACM/fuel issues.
08-23-2008, 09:08 PM
#34
Team Owner
Oh snap!!! Have I been looking at this thing backwards? I know 14.7 is the ideal setting for gasoline, the widest range limits of the autometer is a low of 10.0 (which is rich?) and high of 20.0 (which is lean?). I though it was the other way around! I was wondering why it wasn't called an "fuel/air" gauge. hahaha Now I feel less-dumb. Thanks for the knowledge, I Hate Cars! I feel better now. It makes sense now; I might be seeing this rich stubble cuz it happens everytime I press the gas enough to make boost jump up significantly. Yeah, the procats are already eating themselves up.
Sorry, don't mean to thread-jack, but it's kinda related to ACM/fuel issues.
Have I been looking at this thing backwards? I know 14.7 is the ideal setting for gasoline, the widest range limits of the autometer is a low of 10.0 (which is rich?) and high of 20.0 (which is lean?). I though it was the other way around! I was wondering why it wasn't called an "fuel/air" gauge. hahaha Now I feel less-dumb. Thanks for the knowledge, I Hate Cars! I feel better now. It makes sense now; I might be seeing this rich stubble cuz it happens everytime I press the gas enough to make boost jump up significantly. Yeah, the procats are already eating themselves up. Sorry, don't mean to thread-jack, but it's kinda related to ACM/fuel issues.
For a supercharged car, 12.5 is safe and you will make some power and not kill the cats too bad. 10.0 is just wasting gas lol. It wouldn't be a bad idea to smell the oil dipstick and make sure it doesn't smell like fuel.
FWIW, stoich is 14.7 and that's where you're supposed to get the most complete burn, especially for emissions. It's ok for a NA car at WOT but it's not a good idea for a boosted car.
08-30-2008, 01:59 PM
#35
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mrlunecy or anyone with info.
I am new to the TL world but not toAcura/Honda; I have a 04 TL 6speed. I'm currently stationed in Ramstein AB, Germany and could not find a Nitrous fill up station so my next option is S/C. I've read from this thread that the ACM supplied with CT is not very good and should be replaced with Hondata reflash. How much is the Hondata reflash and difference with HP? Checked Hondata website and didn't see reflash for TL's. I know it will be better but how much HP. Also, is it possible that the car is actually running lean for a moment setting off the knock sensor for those having the surge problems? Hope Hondata can make something tunable like their S series with boost. I have a Prelude and with the Greddy E-manage, I dyno'd at 250whp with a messy graph and replaced with Hondata S200 and got 280 whp with a smooth graph on the same boost. It's now at 562whp which is freakin usless in the street. 350whp is most I'll have for a FWD. Reflash vs actual dyno tune is night and day, but for now, I guess I or we'll have to live with a reflash.
I am new to the TL world but not toAcura/Honda; I have a 04 TL 6speed. I'm currently stationed in Ramstein AB, Germany and could not find a Nitrous fill up station so my next option is S/C. I've read from this thread that the ACM supplied with CT is not very good and should be replaced with Hondata reflash. How much is the Hondata reflash and difference with HP? Checked Hondata website and didn't see reflash for TL's. I know it will be better but how much HP. Also, is it possible that the car is actually running lean for a moment setting off the knock sensor for those having the surge problems? Hope Hondata can make something tunable like their S series with boost. I have a Prelude and with the Greddy E-manage, I dyno'd at 250whp with a messy graph and replaced with Hondata S200 and got 280 whp with a smooth graph on the same boost. It's now at 562whp which is freakin usless in the street. 350whp is most I'll have for a FWD. Reflash vs actual dyno tune is night and day, but for now, I guess I or we'll have to live with a reflash.
08-30-2008, 11:44 PM
#36
^ Hondata reflash is approx. $600. Unfortunetly, I did not dyno before reflash, only after. But I can say from driving before/after, the power transition felt a lot smoother through the powerband, surging was gone and it felt like I gained some definite tq hp numbers. Honestly, I wasn't too inpressed with gains I felt from initially installing the s/c, plus I installed procats at the same time (expected anywere from 70-80 WHP, (yeah I know they dont exactly add up)). my FPR wasn't crushed right, but when I got that fixed, I felt no improvement. when I reflashed...MAJOR IMPROVEMENT! Unfortunately, Hondata has their focus on other major projects, but the demand for tunning the J series engine just isn't there. All they have is the pre-release reflash for the 04-06 5AT/6MT TL and you must get it locally (SoCal, unless there's another place I dont know about). this is why they do not advertise it on their website. I highly doubt hondata will continue to work on the J engine, specially anything on the J35, but one can hope, eh!?
Now I am curious to see if anyone out there in the s/c community has dynoed and didn't reach comptech's advertised 60 WHP for the blower w/ just ACM? and if anyone has run lean intermitently on one of their pulls to see if it could possibly be linked with the surging? By seeing some of theses guy's numbers, it looks like they are picking up somewhere around 60whp with just the blower, specially 6MT guys. but IMO some added tunning would help smooth out the power/torque curves, improve fuel management and get rid of that annoying surging. But I think some guys claim to not have any surging. This might just be a case-by-case scenario.....
Everyone's input would be appreciated!
Last edited by mrlunecy; 08-30-2008 at 11:47 PM.
09-19-2008, 03:28 AM
#37
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Hey mrlunecy, Could you get me more information about local Hondata. I live in OC. Would I just email them? How exactly did you go about getting your reflash?
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