ughhh!!! i want my midpipes!!! lol

 

You are correct! I've seen all varying numbers at one point or another with each respective pulley.

I only questioned how many lbs since he mentioned he was running the hbp and the numbers were that low... I guess the slight displacement increase does make that much of a difference.... that's nuts!

 

The hbp created more boost faster. So it was going into full boost at a lower rpm which made a difference in usable power. The power is great, I got a steady 145 degree intake temp after 20 pulls and power numbers were always consistent. Now with some new parts on from atlp I have even bigger numbers

 

Thanks kingkong!

 

I am unaware of this max boost pulley. Is this new? Do you have a link to it?

 

There is no such thing of a max boost pulley for a tl.

 

I got videos. Fly bys takeoffs and inside views

 

 

 

 

 

Where is this intake air temp sensor located? 145F is on the low side for a small roots blower even at low boost without meth. If that is the actual temp of the charge air you can still see the benefits of additional cooling where the equivalent turbo setup is going to have 50F cooler air entering the engine. It's the difference in summer to winter power. This is not a bad thing, it means you have more power to be gained.

Monitoring knock?

 

It's ok Im at 310+hp now and no knock after 20 dyno pulls. The intake temps were the same and never end knocked. These two things were being watch closely for consistency for the jpipe shoot out.

 

FYI I've been driving with the hbp for a month and never had a problem. Finally tuned it and scored some big numbers and with people saying intake temps reach 200 degree is full of shit. I tried it, it is safe and fun.

 

Hmmm still got that 60% ct supercharger. Lol car sounds fun

 

What exhaust mods do we hear in the recent videos?

 

I do I need it gone

 

this still your full parts list plus the jpipe?

I live in CA as well, is it fully CARB compliant without 'knowing a guy'?

 

This is why I asked where the sensor is. And 200F is not out of the question when you put it out in the street if it's running 145 with the hood up where heat soak and low airflow come into play.

Are you actually monitoring knock or using your ears? Getting the car tuned is 1000% better than the cave man style tune the blower kit came with so it might last. Still though, it's too soon to call it good and safe, a month is not long enough. Look at how many times I've told people they were going to end up with a blown engine, they said I was full of it because it survived a few short dyno runs and passes on the street only to be rebuilding it 6 months later.

There are two problems. Knock and high charge temps are one large problem. If you're watching knock and it has none you should be good there. The second one and the one you can't get away from is the stock ring gap being too tight for extended periods under boost.

So basically watch the knock and use boost for quick point and shoot short duration runs with cool off time in between and it might last. Do a bunch of top end runs, even with no knock you will end up with a broken ring land.

Also, knowing the stock gap is a problem, my old recommendation of 100% meth is probably not the best for a stock engine. A mix will cool combustion temps better with the downside being hotter charge air temps and less power.

So is the air temp sensor on the intake manifold, throttle body, or somewhere else?

 

hmmm any thoughts on light weight rotors blades for the m62?

http://stiegemeier.com/services/lightweight-rotors/

maybe some PnP?

http://stiegemeier.com/honda-m-62/

 

I had to get mine made... check out S. FL Pulley; takes 3 to 4 weeks.

Terry is the owner; great guy & very knowledgeable... Call or email him with any questions.

South Florida Pulley
sfph@southfloridapulleyhq.com
(772)468-3585 o
http://www.southfloridapulleyhq.com/

 

Thoughts on this too:


http://stiegemeier.com/services/venom-coolers/


There was a description on this but the site has change and I cant seem to find it

 

^ ya i just looking into those. What part does it cool? I like the idea of cooling the charged air without having to use water/meth.

 

 

Nothing on my car is california approved with emissions. Everything is off-road.

 

If you leave the stock cats on the engine, the car will pass smog here in Cali. Most people run cat deletes but they can be swapped out for the stock items.

 

I am impressed by the lack of explanation of how this works from the Mgf.

 

Matt, don't waste your time.

 

There's a video on YouTube about the venom coolers. Basically a bulilt in water jacket.

 

Grab a water/meth kit and re-tune. Heat is a big problem with these blowers.

 

you can run HFPCs and still pass smog. just have to go to a place that doesn't check everything completely. i would say it's a 60/40 chance of a shop catching that they are aftermarket...plus go when they are super busy so they don't take their time investigating.

and have a CARB sticker on your intake, they almost never look it up and see that's it's for an accord.

 

 

That has got to be one of the biggest wastes of money I've seen. The supercharger temperature itself is a very small percentage of the total heat that is transferred into the charge air. Keeping the front gear/bearing section cool might have some benefit for the longevity of the blower itself but that's it. You're cooling something with extremely low internal surface area that even if you chilled it below freezing probably wouldn't show a measurable hp gain.

The point is to cool the air after compression. It's the compression of the air and the root's incredibly inefficient way of doing so that heats the air, not the temp of the blower itself. This is why an intercooler or meth is the only way to do it right. This is why a turbo delivers a cooler charge for a given psi even though the other the turbine is powered by exhuast and can be seen glowing red hot even after an easy run.

I might do this "mod" after I've exhausted every other means of cooling the air. Maybe the car runs 13.00000 on every run and I want to hit that 12.9999999 and there's nothing left to do, this mod might be worth it. On the other hand, if I were getting into boost a lot and driving the car hard such as in road racing and I wanted to get maximum life out of the blower, this makes more sense.

 

Lol. I'm done. Well, almost. If it blows I might be back to say I told you so but I'm not that mean.

 

 

Oh, you have it in you to be that mean!

Congrats on your new ride, btw...solid choice!

 

oh...and clear your PM Matt!

 

Yup I spoke to Terry and he actually made my high boost pulley. I was considering going even smaller. What size is your pulley?

 

Done.....

 

Currently running 3.275" on the alternator & 3.2" on the blower. It varies from 8 1/2 to 10 psi depending on the weather... Typically in the morning, It's a solid 10 psi; during the day when it's hot out, it's hit or miss within the threshold mentioned.

I went with the 3.2" pulley because I figured I was going to lose +/- 2psi due to the FMIC w/ piping... The meth kit is a major plus too (thanks Bruce & Liebert); initial spray at 4psi; full spray 8psi.

Been boosting for 2 years now... no issues.

Some may say the setup is somewhat overkill, but better safe than sorry.



Sorry, OP for jacking your thread.