Stock clutch limits?
Pressure plate is the bottleneck with stock setup. When it heats up, it will slip during quick shifting in high RPMs along with having to sometimes pump the clutch pedal to get it to "release". Has happened to countless members now.
Stock clutch isn't really meant for much other than stock and normal driving. Push it and you will soon ruin it. In the end, it all comes down to your driving style, proper/improper downshifting etc. A set of gripy tires on a hard launch, stock power will make it slip.
The guys are right about the PP being the fuse. Just not enough clamping power, despite the organic disc. It turned out to be the case with the Spec clutch that I had tried in the past. It was nothing more than a stock painted PP paired with e ceramic disc, but it failed and started slipping very soon. The ceramic disc pretty much fried both the PP and FW because the PP didn't have enough clamping power. So, its important to pair a grippy disc with the proper PP, not enough clamping force and slippage can damage both the PP and FW.
As far as the stock organic disc goes, once it slips, it fades. It doesn't take much. So even with a harder PP, the stock disc wouldn't do a lot of good when driven hard,, and in the process with will heat up the rest of the components and slippage is inevitable.
The stock clutch could hold 350 whp say, rolling in 1st gear 10 mph, winter tires...wheels will just spin. But it might slip when you're in 4th at 60 mph and just mash the accelerator. Point is, you can't truly attach a power holding number to it. There's just too many variables to the point of slippage. One of them being, with added power comes a more aggressive driving style, which in turn with blow the fuse even quicker. This is my opinion anyway.
The guys are right about the PP being the fuse. Just not enough clamping power, despite the organic disc. It turned out to be the case with the Spec clutch that I had tried in the past. It was nothing more than a stock painted PP paired with e ceramic disc, but it failed and started slipping very soon. The ceramic disc pretty much fried both the PP and FW because the PP didn't have enough clamping power. So, its important to pair a grippy disc with the proper PP, not enough clamping force and slippage can damage both the PP and FW.
As far as the stock organic disc goes, once it slips, it fades. It doesn't take much. So even with a harder PP, the stock disc wouldn't do a lot of good when driven hard,, and in the process with will heat up the rest of the components and slippage is inevitable.
The stock clutch could hold 350 whp say, rolling in 1st gear 10 mph, winter tires...wheels will just spin. But it might slip when you're in 4th at 60 mph and just mash the accelerator. Point is, you can't truly attach a power holding number to it. There's just too many variables to the point of slippage. One of them being, with added power comes a more aggressive driving style, which in turn with blow the fuse even quicker. This is my opinion anyway.
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Hey, whats up man.
TL is ok, nothing special. Has been sleeping for a while. Need to get some body work done and paint it, then maybe I may put the SC back on lol. Other than that, I rarely drive it, But might get back into it when and if i find the motivation
TL is ok, nothing special. Has been sleeping for a while. Need to get some body work done and paint it, then maybe I may put the SC back on lol. Other than that, I rarely drive it, But might get back into it when and if i find the motivation
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