Sneak Peak: Jpipe Back ???
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94 DC4 RS LSV/Turbo
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From: New York City | Stuck in Traffic
Sneak Peak: Jpipe Back ???
yea just a sneak peak for you guys to gaze at, got the racepipe last week and the cutout this week, I've got the electronic valve and electronic controller on order, the cutout was $52 on summitracing.com
Tig welded quality is pretty good, can't say the same for the gasket they sent rofl
Tig welded quality is pretty good, can't say the same for the gasket they sent rofl
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94 DC4 RS LSV/Turbo
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From: New York City | Stuck in Traffic
werd?
I havent really ordered the motor yet, lol I'd like to get it welded on there first
but I've seen there are a few, I am going to do a little research myself
I havent really ordered the motor yet, lol I'd like to get it welded on there first
but I've seen there are a few, I am going to do a little research myself
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94 DC4 RS LSV/Turbo
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From: New York City | Stuck in Traffic
I see where you found that the motor is failing, I think they found it was install error, haven't found any other places where they've said the qtp failed, did find the dmh failed which I was looking at because it opens very fast
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Jegs has some similar stuff too. You can find it cheaper if you don't get the ss. Just search exhaust cutout. They have a fairly inexpensive electronic motor too. I can't remember the name at the moment.
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From: New York City | Stuck in Traffic
good stuff, the race ready looks pretty good, and also found a nice dump pipe so I wont have to fab a 45 degree angle after the flap


I will look at the reviews guys have for race ready, I did find a few people complainig about the butterfly flap falling off hehehe


I will look at the reviews guys have for race ready, I did find a few people complainig about the butterfly flap falling off hehehe
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94 DC4 RS LSV/Turbo
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From: New York City | Stuck in Traffic
Nah my experience wit e-cutouts has been beautiful
I drove the car without a catback and it was wonderful thus why I figured its time for the tl to have it also
Besides my boys g35 sounds way to sexy with a manual e-cutout, but no way imma jack the car up to remove 3 bolts to be "race ready" (pun intended)
I'll have pics up along the way on this thread
I drove the car without a catback and it was wonderful thus why I figured its time for the tl to have it also
Besides my boys g35 sounds way to sexy with a manual e-cutout, but no way imma jack the car up to remove 3 bolts to be "race ready" (pun intended)
I'll have pics up along the way on this thread
You could tap the vtec wire coming from the ECU. The ECU sends a 12V signal to the vtec solenoid valve, This same 12v source could activate the dump valve. The dump valve would then automatically open/close as needed.
This is assuming that the dump valve is normally closed (without voltage). And this is assuming that the dump valve motor does not draw much amperage...if the motor draws too much amperage, a relay would need to be used.
Just sharing an idea (aka, speculation). Never done it myself (aka, caution is advised in following this advise).
This is assuming that the dump valve is normally closed (without voltage). And this is assuming that the dump valve motor does not draw much amperage...if the motor draws too much amperage, a relay would need to be used.
Just sharing an idea (aka, speculation). Never done it myself (aka, caution is advised in following this advise).
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94 DC4 RS LSV/Turbo
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From: New York City | Stuck in Traffic
u know I remember a guy on honda tech used a throttlebody from an ls1 for the flap, did something very similar, but honestly I will leave nitrous kit to do that instead
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From: New York City | Stuck in Traffic
Its from Richie V6, but according to the mods I am not allowed to tell you that, I am also not supposed to tell you what I paid for it
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From: New York City | Stuck in Traffic
exhaust cutout = no catback
with the cutout open most cars gain 10hp, since I am going to be using the race ready valve with the toggle switch, before and after dyno #'s will be posted, and they will be accurate as there will be minutes between pulls
with the cutout open most cars gain 10hp, since I am going to be using the race ready valve with the toggle switch, before and after dyno #'s will be posted, and they will be accurate as there will be minutes between pulls
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From: New York City | Stuck in Traffic
well I am not busy today, but the muffler shop is closed 
and tomorrow I'll be in jersey, so likely get this done when I have time maybe saturday, in any event I will take pics along the way

and tomorrow I'll be in jersey, so likely get this done when I have time maybe saturday, in any event I will take pics along the way
What you need to do Alfy is put a window switch to trigger the gate at like 4k. This way you wont lose bottom end and you will have full unrestricted flow up top where you want it. Now THAT would be badass.
Acutually Al, now that I think abou it..I am gonna steal my own idea back from you. Having this on my car, with a rpm window switch and have the gate trigger with the nitrous solonoids...... mmhahahhhahahahhaa < My Dr. Evil laugh!! lookout
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From: New York City | Stuck in Traffic
Well the parts needed are as follows to place the cutout at the 3rd cat location
1)
Richie v6 racepipe or testpipe
Or
Atlp racepipe
2)
Qtp exhaust cutout (I used this one because it is polished)
Or
Race ready performance cutout
3)
Race Ready Performance Electronic Exhaust Cutout
4)
Race Ready Performance Outlet Tip (dump pipe)
You'll have to cut the testpipe or racepipe as the flanges and weld the cutout to the flanges, then simply bolt it all backup
1)
Richie v6 racepipe or testpipe
Or
Atlp racepipe
2)
Qtp exhaust cutout (I used this one because it is polished)
Or
Race ready performance cutout
3)
Race Ready Performance Electronic Exhaust Cutout
4)
Race Ready Performance Outlet Tip (dump pipe)
You'll have to cut the testpipe or racepipe as the flanges and weld the cutout to the flanges, then simply bolt it all backup
Its gonna have to be hard wired. Not a big deal. I ran a nitrous line thru the body of the car. No thing to run 1 wire. Can pick up the ground nearby. Al has me working on manual and rpm activation. This is gonna be fun.
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From: New York City | Stuck in Traffic
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJSV15cQp8s
Looks to me about a second. Only has to turn 90 degrees. I changed my mind too BTW. I am gonna up it 100 shot so I wanna use a standard RPM activated switch for this gig and Ill use a seperate window switch for the juice. Same for you Al. Just get a standard RPM activated switch. I would think a relay is in order as well. Not sure what the draw of that little motor is but better safe than sorry. Oh I am giddy like a schoolgirl.
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From: New York City | Stuck in Traffic
oh yea werd I remember you make custom harness for the accord guys... SWEET
hey craig got a chance to take some pics for you of side by side so you can see that using clamps really wont work, expanding, overlapping then welding works best

hey craig got a chance to take some pics for you of side by side so you can see that using clamps really wont work, expanding, overlapping then welding works best

Last edited by stillhere153; Oct 21, 2008 at 05:41 PM.


