Just got my BBK from Rotora, and im wondering if there is anything i need to look out for beside the obvouis when installing?

Also anyone know the proper break in for the pads? Instructions dont mention it

Thanks.

 

Just follow the torque specs, make sure to bleed the lines properly. On newer Acuras you actually start closest to the MC. Check your Honda Manual to verify specs and bleeding procedures.

ROTORA provides info on breakin. Basically do a few 30mph to 5 mph stops then proceed to do 6-8 60-10 mph stops starting with moderate pressure and working up to heavy pressure but never engaging ABS.

 

Thanks for the info man.

I got everything installed but the rear rotors (was sent the wrong ones. too thick)

I have two possible issues.

1: There is a vibration in the brake pedal as you depress it quickly. Its not be produced from the brakes...and its only when you depress quickly but not when slowly.

2. The pedal is very soft now, yet still the brakes grab hard. I used DOT4 fluid, which the OE fluid was totaly drained out before i put the DOT4 in. Would going bake to DOT3 make the pedal harder? At this point i can get the pedal to the floor when somewhat easily.

Thanks for any help.

 

You should bleed the brakes again. soft pedal = air in the lines. Do you have someone helping you to bleed the brakes? If not, open the bleeder a crack and let it drip for a while (you may want to attach a clear hose to the bleeder nipple to prevent brake fluid from spilling on to the calipers. Brake fluid WILL damage paint. Only do one wheel at a time when gravity bleeding. Once done, grab a buddy and have them pump the pedal 2-3 times then hold down while you crack the bleeder (again, bleed each wheel completely before moving to the next).

Be sure to bleed the brakes in the proper order. I've always known to start bleeding at the RR, then LR, RF and finally LF. Excelerate seems to have some new info about Acura brake bleeding sequence?

edit: Also, adjust your rear brakes if you took them off. This could help bring pedal height back up as well.

 

The brakes were bleed completely out. Then refilled with DOT4 fluid.

The pedal stiffend up the next day so im not to worried about that. But now they are squelling like crazy when doing normal braking. Is this part of the "break in" period that will soon go away?

 

My Stoptech squeals but it's not too bad. I heard the Rotora on an Accord and it was squealing pretty bad. I'm not sure how long he had the BBK. I think once the brakes heats up the noise dies down. How is the brake dusting?

 

Yea the noise from these are horrible right now, anytime i pull up to a stop sign or light im ashamed to stop because its so loud. And its only at low speed light braking situations. If im going faster ie. Highway speed it has no noise at all and grabs so much harder than OEM.

The wear on the rotor is even so im sure the break-in runs i did after initial install were fine. I guess now i just wait untill i drive another 100 miles to see if it goes away. If not im gonna be pissed.


Also would anyone happen to have the Part Number for the rear rotor that is OEM sized from rotora? The ones they sent me are about 3x too wide on the disk, and have no room for the parking brake.

Any help is awesome, thanks again.

 

If your pedal is soft at all rebleed the brakes. You need to rebleed them. Gravity bleeding is the easiest. Just open up all the bleeders and watch for a steady trickle of fluid. Then clean the calipers off.

Yes typically you start with the bleeder furthest from the MC but look up the info in an Acura service guide or Alldata. You will find the info given is correct.

 

The pedal isnt "soft" its just softer than with the OEM brakes and fluid. Im now using DOT4 which if i am correct will soften the pedal feel.

The only problem i have now is crazy squeeling when doing slow stops. Im about 50miles from total break-in period being over. A installer atr a local shop says that could be due to the system not being broken in right when i did the break in runs mentioned above and by rotora. If this is the case, is there a way to "break them in" a second time?

There is no visual spots on the rotor that indicate one spot grabbing harder than any where else across the pad/rotor.

Ill take pics and possibly a video of the issue this evening to help describe.


Oh and if anyone is wondering why i dont have my rear rotors on....Rotora sent the wrong rotors. They sent me ones for a Lambo...ha, first TL to install a Lambo Rotora Rotor.....

 

You still have air in the lines; no ROTORA BBK I've ever done felt softer than the OE Pedal. I have never heard of DOT 4 fluid creating a softer pedal feel.

The instructions for pad bed in come in the kit. It's a series of 60-10 mph stops.

 

Yea i followed bed in instructions...ill take it in to get them professionally bled i guess.

 

hey man, i been busy for a few days... sorry i didnt get back to you

Check your VSA modulator and MC, make sure everything is kosher

i had trouble with my VSA Mod/MC and when i upgraded to the Rotora, it didnt feel right... and... i pushed it a little.... and..... to the blackura lol

did the lines bleedy properly? and uneven wear on the OEM rotors ? the DOT4, which fluid did you use? I used some german uber.something.... it was expensive as hell

 

Did your Rotoras squeeel like there is no tomorrow?

Local shop out here believes that i was sent Rotoras Ceramic racing pads, and that they will squeel untill they are super hot. (Calipers were packed by rotora so i didnt take them apart to look at pads.)

This makes sense, but what is weird is that I KNOW i have ceramic pads on the rears and they are quite as can be...

 

Guys,

You can control the squealing by spraying a jet of water on the brakes from a hose. Do this ONLY when cold to avoid warping rotors.

You can also reduce squealing by doing several quick stops at a low speed. go about 5mph and jam the brakes a few times kinda hard. DON'T do this for a long period of time and DO do this when the brakes are cold. This will dislodge particles from between the pad and rotor. Be careful not to overheat your brakes. Just 2 or 3 quick stops will do.

Squealing is caused by vibration, and brake dust can cause vibration. Both methods above will help a great deal to reduce vibration, thus reducing squealing.

 

Brakes were re-bled today. Holy shit stiff pedal.

Called rotora about the squeeling and they said the brakes has a 500 mile break in till squeeking goes away. Also said that if i want i can put squeak lubricant on the piston of the brake in between the pad.

We'll see, in a couple hundred miles.

 

Now it is time.....

 

Not yet, still waiting to get the correct rear rotor to be sent from rotora...
And im running my beat to hell ASPECs because my ACEs dont fit now. And finally, i got spacers but i only needed a 5mm spacer to clear rotor but that doesnt leave enough thread for the lug nuts...so maybe ill roll fenders/try 10mm spacers with built in studs....or just buy new wheels.