Review: XLR8 Engine Mounts
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Review: XLR8 Engine Mounts
Hi everyone!
I apologize in advance for the fact that I did not take pictures of the installation process of these mounts. Even with the help of a very experienced friend, we found installing the mounts to be a bitch. That said, it helps a lot to have the proper tools for the job from the getgo. This would include possessing a tool which can support the engine by resting on the strut towers. If you do not have access to such a tool, then it will not be possible to replace the rear mount. In addition, using such a tool will make it possible to complete the installation without dropping the engine / subframe, albeit it will still be a long process encompassing five to six hours.
Now, on to the review!
[ Application ]
When looking for a way to improve my TL's driveability, I spent some time looking for subtle, decently inexpensive upgrades which would help the car emote more "feedback" about how it was being driven. As it was, I already had deleted the slave cylinder check valve in addition to adding the Comptech short shifter and XLR8 v1 J-Pipe to my TL. However, I felt that the car still wasn't offering a healthy balance of sportiness and luxury. Many hours of thread reading later I discovered some TL owners found aftermarket engine mounts were an excellent modification for extracting some precious sportiness from the car.
Due to having a pleasant buying experience with Excelerate before, I decided to purchase their engine mounts in addition to their engine torque damper kit (see links below).
After about a month of driving around with these modifications, I have to say I'm very happy with my purchases
[ Product Information ]
Excelerate 62A Durometer Engine Mounts + Engine Torque Damper Kit
(Seen here: http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-300870.aspx and http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-300876.aspx )
Just looking at Excelerate's mounts in person is enough to make me think "Holy shit, these things aren't going to budge!" Honestly, for my application these mounts might even be a little overkill! Regardless, I am very pleased with the build quality of these mounts. The welds composing the mount assemblies are very clean and appear to be very professional. The polyurethane bushings also come with a lifetime warranty which definitely provides some peace of mind about the product's quality.
EDIT ADD BY ADMINISTRATOR RON A 18 JULY 2015: THE LIFETIME WARRANTY MENTIONED HERE HAS NOT APPLIED FOR SEVERAL YEARS. THE WARRANTY NOW IS ONE YEAR.
The appearance of the mounts alone is enough to convince me that they will handle a near stock power amount without any problems, and so far they have done just that.
Excelerate's Torque Damper kit is also on par with the mounts' build quality. The kit consists of an NRG "shock" (if that is the proper term) and a bracket to allow for proper fitment. The kit replaces the "rear engine damper" (per TL service manual lingo) and offers different levels of adjustment in addition to including a stiffer bushing which can be swapped out with the current NRG one if you choose to do so.
[ Nuances ]
After about a month of driving with these parts installed, I have to admit there are some small nuances which may or may not push you away from these mounts. The biggest concern I initially had was the amount of vibration created by the new mounts (which should not really be a surprise considering V6s are not the smoothest engines out there). The vibration is the worst at idle (800 – 900 RPM) where small rattles may appear to emanate from the dashboard. At these lower RPMs you can physically feel the vibrations created by the engine in the steering wheel. Occasionally, a vibration may also appear at 1,800 – 2,100 RPM. However, I’m 90% sure that the latter of the vibrations is amplified in part by the XLR8 J-Pipe, so that’s not really the mounts’ fault.
Another possible may be created by the mounts when taking off from a stop. Failing to give the engine enough throttle will cause some nasty cabin vibrations and shuttering. It’s not really a problem, but it can sometimes take you off guard if you have a bunch of people in your car or you are on a heavy grade. If anything, it has helped me perfect my takeoff. The vibration can also worsen if you run the air conditioner with the compressor on. Once again, it’s only at idle where it can be kind of bothersome. So the best way to deal with it is just to shut the compressor off while idling the car (i.e. stopped at a stop light or in heavy traffic). To do this, just push the AC button to temporarily shut off the compressor. Could this suck in the summer? Of course it could, but you don’t get something for nothing.
Besides the vibrations, the only other nuance I can think of is the lack of an installation manual for the torque damper kit. The mounts, while being a bitch, were pretty straight forward to replace (although we had to call Excelerate regarding what to do with the stock mount vacuum lines, which we were told to simply plug), however there were no clear instructions regarding how to mount the bracket and NRG damper on the frame and transmission. After another quick call to Excelerate, my friend and I figured it out. However, I am sure future customers would appreciate a small guide outlining how to mount the damper and properly adjust it.
[ Benefits ]
Nuances and slight annoyances aside, it really is amazing how these two kits have effected my TL’s handling. It’s difficult to quantify or even describe exactly what they have done, but the best way to summarize it would be that the car has gained some positive character from the modifications.
First off, the nose of the car feels much lighter and seems to turn in with much less effort or drama than before. My theory behind this improvement is that because the stock mounts were active (could be adjusted by the TL’s computer through vacuum lines) that they could only react to pull of gravity when the car turned. Basically, they just could not tighten up quickly enough to keep the weight of the motor from fighting inertia of the frame in unexpected, tight turns.
Throttle response has also improved rather nicely. Once again, it’s difficult to quantify exactly how much more responsive it is, but I would give a guess of 10-20%. In any case, the throttle definitely responds more quickly and accurately to inputs. Due to this increased response, nailing perfect rev-matched or heel-toe downshifts requires a lot less effort as well, which is something I value very heavily both when putting around in traffic or driving spiritedly on back roads.
Clutch play seems to have decreased as well, but this could just be a consequence of the improved throttle response. Normally when up-shifting I like to assist the clutch by speeding up then engine a few hundred RPM, but it seems the clutch grabs much earlier now, thus negating the need for balancing engine RPM on up-shifts. The clutch also exhibits some more feedback before and doesn’t feel quite as dull or boring as it was with the stock mounts. Don’t get me wrong, even with the slave cylinder mod it’s no S2000 clutch, but it does feel lighter and more predictable with these modifications.
Shifter feedback has also improved with the installation of these mounts. The 1st to 2nd gear change is much easier now and requires less wait time than with the stock mounts. It’s actually kind of scary how much feedback you get from the shifter with these kits! I would dare to say that the shifting experience is probably as close as you can get to having direct linkage to the transmission. Even before the XLR8 mounts, the short shifter and CDV delete improved the shifting experience greatly. However these mounts improved on the feedback even more (something I thought was impossible with a non direct linkage shifter). Now you can “feel” the shifter click into place during each gear change, whether its clunky second gear or tall ratio sixth. The shifter also feels more precise, making shifting an effortless affair during WOT six grand shifts and sub three thousand RPM shifts. Speaking of WOT shifts, shifting gears seems to take less time and the transmission seems more “willing” to accept abrupt gear changes (such as 2nd to 3rd @ 5,000 – 6,000 RPM).
Another rather interesting advantage presented by these mounts over the stock ones are how they hold the engine still during off-throttle gliding. The car seems even quieter during downhill highway driving than it is stock. It’s very difficult to describe the feeling, but it’s as if the engine is smoother during these periods of driving compared to when the stock mounts were installed. Additionally, in between low RPM shifts, the engine emits nearly no noise in addition to presenting little torque or movement during the whole affair. This can be physically witnessed if you park the car, open the hood and have a friend play with the accelerator. During such an event, the engine remains completely motionless.
Conveniently, these mounts won’t wear. The stock mounts have a system which guarantees the best ride with minimal vibrations. This system, like anything else, is prone to breaking or wearing down over time. I’m not saying that XLR8’s mounts are invincible, but because they do not have this system, you won’t have to worry about replacing them because an internal part of the mount breaks.
With that said, I have also noticed that the severity of the vibrations created by the mounts has decreased over the last month. This is most likely due to me just getting used to it, but I believe part of it is due to the mounts being broken in over time.
[ Conclusion ]
So what’s my ultimate recommendation?
If you’re looking for a subtle improvement in shifter feedback, go for the Torque Damper kit or even a short throw shifter (another awesome mod in addition to the slave cylinder check valve delete).
If you’re looking to add some character to your car through better handling, shifting, and an overall better driving experience and don’t mind a cammed V8 rumble at idle, than go for both the mounts and the torque damper. Trust me; you won’t be disappointed with the improvements.
Ease of Installation: 1 / 5 (to be expected of course),
Build Quality: 5 / 5 (note, I would recommend going for the 75A durometer if you plan on some crazy 400+ HP build),
Handling Improvement: 5 / 5
Transmission / Shifting Feedback: 5 / 5
Engine Feedback: 5 / 5
Comfort Level Decrease: 2 / 5
[ Thanks for reading! ]
I hope this review helps out anyone in the market for handling / minor engine modifications, if you have any other questions, please feel free to ask here.
I apologize in advance for the fact that I did not take pictures of the installation process of these mounts. Even with the help of a very experienced friend, we found installing the mounts to be a bitch. That said, it helps a lot to have the proper tools for the job from the getgo. This would include possessing a tool which can support the engine by resting on the strut towers. If you do not have access to such a tool, then it will not be possible to replace the rear mount. In addition, using such a tool will make it possible to complete the installation without dropping the engine / subframe, albeit it will still be a long process encompassing five to six hours.
Now, on to the review!
[ Application ]
When looking for a way to improve my TL's driveability, I spent some time looking for subtle, decently inexpensive upgrades which would help the car emote more "feedback" about how it was being driven. As it was, I already had deleted the slave cylinder check valve in addition to adding the Comptech short shifter and XLR8 v1 J-Pipe to my TL. However, I felt that the car still wasn't offering a healthy balance of sportiness and luxury. Many hours of thread reading later I discovered some TL owners found aftermarket engine mounts were an excellent modification for extracting some precious sportiness from the car.
Due to having a pleasant buying experience with Excelerate before, I decided to purchase their engine mounts in addition to their engine torque damper kit (see links below).
After about a month of driving around with these modifications, I have to say I'm very happy with my purchases
[ Product Information ]
Excelerate 62A Durometer Engine Mounts + Engine Torque Damper Kit
(Seen here: http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-300870.aspx and http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-300876.aspx )
Just looking at Excelerate's mounts in person is enough to make me think "Holy shit, these things aren't going to budge!" Honestly, for my application these mounts might even be a little overkill! Regardless, I am very pleased with the build quality of these mounts. The welds composing the mount assemblies are very clean and appear to be very professional. The polyurethane bushings also come with a lifetime warranty which definitely provides some peace of mind about the product's quality.
EDIT ADD BY ADMINISTRATOR RON A 18 JULY 2015: THE LIFETIME WARRANTY MENTIONED HERE HAS NOT APPLIED FOR SEVERAL YEARS. THE WARRANTY NOW IS ONE YEAR.
The appearance of the mounts alone is enough to convince me that they will handle a near stock power amount without any problems, and so far they have done just that.
Excelerate's Torque Damper kit is also on par with the mounts' build quality. The kit consists of an NRG "shock" (if that is the proper term) and a bracket to allow for proper fitment. The kit replaces the "rear engine damper" (per TL service manual lingo) and offers different levels of adjustment in addition to including a stiffer bushing which can be swapped out with the current NRG one if you choose to do so.
[ Nuances ]
After about a month of driving with these parts installed, I have to admit there are some small nuances which may or may not push you away from these mounts. The biggest concern I initially had was the amount of vibration created by the new mounts (which should not really be a surprise considering V6s are not the smoothest engines out there). The vibration is the worst at idle (800 – 900 RPM) where small rattles may appear to emanate from the dashboard. At these lower RPMs you can physically feel the vibrations created by the engine in the steering wheel. Occasionally, a vibration may also appear at 1,800 – 2,100 RPM. However, I’m 90% sure that the latter of the vibrations is amplified in part by the XLR8 J-Pipe, so that’s not really the mounts’ fault.
Another possible may be created by the mounts when taking off from a stop. Failing to give the engine enough throttle will cause some nasty cabin vibrations and shuttering. It’s not really a problem, but it can sometimes take you off guard if you have a bunch of people in your car or you are on a heavy grade. If anything, it has helped me perfect my takeoff. The vibration can also worsen if you run the air conditioner with the compressor on. Once again, it’s only at idle where it can be kind of bothersome. So the best way to deal with it is just to shut the compressor off while idling the car (i.e. stopped at a stop light or in heavy traffic). To do this, just push the AC button to temporarily shut off the compressor. Could this suck in the summer? Of course it could, but you don’t get something for nothing.
Besides the vibrations, the only other nuance I can think of is the lack of an installation manual for the torque damper kit. The mounts, while being a bitch, were pretty straight forward to replace (although we had to call Excelerate regarding what to do with the stock mount vacuum lines, which we were told to simply plug), however there were no clear instructions regarding how to mount the bracket and NRG damper on the frame and transmission. After another quick call to Excelerate, my friend and I figured it out. However, I am sure future customers would appreciate a small guide outlining how to mount the damper and properly adjust it.
[ Benefits ]
Nuances and slight annoyances aside, it really is amazing how these two kits have effected my TL’s handling. It’s difficult to quantify or even describe exactly what they have done, but the best way to summarize it would be that the car has gained some positive character from the modifications.
First off, the nose of the car feels much lighter and seems to turn in with much less effort or drama than before. My theory behind this improvement is that because the stock mounts were active (could be adjusted by the TL’s computer through vacuum lines) that they could only react to pull of gravity when the car turned. Basically, they just could not tighten up quickly enough to keep the weight of the motor from fighting inertia of the frame in unexpected, tight turns.
Throttle response has also improved rather nicely. Once again, it’s difficult to quantify exactly how much more responsive it is, but I would give a guess of 10-20%. In any case, the throttle definitely responds more quickly and accurately to inputs. Due to this increased response, nailing perfect rev-matched or heel-toe downshifts requires a lot less effort as well, which is something I value very heavily both when putting around in traffic or driving spiritedly on back roads.
Clutch play seems to have decreased as well, but this could just be a consequence of the improved throttle response. Normally when up-shifting I like to assist the clutch by speeding up then engine a few hundred RPM, but it seems the clutch grabs much earlier now, thus negating the need for balancing engine RPM on up-shifts. The clutch also exhibits some more feedback before and doesn’t feel quite as dull or boring as it was with the stock mounts. Don’t get me wrong, even with the slave cylinder mod it’s no S2000 clutch, but it does feel lighter and more predictable with these modifications.
Shifter feedback has also improved with the installation of these mounts. The 1st to 2nd gear change is much easier now and requires less wait time than with the stock mounts. It’s actually kind of scary how much feedback you get from the shifter with these kits! I would dare to say that the shifting experience is probably as close as you can get to having direct linkage to the transmission. Even before the XLR8 mounts, the short shifter and CDV delete improved the shifting experience greatly. However these mounts improved on the feedback even more (something I thought was impossible with a non direct linkage shifter). Now you can “feel” the shifter click into place during each gear change, whether its clunky second gear or tall ratio sixth. The shifter also feels more precise, making shifting an effortless affair during WOT six grand shifts and sub three thousand RPM shifts. Speaking of WOT shifts, shifting gears seems to take less time and the transmission seems more “willing” to accept abrupt gear changes (such as 2nd to 3rd @ 5,000 – 6,000 RPM).
Another rather interesting advantage presented by these mounts over the stock ones are how they hold the engine still during off-throttle gliding. The car seems even quieter during downhill highway driving than it is stock. It’s very difficult to describe the feeling, but it’s as if the engine is smoother during these periods of driving compared to when the stock mounts were installed. Additionally, in between low RPM shifts, the engine emits nearly no noise in addition to presenting little torque or movement during the whole affair. This can be physically witnessed if you park the car, open the hood and have a friend play with the accelerator. During such an event, the engine remains completely motionless.
Conveniently, these mounts won’t wear. The stock mounts have a system which guarantees the best ride with minimal vibrations. This system, like anything else, is prone to breaking or wearing down over time. I’m not saying that XLR8’s mounts are invincible, but because they do not have this system, you won’t have to worry about replacing them because an internal part of the mount breaks.
With that said, I have also noticed that the severity of the vibrations created by the mounts has decreased over the last month. This is most likely due to me just getting used to it, but I believe part of it is due to the mounts being broken in over time.
[ Conclusion ]
So what’s my ultimate recommendation?
If you’re looking for a subtle improvement in shifter feedback, go for the Torque Damper kit or even a short throw shifter (another awesome mod in addition to the slave cylinder check valve delete).
If you’re looking to add some character to your car through better handling, shifting, and an overall better driving experience and don’t mind a cammed V8 rumble at idle, than go for both the mounts and the torque damper. Trust me; you won’t be disappointed with the improvements.
Ease of Installation: 1 / 5 (to be expected of course),
Build Quality: 5 / 5 (note, I would recommend going for the 75A durometer if you plan on some crazy 400+ HP build),
Handling Improvement: 5 / 5
Transmission / Shifting Feedback: 5 / 5
Engine Feedback: 5 / 5
Comfort Level Decrease: 2 / 5
[ Thanks for reading! ]
I hope this review helps out anyone in the market for handling / minor engine modifications, if you have any other questions, please feel free to ask here.
That sir is an amazing first post and thanks giving us such a thorough review of the mounts.
I have been reading up on them over the last week to compliment the Torque Dampener.
Once my OEM Engine Mounts go I will probably opt for either the 62A or 75A ones.
I have been reading up on them over the last week to compliment the Torque Dampener.
Once my OEM Engine Mounts go I will probably opt for either the 62A or 75A ones.
N0w $hiftinG N/A
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 244
Likes: 11
From: Bk/FL(now)
Good review bro enjoy the new mounts. I have the 75A and they have a bit more rubmle to the car then the 65A but deffinatly better than OEM mount over all. These mounts make the car feel very more responsive, better downshifts, handling its just superior over allll especially for us 6MT guys it reallys does make going thru the manual gears more fun to play with if you get the hint. But after a while of driving around during the ( break in period) I personally notice that the rumble tones down a little but still noticable.
I too have the 75a mounts but due to a stripped bolt holding the rear mount to the subframe i am only running two poly mounts. the vibration is very minimal but i know will increase once the rear one goes in. My first impressions was that with my 6mt, if you are cruising around and you tap the gas you almost don't feel that uncomfortable rocking of the engine(torn front mount and blown side mount). Also the added feeling of torque is back, its like you have full control of the car again. Amazing mod of course but big props to XLR8 for perfecting it!
this may sound really strange...
but, can you get a video of your driver door open at idle? the edge of the door should show the vibrations, and i've always used that as a comparison when you can't actually drive the car or sit in it to feel the difference
but, can you get a video of your driver door open at idle? the edge of the door should show the vibrations, and i've always used that as a comparison when you can't actually drive the car or sit in it to feel the difference
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Good review and it mirrors the experience i had. I picked the set up like 2 months ago and it's awesome. The car runs solid even though there is a little vibration to go along with it. I bought both the Engine torque dampener and XLR8 motor mounts (62A) for my 6MT. The OEM damper and motor mounts were all shot at 105k. I could close the stock ETD with my fingers that's how loose it was.
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Like I said in my review, I would be careful about choosing the 75A mounts. If you're making a ton more power then stock, definitely go for it. But if you're looking just to replace the OEM mounts, then go for 62A.
Good review bro enjoy the new mounts. I have the 75A and they have a bit more rubmle to the car then the 65A but deffinatly better than OEM mount over all. These mounts make the car feel very more responsive, better downshifts, handling its just superior over allll especially for us 6MT guys it reallys does make going thru the manual gears more fun to play with if you get the hint. But after a while of driving around during the ( break in period) I personally notice that the rumble tones down a little but still noticable.
Sounds like you had a very similar experience to my own
I too have the 75a mounts but due to a stripped bolt holding the rear mount to the subframe i am only running two poly mounts. the vibration is very minimal but i know will increase once the rear one goes in. My first impressions was that with my 6mt, if you are cruising around and you tap the gas you almost don't feel that uncomfortable rocking of the engine(torn front mount and blown side mount). Also the added feeling of torque is back, its like you have full control of the car again. Amazing mod of course but big props to XLR8 for perfecting it!
I should of taken some pictures of the parts when they came in though
I've heard some excellent things about aftermarket sway bars... Perhaps a mod for the future...
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Btw guys, here's the video you requested. It doesn't really show much, but I tried lol:
I tried recording the driver's door while open, but since I don't have a tripod, I could not get a decently steady shot of any vibration.
P.S: Could a moderator please edit my original post to include the video link? I can't seem to find a way to edit my OP.
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The installation process on the Torque Damper kit is somewhat straight forward, but like I said before, we were not clear on which way it had to be mounted (as both ends appeared interchangeable).
I would have to go look at the damper again to see how my friend and I installed it, but here's a thread that might be of some use in the meantime: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/xlr8-engine-torque-damper-04-08-tl-manual-764069/ (see the third post for pictures of how Excelerate installed it).
It also appears Inaccurate posted in the thread detailing how to install the kit on Automatic Transmission TLs.
04-TL/MDX/77-CELICA GT
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 19
Likes: 3
From: Michigan
I can feel the car now.....
I replaced broken OEM mounts with the XLR8 62a as a shot at getting rid of a bad 45-70 mph acceleration shudder/vibration and maybe some torque steer (it worked on both counts!). Also gone is the bad idle shake b/f warm up, engine rocking, and a "slam" upon quick throttle off or on.
I got much more than the removal of those problems though. I, like komet, have wanted a way to improve the TL's driveability. For me, it was about more of a driving feel - a connection to the car. I am shocked at how much the XLR8 62a mounts have improved the car! I feel more connected to the car and definitely the engine now.
Also, I previously "tolerated" the clutch (had done the check valve delete and transmission upgrades (short shifter/countersunk knob/spherical cable bushings/GM synchromesh). Now the engine is stable and I am no-longer clutching a connection to a wet noodle. The clutch isn't perfect but way easier to feel. I can also more easily feel where the engine is in the rpm range now - a definite plus.
I agree with koment's pros re. the mounts. I previously felt too disconnected from the engine (and car) due to the soft oem mounts. The car is way easier to drive mellow or push hard because you can feel it better. I feel like the car is more of a sports sedan instead of a confused machine.
On the cons side - yes there is a bit of vibration at idle (much smaller amplitude than broken oem) but the frequency may be higher - no big deal though. The pros significantly outweigh the cons for an enthusiast driver.
I put off this "repair" until the acceleration vibration and torque steer worsened because it felt like getting socks for Christmas. I was wrong. I got a lot more. I got an upgrade that I had been wanting - a car that I could feel and become a part of!
I got much more than the removal of those problems though. I, like komet, have wanted a way to improve the TL's driveability. For me, it was about more of a driving feel - a connection to the car. I am shocked at how much the XLR8 62a mounts have improved the car! I feel more connected to the car and definitely the engine now.
Also, I previously "tolerated" the clutch (had done the check valve delete and transmission upgrades (short shifter/countersunk knob/spherical cable bushings/GM synchromesh). Now the engine is stable and I am no-longer clutching a connection to a wet noodle. The clutch isn't perfect but way easier to feel. I can also more easily feel where the engine is in the rpm range now - a definite plus.
I agree with koment's pros re. the mounts. I previously felt too disconnected from the engine (and car) due to the soft oem mounts. The car is way easier to drive mellow or push hard because you can feel it better. I feel like the car is more of a sports sedan instead of a confused machine.
On the cons side - yes there is a bit of vibration at idle (much smaller amplitude than broken oem) but the frequency may be higher - no big deal though. The pros significantly outweigh the cons for an enthusiast driver.
I put off this "repair" until the acceleration vibration and torque steer worsened because it felt like getting socks for Christmas. I was wrong. I got a lot more. I got an upgrade that I had been wanting - a car that I could feel and become a part of!
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From: www.ExceleratePerformance.com
I replaced broken OEM mounts with the XLR8 62a as a shot at getting rid of a bad 45-70 mph acceleration shudder/vibration and maybe some torque steer (it worked on both counts!). Also gone is the bad idle shake b/f warm up, engine rocking, and a "slam" upon quick throttle off or on.
I got much more than the removal of those problems though. I, like komet, have wanted a way to improve the TL's driveability. For me, it was about more of a driving feel - a connection to the car. I am shocked at how much the XLR8 62a mounts have improved the car! I feel more connected to the car and definitely the engine now.
Also, I previously "tolerated" the clutch (had done the check valve delete and transmission upgrades (short shifter/countersunk knob/spherical cable bushings/GM synchromesh). Now the engine is stable and I am no-longer clutching a connection to a wet noodle. The clutch isn't perfect but way easier to feel. I can also more easily feel where the engine is in the rpm range now - a definite plus.
I agree with koment's pros re. the mounts. I previously felt too disconnected from the engine (and car) due to the soft oem mounts. The car is way easier to drive mellow or push hard because you can feel it better. I feel like the car is more of a sports sedan instead of a confused machine.
On the cons side - yes there is a bit of vibration at idle (much smaller amplitude than broken oem) but the frequency may be higher - no big deal though. The pros significantly outweigh the cons for an enthusiast driver.
I put off this "repair" until the acceleration vibration and torque steer worsened because it felt like getting socks for Christmas. I was wrong. I got a lot more. I got an upgrade that I had been wanting - a car that I could feel and become a part of!
I got much more than the removal of those problems though. I, like komet, have wanted a way to improve the TL's driveability. For me, it was about more of a driving feel - a connection to the car. I am shocked at how much the XLR8 62a mounts have improved the car! I feel more connected to the car and definitely the engine now.
Also, I previously "tolerated" the clutch (had done the check valve delete and transmission upgrades (short shifter/countersunk knob/spherical cable bushings/GM synchromesh). Now the engine is stable and I am no-longer clutching a connection to a wet noodle. The clutch isn't perfect but way easier to feel. I can also more easily feel where the engine is in the rpm range now - a definite plus.
I agree with koment's pros re. the mounts. I previously felt too disconnected from the engine (and car) due to the soft oem mounts. The car is way easier to drive mellow or push hard because you can feel it better. I feel like the car is more of a sports sedan instead of a confused machine.
On the cons side - yes there is a bit of vibration at idle (much smaller amplitude than broken oem) but the frequency may be higher - no big deal though. The pros significantly outweigh the cons for an enthusiast driver.
I put off this "repair" until the acceleration vibration and torque steer worsened because it felt like getting socks for Christmas. I was wrong. I got a lot more. I got an upgrade that I had been wanting - a car that I could feel and become a part of!
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: dfw
i have a 2000 tl base automatic....mounts are shot...wondering if i should get aftermarket mounts? any suggestions.....daily driver,occasional track meaning 1 or 2 a year...go with oreilly or napa or autozone...???????xlr8?
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http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-411798.aspx
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From: dfw
yeah but i want mounts that fit....direct fit,i dont want to have to buy bolts cuz yours dont fit,i dont want to have to drill holes either...im lazy,the easier the better...i have read that your xlr8 top right mount isnt exactly a direct fit,nor do the bolts that i pull off work,i have to use washers????? id rather get everything i need with it all in one so theres no problems...
I am sure Excelerate will confirm but the reason I ordered a set and actually just received them today is that they changed that mount to be direct fit.
I would have to look for the thread or article that I read that had the info, but like I said. I am sure xlr8 will clarify as I do not want to spread mis-information.
I would have to look for the thread or article that I read that had the info, but like I said. I am sure xlr8 will clarify as I do not want to spread mis-information.
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yeah but i want mounts that fit....direct fit,i dont want to have to buy bolts cuz yours dont fit,i dont want to have to drill holes either...im lazy,the easier the better...i have read that your xlr8 top right mount isnt exactly a direct fit,nor do the bolts that i pull off work,i have to use washers????? id rather get everything i need with it all in one so theres no problems...
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From: dfw
how many washers does it take to make it flush so that the mechanic who will be putting them on for me will know,id do it but i had syrgery...just dont need him coming back and saying they dont fit,or could i use just the mount itself and use the stock flange so theres no need to even use washers?
This would include possessing a tool which can support the engine by resting on the strut towers. If you do not have access to such a tool, then it will not be possible to replace the rear mount. In addition, using such a tool will make it possible to complete the installation without dropping the engine / subframe, albeit it will still be a long process encompassing five to six hours.
I have the box in living room. I cut open the tape and personally haven't even taken them out and looked at them yet. I won't have time to install for about a month.
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From: dfw
got my mounts today...bad thing is missing 1 important part...the part where the engine rests on so i can bolt the engine down 
whats up with that...got part of what i need and im pissed,300 bucks and im missing the most important part, i guess accidents happen but damn why does it have to be me it happens to?
whats up with that...got part of what i need and im pissed,300 bucks and im missing the most important part, i guess accidents happen but damn why does it have to be me it happens to?
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The part number is 90167-SL0-010 for the 10x70 motor mount flange bolts. There are other 10x70 flange bolts you can get from Acura that are cheaper but the flange isn't as large as the ones for the part I listed and the part I listed are actual motor mount bolts but just for a different Acura model like mdx or something.
Last edited by simione; Mar 31, 2013 at 12:19 PM.
I had these installed when I replaced my clutch and absolutely love the way these feel. Especially cruising around town in low gears where the TL is so torquey, you definitely feel the difference. Much more planted to the ground and these installed flawlessly. Not a single problem.
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Give me a list of the shorter bolts needed and I'll put them in the box. I just forgot what the length was from last time we installed them. Send it via email to sales@excelerateperformance.com please.
Give me a list of the shorter bolts needed and I'll put them in the box. I just forgot what the length was from last time we installed them. Send it via email to sales@excelerateperformance.com please.
Would either of you care to share the size / pitch of the bolts used since I already have the kit with the longer bolts and will need the shorter ones???
Thanks