Hey all I'm new to the forum and recently purchased an '06 TL- I kind of have an unorthadox question.

So I know I'm going to get a CAI for it soon and some sort of cat-back exhaust but is there any way to raise the rev limiter to something like 7300 rpm? I feel like it would be able to handle the extra few hundred revs without any serious problems (like valve float) and it might make up for the 4th gear drop off that the TL is notorious for.

 

I think the MT TL doesn't cut fuel or rev limit until 7k RPM anyway. If you are talking about an automatic I don't know where the fuel cut out is.

 

Raising the rev limit is not advised.

 

^it never is. but the tl can most likely handle it. unfortunately, nobody has been able to do so

 

^
It's going to be tricky. Over-rev=bent exhaust valves=$$$.

 

Usually supporting mods are done starting with stiffer valvesprings. There's always a margin of safety with the factory chosen revlimit. I'm spinning my turbo car 1,100rpm past the factory limit. The TL *should* go to 7,300rpm without hurting anything but you would be the first to try it that I know of without additional mods.

I think it would make power to 7,300 for sure. Mine pulls strong right up to the factory limiter.

FWIW, on the dyno it showed mine hitting the limiter at 7,100rpm. I believe Acura literature shows it at 6,900rpm.

 

^^ hey ihc i plan on putting kms valvespring/ spring combo on my car soon, and want to ask will this qualify as supporting mods to raise rev limiter higher safetly? or does each valvespring/ spring combo have a recommended rpm to work for?

 

tenzingsherpa,

There is no real matching of valve springs to a particular rpm range. Picking the correct spring involves a "right sizing".

You don't want too little spring pressure because the valves will "float" and make contact with the rising piston or break a keeper/retainer from the bouncing. This is why you need stiffer springs to raise your rpm limit.

You don't want too much spring pressure because this can break parts, like your rocker arms and perhaps keepers/retainer. The TL has roller rockers, but other older cars have to worry about scuffing the cam lobes with too much spring.

The one thing that you must be very careful to check is "coil bind". Big issue, very important. You don't want the cam trying to compress the spring further than the max available travel of the spring.

"Ok, what does all of this mean?". In summary, you don't have to worry about matching an exact spring to an exact rpm range. You need a spring that has much more pressure than oem. I would aim for about 20% to 30% more pressure (seat pressure) than oem. You want to error on the side of "too much" pressure than "too little" pressure.

Look in the TL Service Manual for the oem spring specs (seat pressure and coil bind height). Make sure the new springs has at least the same amount (or *less* height) of coil bind height. Other issues are spring diameter. The new spring must have an outer diameter that is not too big to sit on the spring pad (raised or lowered boss on the head). The spring needs the correct inside diameter to have clearance for the valve stem seals.

Be darn sure to purchase high performance keepers and retainers that match the new springs. Most performance companies will recommend the appropriate keeper and retainers for the new springs. The high performance keepers and retainers are a "must have" item.... or, you will break and it will be ugly.

 

*3*GEN TL - Supertech Spring and Retainer Kit!!! (click here)

*2*GEN TL - Supertech Spring and Retainer Kit!!! (click here)