Racing ATF

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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 03:44 PM
  #681  
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So the verdict is (for all us TL-noobs), change your mother effing tranny fluid to redline atf. Got it.
Old Mar 20, 2011 | 03:48 PM
  #682  
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EDIT: And change out the 3rd and 4th pressure sensor.
Old Mar 20, 2011 | 10:27 PM
  #683  
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There seems to be many people having difficulties to get shops/mechanics to add the Redline Racing ATF to their trans. To these people, I offer the following -

Buy 3 qts of Honda Z1. Dispose of the contents. Put the Redline Racing into the new Z1 containers.

Find a place that will agree to use your supplied "Honda Z1" fluid (cough, cough).

Don't forget to tell them to place the empty containers in your trunk. After all, you will need those containers again for the additional refills.

By the way, I am being serious with this post. There is always more ways than one to skin a cat.

For added safety, you can place a small mark with a permanent pen on each of your bottles. Before leaving, check your trunk to see if the three empty containers have your hidden mark. This should pretty much guarantee that the Racing fluid was added to your trans.
Old Mar 21, 2011 | 09:54 AM
  #684  
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
I agree with your choice to let the dealer replace and then switch to type F.

What I absolutely can't stand is the dealer saying he had never seen a flare before. Unbelievable. And now he wants to send a snapshot to corporate over a simple flare.
no what I meant to say or you missed was he had never seen this happen on an 07-08 TypeS, in other others no other TypeS has come to that dealer with this type of issue, but yea pretty common sense. Also it's not so much the dealer not wanting to do the transmission, it's Acura themselves asking the dealership to catch a snapshot of it not going into correct gear ratio and etc else before replacing.(goes to show how much Acura trusts their stealerships right!!!

....
Originally Posted by I hate cars
Anyway, what you're seeing is the normal failure mode. Shudder is the clutches slipping and grabbing, sometimes several times a second. Once the shudder wears the clutches enough, they no longer slip and grab, they just slip which is the flare you're seeing. .
exactly which is what im glad is happening now so I can get this ordeal over with and get this Trans and start fresh with the Redline TypeF fluid...good point I will def mention to them to do a cooler flush as well and possibly change out the switches


Originally Posted by I hate cars
One thing you might want to run by them is a reminder to flush the cooler since there's a lot of clutch material floating around and hopefully they do the switches too.
good point I will def mention to them to do a cooler flush as well and possibly change out the switches


will keep updated on this and with income taxes around the corner good time to purchase this Redline fluid stuff and have it ready for when I get the car back..in the meantime driving around in a new V6 TSX ain't so bad while I wait for mine
Old Mar 22, 2011 | 10:06 PM
  #685  
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update and some greats news....transmission has been ordered and awaiting arrival at dealer for install....also mentioned to do a complete flush out in the lines and trans cooler

also just finished placing an order for 9quarts of all redline lightweight racing fluid....yes i will be using just lightweight in a colder region of the country..... we will see if it does well come next winter with 100% lightweight in there....will be driving the car to florida in 2weeks so it will be a good test with the new trans and fresh redline in it......

thanks again Inaccurate for being very sharing n informative with this thread....IHC also good info n tips as well"........

sidenote some nitto invo's also coming my way all im missing now is RV6 exhaust to be done and JnR ecu and ill be happy camper
Old Mar 22, 2011 | 11:07 PM
  #686  
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
It may be in your best interest to do nothing and see if they will replace it. The only problem is it does consierable wear every time it shudders and if they don't replace it, you end up with more wear.

You have a Type-S which means you have a cooler. All you have to do a single drain and fill. Pull a cooler line and stick it into a 5 gallon bucket. Start the engine and add fluid back into the trans at the same rate it's coming out. You should be able to have 100% new fluid with only 8 quarts.
can you go into more detail on this please? im a noob when it comes to doing maintenance but am looking to do myself soon.
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 02:16 AM
  #687  
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^^^ +1, this would be a serious time saver for us Type-S owners.

Old Mar 23, 2011 | 04:25 AM
  #688  
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Ordered 12 quarts of Redline Racing on Tuesday! WINNER

Now about to order the sensors. hmm
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 02:39 PM
  #689  
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It's kind of nice to see that Type F is easily accepted by people here now
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 07:25 PM
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Completely new

So I've been reading just about everything on Redline Racing ATF and I'm almost ready to pull the trigger. My only issue is that a trusted mechanic I use, who has been working on Hondas for over a decade, advised against using F-Type. He said it was phased out in the 90's for a reason.

I own an 05 Acuar TL with 112k miles on it. I bought it used with 55k miles on it. The first ATF drain and fill was done at dealer at 60k. The next drain and fill was done at 105k. I've had no issues with the Z1 and the car runs perfect. I'm kind of nervouse to change things but after reading all of the posts on Z1 I've been swaying away from the oem fluid. I wonder if the DW-1 will be much better?

I kind of wish I never read any of these posts. I would have been happy and content with using Honda Z1 now all I do is worry! LOL!

If Raceline Racing ATF is not an option what would be the next best thing?
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 08:35 PM
  #691  
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Originally Posted by Made in America
If Raceline Racing ATF is not an option what would be the next best thing?
If you are really uncomfortable with Redline Racing, then the next best thing would be Redline D4 which is compatible with Honda-Z1... but I would put in the Racing. I've had the Racing fluid in my car for 25k miles and they've been the best 25k as far as the trans is concerned.
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 08:50 PM
  #692  
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Originally Posted by Made in America
So I've been reading just about everything on Redline Racing ATF and I'm almost ready to pull the trigger. My only issue is that a trusted mechanic I use, who has been working on Hondas for over a decade, advised against using F-Type. He said it was phased out in the 90's for a reason.

I own an 05 Acuar TL with 112k miles on it. I bought it used with 55k miles on it. The first ATF drain and fill was done at dealer at 60k. The next drain and fill was done at 105k. I've had no issues with the Z1 and the car runs perfect. I'm kind of nervouse to change things but after reading all of the posts on Z1 I've been swaying away from the oem fluid. I wonder if the DW-1 will be much better?

I kind of wish I never read any of these posts. I would have been happy and content with using Honda Z1 now all I do is worry! LOL!

If Raceline Racing ATF is not an option what would be the next best thing?
Get a new mechanic. It was not phased out, it's still made today. It's no longer an OEM fluid because manufacturers have gone toward softer shifts. Ask him how many times he's tried type F in a Honda 5at and compare that number to the number of success stories on here.

His ignorance is not a reason to recommend against it. He should have said he didn't know what it would do. Not that long ago, any fluid other than Z1 was thought to cause instant failure. Now we know it's the factory fluid causing the failures.
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 09:15 PM
  #693  
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Will the D4 help in the longevity of the transmission? As much as the Racing will?

I'm okay with the D4 as long as it will help the life of the transmission. I don't really care about sharp shifting. As long as it shifts as well as it does now.

I drive slow most of the time anyways since I have a 17 month old in the back most of the time.
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 09:25 PM
  #694  
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Originally Posted by Made in America
Will the D4 help in the longevity of the transmission? As much as the Racing will?

I'm okay with the D4 as long as it will help the life of the transmission. I don't really care about sharp shifting. As long as it shifts as well as it does now.

I drive slow most of the time anyways since I have a 17 month old in the back most of the time.
D4 will definitely help it to last longer than Z1. But the type F will make it last much longer than D4. On type F it shifts sharper but you can't feel it. I know that makes no sense but the shifts are much quicker, the tach drops much quicker, but in my car you can't feel the shifts at all. The exception is full throttle is a little firmer.

Driving style makes no difference in which fluid you use. It's unfortunate that the type F is marketed as a racing fluid because it makes people think the wrong things about it. It could be argued that more wear occurs during easy driving than hard driving because the shifts are designed to be even softer. Even though I've tracked my car, I baby it 90% of the time and I wouldn't use any other fluid.

D4 will work well but keep in mind, if you do a single drain and fill of type F, you only have 50% type F with the rest being Z1. If you don't like the direction it's going, you can always do the next two drains and fills with D4. I'm not trying to put pressure on you to use the type F but I'll guarantee it's the best fluid for your transmission.
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 09:29 PM
  #695  
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Originally Posted by Made in America
Will the D4 help in the longevity of the transmission? As much as the Racing will?

I'm okay with the D4 as long as it will help the life of the transmission. I don't really care about sharp shifting. As long as it shifts as well as it does now.

I drive slow most of the time anyways since I have a 17 month old in the back most of the time.
D4 will be better for the longevity of your trans than the Honda-Z1 since it has less FM (friction modifier), but it still has some FM included although significantly less than the Z1. However, the Racing will be even better than the D4 in terms of wear on the clutches since there is no FM. The FM put into the fluids gives "softer" shifts in exchange for wear on the clutches. I honestly don't notice the shifts being too firm with the Racing and I am very very happy with it.
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 09:41 PM
  #696  
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Okay, thank you very much. There's a dealer across town where I can pick up a case for $104. I'll make the 30 mile trek to get it. There's a mechanic who will do the fill and drain for $55. I'm thinking of buying a jack and stands and start doing it myself.

I also have a Honda Pilot that need a trans change soon. Anyone have any ideas on what to put in it? The 2006 Pilots have had very little issues with the trans. Some people are using Amsoil or Mobil 1 without issues. Just wanted an opinion from the experts around here.

Thank you!
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 09:44 PM
  #697  
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Originally Posted by Made in America
Okay, thank you very much. There's a dealer across town where I can pick up a case for $104. I'll make the 30 mile trek to get it. There's a mechanic who will do the fill and drain for $55. I'm thinking of buying a jack and stands and start doing it myself.

I also have a Honda Pilot that need a trans change soon. Anyone have any ideas on what to put in it? The 2006 Pilots have had very little issues with the trans. Some people are using Amsoil or Mobil 1 without issues. Just wanted an opinion from the experts around here.

Thank you!
Redline D4, Mobil One, and Amsoil "ATF" are all DexIII fluids. All will perform similarly, I would go by price. I would definitely go with any of these 3 over Z1.
Old Mar 23, 2011 | 11:24 PM
  #698  
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The shifts with the M1 and Redline Racing are identical in both of my TLs except under WOT applications. There was no wear on the plug after 20K on the M1 - I don't know how you get less than none. It came out red and smelled great (think right).

After I get 20K on the racing, I will probably go back to M1 since I can get it locally with ease.

I have been using Dex III in honda trannys since the 1990s with good results. Cheap, no name, Dex III can cause some nearly harsh shifts, which is why I went with the M1. I think that FM is a large of the battle, but I think that the better base is huge too.
Old Mar 24, 2011 | 07:44 AM
  #699  
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My only complaint about switching to the Type F fluid (it's actually a mixture right now of Amsoil and Redline Type F) is that the first shifts in the morning are pretty harsh. After that first shift is out of the way the car shifts crisp and clean.
Old Mar 24, 2011 | 07:18 PM
  #700  
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Thanks for all who have contributed to this thread

For our 07 base w/ 60k, I've ordered the pressure sensors, 8 qts of Redline Racing ATF Type F and 4 qts of Redline Lightweight racing ATF type F.

I plan on doing a 4x3. I'll probably do a 1x3 on each of my oil changes at every 6k miles (approx every 3 months) considering the car will see 22k + hwy miles each year, I should complete the 4x3 in approximately a year..lol

After this round of 4x3, i'm thinking I'll easily good until 200k as far as tranny fluid goes- anyone disagree? I'm sure I'll do the pressure sensors again about every 50k miles. At the 200k mark, it'll be time for a good full tune up including the timing belt, plugs, and another 4x3

I plan on keeping this car for a very long time, so this is a good cheap insurance IMO.
Old Mar 24, 2011 | 07:51 PM
  #701  
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Just found a dealer in my area. 10.99 for the atf sound right?
Old Mar 25, 2011 | 11:59 PM
  #702  
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So I was in Wal-Mart today looking for some funnels and tubes. I stopped to see what type of ATF they carry and to my chagrin they only carried SuperTech. They had DexIII and F-Type. All of it seemed to have passed the minimum requirements. What interested me was the price. $9.50 for an entire gallon of Dex III! Can this stuff replace Z1 on my Honda Pilot or maybe even on the Acura???

SuperTech is made in American distributed by Warren Distribution.
I'm guessing the price is set that low because it's the only brand Wal-Mart carries.
Old Mar 26, 2011 | 01:26 AM
  #703  
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Originally Posted by AcRightLINY
Just found a dealer in my area. 10.99 for the atf sound right?
You can get a better buying bulk online but that seems to be the going rate per quart +/- $2.

So if you don't need 12 quarts, go for it.
Old Mar 27, 2011 | 06:54 PM
  #704  
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trans update and IHC you will love this one,

so they will do complete flush including the trans cooler and lines,also the new transmission is coming with new pressure sensors can't beat that

so if i dont ever have to get another warranty thing at dealer this in itself is already worth it, and with the lightweight redline soon to arrive, this all makes for a winning combonatio
Old Mar 28, 2011 | 12:50 PM
  #705  
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ok, my head is spinning after reading this whole post. Could someone please answer the following? I've read conflicting on these:

I live in New England, should I go with standard Redline D4 vs Racing? Concern is viscosity due to the cold.

Should I do a 3x3 all at once or is it best to do a partial drain, drive for 1-2k mi and repeat till the 3x is met?

My 06 TL has 47K mi on it. I haven't changed the fluid since I got it.
PS: "IHC" ( I know you'll see this post)...I filled up on Sunoco 93 last night, even tho it cost me $.30+/gal more, the car deserves it after all
Old Mar 28, 2011 | 12:55 PM
  #706  
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Originally Posted by adsoldschool
ok, my head is spinning after reading this whole post. Could someone please answer the following? I've read conflicting on these:

I live in New England, should I go with standard Redline D4 vs Racing? Concern is viscosity due to the cold.

Should I do a 3x3 all at once or is it best to do a partial drain, drive for 1-2k mi and repeat till the 3x is met?

My 06 TL has 47K mi on it. I haven't changed the fluid since I got it.
PS: "IHC" ( I know you'll see this post)...I filled up on Sunoco 93 last night, even tho it cost me $.30+/gal more, the car deserves it after all
Instead of D4, try a mixture of racing and lightweight racing. Same fluid but one is thicker, one is thinner. Do two of one and one of the other. It doesn't really matter much if you do two quarts of racing and one of lightweight or the other way around.
Old Mar 28, 2011 | 01:06 PM
  #707  
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Originally Posted by adsoldschool
ok, my head is spinning after reading this whole post. Could someone please answer the following? I've read conflicting on these:

I live in New England, should I go with standard Redline D4 vs Racing? Concern is viscosity due to the cold.

Should I do a 3x3 all at once or is it best to do a partial drain, drive for 1-2k mi and repeat till the 3x is met?

My 06 TL has 47K mi on it. I haven't changed the fluid since I got it.
PS: "IHC" ( I know you'll see this post)...I filled up on Sunoco 93 last night, even tho it cost me $.30+/gal more, the car deserves it after all
From what I got out of the thread, most people that live in the cold did 2 qts Racing and 1 qts Lightweight every fill up. I'm going to be doing this next month. I decided to go this route because my car is going to be in Syracuse for most of the year and it gets COLD up there!

But yeah, does anybody know if we should do 3x3 all at once or fill up every 1-2k miles?
Old Mar 28, 2011 | 05:28 PM
  #708  
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doesn't matter really
Old Mar 29, 2011 | 10:30 PM
  #709  
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awesome! Finally can do this!

Originally Posted by I hate cars
Instead of D4, try a mixture of racing and lightweight racing. Same fluid but one is thicker, one is thinner. Do two of one and one of the other. It doesn't really matter much if you do two quarts of racing and one of lightweight or the other way around.

You guys don't know how long i've been searching for this answer. Living in Iowa, it's 3-4 months of 20 or below. This should do fine. Gonna try this out as my car's reaching 60K this next month.
Old Mar 31, 2011 | 09:13 AM
  #710  
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Hey Innacurate, and I Hate Cars...

I posted a response to the Redline D4 thread last night but that was before I saw this thread. Here is my story:

I have a 2006 Honda Accord EXL V6 5at. Bought it in August of 09 certified preowned from Honda with 20,000 miles. By 44k miles, Honda was replacing the trans under warranty (7yr/100k) and I now have 60,000 miles (I drive a lot right)?

My rebuilt trans really doesn't show any signs of wear yet, But I have taken note since early on with this car, that the trans' in these cars have "interesting" shifting... Meaning they lag and slip when shifting (Im guessing due to the high FM in the Z1)...

I am kicking myself because in the 15k miles I've had the new trans, I haven't done a D&R.... Plan on doing it soon. My question (3) is:

1) The 3G TL and the 7G (06 in my case) Accord V6 have the same tranny right? Also, can either of you find out if the Accord cuts throttle during shifts as well? I think it does but I'm just speculating without proof.

2) Do either of you know anyone with a V6 5at 7Gen Accord using Redline Racing?

3) Lastly, I live in NY where the summers can hit above 100 degrees, and the winters can hit 0 degrees or less. Should I do the "2 qt. Racing, 1 qt. lightweight" for each D&R? Or should I do something different?

Thanks a lot and I am looking forward to your responses!

Matt
Old Mar 31, 2011 | 09:42 AM
  #711  
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Are there any group buys out there (Azine or otherwise) for Redline ATF and 3rd/4th gear sensors? If not, where are you guys finding the best prices on these?
Old Mar 31, 2011 | 09:59 AM
  #712  
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^
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/home.jsp
Old Mar 31, 2011 | 11:06 AM
  #713  
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I am hoping to get a response here for one of the two 'authorities' I hate cars & Inaccurate.

I did the 3rd & 4th pressure switches months ago and I want to switch my fluid now to a non Z1. My car has some issues shifting to 3rd and 4th, although the new switches have helped. In the previous years I've done a total of 2 drain and fills (3qt each). My car is around 77k, 05 auto TL, and I live in NJ.

What would you recommend? Seems like Red Line is a definite.

Should I just get Red Line Racing ATF (Type F)?
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=52&pcid=9

Or mix in the lightweight at 2(racing):1(lightweight) ratio?
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=137&pcid=9

From the threads it seems like mixing these two is okay? I know the lightweight has lower viscosity, but I can't find z1 ratings to compare.

Thanks,
Adam
Old Mar 31, 2011 | 11:14 AM
  #714  
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Originally Posted by AdamNJ
I am hoping to get a response here for one of the two 'authorities' I hate cars & Inaccurate.

I did the 3rd & 4th pressure switches months ago and I want to switch my fluid now to a non Z1. My car has some issues shifting to 3rd and 4th, although the new switches have helped. In the previous years I've done a total of 2 drain and fills (3qt each). My car is around 77k, 05 auto TL, and I live in NJ.

What would you recommend? Seems like Red Line is a definite.

Should I just get Red Line Racing ATF (Type F)?
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=52&pcid=9

Or mix in the lightweight at 2(racing):1(lightweight) ratio?
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=137&pcid=9

From the threads it seems like mixing these two is okay? I know the lightweight has lower viscosity, but I can't find z1 ratings to compare.

Thanks,
Adam

I don't think you can go wrong either way. But with NJ winters, the mix may be 'best'. I went with all Racing b/c I live in SC and I got a better deal just by purchasing a case of 12 then if I split it.
Old Mar 31, 2011 | 11:33 AM
  #715  
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Z1 is 7cst, "racing" is 10cst, "lightweight racing" is 4cst.
Old Mar 31, 2011 | 01:39 PM
  #716  
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Here is a previous post comparing the viscosities (click here).
Old Mar 31, 2011 | 02:59 PM
  #717  
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Pardon my 'tardness, but what does 3x3x3 mean
Old Mar 31, 2011 | 03:12 PM
  #718  
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Hey I Hate Cars and Innacurate, you guys missed my post... post 710... Bump for that I am really interested in you guys' opinion.

I actually heard from a member over on today that he did a little searching and in fact, the 06 Accord does cut throttle during shifts. So my biggest fear is moot now. Anyway, looking forward to your response(s) from my post 710.

Thanks
Old Mar 31, 2011 | 03:24 PM
  #719  
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27.... or:

3 quarts per drain and refill. 3 drain and refills with 3 quarts each gets 90ish percent of the old fluid out. 3x3
Old Mar 31, 2011 | 06:10 PM
  #720  
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bump



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