Oh ok cool... Well thanks for saving me money IHC! I'm still considering the 5 D&Rs because I have an awesome deal of $100 shipped on 15 qts!

But would you still only recommend doing four D&Rs? Because if so I may be able to knock off a few bucks and get 12 qts instead of 15. I just think $100 for 15 qts is great and would get more Z1 out. You tell me if I should do 4 or 5 D&Rs because I could go for either one.

Oh, also (If I do 5 D&Rs hypothetically)... Would 12 Racing and 3 lightweight cause shifts to be too rough when cold? Or is the logic of doing the first 4 D&Rs with Racing, and the last D&Rs with straight Lightweight the logic that will get me close to OE viscosity?

 

I wouldn't try to get 100% replacement all at once. Waste of time and money. 80 - 85 percent should be "good enough". (Besides the fact that by the drain/fill method it'S theoretically impossible to get 100%.)

I plan to do 3x3 or, maybe, 4x3, then add a 1x3 as a maint item at, say, 20 or 25 or 30 thousand mile intervals.

 

Since you have a Type-S, the cooler line method would save you money. 9 quarts max will get you 100% new fluid. It takes two people but it's very easy. I'm getting ready to do this on my car, maybe I can do a video or at least take pictures.

 

So is this a deal that other aziners can take advantage of?!

 

No sorry, its a person's personal stash... And its all he has.

 

can you explain this please? what is this process?

 

Pics would be nice. Vid, even better.

I'm a little reluctant to try it because 1) I'm not sure which hose/hoses to use and 2) I'm worried about keeping an equal fill rate.

 

The cooler line method sounds interesting. Details please!

 

Pretty sure only '07/'08 TL-S have the ATF Cooler.

 

Alright so I recently put an order in for 6 qts lightweight redline, and 3 regular redline racing ATF. My question is, why wouldnt you just completely drain all the z1 that's in there and refill with pure redline rather than introducing it slowly by the 3x3 method?

 

Because half of the fluid is trapped in the torque converter. When you drain the pan, half the fluid comes out.

 

Because when you open the drain plug all that comes out is about 3 qts. There is no way to simply drain more than that.

 

Will do. The fluid should be here today so maybe this weekend.

The fill rate was hard for me at first. It looks like it's coming out so fast that you start adding fluid as fast as you can. I always overfilled the trans by accident until I learned not to panic. You can easily keep up with the rate it's being pumped out. It takes 1.5-2 minutes to exchange all of the fluid. If it's overfilled just start it back up with the line off and let it drain. If it gets too low you'll see air bubbles coming out of the hose.

If you're not sure which line it is, stick both in a bucket. I have a short piece of metal trans line and a few feet of rubber line to extend out the factory hoses. No clamps are necessary since there's very little pressure on the line.

 

You start with a normal drain and refill. The fluid flows directionally through the trans and there's very little mixing going on.

Once you do a drain and fill, disconnect the factory cooler lines near the cooler. Extend them with more hose if you need to. Place them in a bucket. Get your funnel ready, fill plug out, and your fluid ready with the seals broken and ready to pour in.

Start the engine and begin adding fluid. If the old fluid is dark, the color of fluid coming out of the lines will go from dark to new in a second when the new fluid gets there. Once you see new fluid coming out of the lines, shut it off. Check the level to see if you're overfull. If overfull, start the engine again to get some of it out. Hook the lines back up and you're done.

It will take the initial 3 quarts of the drain and fill plus 4-5 additional quarts once the engine is running.

If the old fluid is still red and it's hard to tell when the new stuff comes out, stop after you add the 5th quart.

 

^^

What about running through the gears to move old fluid from the internal passages/torque converter?

 

It wouldn't hurt but that's a tiny amount of fluid. Under 5%. The big fluid circuits are energized even in park. You could have the car with the wheels off the ground and have someone do a quick run through the gears while the fluid is draining but it's really not worth it. You can shift it into drive and then reverse a few times which would take care of 75% of the circuits. It's just a few ounces though.

The torque convetor fluid is what's coming out when you start the engine up with the cooler line off.

 

Hey IHC... Right now I basically have 2 options.

1)Get 15qts for $100 and do 5 D&Rs
2)Get 9qts for $75 and do 3 D&Rs.

What should I do IHC (for the above reasons you gave me)?

 

roughly 300 bucks in fluid. FTL! Thanks for the quick reply's IHC and Bear

 

Honestly, for $25 more I would get all of it even if you don't use it all now.

One option might be to do a normal 3x3 all at once, then space the last two over 100 or more miles to make sure all of the crap built up is gone. After that, seal it up and you can probably go 100,000 miles before the next one especially if you add aftermarket filtration.

The next option is to get it all, do a 3x3 and sell me the rest at a slight profit lol.

 

Thanks again for the info IHC!

Lol I like the second part

 

Where are you getting that kind of deal at for so cheap???

 

That's for me to know sir

 

If sharing doesn't hurt I'd love to know more about the deal as well

We could probably do a group buy.. seems like many ppl are interested in this!! Anyone has contact with Redline want to initiate this??

 

Read the thread. Your answer is on this page.

 

I thought shift quality when cold (below freezing) was terrible (lag and then abrupt shift) with the Z1. This is actually why I was worried about switching to a higher viscosity fluid. I went with a 2:1 ratio of Redline Racing:Lightweight Racing and my shift quality when cold it much better than is was with the Z1. (I never had only Racing so I can't compare to that.)

 

Thanks for that...

I could just see the potential for people ganging up on me about this in here lol.

 

Yeah cold shifts with Z1 are almost scary. Its like your tranny is yawning and says, "Slip slip slip.... Oh wait, what was I supposed to do again? Ahhh that's right, BANG!"

 

IHC, I thought you were taking it out to 100k miles. Or are still planning on doing that after you do a full replacement via cooler line?

 

I had an oddball problem pop up on my last drain and fill which might have diluted the mostly racing fluid mixture. There's a chance I put a quart of D4 in by accident. I'll explain more once I get it figured out for sure.

 

Please update on the problem ASAP because I'm paying for my Redline Racing/Lightweight mixture on Sunday (2 days). If there are any issues you are finding with Redline... I'd like to know.

 

No issues with them at all. I just wanted to avoid posting the info prematurely because it will turn into a million questions. I'll have the answer this weekend and i'll do a full writeup. If there were any sort of issues with the fluid I would post them up asap. The last thing I want is for people to have issues because of something I suggested.

 

I really like the idea of this mod, but i just felt a little more safe running my Mobil 1 syn atf because at least i know if there is a tranny problem, at least im still covered under warranty. I will probably do this redline fluid after my warranty is done with the car.

But im sure it does shift better, faster, and crisper. But im going to be sitting on the safe side of this fence.

 

Awesome, Can't wait for the write-up. I've been waiting and following this thread for a while now. Finally decided to buy the fluids yesterday. Too bad I can't find a place with cheaper pricing, but hey it will do.

 

I understand but the odds of them even asking about the fluid are slim to none. Technically they can void the warranty for Mobil One just as easily since it's a DexIII fluid but they will never do that unless you point it out to them lol.

The car will definitely shift better on that fluid and it's much better than Z1. But all of those improvements you noticed on the Mobil One will be 200% better on the type F.

 

Alright guys. I decided to try out the Racing ATF from redline. I did a 1x3 for one week just to get a feel but I did not really feel a difference. On the 2x3 thats when I saw a difference, the shifts were NOT all that quick. I actually had a delay from 2nd to third gear and so on. That probably happened because the racing fluid is thicker. Before my 3x3 a week later I decided to drain out the fluid and change the transmission filter along with the 3rd and 4th pressure switches. Thats when the change took place! The shifts were much quicker and when I put the car on sport shift mode I cannot feel the shifts. It is amazing! There is no delay what so ever.

Majority of my driving is city. Even though it may not be much, I've been on the racing fluid for about 600 miles. I have not experienced anything bad with this fluid, its great stuff. I highly recommend it.

 

So I have done 4x3 with the first 3 having 1 lightweight and 2 Full racing- the 4th was all Racing- I have changed the pressure switches. The trans seems to really bang into gear- I have checked the level and it is good (although after I first did the 4th change it was low) = I am not sure if something is wrong and am a bit worried. I am wondering if maybe the motors mounts are going or if the full racing fluid is just causing an abrupt shift. It seemed like the shifts were quicker than before- Going into reverse from park takes about 3 long seconds. Am I overreacting?

 

Glad everyone is doing well with the racing fluid. I just did my final fill and it's getting sealed up for 100,000 miles. I ended up getting in a hurry, only 30 minutes to finish so I didn't get pictures of the flush. I ended up doing one quart of the lightweight to top it off so it's basically 6 quarts of racing, 1 quart of lightweight total. What I probably should have done differently is pre-mix a 30% mixture of the lightweight and regular and fill it with that. I nearly forgot to add the lightweight during the flush.

 

IHC I'm thinking of doing a 1x3 with lightweight since I've already done a 3x3 with the racing fluid in Nov. just to keep the fluids fresh what do you think? I have my switches too I haven't had time to change them so I figured I'd do it at the same time plus I have an extra tranny filter which I know it suggests to change them evry 12k which I think I'm at. Right now I'm in the 37k range.

 

I hope I don't have a problem like this with my 06 Accord I'm going to do 5 D&Rs on in the near future!

 

Hey IHC, (I'm sorry for the hi-jack guys), what are your thoughts on me switching my engine oil to synthetic at 62k miles? Worth it? Not worth it? Pros? Cons? (J30A5 engine)

Thanks. Again sorry for the hijack