DJANZ07

I have been saving up for quite a while now, and plan to upgrade my type-s TL. I want to do the complete exhaust starting with the RV6 pre-cats followed by the J pipe and third cat delete. The exahust I want to go with is the XLR8 resonated full cat back!! Some other mods I want to do is the AEM V2 cold air intake as well as the p2r throttle body spacer. I am considering the underdrive pully, but just the stock size lightweight replacement. As far a supension goes I want to throw on the H&R springs!! I also talked to a friend that said he knew a guy that would be able to port and polish my head!! He did say it was going to be expensive though becasue the guy is pro motor builder and he has alot of experience with v6 engines. He currently works on the pontiac GTP supercharded engines and GNX Buick engines, he said he would be willing to work on mine. I really want to do this, do you guys think that I should do this job, or do you think with the bolt on's and the right tuning I can make close to 300hp at the wheels without the head job!!! Also is there any bolt ons that I forgot to add to my list!! I use my car as a daily driver so I really dont want to set off any warning lights!!

NedShneebly

I think with every possible bolt on you would still come up just short...maybe 280 at the wheels. a guy by the handle 'gerzand' is working a full P2R PnP intake system, so look for those results soon.

In the mean time, not sure if the type-S guys can do it, but search the "Intake Manifold Spacer". It's good for a handful of Torque and some throttle response.

You'll have to read a lot about 'tuning'. The AEM FI/C, plus some other gear is the only way to go but I don't think it's worth it unless you go turbo or S/C. Haven't seen anyone try tuning with this on an NA car yet. forget about 'Hondata'...one or two guys got this tune but they don't support our car anymore.

That's about it besides stripping as much weight out of it as you feel comfortable with.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

If you have a 07 TL-S M/T and installed every bolt on you can reach 300whp. I believe Blacura had 300whp. You would want to get the following:

Exhaust - I'd recommend XLR8 J-pipe, Random Tech high flow cat or XLR8 Test Pipe, XLR8 Exhaust, and the pre-cat deletes

Air Induction - AEM V2, P2R Throttle body spacer and TB Gaskets, P2R Intake Manifold Gasket, P2R Ported Runners

Engine Parts - UR Crank Pulley

tenzingsherpa

I believe that getting 300hp is possible but like ned said u most likely won't be able to reach it with just bolt ons. u might wanna consider stroking ur car(if its been done yet) or boring (if its been done yet). i know i will be stroking my car to a 3.6 liter this coming summer and will be pushing around 280hp, and 280 torque NA with all the bolts ons including the mdx spacer. research bro, us the search button, and a side note if people dynoed using a dynojet the numbers are higher than the real value. the most accurate dyno for us is mustang dynos.

csmeance

You are going to need every single bolt on to reach your goal of 300 WHP, if anything you should aim not for #'s but good overall power. You can have 300 HP, but what does it matter if the rest of the RPM range is putting out only 200 HP or very low torque, absolutely none.

these are the mods you should do, you don't have to do them in this order either.

Intake - AEM v2 should be fine
Intake - P2R Throttle Body Spacer
Intake - Ported and Polished Throttle Body
Intake - P2R ported and Polished intake runners (or port the ones you have already)
Intake - Port and Polish job on the Intake Manifold
Engine - P2R Intake Manifold Spacers
Engine - Innovative Engine Mounts to keep the motor steady
Engine- Port and Polish/Work on the Heads
Engine- Thinner headgasket to bump up compression slightly
Engine - Lightweight Crank pulley
Engine - Extrude and hone
Exhaust - Port and Polish the Exhaust manifold and related parts
Exhaust - RV6 Pre Cat Deletes
Exhaust - XLR8 J-Pipe, though it's expensive, It'll give the best gains, esp nearly 30WTQ at 3500-4500RPM's!!!!!!
Exhaust - Hi Flow 3rd cat, or you can delete it, but you'll loose torque but gain HP.
Exhaust - XLR8 Exhaust

My Personal suggestion would be to go with the XLR8 J-pipe first, then with the pre-cat deletes, then intake, and then strengthen the rest of the car with an RSB, suspension, chassis bars, etc and then the other stuff listed.

I hate cars

It's possible of course. Probably with every bolt-on in the world without removing the heads. I'll just say this once but boost is such a better alternative. You'll get not only a big jump in hp but a huge boost in torque. The power band will be much more usable with tons more power under the curve. By the time you've added all the mods required to reach 300NA hp you could've bought the turbo kit and have over 420hp and 420lbs of torque beginning around 2,500rpm without ever removing a stock part other than the exhaust.

Is this guy with "Turbo People"?

05_NBP_TL

iTrader: (1)

Would there be any problems running a 70mm TB, pnp intake manifold, pnp intake runners, and running 03-05MDX spacer on NA motor.

Im going a similar route...already have a few bolt on mods(pre cats, j pipe, 3rd cat delete, custom exhaust, UR pulley, CAI, tb spacer)

Just wanted to know with the extra parts, will a tune be needed in the future to adjust air/fuel ratio? Also i dont plan on boosting, just wanting to add a little more "GO" to it

Sonnick

Blackura reached 294whp before the HFC and was 5AT. You are 6 speed so should definitely be able to reach the 300whp mark, dyno dependent. I doubt on a Mustang dyno you will reach 300whp. With that said, csmeance makes a great point, it's not PEAK hp/tq, but USABLE hp/tq throughout the RPM band that makes the difference.

I hate cars

Which is why the track is so much more important than dyno numbers. Dynos show what it's capable of. The track shows what it will actually do.

NedShneebly

dude, sell the bolt ons and get the turbo. it will be a very rare and select crowd for a while and I can't imagine how insane the car will. torque is the biggest benefit of the turbo...bolt on are torque averse with the j-series.

tenzingsherpa

agreed^^^ buy the turbo, however i don't know how reliable it is but seems to be very promising. im planning on seeing what the first production line of turbo tls will produce, and most important for me is the reliability. if you plan on keeping the car for a long time then buy the turbo, if not start searching for another car.

Bender

buy a faster car?

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

Believe the turbo will bolt on after the precats..... Soooo all you have to do is get precat deletes for now then wait for the turbo

Get urself an aem f/ic in the meantime... Get it wired up

Then get an air fuel gauge in there

Then as soon as the turbo is available slap it on. You daily drive it so run no more than 8psi...

I agree with the fact that all the money spent on boltons is a waste when the turbo is the cheapest

Hell, you can get the catback also as you could rock that w/ the turbo... You'd just want to run 3" to the y pipe just to leave you w/ some added gains


Bolt-ons $ > turbo $

Opel

Turbo kit deletes the cats completely, so spending money on cat deletes is a waste since you wont be needing them anymore if you get the turbo... in place of cats or cat deletes you will now have a 3" downpipe
(i wont disclose the whole design of the kit) but buying cat deletes is useless and you won't be able to use them with the turbo

Also the turbo kit comes with F/IC...hell, since we're on the subject, it comes with everything that you need. Only thing youll have to do is, for the sake of your motor and make more power...like you said...a nice 3" custom catback.
Downpipe will reach and bolt up to ur current catback, also deleting the Jpipe

tenzingsherpa

or u could get paul to make u a m90 eaton supercharger!!! i believe his whole setup cost about 3900 dollars? ^^
competch supercharger M60 < Pauls Monster M90 supercharger!!!
but be prepared for a decrease in gas mileage from a supercharger cause it is working all the time. if you set the turbo to spool at higher rpms u should be able to keep ur gas mileage the same as it is now non-FI. then when u hit the high rpms the turbo will bring the HEAT!!!!! SO THUS TURBO > SUPERCHARGER!! just elighnening u on options bro.

indecisivefool

I know you can reach 300whp without a 3.6
My car has the stock block and makes about 290whp
a 3.5 will and should make 290-300whp with the right set-up

I will be doing a write-up this winter about my 2010 street/stock set-up which should run 12.60 ALL-MOTOR and 12.1 on spay maybe 11s (65shot). this set-up will have a 3.5 with hopefully 325whp my only problem is the ecu tunning which haltech might be my solution

tenzingsherpa

So most likely with ur type s 3.5 it is possible cause the 3.5 build and 3.6 build that paul does makes close to 300 hp and more importantly close to 300 torque. keep us posted on ur progress man. looking forward to how it turns out. i know a member with a tl base is wanting to make 300hp NA, but since urs in types s u have greater chance in succeding. good luck

DJANZ07

I will start off with the bolt ons !!!

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

yeah I am not to familiar with the design of the turbo kit, just guessed they had it that way... so if its off the head to a collector then a turbo that works good really

I hate cars

The banks merge into the turbo so in effect the turbo is the j-pipe. Then it's a single downpipe from the turbo to the rest of the exhaust.