So I have another thread in which I was having a sticking clutch peddle. Had the dealer replace both Master & Slave cylinders with fresh manual transmission fluid flush/fill (obviously).

So seems to have fixed clutch pedal stick out of hard acceleration (1st and 1-2 shift) in 95% of cases. The dealer's head tech said that he felt some clutch slippage. I do now since I wasn't accelerating hard in recent 2.5 years due to clutch pedal sticking during hard acceleration (how demeaning!) due to not wanting to pony the $$$ for it since it was just an inconvenience.

Naturally, I got a quote from the stealer which is in the neighborhood of $1800 for a full OEM clutch assembly install. I immediately called a reputable nationwide transmission place and found they could do for a little under $1100 using Genuine Honda Parts which includes machining of the Flywheel.

I also asked for a quote for a "Racing Clutch". He never gave me an exact price but said it would be around twice as much. So maybe around $2000 or so.

What to do? I don't currently have mods but since I need to replace my clutch anyways... Oh BTW, the transmission guy has 35 years of experience and had guessed that my car had 95K when talking on the phone. Mine actually has 118K and he said that I have done very well with the original clutch.

I talked with a buddy of mine that has had many performance mods (e.g. Firebird with 18 PSI putting out more than 500 at the wheels). He suggested that I NOT do a racing clutch as the feel is totally different and said that I should stick with the OEM replacement.

If I do add a supercharger or turbos or do any other radical mods for performance, will I regreat doing the OEM?

I know you all probably have a lot of experience with this. I am the original owner of a 2006 TL 6-speed and with 118K miles.

Any advice? One more thing, this is a daily commuter that I drive 65 miles daily round-trip to work which includes being on the clutch during rush hour. It is not and probably will never be (never say never ) a dedicated track car...

Thanks in advance...

 

The real advantage to going with an aftermarket set up is getting away from the stock dampened flywheel set up and going to the conventional solid FW and sprung clutch disc. The stock clutch and FW setup is very strong and held perfectly for me with the supercharger running 320+WHP. I am running a 6 puck race disc with the stock FW and pressure plate and it takes getting use to especially in traffic and doesn't like fast engagements.

That said I would look into buying the stock clutch parts separately and having a local Honda/ Acura shop install it.

 

Go OEM

 

go oem/luks. Someone selling a clutch on v.6.p for 150. All you would need is the flywheel. Also do the slave valve delete.

 

One advantage of an aftermarket clutch is reducing the rotating mass of the flywheel.

The other consideration is as you mentioned about going FI. My stock setup would slip like crazy off hard off the line but was fine if I took it easy at first and then really got into it. When I removed my stock unit, it wasn't burnt at all. Not sure if it's because of the SAC function but that went away with the "conventional" clutch.

Speaking of SAC, you'll lose that and your pedal height will change as the clutch wears so you'll have to adjust it.

It is likely that you'll have a different feeling clutch and with a lighter flywheel will be slightly more prone to stalling, but it's really not that bad. I'm running a springless setup and it's no where near as bad as I thought it would be, but it's not for the faint at heart. A pedal travel of 1/4" is the optimum setting.

 

i love aftermarket clutch.

really hate the oem clutch being "linear" in terms of engaging.

i prefer on/off of stiff aftermarket clutches. (takes some getting used to, but once your left foot is used to it, there's no downside compared to oem)

 

LUK makes the OEM clutch kit and flywheel. You can buy them in LUK boxes for half the price of the Honda/Acura parts.

PS: They say never to machine a dual mass flywheel. If your mechanic says to machine it anyways, you may want to look into getting a different mechanic.

LUK 08-047 ~$160: https://www.google.com/search?q=08-0...w=1205&bih=561



LUK DMF062 ~$260: https://www.google.com/search?q=08-0...w=1205&bih=561

 

What was that thing that you had to check on the LUK clutches before installing? I remember reading it somewhere. Something about a spring?

 

its call the preset. I made the thread. you can search for here on here.

 

I got the same set up as kn and it's a night and day difference in everything, clutch feel, travel, and acceleration. If you're looking to spend 2k try to bump it up a notch on price and get a twin disc clutch. I'm not sure if you still can but I'd definitely look into it. Smoking e46 m3's, regular cts all day!

 

Guy sounds like he's bsing you. In my experience a "race clutch" ie: act, fidanza, clutchmasters are generally the same if not cheaper then oem from the dealer clutches. Don't know how the guy could say your $1100 clutch job just turned into $2200 from getting a non oem clutch. Only misunderstanding is maybe when you said race clutch he went with the most expensive race clutch for your car which I'm sure could be expensive. You should pick an aftermarket company and get a quote.

 

No BS. We're running Tilton twin disc setups. They are not cheap.

 

Who's we? And how much tq you putting out? Number one issue that most people run into is using a completely unnecessary clutch. A twin disc is an extreme over kill for a tl even if they have a couple mods. Unless you're running a nasty turbo or something no need.

 

probably running J&R turbo with J&R megasquirt. Or Comptech superchargers??

 

2nd stage clutch is the best

 

Yeah, KN_TL and a few others are running the J&R turbo kit.
making horsies somewhere in the 500s.

 

Why are we recommending a twin-disc race clutch to a guy with a bone stock TL?

BTW: This car is BS when it comes to the clutch department. Any aftermarket clutch & flywheel will cost an arm & a leg. Even a basic clutchmasters stage 1 is $1300 because you have to replace the flywheel (non dual-mass). LUK is best as it's OEM AND inexpensive for only $150. And if you haven't abused the car, then the stock flywheel should be fine.

 

well thread did ask "Performance Clutch or To OEM Clutch" just laying down options

 

Yup. More folks need to RTFSM

 

Doesn't matter how mil hp it puts down, clutches are rated by the tq it can handle. What's a 500 who tl put down tq wise? Low 300's?

 

somewhere in the 400s.

as you know, horsepower is an extrapolation of torque applied over time.

 

For you I would say go OEM but find someone to put it in for cheaper. 1800-2k is not even considerable imo. As HI Speed said the OEM can take some abuse and by the time you have a car that is over powering the stock then upgrade from there.

 

Yes I know that. I didn't realize they were that close in tq to hp. Figured it was a normal Honda where there was a substantial drop from hp to tq. That's nice to know. I remembered seeing a guys 400 whp s2k with low 200 ft lbs of tq. Could probably almost get away with a factory clutch on that type of set up. Lol.

Either way a twin disc is overkill in this case. Lol

 

I think everyone who has a turbo installed has the twin disc setup. As I said, I was over driving the capacity of the oem clutch and have aspirations of going into the internals, so I invested in the the best clutch at the time.

The OP said "If I do add a supercharger or turbos or do any other radical mods for performance, will I regreat doing the OEM?".

Just giving him all the options.

 

Susupraru, I'm actually running n/a. Am I near torque capacity, no, not even close. The clutch is rated at over 700tq and I'm not even halfway but that's not why I got it. I got this clutch cause it'll give me the best acceleration out of all aftermarket clutches and flywheels. This clutch including the flywheel is 25lbs give or take a few and also has a lower rotational mass because the clutch is smaller in diameter than oem.

 

It's your money do what you want with it. All I was stating is a twin disc is an extreme overkill and not needed for 95% of the people running basic bolt ons and double the price compared to some name brands like clutch masters.

 

I'm guessing that if your car is stock after 6 years, then you probably won't be needing a race clutch. Go with a new OEM clutch.

I have a brand new OEM clutch that I may not need...

 

I have a stage 3 clutch with OEM flywheel and love it. Wish I could have went with the lightweight flywheel but there was too much downtime to switch over the gear ring.

 

Ring gear issues have been resolved long ago.........

 

I called XLR8 and Clutch Masters directly and for my 07 TL-S I was told that the gear rings on the flywheel were for the 3.2L motor and that I would have to send out my old flywheel and have them swap over the gear ring...

 

Ah, Yes. Based on the number of used type-s 6mt ecu's out there (none). It's not surprising that it's not an off the shelf item.

 

okay so my 04's clutch just gave out at 115k miles.. its not completely stock, i have PCD's, and ill have a jpipe and 60shot nitrous setup on it by this summer. would you guys still say OEM over a stage 1 spec clutch? i abuse the car pretty hard, pulls, clutch drops, power shifts, etc. and i want something thats gonna last another 80k miles.. will oem of stage 1 last with that kind of abuse?

 

If you're going to step up, get something that will handle your power. The power you listed will hold just fine depending how you will use that clutch. If it was me, I'd keep it on stock until the clutch just gives up on itself. You never know how long it can last, as the stock unit is pretty strong as some SC'rs TL in the 300+ whp have been on their sstock set for a long time before some gave up. If you do decide to upgrade, go with ClutchMasters FX100.