tidus888

but won't it be kind of lose? with the whole unit being held by that plastic piping

ckya

interesting...is the mounting bracket touching the body? cuz it looked like even if i remove the vibration mount, the bracket on the CAI would touch the body and vibrate with the engine...did u have any problem like that? i guess i'm just gonna put some sort of foam between the bracket and the body...i really don't go through all the hassle to cut the intake

sandiegodrive

No it wasn't touching the body of the car...UNITL...I removed the intake again to tighten a clap then it touched. So yes foam would work in this case.

blokhead

I installed both of mine at the same time and had a bitch of time installing the isolator. But it is possible to install. I put the rubber connector onto the intake as far as I could get it, then I just mounted the intake to throttle body and pushed it on as far as to the left as possible, left the clamps loose, pulled the intake as far forward as I needed to get the isolator in, installed the mount, then pushed the intake to left as far as I could again and was able to get it angled onto the mount. It did take a few tries, but I eventually got it.

It was a little difficult, but not impossible. Don't worry, you aren't going to bend or break the intake or the throttle body. Also when I put it on, I didn't put it all the way flush, so the bolt was in the mount all the way, I only went about a 1/4 of the way into the groove on intake, but that was due to me worrying about the intake hitting the edge of the body metal where it bends down to go into the hole in the fender well.

By the way it is

eh? spec

Well here it is. Only took less than 30 minutes. The rubber collar that connects the pipe and the throttle body doesn't have the gap in it anymore which is why it looks like it has that bulge in it... The intake pipe is pretty much right against the throttle body. Good mod. Easy to do.







Here is the view from the back of it.


I still got the mounting nut on too... wasn't too difficult... just move the intake pipe around and it'll go on just fine...

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

You should still be able to install it with the vibra mount. I have done them and they have been fine. You could also cut 1" off the intake on the TB side, not the filter side, to make it easier.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

I PMed you back on 11/21 at 4:54.

csmeance

got it yesterday night.

TylerT

iTrader: (1)

My spacer comes in today, excellent .

It seems I always order on Wednesday / Thursday ... always waiting 5+ days to receive packages heh.

lusid

Can you notice any low end torque with the P2R?

Thanks!

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

Yes see the dyno graph on the first page.

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

Here are the pictures you requested. Sorry for the delay; I was under the weather last week.

[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

The Dougler

iTrader: (1)

has anyone noticed during the install that there was a amount of black soot in the throttle body when they removed it? I had to give mine a little cleaning while it was out and was wondering if anyone else came across this.

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

Yes I did! I did the same and did the seafoam treatment also. My car runs like brand spanking new with alot of kick!

The Dougler

iTrader: (1)

I just cleaned the TB, and it seems to have fixed most of my rough idle issue, I think when i get the IM gasket i'm going to clean the whole IM and TB with carb cleaner to get her running fantastic. for some reason i'm scared of seafoam, i know lots of members here have had nothing but success with it but i'm still wary.

want2xl

I just finished installing the P2R, and I have a few notes:

I was able to use the mounting rubber brace, but my AEM is at a slight angle.
Initially, the car felt better, but I noticed a slight whining noise from 2200-2800, which would seem like a vacuum leak. I rechecked everything, and I move the temperature sensor to back on the TB. Now I have a check engine light on for some reason. I unplugged the sensor and reconnected it. I still have the whining noise, but I can not duplicate it in park (revving the motor). It seems like I can only get it to occur while driving. No difference in noise if I am in different gears.

To correctly do this mod, I would recommend 1" be taken off the AEM, then it would be a better fit. I will continue to monitor the noise, performance, etc...
If things don't work out, I will remove it and post it for sale. I am a little bummed that it didn't work out as well for me.

want2xl

My other observation is that the groove on the spacer and the gaskets do not match, maybe I installed it incorrectly, but it seems pretty straight forward. BTW, I still have the check engine light on.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

kjelly

Want2xl, it's just a matter of flipping the spacers to match the groove of the metal piece. I first installed incorrectly and knew it looked weird. Once I flipped the "plastic" spacers, it perfectly matched the metal spacer. If this doesn't make sense, think of the spacers having a front and a back. You may have a back facing forward...

sandiegodrive

It'll go away, usually less then 24 hours.

want2xl

Thanks guys.
The check engine light went away, but I still have the whin, I assume it's because the gaskets are not matching the groove exactly. I assumed that the gaskets were symetrical. The groove on the gaskets/spacer are both in the "UP" position (off by 5mm or so), but I will pull them and turn them around (horizontally, grove still up", to see if they match.
The whin is still present, but hopefully it will go away once the gasket matches.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

This will occur over time. The deposit will eventually cause your butterfly to stick open a little causing idling issues. It is good to clean this area in and around the TB butterfly from time to time.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

I don't recall any whine being present but it's hard to tell what you're hearing unless I were there. I would check to make sure you have no vacuum leaks.

want2xl

Guys,

My wife (I know that everyone will call me a wussy) is not down with me keeping the unit on the car do to warranty issues. I travel a lot, and if she needs to get warranty work, then I won't be home to remove the unit.
I just bought it, it's been on the car less than one week, and I need to sell it. $90 delivered (or make an offer) for an almost new spacer, gaskets, bolts, and plug. It's in mint condition.

Just like previous people have posted, the low end torque is vastly improved.

Please pm me or email me at want2XL@yahoo.com. Paypal, check, or money order.
Canadian orders we can work on something due to import tax.

blkaspec

i had no problems installing both, it is a little tight, but i was able to do the install without cutting the intake or removing the "rubber mount" that bolts over the wheel. the vacuum port is a little close to the black box, but i really didnt have any issues.


and as far as the gaskets go, there is a front and a back, so if they dont line up with the spacer then they need to be switched around.

as far as whats up, and whats down, how do you guys know the groove is suppose to be on the top?????

i first installed it down, then flipped it over because i read it was suppose to be groove side up, but the directions never said which way it was suppose to be.

THTL

iTrader: (2)

i know this seem like a dumb question, but do you guys think it worth it to get this spacer. I need something new to do to my car.hahahahhah.

joed40

YES in deed! I felt the difference as far as low end response. Also a great Xmas gift to one's self.

THTL

iTrader: (2)

hmmmm. I wonder why Want2xl is having problems with his.

The Dougler

iTrader: (1)

Cause his WIFE thinks he's going to mess up the car, and he won't lay down the law for her.

HONgDA

iTrader: (1)

This is a great mod for the money. I have it with the stock air box without the resonator and no problems and check engine light.

TylerT

iTrader: (1)

Make sure the gaskets are lined up with the spacer, the white plug is tightened all the way down, and all of the original OEM gasket on the throttle body is removed.



When you say the check engine light is on, don't you mean the orange emissions light? Take the negative off the battery and let it sit for 20 minutes. Your car threw out a reading when it wasn't installed properly; when it's installed correctly it should go away.

Bearcat94

Can this be true??

Can anybody explain why this poster felt these differences?

Regardless of whether there is any performance difference, if you install with the groove down, does it matter?

Mine arrives tomorrow. Install is Friday or Saturday. I need to know this stuff - lol.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

There are some pictures of the spacer installed throughout this thread. I know page 10 has a few pics.

Bearcat94

Done.

Thanks to sandiegodrive for the video - invaluable help for the newbie.

FWIW - I did have the CEL on start up. I assume that's from unplugging the sensor on to of the Throttle Body. It went away after, say, 20 or 30 miles of driving.

Initial impression is that the Throttle is more responsive - almost like it's more sensitive. The car does seem to build revs a bit faster.

HP gains? . I don't know if the 4 or 5 HP measured can really be *easily* felt. BUT, every little bit helps.

Also FWIW ( :coughcough: want2xl :coughcough: ) my time, tools and parts were explained to my wife in the following way, "I was cleaning the air filter and I dropped a nut. As soon as I find it, I'll have this back together in no time".

xcelir8TL

The P2R install on my 2004 TL went very smooth. I spent more time scraping off the darn stock gasket than the entire removal, etc. If anyone is interested, below is my modified short stack pipe. It's all 3rd party parts except for the aluminum tube that happens to have a Weapon R sticker on it. I'll go AEM this spring.

xcelir8TL

Did you get your "whine" straightened out? I notice with my P2R properly installed (see my other post), that I have a very high pitched noise on acceleration - but it doesn't last the whole time, just partial.

I thought it was a dirty TB, so I cleaned it again, and nope, didn't go away.

I'm thinking it might be the air passing over the NOS screw hole with the white plastic screwed in (I could only screw mine in 3/4) so that's why I think it makes a high pitche whistle sound. Again, this is only a guess.

Can someone tell me what the threading is on the P2R so I can get a replacement screw to replace the plastic one I received? It had a weird square on the end and I used pliers to twist it in, but in my opinion that was crap as it wasn't a standard (or what I thought is standard) fitting instead of a HEX for a socket like I see others have.

EXCELLERATE - IF YOU READ THIS, can you help me out with a new plastic fitting?

Thanks!

Bearcat94

I think he pulled his and sold it (or is selling it).

Good guess on the whistle - makes a lot of sense. I though I noticed one too, but only the 1st day - figured it was my imagination or something else. Since the first, I've had the radio going and haven't noticed the whistle.

ACTROS

iTrader: (7)

Josh any info on the IM spacer? Specs? Pics?

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

xcelir8TL it's a 1/8" NPT plug.

ACTROS P2R is making it but I don't have any specs or pics of it yet. To be honest it's pretty similar to the 2nd gen TL-S one except for one spot.

BrianC636

It would be nice if the IMS was thicker like the Outlaw Engineering one.

Bearcat94

Thickness doesn't matter, Heat Capacity does.