I know theres been threads about nitrous and I've read a lot of them but sometimes they're old and I'm hoping there have been advances between when they were written and now.. I'm just looking for someone that has a nitrous system set up on their tl to talk to and get a little information/advice from them..

so please, if you have a nitrous system let me know.. id love to learn from you guys that have them

Also, I've been looking on google and on this forum and I seem to be struggling to find the answer, but how much hp and tq can our stock internals and everything handle? I have an 04 6spd, I hear people saying it can handle only around 280whp and other people saying it can handle upwards of 400whp with just a new clutch.. anyone know a right answer? also failing to find WTQ numbers!

Im sure both of these have been addressed somewhere, I just haven't had the luck of finding them.. please point me in the right direction!

 

Pretty sure Libert69 had ~400 hp on his stock automatic (turbo) before he had his motor rebuilt (and manual swap) for higher compression and more boost. Don't quote me on this; I don't remember how much power he had when he finally switched trannies and had the motor built, but the stock engine will handle plenty of power.

And Inaccurate has a nitrous system in his car, check some of his posts. He knows his shit.

 

There's more info on boost than nitro. I guess you could get a ballpark based on the boost numbers.

 

400? so our rods arent the weak link? what would be the first to go, on an AT id say the transmission but on a MT what would be first besides the clutch?

ill have to contact him, i read so many of his threads.. hes one of the few people who knows what hes talking about

 

Innacurate doesn't have forced induction, only nitrous.

 

With enough power, yes, the rods will give. Which is why he had a new motor built. At this point (well over 500 whp), the weak link is the transmission (4th gear IIRC) and the axles. Read through the turbo thread if you want to know where the weak points are with adding power. I don't think you'll have to worry about it with a conservative nitrous system (could be wrong, NOT an expert).

 

Nitrous gives the worst powerband possible; worse than a big turbo. Go look at some nitrous dyno sheets, the huge immediate increase in torque is ridiculous. The only advantage is its low cost.

Personally, I was very interested in Inaccurate's nitrous build. I believe he was trying to design a progressive system (multiple stages) to smooth out the powerband. It would have been neat if he completed it; good progressive systems cost thousands of dollars retail.

If the new flashpro had nitrous control, I would probably change my attitude. Rpm triggers and window switches are plain silly.

 

How much the stock internals can take is a matter of cylinder pressure not boost level. Of course this has to be detonation free. That's why many supercharged guys believed the engine would only take around 300hp due it's primitive engine management which pinged like crazy. Bert's stock engine took 400hp no problem because it had good engine management and knock was monitored. There are several reasons why nitrous can be rougher on your engine than a turbo but one is the instant cylinder pressure spike and that cylinder pressure can be even greater when it's triggered at too low of an rpm. You can minimize the problem with a progressive shot and make sure to use a window switch.

Again, it's cylinder pressure/ horsepower not boost level that determines where the internals give up. If there's any detonation and its not being monitored the resulting spike in cylinder pressure will cause things to blow up from detonation way before too much hp.

 

nitro/meth

 

i love this forum for this exact reason, people dont rip on you but instead help and point you in the right direction.. i read other forums all the time where people just get destroyed for no reason, thanks guys. ill pm inaccurate and see if i can get him to give me a little advice.

gwiffer, i know the powerband is horrible, but the idea that you can have 30 or 70 or 100 hp at the flick of a switch always fascinated me. It's just something i want to do while im still young and semi reckless because i know later in life ill never do it. and as you said, it is also much cheaper, i dont have any desire or funds to put boost in my car, so the next best thing in my opinion is nitrous.

besides, here in cleveland, i dont know a single person that has nitrous, the wow factor alone would make it worth it to me.. having something that everyone thinks only exists in movies haha.

aznboi, i did a lot of research on meth kits and i still am very foggy on how to set all of this up to run together.. i need someone whos done it to help me out here

 

It is only viewed as a cheaper mod if you do not do it correctly. done correctly it can be fairly expensive. if you do it on the cheap you will just have more expensive repairs in the long run

 

^...Yeah, what he said

 

Ive been working for a few months on this one-off direct port setup for my 3G TL-S. Will be running a 200 shot this season. Who says Ohio doesnt have shit?

 

Inspiration! !!! Your battery is small!

 

Everyone seems to be running pretty big shots of nitrous from any thread I find... I want to run a pretty low shot wet system, no tune(no viable tuning options for the tsx v6), safe, reliable, on my daily. Any pointers? How much is safe... haha I know I'll need a knock monitor
mod list: Precats, crank pulley, jpipe, sri, catback

 

also Read alot of inaccurate threads btw... I will be honest that is a bit too extensive for me I am looking for a simpler set up.

 

Window switch, wide band, fuel pressure safety switch, data logger are big things to have.

 

I briefly ran a 35 and then a 50 shot on mine. I might put the 35 shot back on. I don't race the TL but there are times I wish it had just a little extra. Plus a 35 shot and a 10lb bottle last just about forever.

Any amount is dangerous if done wrong. Even a tiny 35 shot, if it triggers by accident at 2,500rpm, the torque increase can be over 60lbs at that low of an rpm and journal bearings don't like lots of torque at low rpms. You're also putting 35hp worth of air into the engine and that's more than enough to severely lean it out and cause detonation if the fuel fails to get there. Do the same thing with a 100 shot at the same rpm you're talking over 200 additional lbs of torque. Accidentally do it lower than that and the torque numbers go up exponentially. At 1,500rpm a 35 shot can give 120lbs of torque. In reality the stall speed is around 2,000, maybe a bit higher but you get the point. Use a window switch.

The key is to use the safeties mentioned above. It's good to monitor fuel pressure, AFR, etc but if you can only monitor one thing, monitor knock. The other things mentioned are monitored mostly to make sure it doesn't knock but knock is the bottom line, the most important by a long shot.

If you just want a little extra power, try a 35 shot. If it's not enough, move up to a 50 shot. Just be careful because just like boost it becomes addictive and you always want more.

Keep in mind we already have a high compression ratio and it's not direct injected so you have a car that's already prone to pinging. Make sure to start out easy, keep it on the rich side. Meth injection will give you a margin of safety or a way to run a larger shot. If you're not into racing and just want a little extra like I did, you might be surprised at what a 35 shot will do. Due to the additional torque you will want to run a GOOD 30wt or a cheap 40wt. The higher in the rpm range you trigger it, the less important it is to run a thicker oil but a 30wt is always recommended.

 

You obviously haven't wandered into Ramblings yet

 

Gerzand who makes that distribution block?

 

I had it made by a friend

 

damn... ok.

 

@Gerzand:

What fuel are you running in your wet system, just tank fuel? water/meth?

Clean setup btw!

 

Would he make any more and how much?

Also how much money would you say you have into your nitrous setup?

 

Race gas mix @ 104 octane. I've got the hookup locally. I wouldnt expect others to do a high compression build like mine due to the cost of race fuel, so stick with 91/93 if you're stock compression depending on whats available to you. A meth kit will be added if needed, but that is doubtful due to the cooling properties of the direct port setup.

I have a couple grand in the setup between the nitrous and fuel systems. Thats not counting other supporting tuning capabilities

 

Yeah, people need to know that it isn't very cheap to run a proper nitrous system.

If the need arises, would you run straight methanol or a water/methanol mix (50/50)?

Does the MS3 control the nitrous progressively? I've been looking at a lot of single-stage nitrous dynos and the powerband is super goofy.

 

mix, and yes it is capable