KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I don't know if you care but I was just looking at the Tilton site and they've changed a lot. The link I found my discs on no longer exists and the pdf of the new discs shows just the 4 puck design. So it looks like you got what they make now.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

so who exactly is using this clutch right now?

this thing is so temperamental lol...jerky 1st and 2nd gear SOMETIMES...cant seem to find the best way to drive with it. slipping it seems to help but its a PITA

any advice?

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I'd say pick up a factory slave with the flow valve and try it.

Alternatively, you could pick up a Tilton flow control valve (expensive little bugger @ approx $160) that has 2-3 different orifices to tune the rate. You would need to patch in an -3an line.

But as bmeyer said, is this at the cost of your clutch....

I've been doing some reading on this clutch and it's made to do hard launches and is not intended for street driving. I may end up getting something different if it is indeed that hard to drive. Some refer to startup as 'mini-launches', allowing people to get ahead of you so you can do so at traffic lights.....

libert69

iTrader: (7)

if i shift at a low rpm, 2300 and below from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd, it can shift rather smoothly (without bogging). on the flip side...shifting above 4500 is smoother then shifting in the 2500-3000 range.

im also getting random misfires mostly during low speed light acceleration. ive read on various forums that tiltons lw flywheel can cause the p0300 random misfire due to crank noise.

misfires are such a bitch to track down. maybe my .019 gap has something to do with it

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I'm curious how people with this clutch initially adjusted it.

The instructions say to determine the release point by spinning the tire then set a stop a quarter inch further...yikes!!!

I welded a threaded channel to my pedal that will hit near the existing rubber piece on the firewall.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

really wish i could help here but i didnt make the adjustments.

pearlUA7

Alright guys. What did everyone do bout the torque bolts? And along with that question, which one could it be "te" towards the flywheel or back to back? 3.5 and 3.2 bolts have the same part number so I'm not sure now they would differ. Plate, washer, bolt has a clearance issue with this disc. Gonna trim the bolts and add extra thread so the bolt doesn't shank out. Now if I do back to back, the first friction plate will have less than 2mm's of wear before the torque bolts start running into the rivets in the disc. If "te" faces the flywheel, it'll have 4-5mm's. What should I do!?!?!

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Seems like the flywheel specs are different lately. I didn't have any problem with the stock bolts.

Here are the instructions for the new pack.

http://tiltonracing.com/sites/defaul...isc%20Pack.pdf

pearlUA7

Just an update, she's still running great. How's everybody else holding up? Libert? KN? Anyone open it back up just to inspect?

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Mine is running fine as well. Found that minimal pedal travel adjustment resulted in the smoothest shifting and engagement. With the HRB it's almost stock like except for the occasional chatter. Rev matching is VERY important.

If funds and time allow, I may be going into internals this winter and will be looking at the clutch at that point.

pearlUA7

Anyone noticing any disc rattle when the clutch is engaged? I'm hearing a rattling sound around 2800-3500. I can hear it most during deceleration, it's hard to tell because of rasp. When I was running the stock clutch it also made noise during the same range but it was more like a squishy suction sound.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I get a lot of rattle while it's disengaged but never while engaged.

pearlUA7

I won't know till I pull out the clutch. It's either plate rattle or a hole in the j pipe, those are my only two options I can think of. I remember way back when someone had only one plate working while the other plates splines were stripped, I know that was incorrectly installed and mine was not but I'm trying to find that post just for information purposes....... That clutch post was under either the ecu or turbo thread which if anything a year ago was posted on those two threads, it's lost in hundreds of pages. Who was it kn? Was it pass, Libert can't remember!

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

It was libert69. They had the discs oriented incorrectly. I don't know if it was that one disc was bring used, I just recall them eating up the splines on one disc.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

no noise for me either while the clutch is engaged. disengaged does cause a light rattle but only noticeable when going into first gear.

well, technically the discs were not installed incorrectly. the flywheel was machined incorrectly and the spacer (i think thats what its called) on the back of the flywheel was too thick.

too solve the problem, we flipped the discs in order to have the splines on both discs make full contact. everything works now

pearlUA7

Would a bad master cylinder if driven enough eventually cause slipping? Driven about 200 miles with this master cylinder and now my clutch feels like it beginning to fail. There is absolutely no fluid loss, checked and checked. The rubber volume plunger thing is not elongated and fluid level. I have re bled the system twice already. Anyone else daily driving this clutch? I've driven at least 20k miles. Right now my to do's are first to order the tilton HRB kit. Worried with the slipping though, I've search but haven't found anything. Anyone hear of tilton twin clutch prematurely failing? I remember hearing something bout excessive disc wear, could it be that?

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I have heard of people ripping the friction material off the discs, but I thought it was more prone to the older ones with more segments like I have. I only have a limited number of miles on mind but it's fine.

pearlUA7

just re read the catalog and the 4 puck have a higher wear rate. Does everyones flywheel look like mine or are there minor differences? im curious bout trying ceramic. the measurements are close and might bolt right up to the flywheel. eventually gonna call tilton for more info. also ive searched around quite a bit and its looking like tilton is no good for longevity.

pearlUA7

*carbon not ceramic

pearlUA7

It was fun while it lasted (not long enough for daily driving) but it's coming out and getting replaced with cm lw fly and their stage one clutch. Also installing a rsx omni power mc, ss lines etc.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

What happened?