Burning Brakes
^^not at all look at it this way were doing it in a 3-4 month time frame most company with proper funding takes anywhere from 6 months to year if were lucky ,but stay tuned we will have it up pretty soon and we want to r&d what ever we sell so it's tried and proven ,this way when its released it's time to plug and play without any major issues ..
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Pass427,
When can we place an order, I have the money. Hopefully it will produce good gains for the TL-S. If you need a TL-S to test, let me know. I' m in Tampa Florida.
When can we place an order, I have the money. Hopefully it will produce good gains for the TL-S. If you need a TL-S to test, let me know. I' m in Tampa Florida.
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i think he meant the wait since the car came out. hondata really dropped the ball. u may be making a lot of money if u can run this thing in civics/tegs/ and other swapped cars
94 DC4 RS LSV/Turbo
it is stated on first page that it will
Quote:
When can we place an order, I have the money. Hopefully it will produce good gains for the TL-S. If you need a TL-S to test, let me know. I' m in Tampa Florida.
You can place the order now. Many of us already have down payments or more applied. Rodney is a small shop doing great things and would likely appreciate it.Originally Posted by spade0698
Pass427,When can we place an order, I have the money. Hopefully it will produce good gains for the TL-S. If you need a TL-S to test, let me know. I' m in Tampa Florida.
There were 3 of us who had thousands paid to him for the turbo kit while it was being developed and he came through as he said. I totally trust him.
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Damn, how'd I miss that?Originally Posted by stillhere153
it is stated on first page that it will
Instructor
I tried to place an order for the programmable ECU and ported intake runners but the shipping quote isn't working. Send me a PM with Your pay pal info....Thanks. Wayne
Quote:
Shoot him an emailOriginally Posted by spade0698
I tried to place an order for the programmable ECU and ported intake runners but the shipping quote isn't working. Send me a PM with Your pay pal info....Thanks. Wayne
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The only one of its kind in the world will cost ya, but fucq it I want one. Im sick of this damn TL being a constant retard with my performance, Im about to burn it and call my insurance company so someone tell me where I can get one of these ECU's.
Burning Brakes
^^ spike i promise you'll love the car once you get it tuned I'm deeply in love with these Tl couldnt ask for anything else ,email me and I'll give you any info you need and remember for all those just want a simple nitrous setup this ecu can control that also a big plus ...
Email tl20046speed@yahoo.com
Email tl20046speed@yahoo.com
www.colradodetail.com
Thats awesome..... Must of missed it but how much is this going to cost?
Will test be done on a bone stock TL-S no mods or bolts on's? a before and after?
Will test be done on a bone stock TL-S no mods or bolts on's? a before and after?
Instructor
Really REALLY excited to see some gain numbers on NA stock 3.2's with manual transmissions as a baseline.
In the first post it says it's based on the MS3 and has a link to http://www.ms3efi.com/product.html
In there, it clearly says
"2 step type launch control"
In there, it clearly says
"2 step type launch control"
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Glad to see we finally have some real tuning options. Not only will it make more power on the FI TLs, it should greatly increase reliability if used correctly.
I wouldn't get too excited on a stock NA TL though. All it can do is alter fuel and timing and the stock ECU already goes overboard with the timing and there are no grossly rich areas on the map to pick up power from leaning it either. Only real gains from timing are going to be on race gas.
Now as Inaccurate said, start flowing more air with larger cams, porting, etc, and this thing will keep the AF right where you want it, increasing power. The only thing I have to wonder is what is the limit to gearing in the 5at? Isn't it already a 5.x:1 final drive? At some point pinion strength is going to become an issue. Hopefully I'm wrong, it would be nice to have a lower set of gears. Other option might be to swap out individual gears such as 4th but that would probably be harder to do.
I wouldn't get too excited on a stock NA TL though. All it can do is alter fuel and timing and the stock ECU already goes overboard with the timing and there are no grossly rich areas on the map to pick up power from leaning it either. Only real gains from timing are going to be on race gas.
Now as Inaccurate said, start flowing more air with larger cams, porting, etc, and this thing will keep the AF right where you want it, increasing power. The only thing I have to wonder is what is the limit to gearing in the 5at? Isn't it already a 5.x:1 final drive? At some point pinion strength is going to become an issue. Hopefully I'm wrong, it would be nice to have a lower set of gears. Other option might be to swap out individual gears such as 4th but that would probably be harder to do.
04Tl
Quote:
I wouldn't get too excited on a stock NA TL though. All it can do is alter fuel and timing and the stock ECU already goes overboard with the timing and there are no grossly rich areas on the map to pick up power from leaning it either. Only real gains from timing are going to be on race gas.
Now as Inaccurate said, start flowing more air with larger cams, porting, etc, and this thing will keep the AF right where you want it, increasing power. The only thing I have to wonder is what is the limit to gearing in the 5at? Isn't it already a 5.x:1 final drive? At some point pinion strength is going to become an issue. Hopefully I'm wrong, it would be nice to have a lower set of gears. Other option might be to swap out individual gears such as 4th but that would probably be harder to do.
ya i see your point on the limit of NA TL but wouldnt u also gain power from an increased rev limiter?Originally Posted by I hate cars
Glad to see we finally have some real tuning options. Not only will it make more power on the FI TLs, it should greatly increase reliability if used correctly.I wouldn't get too excited on a stock NA TL though. All it can do is alter fuel and timing and the stock ECU already goes overboard with the timing and there are no grossly rich areas on the map to pick up power from leaning it either. Only real gains from timing are going to be on race gas.
Now as Inaccurate said, start flowing more air with larger cams, porting, etc, and this thing will keep the AF right where you want it, increasing power. The only thing I have to wonder is what is the limit to gearing in the 5at? Isn't it already a 5.x:1 final drive? At some point pinion strength is going to become an issue. Hopefully I'm wrong, it would be nice to have a lower set of gears. Other option might be to swap out individual gears such as 4th but that would probably be harder to do.
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Originally Posted by Yonkers914
ya i see your point on the limit of NA TL but wouldnt u also gain power from an increased rev limiter?
Probably. I know my car feels like it's not falling off at all when it hits the revlimiter. Who knows how much farther it would pull but you're right, there's probably something to gain there.
One big question to the guys designing this thing..... Was there any consideration to go with a MAF setup instead of the speed density? It would eliminate the need for a constant retune with different mods and different seasons. For the street MAF is just so much more user friendly. I think this would be a HUGE advantage in having a very user friendly 500hp TL that you can drive anywhere under any conditions or even a NA TL with a couple bolt-ons.
I understand it uses a wideband to constantly refine the fuel tables but having the computer measure the air entering the engine instead of checking it after the fact would be so much better. Part throttle drivability should be especially better with less hiccups. But again, the elimination of constant tuning each time you change the setup or change weather would be the biggest advantage.
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Quote:
I wouldn't get too excited on a stock NA TL though. All it can do is alter fuel and timing and the stock ECU already goes overboard with the timing and there are no grossly rich areas on the map to pick up power from leaning it either. Only real gains from timing are going to be on race gas.
Now as Inaccurate said, start flowing more air with larger cams, porting, etc, and this thing will keep the AF right where you want it, increasing power. The only thing I have to wonder is what is the limit to gearing in the 5at? Isn't it already a 5.x:1 final drive? At some point pinion strength is going to become an issue. Hopefully I'm wrong, it would be nice to have a lower set of gears. Other option might be to swap out individual gears such as 4th but that would probably be harder to do.
What do you think for a fully bolted 6MT base with high flow primary cats and ported intake manifold and runners? I think the stock ecu starts pulling back the timing at ~6200. If we can take it to 7000-7200 and keep the timing up there, it should help.Originally Posted by I hate cars
Glad to see we finally have some real tuning options. Not only will it make more power on the FI TLs, it should greatly increase reliability if used correctly.I wouldn't get too excited on a stock NA TL though. All it can do is alter fuel and timing and the stock ECU already goes overboard with the timing and there are no grossly rich areas on the map to pick up power from leaning it either. Only real gains from timing are going to be on race gas.
Now as Inaccurate said, start flowing more air with larger cams, porting, etc, and this thing will keep the AF right where you want it, increasing power. The only thing I have to wonder is what is the limit to gearing in the 5at? Isn't it already a 5.x:1 final drive? At some point pinion strength is going to become an issue. Hopefully I'm wrong, it would be nice to have a lower set of gears. Other option might be to swap out individual gears such as 4th but that would probably be harder to do.
I'm guessing 275 peak whp and a somewhat broader powerband.
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Acura publishes the peak HP to be at 6200 RPM. Chassis dynos by Acurazine members show peak HP occurring at between 6200-6500 RPM.
A very good and reliable rule-of-thumb for drag racing is to have your shift points at 500 RPM beyond the peak HP RPM.
Thus, the ideal shift point for the TL should be between 6700-7000 RPM.
BTW - generally speaking for a N/A TL, the RPM at which the peak HP occurs will not change due to mods. The only thing that will significantly alter the peak HP RPM on a N/A engine is to change the camshaft intake duration (at 0.050").
A very good and reliable rule-of-thumb for drag racing is to have your shift points at 500 RPM beyond the peak HP RPM.
Thus, the ideal shift point for the TL should be between 6700-7000 RPM.
BTW - generally speaking for a N/A TL, the RPM at which the peak HP occurs will not change due to mods. The only thing that will significantly alter the peak HP RPM on a N/A engine is to change the camshaft intake duration (at 0.050").
2005 AM at/navi
Quote:
A very good and reliable rule-of-thumb for drag racing is to have your shift points at 500 RPM beyond the peak HP RPM.
Thus, the ideal shift point for the TL should be between 6700-7000 RPM.
BTW - generally speaking for a N/A TL, the RPM at which the peak HP occurs will not change due to mods. The only thing that will significantly alter the peak HP RPM on a N/A engine is to change the camshaft intake duration (at 0.050").
how do i do this? do i buy something or is it something i can just take to a shop and have them do? sorry if it is a noob question but i have heard about this before and i am sure you have my answer man.Originally Posted by Inaccurate
Acura publishes the peak HP to be at 6200 RPM. Chassis dynos by Acurazine members show peak HP occurring at between 6200-6500 RPM.A very good and reliable rule-of-thumb for drag racing is to have your shift points at 500 RPM beyond the peak HP RPM.
Thus, the ideal shift point for the TL should be between 6700-7000 RPM.
BTW - generally speaking for a N/A TL, the RPM at which the peak HP occurs will not change due to mods. The only thing that will significantly alter the peak HP RPM on a N/A engine is to change the camshaft intake duration (at 0.050").
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Inaccurate has the info on them but you would install bigger cams. Bisimoto makes several offerings for the TL. Usually to compliment the quicker ramp speeds and higher rpm range of the larger cams, you install stiffer valve springs and stronger retainers and keepers to make sure reliability does not suffer.Originally Posted by jr27
how do i do this? do i buy something or is it something i can just take to a shop and have them do? sorry if it is a noob question but i have heard about this before and i am sure you have my answer man.
2005 AM at/navi
Quote:
oh yeah i have checked does out on their website, they are a bit pricey since i just got wheels, tires, j-pipe, and cat-back in the last few months. but i think i will do these next, or maybe pcd's what would you do first?Originally Posted by I hate cars
Inaccurate has the info on them but you would install bigger cams. Bisimoto makes several offerings for the TL. Usually to compliment the quicker ramp speeds and higher rpm range of the larger cams, you install stiffer valve springs and stronger retainers and keepers to make sure reliability does not suffer.
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Your next mod should be the PCD.Originally Posted by jr27
i think i will do these next, or maybe pcd's what would you do first?
2005 AM at/navi
Quote:
yeah i guess so a little cheaper and i can put them on myself like the rest of my exhaust set-up. but im not gonna try to even mess with those cams, i would have to have somebody put them on. thanks guys like i said you two are always on top of things and know your stuff.Originally Posted by Inaccurate
Your next mod should be the PCD.
well back on topic, when this ecu comes out i will maybe pick one up too depending on the price.

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Any chance this can be configured for MAF with the obvious translator in the mix? I would buy one for my stock TL if I could convert to MAF.
Burning Brakes
This feature allows all fuel calculations to run from an in-line Mass Air Flow Meter rather than the MAP sensor. The sensor needs to have a 0-5V output voltage, it MUST NOT have a larger output voltage than 5V. Ford sensors seem to be compatible with this but please check before you connect it to your MS.
Sensors tested so far:
Ford F1ZF-12B579-AA AFH55-03B
To set the ECU up to use MAF rather than MAP you need to find the Advanced Code Options in the Advance menu.
The MAF input must be connected to X7 for a V2.2 PCB or JP5 for the V3.0 PCB. As most MAF's have a built in compensation for air density it is best to select Air Density Correction - Built into AFM, this sets the air density value in the fueling algorithm to 100.
To set MegaTune up for MAF use, either select the Mass Air Flow option during the installation of Megatune-Extra Install or if you used a different version then you will need to use the Configurator within MegaTune. To do this run MegaTune and select:
File - Configurator
Then select
Car1 - Settings.ini - Settings - Fueling Algorithm
Change the selection at the top (highlighted RED) to Air Flow Meter, then save and close the program. The next time MegaTune is opened it will be in MAF mode, so now the voltage from the MAF will be displayed on the front screen. The VE and Spark tables will be in Volts
Nitrous (N2O) Control
This feature gives you control over nitrous oxide injection (N20). At the simplest level it can ensure that a typical nitrous system is only activated about certain rpm etc. If you want to be more advanced you can retard the timing or switch to a new fuel and/or spark map when the NOS is activated.
Ihc I gathered this info real quick as I'm out right now but tomorrow I give you detailed info on changing over to maf sensor but I'm sure it can be done I'll talk with tuner in morning ...
Sensors tested so far:
Ford F1ZF-12B579-AA AFH55-03B
To set the ECU up to use MAF rather than MAP you need to find the Advanced Code Options in the Advance menu.
The MAF input must be connected to X7 for a V2.2 PCB or JP5 for the V3.0 PCB. As most MAF's have a built in compensation for air density it is best to select Air Density Correction - Built into AFM, this sets the air density value in the fueling algorithm to 100.
To set MegaTune up for MAF use, either select the Mass Air Flow option during the installation of Megatune-Extra Install or if you used a different version then you will need to use the Configurator within MegaTune. To do this run MegaTune and select:
File - Configurator
Then select
Car1 - Settings.ini - Settings - Fueling Algorithm
Change the selection at the top (highlighted RED) to Air Flow Meter, then save and close the program. The next time MegaTune is opened it will be in MAF mode, so now the voltage from the MAF will be displayed on the front screen. The VE and Spark tables will be in Volts
Nitrous (N2O) Control
This feature gives you control over nitrous oxide injection (N20). At the simplest level it can ensure that a typical nitrous system is only activated about certain rpm etc. If you want to be more advanced you can retard the timing or switch to a new fuel and/or spark map when the NOS is activated.
Ihc I gathered this info real quick as I'm out right now but tomorrow I give you detailed info on changing over to maf sensor but I'm sure it can be done I'll talk with tuner in morning ...
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Quote:
Sensors tested so far:
Ford F1ZF-12B579-AA AFH55-03B
To set the ECU up to use MAF rather than MAP you need to find the Advanced Code Options in the Advance menu.
The MAF input must be connected to X7 for a V2.2 PCB or JP5 for the V3.0 PCB. As most MAF's have a built in compensation for air density it is best to select Air Density Correction - Built into AFM, this sets the air density value in the fueling algorithm to 100.
To set MegaTune up for MAF use, either select the Mass Air Flow option during the installation of Megatune-Extra Install or if you used a different version then you will need to use the Configurator within MegaTune. To do this run MegaTune and select:
File - Configurator
Then select
Car1 - Settings.ini - Settings - Fueling Algorithm
Change the selection at the top (highlighted RED) to Air Flow Meter, then save and close the program. The next time MegaTune is opened it will be in MAF mode, so now the voltage from the MAF will be displayed on the front screen. The VE and Spark tables will be in Volts
Nitrous (N2O) Control
This feature gives you control over nitrous oxide injection (N20). At the simplest level it can ensure that a typical nitrous system is only activated about certain rpm etc. If you want to be more advanced you can retard the timing or switch to a new fuel and/or spark map when the NOS is activated.
Ihc I gathered this info real quick as I'm out right now but tomorrow I give you detailed info on changing over to maf sensor but I'm sure it can be done I'll talk with tuner in morning ...
That is so neat! I'm really impressed with your guys' work. Can't wait to try this out. Thanks for the info.Originally Posted by pass427
This feature allows all fuel calculations to run from an in-line Mass Air Flow Meter rather than the MAP sensor. The sensor needs to have a 0-5V output voltage, it MUST NOT have a larger output voltage than 5V. Ford sensors seem to be compatible with this but please check before you connect it to your MS.Sensors tested so far:
Ford F1ZF-12B579-AA AFH55-03B
To set the ECU up to use MAF rather than MAP you need to find the Advanced Code Options in the Advance menu.
The MAF input must be connected to X7 for a V2.2 PCB or JP5 for the V3.0 PCB. As most MAF's have a built in compensation for air density it is best to select Air Density Correction - Built into AFM, this sets the air density value in the fueling algorithm to 100.
To set MegaTune up for MAF use, either select the Mass Air Flow option during the installation of Megatune-Extra Install or if you used a different version then you will need to use the Configurator within MegaTune. To do this run MegaTune and select:
File - Configurator
Then select
Car1 - Settings.ini - Settings - Fueling Algorithm
Change the selection at the top (highlighted RED) to Air Flow Meter, then save and close the program. The next time MegaTune is opened it will be in MAF mode, so now the voltage from the MAF will be displayed on the front screen. The VE and Spark tables will be in Volts
Nitrous (N2O) Control
This feature gives you control over nitrous oxide injection (N20). At the simplest level it can ensure that a typical nitrous system is only activated about certain rpm etc. If you want to be more advanced you can retard the timing or switch to a new fuel and/or spark map when the NOS is activated.
Ihc I gathered this info real quick as I'm out right now but tomorrow I give you detailed info on changing over to maf sensor but I'm sure it can be done I'll talk with tuner in morning ...
Burning Brakes
Just to inform everyone that this ecu has capability to control the engine and it function without the help of the stock ecu ,this would require the use of a non driveby wire throttle system which jandr can setup for you also ... I'm currently daily driving the ecu in Darins TypeS 2007 as we love to test in the real world where the ecu will be used most not just on the dyno ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by TCM 01 CL-S
Any chance this may work with the 2G TL/CL j32a2 motor?
I don't think so. What makes this standalone work is that the 06-08 Acura TL/TL-s ECU's are a CAN-bus type. This allows JandR's standalone to control the motor and let the ACURA OEM ECU control the gauge cluster, tranny, etc.
Our 2nd Gen 01-03 ECU's are not CAN-bus type.
** You could try the AEM EMS-II if you have a manual tranny, but it is a true standalone.
Uses turn signals in my
Quote:
Our 2nd Gen 01-03 ECU's are not CAN-bus type.
** You could try the AEM EMS-II if you have a manual tranny, but it is a true standalone.
Originally Posted by WHEEELMAN
I don't think so. What makes this standalone work is that the 06-08 Acura TL/TL-s ECU's are a CAN-bus type. This allows JandR's standalone to control the motor and let the ACURA OEM ECU control the gauge cluster, tranny, etc. Our 2nd Gen 01-03 ECU's are not CAN-bus type.
** You could try the AEM EMS-II if you have a manual tranny, but it is a true standalone.
Ah, that is too bad, but I appreciate the answer.
Burning Brakes
Quote:
Don't get dissapointed just yet ,yes it can and will work on a 2g r&d might be even quicker Anne simpler than the 3G ,but right now we are focused on getting the 3G up and running as a lot of people are waiting on this ,but after we get done if we get a group together I'll go ahead and get it running on the 2 g also ..Originally Posted by TCM 01 CL-S
Ah, that is too bad, but I appreciate the answer.Quote:
Originally Posted by pass427
Don't get dissapointed just yet ,yes it can and will work on a 2g r&d might be even quicker Anne simpler than the 3G
If it could run a 2nd gen ECU AND let the ECU run the 5 speed A/T in an 01 Accord platform, you would have another customer for it.
Good luck guys -- sounds like you are about to turn AEM on its A$$
Uses turn signals in my
Quote:
That sounds great, keep us 2G guys posted.Originally Posted by pass427
Don't get dissapointed just yet ,yes it can and will work on a 2g r&d might be even quicker Anne simpler than the 3G ,but right now we are focused on getting the 3G up and running as a lot of people are waiting on this ,but after we get done if we get a group together I'll go ahead and get it running on the 2 g also ..




