My path to 300WHP - 6MT Type-S
10-18-2013, 09:10 AM
#121
Three Wheelin'
Is that the Spec or OEM setup?
If that clutch engages right away, sounds like it would be tough to use for a daily driver? Wish I could test drive your car for like 2mins.
How bad do the 75 mounts vibrate on idle at a stop?
If that clutch engages right away, sounds like it would be tough to use for a daily driver? Wish I could test drive your car for like 2mins.
How bad do the 75 mounts vibrate on idle at a stop?
10-18-2013, 09:15 AM
#122
It's not bad, but like I said, I'm in the break-in period.
At a stop, they don't really vibrate more than stock. It's only when taking off, reversing, etc. They are also in the break-in period so I can't definitively say.
10-18-2013, 09:29 AM
#123
Three Wheelin'
Cool thx.
And congrats! Decent weight savings too.
Let us know how it feels after it's all broken in and you've had a chance to put a few miles on it.
And congrats! Decent weight savings too.
Let us know how it feels after it's all broken in and you've had a chance to put a few miles on it.
10-18-2013, 10:00 AM
#125
Three Wheelin'
ugh that sucks 
What is the break in procedure for the clutch / mounts? Just no WOT or hard driving?
What is the break in procedure for the clutch / mounts? Just no WOT or hard driving?
10-18-2013, 10:17 AM
#127
Three Wheelin'
It would take me 1-2 months to put 500 miles on it 
I'm looking at their stage 2 clutch vs clutchmasters FX300.
I'm looking at their stage 2 clutch vs clutchmasters FX300.
10-24-2013, 12:40 PM
#129
Three Wheelin'
I'm sold on the Spec flywheel, but a stage 3+ clutch is a bit too much for me, and since their rep on anything below that is shaky, I think I'm going with a FX300 or FX350 clutch from CM.
What I dont know yet is if I'm just gonna stick with NA with bolt-ons and a possible nitrous setup, or turbo. So I need to check around to see which flywheel is better for boosted applications: lightweight or OEM dual mass, and the torque limits of each clutch. I want to keep it a street setup, not a track or 1/4 mile one, so keeping as smooth of a clutch engagement as possible for daily driving is my goal. I also don't want to do this twice, so I need to try and make up my mind soon on the overal plan. Of course, if either clutch can handle a turbo, then it covers me now no matter which way I go after. I could wait on the clutch until I make up my mind, but the one on the car now is toast and I'd like to try and take advantage of Thanksgiving sales next month.
What I dont know yet is if I'm just gonna stick with NA with bolt-ons and a possible nitrous setup, or turbo. So I need to check around to see which flywheel is better for boosted applications: lightweight or OEM dual mass, and the torque limits of each clutch. I want to keep it a street setup, not a track or 1/4 mile one, so keeping as smooth of a clutch engagement as possible for daily driving is my goal. I also don't want to do this twice, so I need to try and make up my mind soon on the overal plan. Of course, if either clutch can handle a turbo, then it covers me now no matter which way I go after. I could wait on the clutch until I make up my mind, but the one on the car now is toast and I'd like to try and take advantage of Thanksgiving sales next month.
10-24-2013, 02:03 PM
#130
My vote is still for Spec. I haven't driven any other applications, but I'm loving mine and it's definitely very streetable. I would not be scared of that aspect of it at all. I wish I could telepathically communicate the driving feel of this setup with you.
One thing is for certain, I would avoid the OEM dual mass flywheel. Plus I'm pretty sure that you can only use the OEM clutch with the OEM dual mass flywheel. You can't interchange either of them.
PM gerzand for more insight on this setup. I know he loves his too.
One thing is for certain, I would avoid the OEM dual mass flywheel. Plus I'm pretty sure that you can only use the OEM clutch with the OEM dual mass flywheel. You can't interchange either of them.
PM gerzand for more insight on this setup. I know he loves his too.
10-24-2013, 02:38 PM
#131
Three Wheelin'
I know I wish I could take your car around the block!
Sounds right - as far as I know, the OEM clutch is a solid disc, since the flywheel is dampened (dual mass). If you use a solid flywheel, such as the Spec or CM lightweight flywheel, then you virtually eliminate the dampening, and will chatter/make noise/etc. The solution is to use a dampened clutch (sprung hub). So if you use a solid lightweight flywheel, you will need a new clutch to match as well. You want dampening, either on the flywheel or clutch.
Sounds right - as far as I know, the OEM clutch is a solid disc, since the flywheel is dampened (dual mass). If you use a solid flywheel, such as the Spec or CM lightweight flywheel, then you virtually eliminate the dampening, and will chatter/make noise/etc. The solution is to use a dampened clutch (sprung hub). So if you use a solid lightweight flywheel, you will need a new clutch to match as well. You want dampening, either on the flywheel or clutch.
10-26-2013, 05:48 PM
#132
Three Wheelin'
Whats the diff between the SA40A-2 and URSA40A-2? Both from speedshopusa.
10-26-2013, 05:55 PM
#133
https://www.google.com/search?q=spec...40A-2&safe=off
Substitute the SA40A-2 part number where URSA40A-2 is listed and you will see what I am talking about.
By the way, taken from Spec's website:
10-26-2013, 06:19 PM
#134
Three Wheelin'
^^
Yeah I saw that too thats why I was wondering about the other P/N from speedshopusa.
I think I've settled on the Spec flywheel with a CM FX250 clutch. Gonna keep it NA and I want the car to be as daily driver friendly as possible. The stage 2+ from CM should fit the bill.
Yeah I saw that too thats why I was wondering about the other P/N from speedshopusa.
I think I've settled on the Spec flywheel with a CM FX250 clutch. Gonna keep it NA and I want the car to be as daily driver friendly as possible. The stage 2+ from CM should fit the bill.
10-26-2013, 11:05 PM
#135
Suzuka Master
OEM would be fine.
11-03-2013, 11:50 AM
#137
Thought this was interesting to compare a baseline TL-s 6MT curve over mine.
Stock 6MT TL-s:
Mine:
Notice the difference in where peak hp and torque are made.
I'll also be dynoing next weekend now that I have new motor mounts, throttle body calibrated, and spec stage 3+ clutch and 14lb flywheel.
Stock 6MT TL-s:
Mine:
Notice the difference in where peak hp and torque are made.
I'll also be dynoing next weekend now that I have new motor mounts, throttle body calibrated, and spec stage 3+ clutch and 14lb flywheel.
11-05-2013, 09:11 AM
#139
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (3)
3000rpm: 135hp/237tq vs 130hp/222tq
3500rpm: 162/239 vs 155/231
4000rpm: 187/250 vs 175/231
4500rpm: 213/250 vs 200/233
5000rpm: 237/251 vs 223/234
5500rpm: 268/254 vs 240/234
6000rpm: 285/251 vs 255/222
6500rpm: 303/245 vs 254/206
Last edited by gerzand; 11-05-2013 at 09:14 AM.
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JJH (11-09-2013)
11-09-2013, 04:28 PM
#140
Dynod again today. Made 294.4/277.1 this time on a Dynocom 5000 roller dyno, brand new machine.
Today's Dyno Chart:
Previous Dyno Chart (303/254):
Attachment 108943
Today's Dyno Chart:
Previous Dyno Chart (303/254):
Attachment 108943
11-09-2013, 06:37 PM
#142
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thisaznboi88 (11-09-2013)
11-09-2013, 08:18 PM
#144
Yeah, I'm not even going to try and explain that one lol. Only differences between now and the last time that I dynod was I've since got a new Spec stage 3+ clutch, 14lb aluminum lightweight flywheel (oem weighs 28+lbs), and new excelerate 75 durometer motor mounts. I guess that all equates to 23+lbs of extra torque (lol). We'll just attribute the loss in horsepower to variance in dynos.
The following 4 users liked this post by 1black_seven:
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