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I would like to eventually build my j32 engine. For FI I would like to lower cylinder compression. I’ve read that using forged 3.5 rods on a 3.2 crank will lower compression due to 3.2L rods being longer. Is this true?
If your,going boost no need to worry about camshaft? How much power do you want to make? Also you might want to consider buffing up the transmission.
. this is how much power you need to be a 10sec car. Taken from my friend built motor accord v6 mt.
FWD kills these cars. It's fine for ~350whp, but anything up and beyond that, I dunno what the point is... unless you like spinning your tires in 4th gear at 85mph
Then again, looking at that dyno curve... looks like he could've used a smaller turbo to build boost earlier on, with a much lower peak power value and still gotten the same times.
Curious, OP, why don't you pick up a platform that comes with boost from the factory? Then you can safely play with it, up the boost easily, and make stupid amounts of power at a fraction of the cost.
Granted, the TL is a good looking car... but dropping mad cash to build up a stock engine to handle more power, which is still incredibly difficult to effectively put down and control, why not pick up a 335i or S4 or something, throw a tune and full exhaust on and enjoy the 100hp you just gained, to add to the 100hp more the stock car already has over a stock TL?
Better bang for your buck. A shit ton of cars to choose from. Lots of good looking examples. Etc.
I mean, it's you're money by the end of the day... but there's a reason nobody really spends crazy money on modding the TL anymore.
I still drive a TL, but looking to replace it next year... probably with another 3G TL
But I won't be spending money on modding the shit out of it. If I didn't buy another 3G, I'd be looking at a new Golf R, or a 2016 S4 (last year of the manual). Nothing really else out there for me.
but look at any of the mods or OG members... I'd say maybe 20% of them still have an Acura in their household.
I’m not trying to pimp it out, or make it a 10 second car. I just want to build it to handle he 500whp I’m looking for. I am trying to only do Mors to it that I can swap into a 6mt.
Im modding my 3g because I want a faster car, but haven’t found anything close to what the 3g means to me.
I think you're trying to spark conversation, which isn't a bad thing...but acurazine already has a plethora of what if threads that are all talk and no action.
I’m not installing a rear engine, I just shared the crude measurements to show it is a possibility. Sparking a conversation because this is one project not yet contemplated from my search.
Nah, I spent my wad on the Rotrex, now have to save for the 6mt.
This is gives me time to ask questions before I shoot my load.
Understood. Thanks for the response.
If it were you, I was going to suggest, based on the picture below, to hose down the S/C'er shaft and snout with some brake clean before your long drive across the country. It's a little difficult to tell with the caked grime; however, there may be a slight weep of S/C'er oil at the snout. It may also just be residual motor oil left over from sloppy oil changes. Just an observation, it's probably nothing serious.
Understood. Thanks for the response.
If it were you, I was going to suggest, based on the picture below, to hose down the S/C'er shaft and snout with some brake clean before your long drive across the country. It's a little difficult to tell with the caked grime; however, there may be a slight weep of S/C'er oil at the snout. It may also just be residual motor oil left over from sloppy oil changes. Just an observation, it's probably nothing serious.
Zeta, that rustbucket isnt mine! I put 180ml of fresh Delco supercharger oil in mine. After using loctite, I went into the shaft opening and used Qtips to clean out the risidual on the inside.
Last edited by Acura TL Builder; Aug 4, 2018 at 12:04 PM.
Yes sir, Aaron from Englishtown racing (I think that's the name of his place) knows anything you want to know about J series. His car has 950whp-ish on his J, he was running oem piston and rods with a stock block. Most people don't know that little known fact. But the J35A1 piston and rods are beefy to support about 700whp Aaron says. The stock sleeves of the J35A8 can support it too. All you would need is valve spring and retainers and you are good to go.
why would the j series be built to withstand 700HP?
Curious. Not asking for a friend. I want to know.
Engines are routinely over-engineered. Think back to the pedestrian 2.2 liter "Turbo I" engine in the old Dodge Daytona; in 1984 at full boil the engine put out a whopping 140 HP; the engine itself was stressed to well over 400 HP.
Right, but you're comparing two completely different applications. Forced induction engines were normally overbuilt. Think of the Skyline engines, Supra engines, etc. All of them could handle a ton of power.
It's not normal to build a naturally aspirated engine to handle almost three times its rated power. Just because someone did it and hasn't had the engine blow up, doesn't mean it won't blow up. Often times guys build up their cars and then sell them within 1000 miles of finishing it.
Think if it this way- honda is an ultra conservative company- they are all about pinching pennies wherever possible. I am very skeptical to believe honda built a NA engine able to withstand 700hp, knowing full well it would never be utilized.
It may also just be residual motor oil left over from sloppy oil changes.
Just an observation, it's probably nothing serious.
, I know. 
