hondazex

iTrader: (1)

sonnick what is the weight of your car on paper ?? !! with slick you gained another 0.2-4 at your best time !! i love your 60 feet

Sonnick

Thanks man. I weighed it about 3 years ago @ 3250 without me in it and 1/2 tank of gas. I had no spare at the track and ~1/4 tank, so I'm assuming it's around 3200 without me. That would make it a little over 3350 with me in it. I'd love to run with no back seats/passenger seat but I can't bring myself to do it. That and lightweight wheels could put me near 12s with a perfect pass in sea level conditions...

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^

take those rear seats out !!!

its not too bad to remove and put back in....or better yet, just replace your front seats for racing seats....

hondazex

iTrader: (1)

ok you weight around 250 lbs more lighter at me !

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^

"you weigh around 250lbs lighter than me" LOL

shit, it only goes to tell how heavy the TL Base 5AT is from factory....after ~620lbs of weight loss I came in at 3050....

Sonnick

Lmao............I'll have to decide about the rear seats, etc. Probably not until I'm actually 'shooting for 12s.' I just finally broke into the 13s, I'm not trying to get too ahead of myself lol. I want to do it with full interior, so that may take precedent.

Damn, the base TL is a fat pig! Lol. Swoosh when you goin' to the track bro? I'm sure you could pull a great ET/trap with all that weight reduction and power!

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ well you never know until you give it a shot...

i say, strip the basic interior parts....empty out the trunk, take the rear seats out, take unwanted stuff from under your hood (eg engine ) but you get the point....

borrow some lightweight wheels/tires or buy em, if budget manager approves....and hit the track to see a smile on your face

I might not hit the 1/4 mile track since mine is an AT....but i def wanna hit a circuit style track....

Sonnick

LOL. Budget manager does not approve. Oh, I know that all too well

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

samies

Atlas.46

My accord was faster then Sonnicks for a week. :-/ But i still have the better 60'.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

Stay full interior. I honestly think you're only a set of cams and a tune away from 107-108 mph. That's S/C 6MT TL territory, and if you can do it with bolt-ons and full weight, that's all the more impressive. That's serious sleeper status for an Accord that doesn't hiss or whine.

Any good street kills lately?

Sonnick

^ I'm debating taking the back seats out for a shot at 12s (once I get that opportunity, not at this point). Otherwise, the car will most certainly stay full interior. Looking to end the season with a 13.3x @104.x on the current setup. I'm gonna make sure the car is completely empty besides full interior also. (Empty glove box/center console/back of seats, etc). See below, but I also want to try a 4" CAI next time if I can.

I'm throwing a P0174 (Bank 2 too lean). This code only comes on for about 40-50 miles and then turns off, but it happens relatively frequently. I'd say after 500-600 miles of driving, the code comes back and goes away just as quickly each time (40-50 miles). When the code is on, the car acts a little funny. If I put the car in neutral to coast to a stop, the RPMs will jump up around 2500 or so and stay there until I come to a full stop. Upon stopping, the revs will come down gradually. Also, when shifting, there is a lot of rev hang. Maybe the air from the TB/manifold is too much for the stock ECU? The car bogs down at idle sometimes and almost stalls whether the CEL is on or not. That happens pretty frequently also. I don't understand why the code comes on and goes away though......maybe a clogged injector?

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

holy crap...

try seafoam

Sonnick

Did seafoam about 5K ago.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

you seafoamed the air track and fuel track ?

as in vac port and gas tank

but cud it be the maf sensor on the TB? are you using the new sensor which came with the TL TB or the old one?

Sonnick

Yea I used the vacuum port as well as the gas tank and crank case. I'm using the MAP from my stock TB because the connector wouldn't fit the 09 TL MAP.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

i need to send you a picture....for sure i will today....use the 09+ MAP and you wont have any issues...

Sonnick

Oh sh1t, really!? How the heck did yours fit the stock plug?!

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ MAF sensor itself fit the TB just fine...the connector was a problem and I dremeled the guidelines on the sensor and it fit perfectly....will take some pix today when i leave work and post it up tomorrow

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

here is the pic of the dremeled maf sensor from the 4D SHAWD TB...

now the connector fits the sensor perfectly well

Sonnick

Thanks swoosh. Pardon my ignorance, but I'm not 100% sure where it's dremeled lol. It looks pretty damn perfect wherever you did it.

Also, when you did the ported runners, did you replace the gasket on the 'head' side? Because I reused them and Paul told me it's very possible there is a small leak and is why I'm getting my P0174 code. I really don't want to call my buddy to help me do all that again....ugh.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

I reused mine when I changed out my runners and didn't have any issues.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

if you have a leak get a bottle of carb cleaner and spray it until you hear the change of engine noise. It will drop the idle. I had that happen before

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

I will take that as a compliment LOL....if you cant find out where I dremeled than I might have done it well

here i have circled the dremel area's....they were guidelines to fit the connector, all you do is dremel the guidelines



also, I reused my gaskets and havent encountered any issues *knock on wood*

Sonnick

Thanks guys. I may see if my buddy can dremel it lol.

I asked Paul (NVA-V6) about a clogged injector and he said I would be misfiring if that were the case, which I'm not. Ugh.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ I think you will gain from using the RDX injectors (440cc). I know 440cc seems like am over kill and I was gonna recommend the TL-Type S (i think 370cc) injectors but the RDX injectors have better atomization hence the fuel mixture burns well...

Sonnick

True but once I change the injectors I'm not 'bolt on' anymore. That's a whole new realm I want to stay bolt on only for now. We will see what happens.

Swoosh, did you get my PM?

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

True and not true LOL

Well you are just changing the injectors and pigtails....you will still be bolt on as you dont need any/much tuning for that....more air and more fuel = more power....you got that more air covered, what about more fuel

am not saying, you need a new upgraded fuel pump....just injectors

EDIT: got your PM....will reply when i get home....sounds fair ?

Sonnick

^ I know sometimes they don't go through so I was just checking

Eh.....I still think upgraded injectors aren't really 'bolt on' anymore. If I need them then of course, otherwise I'd like to stay on the stock injectors. Is there a way to measure how much headroom there is?

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ well you wont max out the OEM injectors. period. but the RDX injectors (RDX being a turbo) are high flow and offer amazing atomization....hence I thought it should be something you should consider....

now cams are not "bolt on"....I would love to see you slap some Bisi stage 2 cams, upgraded Valvetrain and head pnp on your Accord....with your weight and mods, you will be insanely quick !!!

Sonnick

At some point I'd like to do cams. I really want to see the full potential of the car with bolt ons/tune first though. I really think I can drive the car into the 12s on street tires with the right wheel/tire setup and a larger CAI. Obviously the weather conditions would have to be perfect. With a good tune, I have no doubts though.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

well i think you have all the bolts ons there are

I would like to add some lightweight OEM sized aftermarket accessory pulleys...i know they dont give much gains but i bet it will free up some lost HP....have you thought about those?

you are fully bolted on thow right?

Atlas.46

Guess its a race to see who gets to the 12s first. I have some plans for winter/tax season. I got to the 13s first, but I think you might get to the 12s first

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

fuq u school girls....i run 10's

Sonnick

Well, my only plans to get to the 12s are possibly RSX 16s and a sticky street tire and a 4" CAI. I want to do it on a street tire and bolt ons only. If it takes a tune, that's fine too. We will see if/when it happens.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

Sonnick, if you don't have a Dremel you can just file the notches down. Or buy a Dremel at Wal-Mart to test out and return it after you "test it out". You can get a basic mono speed one for probably around 30 bucks.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

Sonnick

Update....I got back on the dyno with the 4" CAI/velocity stack setup. Prior dyno was done with the AEM V1. This intake was longer the the AEM, which would explain why I peaked at 63xx RPM rather than 66xx. The midrange gain was impressive though. The comparison dyno is not the exact graph I posted earlier, but it was done on the same day. I'm going to call the shop to see if I can get a graph comparing the stock manifold/3.7 setup/4" CAI to see the difference. Ignore the peak numbers of the before graph, they are all spikes. Previous numbers were 270/227, now 272/235. Graph is below.

http://m32.photobucket.com/albumview....html?newest=1

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

so if am reading right, you gained 2whp and 8wtq from switching from AEM V1 to a 4" intake?

Sonnick

Correct, those are the peak gains. However, I gained anywhere from 5-10whp/tq from 4500-6300. Great midrange gains. With a shorter tube, I believe the peak would be a little higher in the RPM band with slightly less midrange. No plans for that though lol.