This is probably why. ATLP J/race pipes at three years, XLR8 cat back at three years, one month. I could peel off chunks of metal at the flanges.

 

This isn't corroded?

 

so how much hp is the base 5AT??? at the wheels???










































anddddd start

 

That flex joint would be eligible for replacement under warranty. It should not corrode like that and we actually had gone through a couple different suppliers over the life of the product. The most recent ones we've installed have not had this issue.

Also the flanges, flexes and piping come from different suppliers. We know that the piping is 439 however if there is an error with the other suppliers it is possible the material was mistakenly altered. We would need to take this up with our suppliers to validate the issue. Again this could be considered a warrantable issue.

We really appreciate it when customers come to us with problems since it allows us to make sure we are making the best part we can. How can we gauge our performance and improve our product over time if we never hear back from these things? You could have new parts on your car now and be giving us feedback on those. Instead you are telling people not to buy it. Granted it is your choice to do so, but one is a decidedly more helpful and positive approach than the other.

 

Hey Guys, I know this Question has been asked a million times, but How do you really know which J-pipe to buy? I was looking at buying the ATLP? Also does PCD mean Pre-cat deletes?..... if so do I have to get rid of all three of them? I recently deleted my mid muffler and love the sound. So confused?

 

Research.
Yes, PCD is pre-cat delete.
You don't have to do anything you don't want to do. However installing an RV6 V3 j-pipe will not allow the use of the mid-cat(3rd cat).
Folks get rid of the cats simply because they are very restrictive to exhaust flow. No Cats = Less resistance = more freed power.

 

Thx, 1black_seven....will deleting my 3rd cat, change the sound? also replacing my J-pipe will add H.P.? ppl say it does then other ppl says it does not?

 

deleting your third cat will only very slightly change the sound. It is not dramatic - if you deleted the 2 primary cats.....that's another story and the sound would be significantly altered.

Here's a stock type-s with just the RV6 V3 j-pipe (which deletes the third cat):
a performance j-pipe will most assuredly net you positive horsepower.

 

Not all j-pipes will produce the same sound and power.

 

Sounds will of course vary as will HP. However, the sound variation will most likely be greater than the overall power difference (assuming primary cats in place). Otherwise, we don't really know which Jpipe performs the best with the PCDs. We are patiently waiting for someone to pull that off. Any takers?

 

Would I need all 3 of my cats on there? was thinking of buying a ATLP J-pipe and deleting all cats? or Should i just get a J-pipe and leave the cats on there to see how it sounds and performs? I think i read that with a ATLP j-pipe I have to lose one Cat? Once again thx for everyones feedback. I like the sound of my stage 1 now, just looking to add some HP, future mods will be J-pipe, UD Pulley, CAI.?

 

^^^ a jpipe which does not delete any cats (read ATLP) will not alter the sound of the exhaust at all....you will barely notice the difference....

now for your situation....depends on your state laws and what are you looking for....PCD's will yield you the most power of any of the exhaust mods but at the same time if you state rules check your emissions then you will not pass.....

get the jpipe with a cat delete (ATLP jpipe and race pipe) and go from there....

 

my buddy does have the XLR8 v2!

just involves me swapping them(rv6 v3)
and paying for a dyno! lol

 

^^^ Just do it!

 

Why can't the PCD's be a little easier to install.......

 

Its not too bad....just removing the rear can be a bit of a challenge....just remember wiggle wiggle

 

If anyone will do this ever... please add the oem j-pipe to the test. I thinks someone already tested the rv6 vs oem on a same morning dyno... oh wait it was me

 

People doing these gets CEL on the alert. Does not damage hp or engine. Ignore.

 

I was just thinking the same thing. There is more speculation, hearsay, balony slices, and hot air in this thread than I serious think should be allowed. Add that with all the random questions and off topic comments and we should close this damn thing down.


PEOPLE,

I have already proven that back to back dynos on this car are completely pointless without some means of programming the computer. The timing maps in this car's computer are way over-active and will not give consistent results. Even on the same day, same car, back to back. So we can all stfu about what j-pipe makes what power, because it is completely up in the air still.

For those unaware I already tested all these setups back to back to back and got some really disappointing results:
http://www.heeltoeauto.com/blogs/j-p...6-vs-xlr8.html



That being said I wanted to comment on the ATLP material. It is 439, which gets a sorta ugly surface but does not and will not rust. Surface ugliness on the 439 is completely cosmetic and will not effect the integrity of the part. 439 is quite possibly the best material to use for exhaust. It fabs up well and is not prone to cracking. The fact that you can't eat off it after it goes through numerous heat cycles underneath a regularly driven car should come as no surprise, nor should it turn you off. The FLANGES on the system are currently made of a coated mild steel which in nearly all cases we are seeing is perfectly good, even where it snows and they salt the roads. People having rust collect on the flanges we believe are getting their exhausts hotter than average and are burning off the coating. To answer this we are changing the flange material going forward to either a nickel plated or stainless material.

 

hmm lol i'm confused.

most bang for the buck = j pipe

most smile for the buck = PCI spherical compliance bearing (for me, that would be)

 

What is that? What's it do?

 

^^^ once you install the PCI, you never need to fill the blinker fluid....its like a blinker fluid bypass

 

umm it's a bushing on the lower A arm in the front suspension that secures the suspension to the frame.

acura made it out of rubber for ride quality and probably cost issues and whatnot (i'm not an expert)

heeltoe sells aftermarket one that is full on metal.

not on a TL but on other car i felt the the steering snappier and responsive, almost to shun the need of sway bar with a properly set up coilovers.

and the downside would be your wheels will now be fully metal-to-metal contacted to your hands, you will feel every bit of the road. you could (i could) even tell how smooth the pavement is by vibration of steering wheel.

is this trolling or why do i not see the blinker fluid reservoir in the index of my manual

 

its a joke...i should have used Red text before someone actually fills some transmission fluid in the USR sidemarkers