J-Pipe worth it?

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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 03:52 PM
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J-Pipe worth it?

Hey everyone I just got my 05 Acura TL as a daily for my s2000. I raced my friends some what stock s2000 with my AT 05 TL and he put about half a car on me from a 40 roll. It kinda pissed him off LOL. I was wondering if I bought one of these newer J pipes that deletes the 3rd cat. Would that make the difference up and maybe pull on him? From what I saw one of the J pipes gave almost 30 wtq and 19 whp. On a pretty much stock TL. Thanks for the input!
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 04:06 PM
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First, the TL really isn't a race car, so trying to keep up with a sportier, lighter S2000 is going to be tough.

But yes a J-pipe is a good exhaust mod to start off with as it will increase HP and TQ and is probably one of the best exhaust mods to do for the money.
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 04:15 PM
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Well that's good to know. I am looking at getting the new XLR8 j Pipe. Would that be the best one to go with right now? Does it throw an CEL?
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 04:49 PM
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no CEL...no sensor on the 3rd cat. car won't know it's gone.
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 05:01 PM
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According to the dyno sheets, its about the best bang for the buck you can get on the TL.

However, It's not going to make a dramatic difference. I barely noticed it, and the car is still slow. It will make it marginally faster than a stock TL, thats about it.
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 05:34 PM
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to add to these other great points; you'll feel it more in the upper RPM's.


VTEC YO!
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 07:41 PM
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I really like my j-pipe. I can definitely feel the difference.
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 08:59 PM
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Where did you see the 30 torque/19 hp from just a j-pipe? The j-pipe does not release that much power by itself. Now combined with the PCD's, that might make those numbers...

But yes, I also enjoy my RV6 V3 j-pipe...with RV6 V3 PCD's of course...For reference I put down 239 whp/205 lbft with PCD/j-pipe/AEM intake/MDX spacer...
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 09:07 PM
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Quick dyno graph...2007 Base auto...

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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by The Machine
First, the TL really isn't a race car, so trying to keep up with a sportier, lighter S2000 is going to be tough.

But yes a J-pipe is a good exhaust mod to start off with as it will increase HP and TQ and is probably one of the best exhaust mods to do for the money.
Obviously this is true if the road turns, but in a straight line, stock/stockish S2000's are not that fast.

And OP, use the search. There are 17000 j pipe threads discussing their merits.

I do feel the XLR8 is the best built, best performing pipe on the market currently, but you will not get anything close to 19/30 from it.
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 10:28 PM
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It gave me also 2whp on my TL-S so it's far from being a worthy mods. It's usually made from cheap chinese steel and mine got rusted after one winter...AEM V2 is a worthy mod...
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 10:36 PM
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^^

Excelerate has Billy Boat use USA made 304 SS, so that is not true. My cat back still looks new after 4.5 years, and I'm in upstate NY, as in near Syracuse. RV6 also uses 304.

ATLP, on the other hand, uses 439 SS, which doesn't hold up as well.
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by DomGSR-T
It gave me also 2whp on my TL-S so it's far from being a worthy mods. It's usually made from cheap chinese steel and mine got rusted after one winter...AEM V2 is a worthy mod...
Which j-pipe do you have? And I don't know about the XLR8, but I don't think I've seen any rusting issues with the RV6 V3. And only 2 whp, eh? Got any before and after dyno sheets? Any good j-pipe should yield at least 10 whp...

And what do you mean about the AEM being a worthy mod? Power-wise? Price-wise? Again, the j-pipe would yield better power results...
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 01:02 AM
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Originally Posted by anx1300c
^^

Excelerate has Billy Boat use USA made 304 SS, so that is not true. My cat back still looks new after 4.5 years, and I'm in upstate NY, as in near Syracuse. RV6 also uses 304.

ATLP, on the other hand, uses 439 SS, which doesn't hold up as well.

It's the all mighty rv6 v3, and yes it's a 304 steel but a cheap one... if you do the simple magnet test on the pipe will see what I mean... it's far from being a sanitary grade 304. Here's a picture of the rusted piping...

http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/...t/P1010489.jpg
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 01:12 AM
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Ok I just could not resist.
Do NOT waste your $ on a j-pipe.
Do your research !!!!

RV6 v-3 = Waste of $ !!!!

I own a 2005 Acura TL 6-spd.

- Stock = 209whp

- Aem Cold Air intake = 226whp

- Rv6 V3 PCD's = 240whp

Now add the 4th mod.... The all mighty rv6 j-pipe = ........ 234whp.
I LOST 6whp & 12wtq !

It looks nice, but that's it.

You lose power
You get rasp at about 3k-4k
You get very bad fumes
You waste $450

I guess you can say .... It's Really Up to You.... What do you want ?

Having said that not all j pipes are the same......consider xlr8 or ATLP.
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 01:21 AM
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Originally Posted by the fenda rolla
Which j-pipe do you have? And I don't know about the XLR8, but I don't think I've seen any rusting issues with the RV6 V3. And only 2 whp, eh? Got any before and after dyno sheets? Any good j-pipe should yield at least 10 whp...

And what do you mean about the AEM being a worthy mod? Power-wise? Price-wise? Again, the j-pipe would yield better power results...
Sorry I was wrong with my 2 whp gain, it was 4whp. I have done a same morning dyno runs.

Couple runs 100% stock then added the V2. Then unstrapped the car from the dyno, jacked the car on the lift, remove the burning hot oem jpipe then install the RV6 J-pipe. Strapped the car back on the dyno again and did some runs with oem intake + the rv6 j-pipe. then tried with the V2. My dynos thread is posted here:

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/dyno-day-tomorrow-morning-821171/

I got a custom made true dual exhaust later and got some good gain there (12whp)

The only way to get 8-10whp gain out of a J-pipe would be if the oem 3rd cat was dirty/clogged as hell, then it would free some power but it was not the case on my car. Also my oem 3rd cat is not the same as a Base model...I like to know for myself how the things I buy on my cars performed rather than trusting claims from vendors that's why I ran those same day tests... And from what I have tested the V2 gave better gains than the j-pipe and it's very easy to install as a startup mods.
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 01:32 AM
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Originally Posted by TLOHTL
Ok I just could not resist.
Do NOT waste your $ on a j-pipe.
Do your research !!!!

RV6 v-3 = Waste of $ !!!!

I own a 2005 Acura TL 6-spd.

- Stock = 209whp

- Aem Cold Air intake = 226whp

- Rv6 V3 PCD's = 240whp

Now add the 4th mod.... The all mighty rv6 j-pipe = ........ 234whp.
I LOST 6whp & 12wtq !

It looks nice, but that's it.

You lose power
You get rasp at about 3k-4k
You get very bad fumes
You waste $450

I guess you can say .... It's Really Up to You.... What do you want ?

Having said that not all j pipes are the same......consider xlr8 or ATLP.

I also got a super high gain on the first run with the V2, it was like 15whp but I did not believe this gain, the car got dynoed again 5-6 times to see if those gains where real and it then it stabilize to a constant 10whp gain run after run.

I did not get rasp or fumes out of the J-pipe at all, I think you got this when you removed the only cat left on the car and now the rasp and fumes showed up. Oh and the same gain that a Jpipe gives can be made by only removing the oem 3 cat. Unless all the rest of the catback is free flowing getting a j-pipe that connects to the oem bottle neck single pipe is a waste of money.
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 01:39 AM
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Originally Posted by TLOHTL
Ok I just could not resist.
Do NOT waste your $ on a j-pipe.
Do your research !!!!

RV6 v-3 = Waste of $ !!!!

I own a 2005 Acura TL 6-spd.

- Stock = 209whp

- Aem Cold Air intake = 226whp

- Rv6 V3 PCD's = 240whp

Now add the 4th mod.... The all mighty rv6 j-pipe = ........ 234whp.
I LOST 6whp & 12wtq !

It looks nice, but that's it.

You lose power
You get rasp at about 3k-4k
You get very bad fumes
You waste $450

I guess you can say .... It's Really Up to You.... What do you want ?

Having said that not all j pipes are the same......consider xlr8 or ATLP.
Did you ever think maybe the dyno/operator is to blame?

209 whp would be the weakest 3G 6MT on the planet, then gaining 17 whp with an intake isn't happening either, unless maybe you had a severely clogged filter or a dead animal in your intake.
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 01:51 AM
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Originally Posted by DomGSR-T
It's the all mighty rv6 v3, and yes it's a 304 steel but a cheap one... if you do the simple magnet test on the pipe will see what I mean... it's far from being a sanitary grade 304. Here's a picture of the rusted piping...

http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/...t/P1010489.jpg
That looks similar to my ATLP J pipe after one winter and that was 439 ss. Damn.
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 06:56 AM
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LOL at stock 6MT making 209 wheel horsepower LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL
thats less than a auto TL.
hahhahahhahaha
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by TLOHTL
Ok I just could not resist.
Do NOT waste your $ on a j-pipe.
Do your research !!!!

RV6 v-3 = Waste of $ !!!!

I own a 2005 Acura TL 6-spd.

- Stock = 209whp

- Aem Cold Air intake = 226whp

- Rv6 V3 PCD's = 240whp

Now add the 4th mod.... The all mighty rv6 j-pipe = ........ 234whp.
I LOST 6whp & 12wtq !

It looks nice, but that's it.

You lose power
You get rasp at about 3k-4k
You get very bad fumes
You waste $450

I guess you can say .... It's Really Up to You.... What do you want ?

Having said that not all j pipes are the same......consider xlr8 or ATLP.

You waste $450? When you dyno'd the car, where were your AFR numbers sitting at? I bet that if you wasn't running so lean on that intake you would probably be gaining as the intake bounces off all your numbers. Do a run with the stock intake and see if you gain more without the intake.
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by TLOHTL
Ok I just could not resist.
Do NOT waste your $ on a j-pipe.
Do your research !!!!

RV6 v-3 = Waste of $ !!!!

I own a 2005 Acura TL 6-spd.

- Stock = 209whp

- Aem Cold Air intake = 226whp

- Rv6 V3 PCD's = 240whp

Now add the 4th mod.... The all mighty rv6 j-pipe = ........ 234whp.
I LOST 6whp & 12wtq !

It looks nice, but that's it.

You lose power
You get rasp at about 3k-4k
You get very bad fumes
You waste $450

I guess you can say .... It's Really Up to You.... What do you want ?

Having said that not all j pipes are the same......consider xlr8 or ATLP.
Do you happen to have your dyno sheets to post?
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 08:22 AM
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Hmmm It sounds like the J pipe might not be the best first mod. I know the PCD would be, but it is PIA to install... So maybe the AEM V2 intake, but a intake doesn't sound like big gains.
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 09:02 AM
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^ You want gains, intake is a no-no.If your S2K is with DBW, you should know that adding an intake will mess with the AFR without getting it tuned to actually gain from an intake. Again, every car is made different, your car may even made power from intake and jpipe, or you may lose power like TLOHTL, he sacrafised more tq for less hp, because the car was drawing too much air from the intake.
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 11:33 AM
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I see what you mean. With my s2000 any mod doesn't really give any power unless you go FI since they pretty much maxed the car out N/A. My AP2 s2000 has 4.77 gears, T1R 70RT exhaust (SOUNDS BADASS), PLM header, K&N Intake, Apex neo tune and I only pull like a car and a half on my friends with a test pipe or exhaust. Might just keep my daily TL stock engine wise and go with lowering it with some spacers, which I already ordered to make it look better.
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by s2000guy21
I see what you mean. With my s2000 any mod doesn't really give any power unless you go FI since they pretty much maxed the car out N/A. My AP2 s2000 has 4.77 gears, T1R 70RT exhaust (SOUNDS BADASS), PLM header, K&N Intake, Apex neo tune and I only pull like a car and a half on my friends with a test pipe or exhaust. Might just keep my daily TL stock engine wise and go with lowering it with some spacers, which I already ordered to make it look better.
What kind of spacers did you order to *lower* your car???
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by TLOHTL
Ok I just could not resist.
Do NOT waste your $ on a j-pipe.
Do your research !!!!

RV6 v-3 = Waste of $ !!!!

I own a 2005 Acura TL 6-spd.

- Stock = 209whp

- Aem Cold Air intake = 226whp

- Rv6 V3 PCD's = 240whp

Now add the 4th mod.... The all mighty rv6 j-pipe = ........ 234whp.
I LOST 6whp & 12wtq !

It looks nice, but that's it.

You lose power
You get rasp at about 3k-4k
You get very bad fumes
You waste $450

I guess you can say .... It's Really Up to You.... What do you want ?

Having said that not all j pipes are the same......consider xlr8 or ATLP.
wat
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by the fenda rolla
What kind of spacers did you order to *lower* your car???
LOL I meant to say I am lowering the car with TEIN S-tech and got 15mm spacers for the front and 20mm spacers for the rear. Should give it a good look till winter is over.
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 01:18 PM
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by s2000guy21
LOL I meant to say I am lowering the car with TEIN S-tech and got 15mm spacers for the front and 20mm spacers for the rear. Should give it a good look till winter is over.
Ohhhhh...gotcha, much more sense!
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 1black_seven
wat
209 to 226 with a CAI? I call shenanigans. I have been told since I joined AZ that you will get 1-2 max from a CAI considering the stock intake is a cold air design.

Also I'm surprised to see people have such dismal results from the j-pipe I have always read it to be one of the go to mods. As for rust did you not replace the splash guard? I had to remove one to do my transmission fluid and I know it covers the j-pipe either that or the older models don't have it.
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 12:14 AM
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extensive use of the search function has told me that the j-pipe and the UR crank pulley are the biggest and best bangs for your buck.

Sometimes I get confused because it seems like nobody uses the same SAE standards for horsepower.
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 05:53 AM
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What gains are being seen from the crank pulley?
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 07:49 AM
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Wouldn't you want the AP2 to be tuned on Flashpro? Wasn't sure if the DBW on the newer year could be tuned on Apexi Neo.
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by bouncer07
Wouldn't you want the AP2 to be tuned on Flashpro? Wasn't sure if the DBW on the newer year could be tuned on Apexi Neo.

I have a 05. The 07 and up can use the Flashpro. SUCKS!! I am thinking once summer comes around to drop in some BC stage 2 cams and get a real tune to pick up a good 15-20 whp on the s2000. Should make it almost dip in the the high 12's with my other mods.
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 1black_seven
extensive use of the search function has told me that the j-pipe and the UR crank pulley are the biggest and best bangs for your buck.

Sometimes I get confused because it seems like nobody uses the same SAE standards for horsepower.
That's how I feel... I use the search, but come out confused because everyone says something different. What is going on in this acurazine forum!!
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by S-TASTIC
What gains are being seen from the crank pulley?
I cant give you a number off the top of my head. But its effects are noticeable after a few days. The car picks up off a red light much quicker. Top end still feels the same.
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by S-TASTIC
What gains are being seen from the crank pulley?
Nothing you're going to feel on a 3500 lb car.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...k+pulley+calcs
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Old Nov 14, 2012 | 10:42 AM
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what a clusterfuck of a thread
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Old Nov 14, 2012 | 07:05 PM
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^ this

I have rv6 j-pipe and it compliments my rv6 tru dual exhaust nicely. I did't "waste" money on pcds as the type s cell count was ok with me.

And the j-pipe didn't add gas fumes dumbass. The PCD's did that for you.

OP the j-pipe is a solid mod if you have the cash to drop on it. Just look at the bends of the oem manifold and you will see what I mean. Take those out and add equal length runners = better than stock.
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