I'm about to install a Unorthodox crank pulley myself any tips or tools I'll need before I get balls deep into this project?

Peace out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

You will need a hefty ass breaker bar and a 300lb man jumping up and down on it.

 

go 2 the diy crank pulley garage

 

honda pulley removal tool so the pulley doesnt spin.

i used that, got it wedged between the frame, and a 1/2" ratchet with a long extension supported by a jack stand, and a 6ft breaker bar

 

ok cool I'll have to go and buy one..

 

easiest and quickest way is the starter method
but if you dont know what that is then you shouldnt attempt it anyway

 

I rent a 3/4" impact from Rental Max. Don't have enough air compressor capacity to run it constantly, but enough to get some big impacts to break this loose.

 

I used the Honda Crank Pulley Removal Tool, 1/2" - 18" Breaker bar and a 1/2" - 24" breaker bar.



Do not attempt with out this tool. It is a life saver. I did my car and my wife's MDX with it.

 

Hello, my name is Lucas and I am brand new to the forum (although I have been viewing it from the outside for a while) : ) So far all I have on my TSX is a Injen CAI and I am loving it. I ordered a NST crank pulley a few weeks ago and I am just trying to get familiar with the install. Can I get this removal tool from a local auto parts store or is it strictly from Honda?

 

Just order from Amazon (Click me)

 

Heat the nut before trying to loosen it..... we didnt heat it up at all when i did mine. we should have cause for us it took 3 grown ass men + a 4ft breaker bar to get it off.

 

 

Get the tool for sure. I used the jack stand method with a 4ft pipe and it worked like a charm.

I'm only 160lbs and did it myself.

 

Yeah I think I will pick up that piece. Excuse my ignorance but how does the jack stand method work?

 

Oh and what did you guys torque the new crank pulley to?

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RE-pzP8g_x4

As others have said, as tight as you can get it. The tool becomes useless on the new pulley. With the 6MT, I had someone hold the brakes in 6th gear but the driveline has flex to it. With 5AT, you can remove a inspection plate and hold things that way. There are lengthy discussions here about this.

 

access to a lift helps. you won't have to use a long extensions that flex. when you think the bolt or breaker is about to snap in half, push a little more and then you'll hear a very scary snap. then open your eyes, check your shorts, and the bolt will be loose.

 

That about sums it up!!! I was laying on my back, feet against the inner fender, with a 36" breaker bar, I didn't think the thing was going to give, I finally gave one more push with my legs and that wonderful sound was made!! I really did think that one of the 2 breaker bars was going to break.

 

lol yeah that snap is scary! i thought we broke the breaker bar when i heard it lol.

 

actually I snapped a the head clean off a brand new snapon breaker bar... funny... they replaced it no questions asked... used a craftsman and popped it loose...

agreed using a lift is much better as you can wedge the tool in there with a small bar and put it against the frame... then you put a long breaker bar on and have 1 person push and one pull towards the front of the car... and snap crackle and pop she comes loose

ps. as for tightening it... no worries, I tightened mine to 90lbs and it literally was impossible to remove it when I tried to sell it

 

The best way to go about this is with the harmonic removal tool, (local parts stores could have it). Reason is, you need that crank to remain at a complete stand still, so the bolt snaps loose, this way theres no lost leverage...and the tool with a heavy 1/2 in ratchet leaning against the control arm or the frame will hold it at a solid stand still.
Another option is, swinging by a shop and using like a 800 lbs air gun, then put the bolt back on, and slightly tighten it so u can take it back out easily, drive home and take it from there... and no dont worry, it is not going to fall off, just dont leave it LOOSE. It gets tight once the crank's spinning anyway.

Heating it up, can work, but if it doesnt losen up with little heat...eventually youre gonna end up melting through the timing belt cover if you keep torching it, and right behind there is your crank position sensor. So watch out with that torch.

And lastly...Dont try to get the bolt out by leaning a ratchet against the lower control arm, and cranking...even if it has worked for someone...if the bolt is tight enough, you're gonna end up jumping teeth on the cam (mainly the front cam) and that sudden stop on the crank will make the belt wiggle as the cam jumps due to valve springs, causing it to jump few teeth...3 is all u need to not get it started...4-5 teeth jump, and you could bend the valves while you try starting it, not knowing why it doesnt start.
There's an oil pressure actuated timing belt tensioner, and it tightens the belt as you climb up the rpm range...so you can picture that at crank speed, it isn't as tight, therefore its very prone to jumping if this method is used.
As far as tightening it: Tighten it up with a breaker bar as much as you can by hand, and it will never come off!

Pardon the extended details....but just trying to draw you a bigger picture.

You tell me what you wanna do to the car, and i will tell you what you could mess up lol

 

again, Opel, agree. Just knew the 'starter blip' method can't be good for internals.

 

Ok so I finally got my NST Pulley a few days ago and started the install this evening. I used the jack stand method and crank pulley removal tool with about a 4 ft pipe extension on my breaker bar and CRACK! she came loose. I must admit I thought my breaker bar was going to go first. Anyway, I got my new Pulley on and lightly torqued it. But after about 45 mins still cannot get the new supplied belt on. Has any one else only installed the Crank and not the alternator NST pulley and used the supplied belt? If so how did you get the new belt on?

 

this is the 3G TL pulley section.

 

Although you are in the wrong section, I would suggest looking at your routing. It is easy to not route a belt the correct way. Is the NST an underdrive, or a stock size?

 

Sorry I didn't even check what section I was in Ha ha. It is an underdrive with a new supplied belt. I finally got it installed though. I guess the belt was sized to be used with both the crank and alternator pulley so I just put the alternator in as well and it fit.

 

i took it to my local acura dealer. $40 bucks...

 

Crank pulley tool is your best friend.

 

Yeah there is no way I would have been able to do the install without the crank pulley tool. So far the mod seems well worth the money. Much quicker reving.

 

For anyone about to do this install. Don't try to take off the stock alternator pulley without an impact wrench. Not possible without damaging pulley