RACINGHART03

iTrader: (2)

Oh but Al... you pioneered the ulitmate grounding strategy!!!

mrlunecy

iTrader: (1)

Princely Bug and myself threw this down this past Saturday on both our NBP's;
Took us around 8 hours to knock out borh our cars, including the removal and installation of my supercharger.
Overall this mod wasn't very difficult with the right tools; lowpro jack, jack-stands, long-ass 3/8 extensions, sockets with magnetic inserts, and swiveling sockets are extremely useful.)

We pretty much did what Innacurate did;



Except we utilized the OEM ground wire and Cut and crimped an 8 gauge, 1/2 inch ID ring terminal and placed it under the rear-most bolt;



As for the bolts; we picked up some M10 50mm hex bolts with 1.25 pitch. These fit perfectly. I believe the 45mm lenght would have been too short if using an additional flat washer and lockwasher, like we did.



I still consider these bolts temporary, since they are low grade and I HIGHLY recommend GRADE 5 or better. (I believe the OEM bolts are at least grade 5). I'll be picking up some of these within several days.

Hope this info is useful!

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

Good info but I would at least use Grade 8 bolts, possibly even higher.

Vietnastee

iTrader: (8)

Can someone help and tell me what's the tube that's connected underneath the oem front engine mount?

I removed the mount but I dunno what's connected underneath it and how to remove it.

rp_guy

i assume it's like the 2g hydro mounts; if so it's a vacuum tube that adjusts the hydraulics inside of the mount itself. you can plug that with some bolt or cap. make sure you do or you'll have a leak though

Inaccurate

This is correct.

cut-off the vacuum at the source. The source is indicated by the red arrow (hose approx 3/8 OD). Just put a rubber plug over the nipple coming out of the manifold.

Make sure you do NOT remove that bigger hose (approx 3/4 inch OD) next to it. That bigger hose is for the brake booster.




The ECU uses a solenoid (via a 12v signal) to control the softness of the oem mounts by sending vacuum to the mounts. That metal tube that you see is the vacuum hose.

You can see the hose running from the manifold to the solenoid. There are hoses running from the solenoid going to the mounts (front and rear, but not the side mount).

I plugged the nipple at the manifold and removed everything (all hoses and solenoid). I used a nylon tie-wrap to secure the electrical connector that had went to the solenoid.

Vietnastee

iTrader: (8)

Thank you rp_guy and Inaccurate.

ThezeSkillz

I originally relocated mine also, decide to go back on the mount though as that way I only spend $.50 on a single washer instead of $1.....

I should have enough to grab the SC with that being saved>>>>

and the beefed up gnd cables was already in the garage.....

Tripnbeats

my side mount bolts were snapped when i did my install and had 2 super heavy duty bolts made.....suckers still havent broken or bent like the stock ones. but after about a month i bought new stock ones so i dont get my balls busted at acura about something stupid. if u would take the strut tower bar off...the rear mount would take a lot less time. funny thing is....its hard to torque the rear mount top bolt down so after some driving.....pay close attention and go back to retighten the bolts just incase anything comes loose....its happened to me and it sucks. i was confused for about 20 mins going wtf is that damn noise? then i popped the hood and saw movement and knew what it was.

Tripnbeats

inaccurate goood info bro... never thought of it i just zip tied the hoses down to some wires.

nibalm3

SO AFTER ALL I WAS RIGHT...
I still have two nuts as spacers. hahah im lazy ss....
See you!

bimmer_w

this is how i did mine and on another thread someone calls it BS and wants me to do a video LOL. he stated that it is very impossible!