Hawk Pads as Brembo Replacement
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Hawk Pads as Brembo Replacement
Okay guys I just changed out my stock Brembo Pads w/ Hawks (http://www.import-racer.com/sku/HB453-585). Our Brembo braking systems are identical to thw Sub. WRX STI and Mitsu. Evo VIII. I also called Hawk to verify. Tire rack also recommends them however doesn't give model number (HB453-585).
I had 33,000 miles on the car and the brakes started sounding wierd (metal on metal), so I was thinking that they were worn. But when I pulled them it looked like they had another 5K miles to go. Can't explain why there was a metal/metal sound, maybe something was caught between the pad and the rotor.
I had 33,000 miles on the car and the brakes started sounding wierd (metal on metal), so I was thinking that they were worn. But when I pulled them it looked like they had another 5K miles to go. Can't explain why there was a metal/metal sound, maybe something was caught between the pad and the rotor.
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Originally Posted by cTLgo
I wonder if the rotors on the same
BTW, these Hawk brakes are very quiet and stop extremly well!
#7
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The pads are the Hawk HPS, for High Performance Street.
I ran a set on my NSX for street/track duty and have since switched to Cobalt Friction GTs on that car, but the Hawk HPS should be fine for a TL and I'll consider using them when my original pads are used up (in a few months it would appear).
I ran a set on my NSX for street/track duty and have since switched to Cobalt Friction GTs on that car, but the Hawk HPS should be fine for a TL and I'll consider using them when my original pads are used up (in a few months it would appear).
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#8
Nice work GoBig! I have the same metal/metal sound as though the brackets are sliding on the rotors. I have only 25,000 miles though.
Are the pads easy to install? Did you use a compressor to compressed the brake piston or do you twist the piston? (not sure if I'm using the right terminology). Also, did you change out the rear pads as well?
I'll try out those Hawks as well.
Are the pads easy to install? Did you use a compressor to compressed the brake piston or do you twist the piston? (not sure if I'm using the right terminology). Also, did you change out the rear pads as well?
I'll try out those Hawks as well.
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Originally Posted by hondasaurus
Nice work GoBig! I have the same metal/metal sound as though the brackets are sliding on the rotors. I have only 25,000 miles though.
Are the pads easy to install? Did you use a compressor to compressed the brake piston or do you twist the piston? (not sure if I'm using the right terminology). Also, did you change out the rear pads as well?
I'll try out those Hawks as well.
Are the pads easy to install? Did you use a compressor to compressed the brake piston or do you twist the piston? (not sure if I'm using the right terminology). Also, did you change out the rear pads as well?
I'll try out those Hawks as well.
Pull the old pad out and turn it 90 deg. so it's vertcal. Then use the old pad as a lever to gently push back the pistons, the rotor is the fulcrum. The pistons move slowly so be patient. Since the braking surface of the pad is up against the rotor, it will not harm the rotor because the pad is much softer than the rotor... assuming you have pad remaining.
I didn't change the rears. Usually rears last about twice as long, especially in front wheel drive cars.
#11
What's up with the brakes going so soon?
With my Prelude I tracked the car for two track days and just generally drove it hard and never had a problem. But with the TL my brakes are making that same metal to metal sound!
With my Prelude I tracked the car for two track days and just generally drove it hard and never had a problem. But with the TL my brakes are making that same metal to metal sound!
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I have 33.5k on my TL. I drive hard and brake hard.
My pads are still fine upon visual inspection. They are starting to make some noise, but not bad and they still bite. I should be able to get 35k, if not 40k out of them.
For an aggressive pad on big brakes that need to stop a 3500 pound car, I think that is pretty good. I hope I won't need to replace the rears for another 20k.
I would consider going OEM again, depending on how cheap I can get them compared to aftermarket pads like the Hawk HPS.
My pads are still fine upon visual inspection. They are starting to make some noise, but not bad and they still bite. I should be able to get 35k, if not 40k out of them.
For an aggressive pad on big brakes that need to stop a 3500 pound car, I think that is pretty good. I hope I won't need to replace the rears for another 20k.
I would consider going OEM again, depending on how cheap I can get them compared to aftermarket pads like the Hawk HPS.
#13
I guess it's the price you pay for performance stuff.
Anyhow I got prices in $CDN for replacement pads and what not.
The Hawk part # above costs $150 for the pair
the OEM replacements are $225
I'm gunna get the hawks.
I had yesterday off so I went to the dealer to complain about rattles and my seat memory and the grinding noise.
They quoted $700 for the brakes and rotors changed. Now I'm wondering if the rotors even need changing at all.
Anyhow I got prices in $CDN for replacement pads and what not.
The Hawk part # above costs $150 for the pair
the OEM replacements are $225
I'm gunna get the hawks.
I had yesterday off so I went to the dealer to complain about rattles and my seat memory and the grinding noise.
They quoted $700 for the brakes and rotors changed. Now I'm wondering if the rotors even need changing at all.
#14
When I look at Tirerack.com I get this message where the hawk pads are listed.
Is this true? are the OEM pads ceramic?
NOTE: Ceramic pad material is recommended by the vehicle manufacturer and may have been supplied as Original Equipment. Replacing ceramic brake pads with pads of any other material may result in more brake dust or increased brake-related noise than originally installed pads.
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Originally Posted by SlntSam
What's up with the brakes going so soon?
With my Prelude I tracked the car for two track days and just generally drove it hard and never had a problem. But with the TL my brakes are making that same metal to metal sound!
With my Prelude I tracked the car for two track days and just generally drove it hard and never had a problem. But with the TL my brakes are making that same metal to metal sound!
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Originally Posted by SlntSam
Got my Hawk Pads yesterday and will install them on Friday.
#18
Will do, thanks for the heads up. You mentioned about the piston moving back slowly. Is it slower than normal brakes? You just used a c-clamp to push it back with the old pad right?
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Take a screw driver and a towel. Place the towel over the roter. Then take the screw driver and place it in one of the penholes in the old pad and use the screw driver as a lever and the rotor as the fulcrum to pull the old pads out. Aleternating between penholes. When the pad is about 1/4 out, then pull it out by hand.
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Originally Posted by ludachrisvt
the hawk pads for the rears fit as well?
#24
SSM 6MT
I changed out my stock Brembo pads with the Hawk HPS on Friday. I bedded them in properly and they are great. I only had 10,000 miles on the car, but the Brembo pads were making a slight metal noise upon light braking and I couldn't stand the brake dust any longer.
In two days driving, there is significant less brake dust (including 8 x 60-10mph hard braking runs to bed in the pads) and the pads are very quiet. I just washed my car today so we'll see how the brake dust accumulates over the week. Thanks for the install tips!
In two days driving, there is significant less brake dust (including 8 x 60-10mph hard braking runs to bed in the pads) and the pads are very quiet. I just washed my car today so we'll see how the brake dust accumulates over the week. Thanks for the install tips!
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Originally Posted by Never Stock
I checked in a Wagner brake catalog and it lists the 03-04 accord & the 04 tl as having Ceramic NAO pads. I think the NAO means non asbestos organic.
Tim
Tim
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Okay so i've re-done my pads 3 times now and i'm still having the same problem (squealing)
Attempt 1: Took the old pads off put the new pads on (with the shims from the brembo) - Breaks Squal.
Attempt 2: Didn't know I had to apply stopsqueak gook on the back so took the pads off and did that
Attempt 3: Determined i put the two "squeak" pads (the pads with the little metal noise maker on it) on the right and two non squeak pads on the left, so I re-did that..
At any rate i am still having a problem with light pressure <20 mph causing a bad squeaking sound.. any ideas?
Attempt 1: Took the old pads off put the new pads on (with the shims from the brembo) - Breaks Squal.
Attempt 2: Didn't know I had to apply stopsqueak gook on the back so took the pads off and did that
Attempt 3: Determined i put the two "squeak" pads (the pads with the little metal noise maker on it) on the right and two non squeak pads on the left, so I re-did that..
At any rate i am still having a problem with light pressure <20 mph causing a bad squeaking sound.. any ideas?
#30
SSM 6MT
Originally Posted by kevin922
Okay so i've re-done my pads 3 times now and i'm still having the same problem (squealing)
Attempt 1: Took the old pads off put the new pads on (with the shims from the brembo) - Breaks Squal.
Attempt 2: Didn't know I had to apply stopsqueak gook on the back so took the pads off and did that
Attempt 3: Determined i put the two "squeak" pads (the pads with the little metal noise maker on it) on the right and two non squeak pads on the left, so I re-did that..
At any rate i am still having a problem with light pressure <20 mph causing a bad squeaking sound.. any ideas?
Attempt 1: Took the old pads off put the new pads on (with the shims from the brembo) - Breaks Squal.
Attempt 2: Didn't know I had to apply stopsqueak gook on the back so took the pads off and did that
Attempt 3: Determined i put the two "squeak" pads (the pads with the little metal noise maker on it) on the right and two non squeak pads on the left, so I re-did that..
At any rate i am still having a problem with light pressure <20 mph causing a bad squeaking sound.. any ideas?
#31
SSM 6MT
Originally Posted by RUTAKEN22
Do the HAWK pads dust as much as OE?
#32
Originally Posted by rstark
For a 6MT, absolutely not. I would say the brake dust is about 50% less (maybe even less). The rear brakes (stock pads) are hard to beat since they do not seem to dust at all.
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Originally Posted by ejn184
hi go big, if i wanna order for the hawk performance pads, i choose for 1 quantity right? im gonna order in tirerack.
#35
Ordered Hawks Pads
GoBig,
I got the pads as suggested by you. However, I'm having a hard time figuring out how to remove the pads. I can remove the caliper via the 2 bolts, but the pads are 4-ports which are connected to the caliper via 4 pins.
There are 4 10MM bolts that could be removed and open up the caliper to remove the pads. Is this the correct method? I don't recall having to do this before.
Thanks.
I got the pads as suggested by you. However, I'm having a hard time figuring out how to remove the pads. I can remove the caliper via the 2 bolts, but the pads are 4-ports which are connected to the caliper via 4 pins.
There are 4 10MM bolts that could be removed and open up the caliper to remove the pads. Is this the correct method? I don't recall having to do this before.
Thanks.
#36
Check out this thread from the 3G Garage
D-041: FRONT AND REAR BRAKE PAD INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=118283
D-041: FRONT AND REAR BRAKE PAD INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=118283
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Originally Posted by hondasaurus
GoBig,
I got the pads as suggested by you. However, I'm having a hard time figuring out how to remove the pads. I can remove the caliper via the 2 bolts, but the pads are 4-ports which are connected to the caliper via 4 pins.
There are 4 10MM bolts that could be removed and open up the caliper to remove the pads. Is this the correct method? I don't recall having to do this before.
Thanks.
I got the pads as suggested by you. However, I'm having a hard time figuring out how to remove the pads. I can remove the caliper via the 2 bolts, but the pads are 4-ports which are connected to the caliper via 4 pins.
There are 4 10MM bolts that could be removed and open up the caliper to remove the pads. Is this the correct method? I don't recall having to do this before.
Thanks.
No 10mm bolts need to be removed for pad replacement. If you need to replace the rotors, that's a different story. However, my rotors were in great shape, so I didn't do a thing to them.
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Originally Posted by hondasaurus
GoBig,
Did you use any special tools as suggested in the replacement guide thread posted by Ron A?
Thanks.
Did you use any special tools as suggested in the replacement guide thread posted by Ron A?
Thanks.
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hi GoBig, i already installed the HPS pads on front and rear , but it still have a noise when i hit the brake. but the braking is much better than the OEM. mine have 29500 KM.