Good aftermarket clutch
12-07-2011, 07:26 PM
#203
12-08-2011, 08:04 AM
#204
One reason I am leaning toward the OEM pressure plate is that it's self adjusting. How much difference over the life of a clutch will a non adjusting style pressure plate feel? I like the idea of getting something with more clamping feel, but I don't want to blow out my knee cap shifting with it for the next 100k miles.
12-08-2011, 02:25 PM
#205
Seems to me there are mixed feelings about whether you can use the lwfw with the stock clutch. It will work, it is just how will it last and could it cause other parts to fail?
to get money for a new beater
12-19-2011, 04:19 PM
#212
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
iTrader: (10)
Been driving the car around for a few weeks now and only have 300 miles so far. Stop and go traffic sucks right now cuz I can't even feel the engagement point. I have to always watch the needle when pulling out cuz any soft blip and I'm already at 2300rpms. (Not a bad thing). Plus I'm drivin around in boots which make my feet heavier. I know to break it in, it should be either engaged or not , not in between but its hard when the car wants to just take off on me. Another 500 miles and it should start engaging and grabbing better
Last edited by InFaMouSLink; 12-19-2011 at 04:21 PM.
12-19-2011, 08:49 PM
#213
^I know what you mean Alex. I was like that the first few hundren miles, but it's alot better now. As a matter of fact, it feels really close to stock, except when I get on it. It grabbs like crazy then. Also my low end power is back! My car is as peppy as before if not alittle better. I don't even have the chatter that much anymore. I'm really liking this clutch!
02-25-2012, 11:37 PM
#214
Update after 7k
Ok after a few months, my clutch and shifting has improved greatly. However the reasons for improvements are due to the following:
1. Clutch pedal adjustments - After playing with this for a while, I finally found a sweet spot in shifting. At first I had the pedal adjusted too high, which made alot of chatter while taking off. It was also kind of hard to get into gear while shifting. But once I adjusted it lower close to stock engagement, it was way better. I could avoid alot of chatter; plus the shifts were better.....but still not perfect.
2. Powerband change - Well this had nothing to do with the powertrain, however it helped alot. I switched out my XLR8 J-pipe and HFC for the RV6 V3 J-pipe. This seemed to change the low - mid powerband. Not only was the drivability better, it made the take-offs alot smoother. Hardly no chatter.
3. Shift Knob - This should have been top of my list. But I didn't realize how useful this was until I tried it myself. Awhile back I bought a 2011 TL-S shift knob, cause my old one leather was peeling. The new one was a bit smaller and lighter than the stock 04-08 6mt. So of course the shifting was worse, but didn't bother me as much with the stock clutch. But after having the CM3 installed, it really sucked. It was hard to performance quick shifts; felt like unsure of getting it in gear. It didn't hit me until I felt a weighted knob on another TL. Then I bought one, install it, and felt the magic! It shifts sooo much better now!
So after all of that, I'm much happier with the CM3 set up! Now lets see if it will last for a few....lol!
1. Clutch pedal adjustments - After playing with this for a while, I finally found a sweet spot in shifting. At first I had the pedal adjusted too high, which made alot of chatter while taking off. It was also kind of hard to get into gear while shifting. But once I adjusted it lower close to stock engagement, it was way better. I could avoid alot of chatter; plus the shifts were better.....but still not perfect.
2. Powerband change - Well this had nothing to do with the powertrain, however it helped alot. I switched out my XLR8 J-pipe and HFC for the RV6 V3 J-pipe. This seemed to change the low - mid powerband. Not only was the drivability better, it made the take-offs alot smoother. Hardly no chatter.
3. Shift Knob - This should have been top of my list. But I didn't realize how useful this was until I tried it myself. Awhile back I bought a 2011 TL-S shift knob, cause my old one leather was peeling. The new one was a bit smaller and lighter than the stock 04-08 6mt. So of course the shifting was worse, but didn't bother me as much with the stock clutch. But after having the CM3 installed, it really sucked. It was hard to performance quick shifts; felt like unsure of getting it in gear. It didn't hit me until I felt a weighted knob on another TL. Then I bought one, install it, and felt the magic! It shifts sooo much better now!
So after all of that, I'm much happier with the CM3 set up!
Now lets see if it will last for a few....lol!
02-26-2012, 12:22 AM
#215
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
iTrader: (10)
Good shit adrian... I have to lower my clutch pedal as well... Sometimes starting off, i release the pedal too late and my rpms have already dropped to say 1K while trying to feather it in and i get the car shaking and it feels like the clutch is grabbing then releasing then grabbing... Nothing good!! I'll do that tomorrow now that i think about it. Besides that, the grab is phenomenal but its def not a sit in traffic kind of clutch... Its either engaged or not. trying to feather it in while sitting in heavy traffic over and over and over and over and over again SUCKS!!! I catch myself revving to 2.2K sometimes for a smoother engagement (LWFW). for launching the car fast tho, OMG!!! it feel great!
02-26-2012, 12:25 AM
#216
11-06-2012, 01:34 PM
#219
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
iTrader: (10)
None of us can really say. i probably have around 1.5K miles on the clutch since installed. TotalAcura is on deployment (NAVY). Opel is good but he doesn't drive hard due to a motor cooling probably he needs to get fixed for the last year or two lol...
11-06-2012, 06:13 PM
#221
I am running the p2r disc with the stock PP and FW. I like the grip, but the on or off nature and chattering can become a pain in traffic. Once the clutch is engaged it has a lot of grip, but an aggressive shift or too much rpm on take off will cause it to slip more than the stock clutch would. I am going to switch it out for a more traditional style clutch ( XLR8 clutch ) with the idea that it will be easier to drive. The p2r disc should be able to hold much more power than you will ever make NA, the issue will be longevity and how you drive. I have about 20k on mine and it's slipping under mid boost and I am pretty easy on the car.
11-06-2012, 07:43 PM
#223
I am thinking stage 2 clutch. My issue with the stage 3 and up is mostly cost and that I don't think the tranny will hold much more than 450 WHP for long. In reality I don't drive the car that much so even if it didn't last more than 30k I would likely be ok with it. I don't see the p2r lasting too long with any kind of traffic in your commute.
11-06-2012, 10:50 PM
#225
My take is that stage 1 should hold 375-400 HP/TQ and stage 2 will be closer to 450 HP/TQ. I think the estimates of holding power are a little generous and don't see how the holding power would increase so little from one stage to the next. If I remember correctly stage one was 480 WTQ and if that is accurate, there would be no need to get any higher stage. I think stage 2 will be a nice compromise between semi harsh engagement and something that just slips under any boost. As it sits my clutch holds great until I hit 7-8 psi and it starts to slip. Sucks when you are really tearing along, but not an issue most of the time. I really just want better engagement and easier launches. The dampened flywheel and low pressure PP are just overwhelmed even with the sticky p2r disc.
11-07-2012, 04:10 AM
#226
I'm back in town now. I have over 9k on the fx300 and so far so good. I does chatter a bit during launches, and the shifts during spirited driving could be a little smoother. Other than that, it's not bad. But Hi speed mention the better engagement and easier launches would be nice.
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