Good aftermarket clutch
05-23-2010, 09:17 PM
#41
Under construction
iTrader: (3)
Clutchmaster's is the only option right now for the Base TL M/T; the TL-S doesn't have any options yet. If you are going FI I'd recommend the Stage 3 or 4. We have pricing on the website if interested: http://store.excelerateperformance.com
On a side note, we are working on a clutch setup also. We are using a company to manufacture a setup for us that we use to make clutches for our high hp German customers. We should have our prototype in a month or so.
On a side note, we are working on a clutch setup also. We are using a company to manufacture a setup for us that we use to make clutches for our high hp German customers. We should have our prototype in a month or so.
05-24-2010, 12:09 AM
#43
94 DC4 RS LSV/Turbo
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: New York City | Stuck in Traffic
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illstrategy has an 07 tl-s and has been running the spec clutch since he got his block swapped out which was thousands of miles ago... but I'm just saying... I drove it and it felt good
07-26-2010, 09:37 PM
#59
TTT, Clutchmaster FX300 (Stage 3) clutch finally installed.
UDPATES:
Make: Clutchmaster
Model: FX300 w/ Fiber tough Disc
Price: $1250
Labor: $470 after tax
Its been nearly 4 days since I got the car back. I've already put 300 miles on the car, little over halfway break-in point (500mi.) The clutch pedal is little lower to the ground, roughly around 4inches. Surprisingly, the clutch feels much softer than I expected, although there is more pressure in the pedal when engaged.
It will definitely take me a few days of getting use to. I can no longer shift smoothly in each gear. Shifting into gears takes more force then before. It doesn't slide like butter. At times, I find it hard shifting into "1st" and "reverse", as if the gears doesn't exist.
I don’t know if it’s because the clutch hasn’t been broken in, but it worries me. The shop used Honda Tranny Fluid. The clutch does chatter, but at minimum. Other than that, I guess I'll have to wait until I reach the break-in point before I can really say how I feel about the clutch.
Overall, I love the new feel. The clutch definitely bites quicker!
UDPATES:
Make: Clutchmaster
Model: FX300 w/ Fiber tough Disc
Price: $1250
Labor: $470 after tax
Its been nearly 4 days since I got the car back. I've already put 300 miles on the car, little over halfway break-in point (500mi.) The clutch pedal is little lower to the ground, roughly around 4inches. Surprisingly, the clutch feels much softer than I expected, although there is more pressure in the pedal when engaged.
It will definitely take me a few days of getting use to. I can no longer shift smoothly in each gear. Shifting into gears takes more force then before. It doesn't slide like butter. At times, I find it hard shifting into "1st" and "reverse", as if the gears doesn't exist.
I don’t know if it’s because the clutch hasn’t been broken in, but it worries me. The shop used Honda Tranny Fluid. The clutch does chatter, but at minimum. Other than that, I guess I'll have to wait until I reach the break-in point before I can really say how I feel about the clutch.
Overall, I love the new feel. The clutch definitely bites quicker!
07-26-2010, 11:53 PM
#62
Under construction
iTrader: (3)
Keep us updated man! Glad to see you finally got this installed.
I'm just worried about how you said sometimes it's hard to shift into 1st and reverse, I hope it's something that goes away cuz I really want this!
I'm just worried about how you said sometimes it's hard to shift into 1st and reverse, I hope it's something that goes away cuz I really want this!
07-27-2010, 02:21 AM
#63
TTT, Clutchmaster FX300 (Stage 3) clutch finally installed.
UDPATES:
Make: Clutchmaster
Model: FX300 w/ Fiber tough Disc
Price: $1250
Labor: $470 after tax
Its been nearly 4 days since I got the car back. I've already put 300 miles on the car, little over halfway break-in point (500mi.) The clutch pedal is little lower to the ground, roughly around 4inches. Surprisingly, the clutch feels much softer than I expected, although there is more pressure in the pedal when engaged.
It will definitely take me a few days of getting use to. I can no longer shift smoothly in each gear. Shifting into gears takes more force then before. It doesn't slide like butter. At times, I find it hard shifting into "1st" and "reverse", as if the gears doesn't exist.
I don’t know if it’s because the clutch hasn’t been broken in, but it worries me. The shop used Honda Tranny Fluid. The clutch does chatter, but at minimum. Other than that, I guess I'll have to wait until I reach the break-in point before I can really say how I feel about the clutch.
Overall, I love the new feel. The clutch definitely bites quicker!
UDPATES:
Make: Clutchmaster
Model: FX300 w/ Fiber tough Disc
Price: $1250
Labor: $470 after tax
Its been nearly 4 days since I got the car back. I've already put 300 miles on the car, little over halfway break-in point (500mi.) The clutch pedal is little lower to the ground, roughly around 4inches. Surprisingly, the clutch feels much softer than I expected, although there is more pressure in the pedal when engaged.
It will definitely take me a few days of getting use to. I can no longer shift smoothly in each gear. Shifting into gears takes more force then before. It doesn't slide like butter. At times, I find it hard shifting into "1st" and "reverse", as if the gears doesn't exist.
I don’t know if it’s because the clutch hasn’t been broken in, but it worries me. The shop used Honda Tranny Fluid. The clutch does chatter, but at minimum. Other than that, I guess I'll have to wait until I reach the break-in point before I can really say how I feel about the clutch.
Overall, I love the new feel. The clutch definitely bites quicker!
glad you went with the fiber tough. i went through a few kevlar disc, until i had them develope one with different material.
as for not getting it smoothly in gear, did you adjust the pedal height properly AFTER getting the clutch installed? that might be your problem right there
07-27-2010, 10:52 AM
#64
glad you went with the fiber tough. i went through a few kevlar disc, until i had them develope one with different material.
as for not getting it smoothly in gear, did you adjust the pedal height properly AFTER getting the clutch installed? that might be your problem right there
I adjusted the pedal height today, took it for a test-drive and immedately noticed a huge difference in shifting. Getting into gears doesn't require much force anymore. THANK YOU SOOO MUCH for the tip!
DIY: Clutch Pedal Adjustment/Engagement
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...t+clutch+pedal
Ah, I'm so relieved now... I was worried that it might have been the installation.
Another question... Since the shop used Honda Tranny Fluid, should I leave it be or should I switch to GM Synchromesh?
11-19-2010, 09:44 PM
#66
^ +1
BUT!!!!! DO NOT OPT FOR THE SEGMENTED KEVLAR!!!!
for the stage 3,. clutchmasters has a new option for us which is a full face 8 puc made out of fiber tough OR ceramic. i opted for the fiber tough, which doesnt have the harsh engagment characteristics of the ceramic, but is more durable in the long run. you also have to be REALLY carefull of how you break in the ceramic material too, otherwise it wont last either.
the kevlar is ok for short term, but doesnt have good longevity. ive gone through enough of these disc's to know this.. i worked with them to get something else made, cause the kevlar just wasnt cutting it =/
heres a pic of my newest kit. stage 3, with 8 puc fiber tough sprung hub disc, stage 3 PP and LWFW.
just to compare, heres a pic of my kits in the past with the segmented kevlar disc. worked great, but was only able to get a good 20k out of it each time.
Josh, you may want to start recommending the fiber tough option, for the ones interested in the kit
BUT!!!!! DO NOT OPT FOR THE SEGMENTED KEVLAR!!!!
for the stage 3,. clutchmasters has a new option for us which is a full face 8 puc made out of fiber tough OR ceramic. i opted for the fiber tough, which doesnt have the harsh engagment characteristics of the ceramic, but is more durable in the long run. you also have to be REALLY carefull of how you break in the ceramic material too, otherwise it wont last either.
the kevlar is ok for short term, but doesnt have good longevity. ive gone through enough of these disc's to know this.. i worked with them to get something else made, cause the kevlar just wasnt cutting it =/
heres a pic of my newest kit. stage 3, with 8 puc fiber tough sprung hub disc, stage 3 PP and LWFW.
just to compare, heres a pic of my kits in the past with the segmented kevlar disc. worked great, but was only able to get a good 20k out of it each time.
Josh, you may want to start recommending the fiber tough option, for the ones interested in the kit
, other then the number of pucks, or why they would change itanyways you mention kevlar, ceramic, and fiber tough ons, how do you tell the exact difference....
also i got the ceramic one, would that happen to be good then lol....
btw i also have been talking to jose
01-01-2011, 12:42 PM
#69
HOLD UP, WHAT???, linky PLEASEedit: found info on it at: http://www.v6 performance.net/forums/7g-performance-discussion/208851-new-product-tl-accord.html
delete the added space once after V6 once you have clicked on it (f@cking forum rules)
or https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/new-clutch-horizon-801693/
Last edited by friesm2000; 01-01-2011 at 12:50 PM.
07-08-2011, 08:44 AM
#71
Burning Brakes
Cm does offer a clutch kit jandr also offers a twin disc tilton unit complete which is unbeatable for the cost and holds up 750 lb tq ,a few forum members is running the unit already smooth engagements livable for daily use ..
07-09-2011, 07:47 AM
#73
I have a clutch masters FX300 kit...with the Kevlar Disc...The engagement of the Pressure Plate is very good, feels almost like stock...
Now the Disc it self? Its a piece of shit...Not even 1,500 miles of usage and its all ready slipping...Specially from 3rd to 4th gear...Now its happening in second gear...I mean come on...the stock set up was even better.
My last dyno was 296whp/262lbs on the MT 08 Type S, on stock clutch. I am considering from CM the 8 puck fiber or just go straight with the sprung 6 puck. (Technically a FX400 set up).
Currently I am porting my IM to match the PnPed intake runners and to match my bored TB to the IM opening. My p2r spacer is also bieng matched with all 3 heatshield gaskets. We are expecting some gains to exceed 300whp N/A...I am still concerned and debating on the final decision to be made on my disc...I have to tell you...I was not happy with the Kevlar disc performance from CM at all...
Now the Disc it self? Its a piece of shit...Not even 1,500 miles of usage and its all ready slipping...Specially from 3rd to 4th gear...Now its happening in second gear...I mean come on...the stock set up was even better.
My last dyno was 296whp/262lbs on the MT 08 Type S, on stock clutch. I am considering from CM the 8 puck fiber or just go straight with the sprung 6 puck. (Technically a FX400 set up).
Currently I am porting my IM to match the PnPed intake runners and to match my bored TB to the IM opening. My p2r spacer is also bieng matched with all 3 heatshield gaskets. We are expecting some gains to exceed 300whp N/A...I am still concerned and debating on the final decision to be made on my disc...I have to tell you...I was not happy with the Kevlar disc performance from CM at all...
07-17-2011, 10:12 PM
#74
I've had the FX300 installed for nearly 13,000 miles now.. I want to say the pressure plate is acting up. At times at a complete stop, I will engage the clutch and it doesnt return with pressure (like a dead pedel without pressure). I would have to manually slip my foot behind the clutch pedel and raise it up to build pressure.
Once this clutch completely wears out, I'll definitely be going back to OEM.
Once this clutch completely wears out, I'll definitely be going back to OEM.
09-16-2011, 10:44 PM
#76
I've had the FX300 installed for nearly 13,000 miles now.. I want to say the pressure plate is acting up. At times at a complete stop, I will engage the clutch and it doesnt return with pressure (like a dead pedel without pressure). I would have to manually slip my foot behind the clutch pedel and raise it up to build pressure.
Once this clutch completely wears out, I'll definitely be going back to OEM.
Once this clutch completely wears out, I'll definitely be going back to OEM.
09-19-2011, 08:57 AM
#77
^^Mine too is slipping, 253000km on it, I will replace the disk on monday with a 6puck NON-sprung disk and probably will have to get the FW machined depending on how it looks when we drop the transmission.
I will let you guys know with pictures what I did and the results. The reason why I won't go with the P2R, is the axle braking factor...its my daily driver and I also do some drag race once in a while....
So I need better then OEM, but not to the axle braking point
I will let you guys know with pictures what I did and the results. The reason why I won't go with the P2R, is the axle braking factor...its my daily driver and I also do some drag race once in a while....
So I need better then OEM, but not to the axle braking point
09-19-2011, 09:13 AM
#78
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
iTrader: (10)
i broke my driver axle 2 weeks ago (replaced 3 months ago OEM) shifting from 1st to 2nd on a stock "bad" clutch and im in the market for a new clutch. if 13000miles is all you getting out of the fx300 then i dont want it... What other alternatives are there besides stock? no SPEC, Excelerates clutch still needs a testers, and jandr tilton clutch is 1900...
09-19-2011, 10:45 AM
#79
All motor
Check my thread in the Black Market! FX200 for sale! I was told it's brand new from a forum member, but apparently the PP was used for a couple thousand miles according to 2 techs? So I can't really say, because I don't know how to tell.
09-19-2011, 10:49 AM
#80
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
iTrader: (10)
I've had the FX300 installed for nearly 13,000 miles now.. I want to say the pressure plate is acting up. At times at a complete stop, I will engage the clutch and it doesnt return with pressure (like a dead pedel without pressure). I would have to manually slip my foot behind the clutch pedel and raise it up to build pressure.
Once this clutch completely wears out, I'll definitely be going back to OEM.
Once this clutch completely wears out, I'll definitely be going back to OEM.