Good aftermarket clutch
09-19-2011, 06:00 PM
#81
^^Mine too is slipping, 253000km on it, I will replace the disk on monday with a 6puck NON-sprung disk and probably will have to get the FW machined depending on how it looks when we drop the transmission.
I will let you guys know with pictures what I did and the results. The reason why I won't go with the P2R, is the axle braking factor...its my daily driver and I also do some drag race once in a while....
So I need better then OEM, but not to the axle braking point
I will let you guys know with pictures what I did and the results. The reason why I won't go with the P2R, is the axle braking factor...its my daily driver and I also do some drag race once in a while....
So I need better then OEM, but not to the axle braking point
09-19-2011, 06:36 PM
#82
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
iTrader: (10)
I was talking to excelerate today about the fx300 and I went to copy that post and then I reread it. Dead pedal has nothing to do with the clutch. Its the hydraulic system. He might have a leaky sc or mc which gets a little air when he pushes the clutch causing it not to return. Check behind the clutch pedal and see if you got an fluid there where its coming from the mc thru the firewall. Then check the sc, move the boots around and ensure no fluids. If no signs of anything bleed the clutch.
I am buying the cm st 3 with fiber in about a hour if that helps.
Also, I read 2 different views on the LWFW with the LW UR pulley. Says its one or the other but someone said you can use both since the PP from CM is stronger. Anyone?
I am buying the cm st 3 with fiber in about a hour if that helps.
Also, I read 2 different views on the LWFW with the LW UR pulley. Says its one or the other but someone said you can use both since the PP from CM is stronger. Anyone?
Last edited by InFaMouSLink; 09-19-2011 at 06:38 PM.
09-20-2011, 04:15 AM
#84
I was talking to excelerate today about the fx300 and I went to copy that post and then I reread it. Dead pedal has nothing to do with the clutch. Its the hydraulic system. He might have a leaky sc or mc which gets a little air when he pushes the clutch causing it not to return. Check behind the clutch pedal and see if you got an fluid there where its coming from the mc thru the firewall. Then check the sc, move the boots around and ensure no fluids. If no signs of anything bleed the clutch.
I am buying the cm st 3 with fiber in about a hour if that helps.
Also, I read 2 different views on the LWFW with the LW UR pulley. Says its one or the other but someone said you can use both since the PP from CM is stronger. Anyone?
I am buying the cm st 3 with fiber in about a hour if that helps.
Also, I read 2 different views on the LWFW with the LW UR pulley. Says its one or the other but someone said you can use both since the PP from CM is stronger. Anyone?
Wish you luck man! Hopefully I'll be there soon...
09-20-2011, 06:58 AM
#85
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
iTrader: (10)
i might have a spare stock pulley from my cousins TL that he returned. i'll let you know.
i was reading threads about that. Heeltoe says its fine to leave it there, Excelerate says no, and people say no. All this from a thread 2 years ago. ( heeltoes AASCO thread). General consensus is not enough momentum so higher revs just to make it move... Opel said something about balancer on the stock pulley, 04sedancoupe said LWFW but no LW pulley...
All this info from two years ago...
Update on this Excelerate, heeltoe, Opel, 04accordcoupe, IHC.. Someone get them in this thread please.
i was reading threads about that. Heeltoe says its fine to leave it there, Excelerate says no, and people say no. All this from a thread 2 years ago. ( heeltoes AASCO thread). General consensus is not enough momentum so higher revs just to make it move... Opel said something about balancer on the stock pulley, 04sedancoupe said LWFW but no LW pulley...
All this info from two years ago...
Update on this Excelerate, heeltoe, Opel, 04accordcoupe, IHC.. Someone get them in this thread please.
09-20-2011, 10:22 AM
#86
i might have a spare stock pulley from my cousins TL that he returned. i'll let you know.
i was reading threads about that. Heeltoe says its fine to leave it there, Excelerate says no, and people say no. All this from a thread 2 years ago. ( heeltoes AASCO thread). General consensus is not enough momentum so higher revs just to make it move... Opel said something about balancer on the stock pulley, 04sedancoupe said LWFW but no LW pulley...
All this info from two years ago...
Update on this Excelerate, heeltoe, Opel, 04accordcoupe, IHC.. Someone get them in this thread please.
i was reading threads about that. Heeltoe says its fine to leave it there, Excelerate says no, and people say no. All this from a thread 2 years ago. ( heeltoes AASCO thread). General consensus is not enough momentum so higher revs just to make it move... Opel said something about balancer on the stock pulley, 04sedancoupe said LWFW but no LW pulley...
All this info from two years ago...
Update on this Excelerate, heeltoe, Opel, 04accordcoupe, IHC.. Someone get them in this thread please.
09-20-2011, 11:24 AM
#87
All motor
Anyone want to take a stab at my problem? I've been without my car for over a week now since it's been sitting at the shop. The Stage 2 CM kit I had bought seems to fit, but not work. The car goes into gear when it's off, but not when it's on. The pedal feels softer and more "linear" than stock, but it could be because it's not engaging fully, or disengaging. I'm not really sure which.
The tech bled the system more than twice and the same problem still arises. I was told to try adjusting the clutch pedal? I will see if the tech tries that, otherwise Idk what else to do.
I was also told to put 3mm washers behind the pivot point, but I'd rather not have washers in my tranny.
Anyone?
The tech bled the system more than twice and the same problem still arises. I was told to try adjusting the clutch pedal? I will see if the tech tries that, otherwise Idk what else to do.
I was also told to put 3mm washers behind the pivot point, but I'd rather not have washers in my tranny.
Anyone?
09-20-2011, 04:33 PM
#89
Anyone want to take a stab at my problem? I've been without my car for over a week now since it's been sitting at the shop. The Stage 2 CM kit I had bought seems to fit, but not work. The car goes into gear when it's off, but not when it's on. The pedal feels softer and more "linear" than stock, but it could be because it's not engaging fully, or disengaging. I'm not really sure which.
The tech bled the system more than twice and the same problem still arises. I was told to try adjusting the clutch pedal? I will see if the tech tries that, otherwise Idk what else to do.
I was also told to put 3mm washers behind the pivot point, but I'd rather not have washers in my tranny. Anyone?
The tech bled the system more than twice and the same problem still arises. I was told to try adjusting the clutch pedal? I will see if the tech tries that, otherwise Idk what else to do.
I was also told to put 3mm washers behind the pivot point, but I'd rather not have washers in my tranny.
Anyone?Not sure who gave you the idea of putting washers in there but that's definitely not the right thing to do.
Check to see if you are getting the proper throw at the slave. It's possible you have either a bad MC or SC.
09-21-2011, 09:46 AM
#90
All motor
Bleeding can be tricky, what method is he using? You have to be careful with adjusting the pedal as you don't want to adjust it so there is constant pressure being applied.
Not sure who gave you the idea of putting washers in there but that's definitely not the right thing to do.
Check to see if you are getting the proper throw at the slave. It's possible you have either a bad MC or SC.
Not sure who gave you the idea of putting washers in there but that's definitely not the right thing to do.
Check to see if you are getting the proper throw at the slave. It's possible you have either a bad MC or SC.
He already put the stock clutch back and I should be getting my car back either late tonight or tomorrow. He said the slave looked bad, but it was fine with my stock clutch. Maybe during install it got f'ed somehow? Idk.The best thing is I had a slave in the trunk with the check valve already taken out, but with all the problems the tech went through, I didn't even bother asking because he did so much already. If that was the issue though, I'm gonna be so pissed.
He said the "notches" on the disk weren't even on each side like the stock clutch was. He said one protruded more than the other, and he thought right away before he even attempted installation that it wasn't going to work.
09-24-2011, 04:53 PM
#91
Three Wheelin'
You guys need to stop banging through gears all day everyday, and maybe your clutches would last a little lol. Just remember that if your clutches held a lot more than they do, your trannies would be in pieces in no time.
I dont know how a lot of people shift, but if you avoid full throttle shifts, hard launches, and rev match your down shifts as much as possible, clutches will go a long way.
Do any of the above too often, and I promise you, none is going to last.
I dont recommend using both, the LWP and LWF, simply because the LWP is a harmonic damper and its there to aid the crankshaft cancel out harmonic vibrations that occur at each power stroke.
I am not saying that something will happen to your motor if you dont use the stock pulley either. I'm just simply stating one of its functions.
If there's anything to gain, it would be from the LWF far more than LWP. I personally like the LWF. The way the car shifts (despite some people's claims about it not being smooth. They simply can't shift), rev match shifting, the deletion of the dual mass FW is a big plus. The replaceable friction plate also a big plus, since you never have to change the FW, etc.
Aside from all this, you really need some weight on the crank to maintain some inertia, another reason for the stock pulley to remain.
But if someone wants to choose keeping their LWP and not get the LWF, IMO it would be a loss.
I dont know how a lot of people shift, but if you avoid full throttle shifts, hard launches, and rev match your down shifts as much as possible, clutches will go a long way.
Do any of the above too often, and I promise you, none is going to last.
I dont recommend using both, the LWP and LWF, simply because the LWP is a harmonic damper and its there to aid the crankshaft cancel out harmonic vibrations that occur at each power stroke.
I am not saying that something will happen to your motor if you dont use the stock pulley either. I'm just simply stating one of its functions.
If there's anything to gain, it would be from the LWF far more than LWP. I personally like the LWF. The way the car shifts (despite some people's claims about it not being smooth. They simply can't shift), rev match shifting, the deletion of the dual mass FW is a big plus. The replaceable friction plate also a big plus, since you never have to change the FW, etc.
Aside from all this, you really need some weight on the crank to maintain some inertia, another reason for the stock pulley to remain.
But if someone wants to choose keeping their LWP and not get the LWF, IMO it would be a loss.
09-24-2011, 06:38 PM
#92
All very good points......however my concern would be drivability. I have to drive in traffic everyday during the week. Even though this sucks in a stick, the stock clutch is very easy to manage in traffic. My stock clutch has lasted over 147k so far, so i do know alittle something about driving a stick. Plus I've had the pulley on for years.
I definitely would like to gain more performance out of my car, but not the cost of drivability. I haven't heard much about that with everyone on aftermarket clutches and FW. The only thing I heard was a bit of chatter at take off and a little loss of low end torque. I love the torque my car puts down now! I can shift my car to 6th gear from start to 40 mph in normal driving with plenty of momentum and drivability. And my mileage is great! How different with a CM3 and LWFW be compared to that? Especially if I change my pulley back to stock?
I definitely would like to gain more performance out of my car, but not the cost of drivability. I haven't heard much about that with everyone on aftermarket clutches and FW. The only thing I heard was a bit of chatter at take off and a little loss of low end torque. I love the torque my car puts down now! I can shift my car to 6th gear from start to 40 mph in normal driving with plenty of momentum and drivability. And my mileage is great! How different with a CM3 and LWFW be compared to that? Especially if I change my pulley back to stock?
09-24-2011, 07:13 PM
#93
Three Wheelin'
All very good points......however my concern would be drivability. I have to drive in traffic everyday during the week. Even though this sucks in a stick, the stock clutch is very easy to manage in traffic. My stock clutch has lasted over 147k so far, so i do know alittle something about driving a stick. Plus I've had the pulley on for years.
I definitely would like to gain more performance out of my car, but not the cost of drivability. I haven't heard much about that with everyone on aftermarket clutches and FW. The only thing I heard was a bit of chatter at take off and a little loss of low end torque. I love the torque my car puts down now! I can shift my car to 6th gear from start to 40 mph in normal driving with plenty of momentum and drivability. And my mileage is great! How different with a CM3 and LWFW be compared to that? Especially if I change my pulley back to stock?
I definitely would like to gain more performance out of my car, but not the cost of drivability. I haven't heard much about that with everyone on aftermarket clutches and FW. The only thing I heard was a bit of chatter at take off and a little loss of low end torque. I love the torque my car puts down now! I can shift my car to 6th gear from start to 40 mph in normal driving with plenty of momentum and drivability. And my mileage is great! How different with a CM3 and LWFW be compared to that? Especially if I change my pulley back to stock?
Honestly, I drive in NYC traffic everyday, and this clutch (CM stageIII) isn't something to fear about not getting used to. It is very simple, and in no way near the harshness anyone may have described.
Chatter isn't there if you take off properly, with the right amount of rev.
Torque isn't lost, and can't be lost. What happens is that the power transfer to get off the line is very very slightly reduced due to rotational mass shrinking down, hence losing a slight amount of momentum. To say it in simple words, the engine needs to be reved up very slightly higher to reduce the bogging. We're talking in a few hundreds of rpm.
Meanwhile...while in gear, at any given rpm, it takes less power to accelerate the lighter weight rotational mass. So in other words, there isn't any power loss. And MPG shouldn't be affected, since in the end you really simply removed some weight off the motor.
I've only had the CM setup for about 3000 miles so far...haven't really beaten on it, but there's no way on this earth that I would ever ever ever consider a stock clutch. Even for a stock car, the stock clutch is absolutely garbage.
All the guys that are convinced that all the stock clutch needs is a better disc, don't really understand the stock pressure plate very well.
You can sandwich the greatest most grabbing super glue like disc in between the stock PP and the FW, and it will not work for very long. Clamping force needs to be there, period. Stock PP just doesn't have it. Not even mentioning the self adjusting mechanism that makes it even more prone to failure once coupled with a high performance disc in a high output engine.
Like 04Accordcpe (Sean) has said time after time, and even posted pictures of the blown stock PP, as well as the PP from SPEC, I too have had the same things happen. I wish I took pictures of the last setup. It was disgusting.
09-24-2011, 07:24 PM
#94
Honestly, I drive in NYC traffic everyday, and this clutch (CM stageIII) isn't something to fear about not getting used to. It is very simple, and in no way near the harshness anyone may have described.
Chatter isn't there if you take off properly, with the right amount of rev.
Torque isn't lost, and can't be lost. What happens is that the power transfer to get off the line is very very slightly reduced due to rotational mass shrinking down, hence losing a slight amount of momentum. To say it in simple words, the engine needs to be reved up very slightly higher to reduce the bogging. We're talking in a few hundreds of rpm.
Meanwhile...while in gear, at any given rpm, it takes less power to accelerate the lighter weight rotational mass. So in other words, there isn't any power loss. And MPG shouldn't be affected, since in the end you really simply removed some weight off the motor.
I've only had the CM setup for about 3000 miles so far...haven't really beaten on it, but there's no way on this earth that I would ever ever ever consider a stock clutch. Even for a stock car, the stock clutch is absolutely garbage.
All the guys that are convinced that all the stock clutch needs is a better disc, don't really understand the stock pressure plate very well.
You can sandwich the greatest most grabbing super glue like disc in between the stock PP and the FW, and it will not work for very long. Clamping force needs to be there, period. Stock PP just doesn't have it. Not even mentioning the self adjusting mechanism that makes it even more prone to failure once coupled with a high performance disc in a high output engine.
Like 04Accordcpe (Sean) has said time after time, and even posted pictures of the blown stock PP, as well as the PP from SPEC, I too have had the same things happen. I wish I took pictures of the last setup. It was disgusting.
Chatter isn't there if you take off properly, with the right amount of rev.
Torque isn't lost, and can't be lost. What happens is that the power transfer to get off the line is very very slightly reduced due to rotational mass shrinking down, hence losing a slight amount of momentum. To say it in simple words, the engine needs to be reved up very slightly higher to reduce the bogging. We're talking in a few hundreds of rpm.
Meanwhile...while in gear, at any given rpm, it takes less power to accelerate the lighter weight rotational mass. So in other words, there isn't any power loss. And MPG shouldn't be affected, since in the end you really simply removed some weight off the motor.
I've only had the CM setup for about 3000 miles so far...haven't really beaten on it, but there's no way on this earth that I would ever ever ever consider a stock clutch. Even for a stock car, the stock clutch is absolutely garbage.
All the guys that are convinced that all the stock clutch needs is a better disc, don't really understand the stock pressure plate very well.
You can sandwich the greatest most grabbing super glue like disc in between the stock PP and the FW, and it will not work for very long. Clamping force needs to be there, period. Stock PP just doesn't have it. Not even mentioning the self adjusting mechanism that makes it even more prone to failure once coupled with a high performance disc in a high output engine.
Like 04Accordcpe (Sean) has said time after time, and even posted pictures of the blown stock PP, as well as the PP from SPEC, I too have had the same things happen. I wish I took pictures of the last setup. It was disgusting.
09-24-2011, 09:32 PM
#95
Three Wheelin'
And keep in mind that these things are machines, moving parts, and they tend to break...I know there's failures among a lot of us with new performance products and whatnot, but it's part of the process. While I speak good about the CM setup, along with some few other members, I don't deny the fact that there's some that are completely disappointed with it.
So in the end, one should still use their own judgement.
But do I aim towards CM as a good setup currently, or the best of the bunch? Yes I do.
There won't ever be an indestructible clutch setup, and even if there would, you're going to start breaking the next chain link down the line. Once we know our clutches will hold, last and so on, we will beat our cars even harder. So knowing that something might actually break, kinda pushes us into the conservative side a little.
All I'm saying, stop beating the freaking things from every traffic light lol
09-25-2011, 08:50 AM
#96
If you don't have the stock pulley, you can still install and run the LWF and see how you like it, and then decide if you should add the stock pulley back. You may and will notice that when you come to a stop, or stop and go traffic, as you disengage the clutch while decelerating, car might and will sometimes shut off lol. It hasn't happened to me, but it gets on the verge to. I'm only saying this so you can get an idea of about what you might expect, with the addition of the LWP along with the LWF.....But for someone to decide on getting the clutch without the FW because they have the LWP already, just makes no sense to me. They're really 2 different things.
And keep in mind that these things are machines, moving parts, and they tend to break...I know there's failures among a lot of us with new performance products and whatnot, but it's part of the process. While I speak good about the CM setup, along with some few other members, I don't deny the fact that there's some that are completely disappointed with it.
So in the end, one should still use their own judgement.
But do I aim towards CM as a good setup currently, or the best of the bunch? Yes I do.
There won't ever be an indestructible clutch setup, and even if there would, you're going to start breaking the next chain link down the line. Once we know our clutches will hold, last and so on, we will beat our cars even harder. So knowing that something might actually break, kinda pushes us into the conservative side a little.
All I'm saying, stop beating the freaking things from every traffic light lol
And keep in mind that these things are machines, moving parts, and they tend to break...I know there's failures among a lot of us with new performance products and whatnot, but it's part of the process. While I speak good about the CM setup, along with some few other members, I don't deny the fact that there's some that are completely disappointed with it.
So in the end, one should still use their own judgement.
But do I aim towards CM as a good setup currently, or the best of the bunch? Yes I do.
There won't ever be an indestructible clutch setup, and even if there would, you're going to start breaking the next chain link down the line. Once we know our clutches will hold, last and so on, we will beat our cars even harder. So knowing that something might actually break, kinda pushes us into the conservative side a little.
All I'm saying, stop beating the freaking things from every traffic light lol
09-25-2011, 02:48 PM
#97
Three Wheelin'
Understood...and you shouldn't have any problems as long as you're not beating the car like you just stole it everyday.
I want to also add in addition to what I said earlier, about how some believe that all the stock clutch needs is a good disc... I did have a ceramic 6 puck coupled with stock PP and FW (that's what SPEC is), which held fine once in gear, and most clutches would with moderate power, even the stock one, unless of course they're badly worn. But the problem is when shifting, if the clamping force isn't there, there's going to be massive slippage, and while having a good disc, say ceramic...given that it's broken-in properly, it wont take long for it to destroy both the PP and FW, and slippage to get worse and worse. This is exactly what happened with my setup. It held fine once in gear, but trying a quick upshift (even not so harsh of one), it would slip like wet soap.
Same thing you can apply to downshifts, which is something a lot of guys barely ever do with rev match. You wouldn't call this slippage, but unnecessary friction. Again, not enough clamping force causes a lot slip, from the sudden speed difference between the transmission and the engine. A heavier FW just adds to this for the worst, since more mass requires more energy for direction change...and so forth, I'm sure you get the picture.
I want to also add in addition to what I said earlier, about how some believe that all the stock clutch needs is a good disc... I did have a ceramic 6 puck coupled with stock PP and FW (that's what SPEC is), which held fine once in gear, and most clutches would with moderate power, even the stock one, unless of course they're badly worn. But the problem is when shifting, if the clamping force isn't there, there's going to be massive slippage, and while having a good disc, say ceramic...given that it's broken-in properly, it wont take long for it to destroy both the PP and FW, and slippage to get worse and worse. This is exactly what happened with my setup. It held fine once in gear, but trying a quick upshift (even not so harsh of one), it would slip like wet soap.
Same thing you can apply to downshifts, which is something a lot of guys barely ever do with rev match. You wouldn't call this slippage, but unnecessary friction. Again, not enough clamping force causes a lot slip, from the sudden speed difference between the transmission and the engine. A heavier FW just adds to this for the worst, since more mass requires more energy for direction change...and so forth, I'm sure you get the picture.
09-25-2011, 02:54 PM
#98
Understood...and you shouldn't have any problems as long as you're not beating the car like you just stole it everyday.
I want to also add in addition to what I said earlier, about how some believe that all the stock clutch needs is a good disc... I did have a ceramic 6 puck coupled with stock PP and FW (that's what SPEC is), which held fine once in gear, and most clutches would with moderate power, even the stock one, unless of course they're badly worn. But the problem is when shifting, if the clamping force isn't there, there's going to be massive slippage, and while having a good disc, say ceramic...given that it's broken-in properly, it wont take long for it to destroy both the PP and FW, and slippage to get worse and worse. This is exactly what happened with my setup. It held fine once in gear, but trying a quick upshift (even not so harsh of one), it would slip like wet soap.
Same thing you can apply to downshifts, which is something a lot of guys barely ever do with rev match. You wouldn't call this slippage, but unnecessary friction. Again, not enough clamping force causes a lot slip, from the sudden speed difference between the transmission and the engine. A heavier FW just adds to this for the worst, since more mass requires more energy for direction change...and so forth, I'm sure you get the picture.
I want to also add in addition to what I said earlier, about how some believe that all the stock clutch needs is a good disc... I did have a ceramic 6 puck coupled with stock PP and FW (that's what SPEC is), which held fine once in gear, and most clutches would with moderate power, even the stock one, unless of course they're badly worn. But the problem is when shifting, if the clamping force isn't there, there's going to be massive slippage, and while having a good disc, say ceramic...given that it's broken-in properly, it wont take long for it to destroy both the PP and FW, and slippage to get worse and worse. This is exactly what happened with my setup. It held fine once in gear, but trying a quick upshift (even not so harsh of one), it would slip like wet soap.
Same thing you can apply to downshifts, which is something a lot of guys barely ever do with rev match. You wouldn't call this slippage, but unnecessary friction. Again, not enough clamping force causes a lot slip, from the sudden speed difference between the transmission and the engine. A heavier FW just adds to this for the worst, since more mass requires more energy for direction change...and so forth, I'm sure you get the picture.
Holds fine if I take it easy on shifts and if I nail it once it is engaged.
But if I try to slam through gears even on a rolling start, it slips like crazy.
09-25-2011, 05:14 PM
#99
Three Wheelin'
I'm not quiet sure, but are you speaking of your current set up, or from the past? I ask because your signature says JandR dual-disc clutch, or you haven't installed that yet?
09-25-2011, 07:24 PM
#101
Three Wheelin'
There's nothing wrong with a 6 puck....it can take hard shifts, but it needs to sit behind a heavy PP, and not our stupid self adjusting PP. If there isn't enough clamping force, it's just going to grind against both the PP and FW, and soon enough shred them to pieces. A ceramic disc can only compensate for lack of clamping force for so long. It will eventually blow the PP, and nicely glaze/heat spot the FW and trash it.
So, in simple words, a better disc along with stock PP and FW isn't quiet the answer or fix.
So, in simple words, a better disc along with stock PP and FW isn't quiet the answer or fix.
09-28-2011, 06:35 PM
#105
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
iTrader: (10)
My new disc should arrive Friday just to let everyone know. Josh handled this in about a hour with no problem
Last edited by InFaMouSLink; 09-28-2011 at 06:37 PM.
09-28-2011, 07:39 PM
#106
Three Wheelin'
Same thing happened to me...I ordered the fiber tough...kevlar came, and I left it alone and just installed it. Now, if this thing doesn't pull through enough time, CM will never sell another nut or bolt to me ever again
09-29-2011, 07:40 AM
#108
Precisely. ....this tends to happen even on a nearly stock TL, after some wear on the clutch (happened to me on 2 stock clutches), much less a on an FI one like yourself.
I'm not quiet sure, but are you speaking of your current set up, or from the past? I ask because your signature says JandR dual-disc clutch, or you haven't installed that yet?
I'm not quiet sure, but are you speaking of your current set up, or from the past? I ask because your signature says JandR dual-disc clutch, or you haven't installed that yet?
Last edited by KN_TL; 09-29-2011 at 07:42 AM.
09-29-2011, 11:45 AM
#109
All motor
Of course after my Stage 2 clutch gets installed correctly, and the only thing holding me back from it getting into gear was the clutch pedal adjustment, everyone starts buying the same clutch! And are gonna get it working properly! I'm SO pissed about this, it's just un fukcing real.
MAKE SURE YOU GET THE PEDAL ADJUSTED!!! THAT'S WHY IT'S NOT IN MY CAR RIGHT NOW!!! BAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!
MAKE SURE YOU GET THE PEDAL ADJUSTED!!! THAT'S WHY IT'S NOT IN MY CAR RIGHT NOW!!! BAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!
09-29-2011, 07:00 PM
#111
Three Wheelin'
Of course after my Stage 2 clutch gets installed correctly, and the only thing holding me back from it getting into gear was the clutch pedal adjustment, everyone starts buying the same clutch! And are gonna get it working properly! I'm SO pissed about this, it's just un fukcing real.
MAKE SURE YOU GET THE PEDAL ADJUSTED!!! THAT'S WHY IT'S NOT IN MY CAR RIGHT NOW!!! BAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!
MAKE SURE YOU GET THE PEDAL ADJUSTED!!! THAT'S WHY IT'S NOT IN MY CAR RIGHT NOW!!! BAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!
I cant really elaborate much on ur car, bcs i never saw it, or was around it with the CM clutch..but somehow i think that u could've gotten it to work, given that you had the right parts. I never had to adjust the pedal....maybe bcs i had it adjusted a while back... i believe the way the CM clutch is built, is in a way that it grabs so low, that the allowed pedal travel isn't enough to disengage it fully or is just on the verge, therefore, it needs a very slight adjustment, so more pressure is applied on the PP, thus reaching complete disengagement
09-30-2011, 10:14 AM
#112
All motor
I'm not sure what happened either man, and I appreciate you trying to resolve the problem with me despite not seeing the car. Apparently my buddy was there with the tech, and they adjusted the pedal all the way out. He even said they pushed against the fork and it still did not go into gear. I'm not sure what the issue was on my car, as this exact kit was already installed on Sean's car. It's really strange, and I was pretty upset. I probably would've gained the equivalent of 5-6hp throughout the entire powerband with the lightened flywheel. But I can't do anything about it now. My OEM clutch is almost broken in now (about 385 miles, of which literally 360 have been stop and go). I'm thinking of just hammering 2nd and 3rd on the drive home today 
400 miles should be more than enough to break in the clutch and since the pedal already feels different than when I first drove it, I'm assuming that means it's mostly broken in.
FYI, it was raining yesterday and I must've given it a little gas from the 2-3 shift and it spun a little lol. Just driving normally, but with a little gas in between shifts by accident. So I can tell this clutch grips much better than my previous one. Can't wait to get on it and hopefully be chirping some 3rd.
400 miles should be more than enough to break in the clutch and since the pedal already feels different than when I first drove it, I'm assuming that means it's mostly broken in.FYI, it was raining yesterday and I must've given it a little gas from the 2-3 shift and it spun a little lol. Just driving normally, but with a little gas in between shifts by accident. So I can tell this clutch grips much better than my previous one. Can't wait to get on it and hopefully be chirping some 3rd.
10-03-2011, 04:01 AM
#114
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
iTrader: (10)
^ +1
BUT!!!!! DO NOT OPT FOR THE SEGMENTED KEVLAR!!!!
for the stage 3,. clutchmasters has a new option for us which is a full face 8 puc made out of fiber tough OR ceramic. i opted for the fiber tough, which doesnt have the harsh engagment characteristics of the ceramic, but is more durable in the long run. you also have to be REALLY carefull of how you break in the ceramic material too, otherwise it wont last either.
the kevlar is ok for short term, but doesnt have good longevity. ive gone through enough of these disc's to know this.. i worked with them to get something else made, cause the kevlar just wasnt cutting it =/
heres a pic of my newest kit. stage 3, with 8 puc fiber tough sprung hub disc, stage 3 PP and LWFW.
just to compare, heres a pic of my kits in the past with the segmented kevlar disc. worked great, but was only able to get a good 20k out of it each time.
BUT!!!!! DO NOT OPT FOR THE SEGMENTED KEVLAR!!!!
for the stage 3,. clutchmasters has a new option for us which is a full face 8 puc made out of fiber tough OR ceramic. i opted for the fiber tough, which doesnt have the harsh engagment characteristics of the ceramic, but is more durable in the long run. you also have to be REALLY carefull of how you break in the ceramic material too, otherwise it wont last either.
the kevlar is ok for short term, but doesnt have good longevity. ive gone through enough of these disc's to know this.. i worked with them to get something else made, cause the kevlar just wasnt cutting it =/
heres a pic of my newest kit. stage 3, with 8 puc fiber tough sprung hub disc, stage 3 PP and LWFW.
just to compare, heres a pic of my kits in the past with the segmented kevlar disc. worked great, but was only able to get a good 20k out of it each time.
Can anybody answer me why the flywheel has a black ring where the disc sits on the kevlar kit and its doesn't have one on the fiber kit?
10-03-2011, 06:32 PM
#116
FYI guys, I just installed a brand new Exedy PP with an unsprung 6puck ceramic disk and I had to get the FW machined since it was spotted by the old disk.
The feeling is very intense and I need to get use to the new engaging that I didn't have for months since my clutch was dead! Also I do not recommend this setup for a daily smooth driver, it may be to intense for you!
The feeling is very intense and I need to get use to the new engaging that I didn't have for months since my clutch was dead! Also I do not recommend this setup for a daily smooth driver, it may be to intense for you!
Alex, can't wait to hear the reviews.
10-14-2011, 08:15 AM
#120
All motor
Make sure to get the clutch pedal adjusted....