BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

Attention all performance gurus. i need help/advice...

i got my car dynoed today and it was a major, major disappointment...

i have an

06 5AT

Comptech Catback
E-Shift Pro-Cats
AEM Cold Air
Thermoblock Spacers
UR Ultra SC (Stock size) crank pulley


three pulls... (i will scan my sheet later)

222.91, 224.41, 227.91

227.91!!! is that all???? how do some people have 260+ when they are N/A.\

i realize that i have an AT transmission, but still...... is this normal???

AFR was around 15... i'll have to double check the sheet later...

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

i will scan in the sheet when i get home from work...

i forget to mention


it was 85F and the humidty was like 49%

CL Platano

Who had 260 plus N/A that seems about right ... My engine with headers,intake,pulley,exhaust will pull 238-242 on the dyno..

FiveLiterCheater

Could be the weather, a bad dyno, or maybe your 19" wheels?

227 seems a bit low to blame on the wheels though...

94eg!

All dynos read completely different. You can ONLY compare dyno readings on back-to-back runs when making mods. Since you didn't do a baseline run before the mods, you really have nothing to compare it to...

Try not to get hung-up on the numbers as they don't really mean anything by themselves...

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

do wheels make a difference? i thought they might, but the place told me no....

things i can only think of

-weather
-a lil past my oil change
-19"s 235/35/19 @ 30lbs each

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

i'm not getting TTOOO hung up on the numbers, but jeez.. i thought it would be more.... i figured...

258bp = approx 210whp (AT)

E-Shift - 18 hp
CT CB - 7hp
AEM CAI - 5hp
UR Ultra - 5hp

i was really thinking that i would put down ~250.... sigh...

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

Here, Comptech is claiming..... that they pulled an 04+ Automatic w/ Exhaust.... that car put down 230 stock, 238 max with their CB exhaust...

do the machines make a difference? weather THAT serious of a deal??

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

and thats JUST the exaust!! these damn cats cost over $1000... pulleys, intake, spacers....

does anybody else with similar mods have dynos?? we can compare??

mlody

I do not think it is reasonable to expect ~40 HP gains from just couple parts. If I recall correctly a TL supercharger was good for only about 40-50 more HP and it costs like $4000-5000, so I would guess you could reasonable expect perhaps 15-20 HP, but not 40 HP.

BustedJack

Believe it or not, the 6MT and the 5AT are a completely different beasts. The 261whp dyno you've seen on N/A with just a few mods similar to yours was a 6MT.
For example, most of the 6MT S/C'd TL are around 319whp, and most of the 5AT are about 287whp. That's a 32whp difference between the 2 transmissions. So give the fact that your car dyno'd only at 222, add another 32hp, you'd get around 254whp.

5AT isn't as fast as the 6MT, and to be quite honest.... very different.

6spMike

Look at the comptech chart again. It only made 5.5 more max horsepower.
That's in the noise, comparing it to your run-to run variation was 5.0 horespower.
The crank pulley won't help as much as you think, since at WOT the AC and probably the alternator are not on.
Also, you can't just add the numbers claimed for each add-on part, it doesn't work that way. The CAI and the exhaust stuff is all to help it breathe, but once the most restrictive point in the system is opened up, additional parts won't help.
Sorry your bubble got busted.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Well, we all know what this means. Time to throw on a SC.

CL Platano

wow...Comptech wish that was the case but like Jack said A/T and 6spd is a completely different beast, once you drive a 6spd with your same mods you'll hate your A/T believe me I know..

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

yea ive really grown to learn they are two DIFFERENT cars, and the same price!! why did i pick the 5AT????

i guess cause its my daily driver for work purposes.... sucks...

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

Comptech's S/C kit on the 3rd gen TL made 65-85whp depending on the model.

To the OP, what type of dyno was it? Either way in order to really see what you are making it is important to a dyno of the baseline.

mlody

For 5AT the supercharger WITH the cat-back exhaust makes only 60 HP more @ 6700 RPM which is I believe the redline! At 6300 RPM it ONLY makes ~36 more HP and that is also with the cat-back exhaust. The gains in the most usable power range are mediocre 20-30 hp at the most! So for $5000 for the S/C and about $1000 for the cat-back you will get 20-30 more usable HP. Really crappy deal if you ask me.

BTW I got the numbers straight from the Comptech's website.

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

yea seriously... its just not worth it anymore to me. ive been crying over getting the super charger and saving up my pennies, but if i am only gonna put down like ~280 when i am charged, then nevermind!!

WHERE ARE THE TURBO KITS !!!!???? lol. when is e-shift going to custom fab some piping for our cars?? & when will we be getting an ECU alternative??

godfather2

^ trust bro, i'm in th same boat with my auto tsx

6spMike

Don't expect a turbo to do much better than the supercharger. There's only so much power you can get out of a given size motor, turbo-or super-charged or not, given the restriction of pump gas and reasonable redline. You could go nitrous to get more, but then you've got all the reliability of a hand grenade.
You also have to start worrying about the rest of the drivetrain if you go too big.
If you are saving your pennies, I'd recommend saving some on the side to deal with when it breaks, because it will.

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

Drop those heavy rims, get a 6 speed.

Vietnastee

iTrader: (8)

It's your 19s. You should try the dyno with stock wheels next time.

3rdGenHybrid

I'd have to disagree about the 6mt being faster than the 5at....i've burned plenty of 6mt in my 5at...reguardless of the driver....in the time it takes me to get out of third...the 6mt already has to shift twice falling back after each gear....the 6mt only gets me out the whole....as for your dyno results....EVERY DYNO IS DIFFRENT...theres an article i for got what magazine wrote it...but they dyno'd 1 car on 3 diffrent dynos(i believe it was a 350z) and they got numbers from 220 on one dyno and 260 on another....i think Mustang dynos, probably one of the most common dynos used show higher readings than others....so dont go jumping off a bridge...if you want some bang for the buck....go get a 75shot and some colder plugs... and you'll definately hang with the S/C's

3rdGenHybrid

just noticed it was a pretty hot day on the dyno too....

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

Methinks its probably your trans. My car dyno'd 220 whp on a dynojet bonestock, and it made 227 with an open throttle body. I've heard the cats are worth 10 - 20 whp, so I'd be upset. However, my car ran down to the 11s for air/fuel. It may be that your car is running WAY too lean and losing power, or it could be pulling timing possibly? I've heard of variances on newer cars of 10 - 15 whp just due to the computer pulling a lot of timing. How does it run on the street? Ever take it to the track?

neuronbob

The primary lesson to be learned was posted on page one of this thread:

Dynos are tools meant to compare pre and post modification. When used in that context, the numbers don't really matter that much.

That said, those numbers don't look all that surprising for a 5AT with big wheels on a hot day, and possibly with poor airflow. You might try again on your stock 17s as the first run of the day (when cooler), and ask the dyno operator for more airflow as this can make a difference.

Just sharing my recent experience with two different dynos for my RL. I learned a lot about this stuff by doing it!

JD TL-S

iTrader: (1)

Sounds bad, but save the bucks not buying a supercharger, etc. And buy a new 09+ Acura with possible more HP from the factory. I understand its cool, but alot of money for little results. I wish I had $5,000 more to put on a supercharger even if its only 40+ HP. But I would rather save for a future car with more HP from the factory. Drive around a slow car for a while and when you get back in your TL you will like the power again. I just drove a rent-a-car Chrysler 300M today and beat the shit out of it. I got back in my 07 TL-S and WOW.

Laxplaya11385

um...i think that if you have the same mods, the 6MT takes it....unless of course the driver isn't that good at driving stick

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

how important is ECU resetting after you do mods?? i havent disconnected my battery since the AEM CAI, Pulley & Thermoblocks.... i just reset it today after my dyno..... think it will help? i always felt like my car WAS fast and i can hold my own. ive beaten G35 5AT's with CAI before..... maybe i am just getting my panties in a bunch for no reason.... sigh...

wasupdog

iTrader: (2)

85F is pretty hot. run it again at 50 degrees on a dynojet and you'd definitely make more hp on paper...cus dynojets are known to have inflated numbers.

if u ran a g35 with nothing but a cai u basically ran against a stock auto g. a cai doesn't add any power to a g it only changes the sound.

TLFourplay

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, the rims were playing against you there. I dynoed at 261hp and 241tq with my 3.5L (CAI, pulley, thermoblock spacers, stage III exhaust) but had my stock rims on for dyno day.

SSM6MTNAVI

^ I concur with TLFourplay on the rims. I also had my car dynoed this past weekend and I have the same setup as him except mine isn't a TL-S and I have no resonator or mid muffler but instead magnaflows in the back end. It was also a very hot day in Rochester, musta been at least 90 in that room and I made 217hp to the front wheels on land and sea dyno) known to read 10-15% lower than a Dynojet. I'm also 6MT btw......

I'd say take ur car there on a cooler with the stock wheels and see how it does.......

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

i really and truely thought the rims made a difference...but they told me no..

my rims are solid chrome tanks. almost 30lbs each w/o tires. their balancing is slightly off. and i think my coilover suspension has been acting up , or blown. the car was VERY VERY VERY bouncy on the dyno and just in general lately.

i am gonna wait for a colder day, through on the stocks, and try try again...

i reset my ECU before, took for a lil spin, felt better, but chances are, its all in my head.

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

i saw in another thread, accurtein was saying when his 5at was stock, he put down like 200, or 202 or something real low-ball....

i know its just numbers, but when you compare anything in 6SPD vs 5AT. the 6spd is always putting down better numbers, and its faster... but time is lost when the DRIVER doesnt know how to shift perfectly and really take advantage of the manual.

i feel if i had my car in 6spd, with the comptech SS and all these mods, i would be taking down stock 350Z's and BMW M3 (AT) no problem..

94eg!

An automatic transmission transfers all it's power to the wheels through a highly viscous fluid in the torque converter. This really soaks up quite a bit of power. I know that Honda's manual transmissions typically soak up about 14% of your power (backed up by dyno graphs). That is extremely efficient.

Not to mention the gears in the AT are MUCH longer than the 6MT. If you topped out the TL at 7000rpm in the highest gear, the AT would be doing 250mph while the MT would only be going 208mph. Now toss in an extra gear, and you really begin to see the performance difference shorter gearing makes...

It really isn't that big of deal though unless your drag-racing the car...

CL Platano

If youre boosted AT or 6spd will be taking M3's and 350Z...I think one day you need to get in the car with BoostedJack and see if you feel its worth it being boosted on an AT...I'll tell you though the whine is very addicting.

fant0m_TL

how is it that we are told, as buyers, that a stock at is like 250 or 270 (05 and below) when dynos prove otherwise?

or maybe im just an idiot?

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

that is horsepower not whp

fant0m_TL