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That's the type of flanges that Utah used on his. Another option is to use flanges from Prank (or cut stock J-pipe flanges) and make the piping route from the precats to an up-pipe.
If you go through the thread, Ken posted pics of his setup - it bolts to the precats and has an up pipe, similar to how Subarus are done.
That's how I intend to do mine as well, and similar to how Tony the Tiger did a customer's.
That's the type of flanges that Utah used on his. Another option is to use flanges from Prank (or cut stock J-pipe flanges) and make the piping route from the precats to an up-pipe.
If you go through the thread, Ken posted pics of his setup - it bolts to the precats and has an up pipe, similar to how Subarus are done.
That's how I intend to do mine as well, and similar to how Tony the Tiger did a customer's.
Okay I think I understand what you are saying. So after the precats meet the j pipe and it goes down to one you cut it there then run a new pipe to the turbo. that seems way easier then making a custom manifold
You could do it that way, or just cut off the pipes right at the mating flange and use the flanges with your own pipe. Like Ken's:
Using the stock J-pipe is just a method to have free flanges. The set is only 60 bucks from Prank Parts for brand new stainless flanges.
okay thanks alot man! I think it would be easier at least for me to just cut the pipe after they meet and then run it to the turbo. Then I only have to weld one pipe and I don't have to weld 2 pipes into one.
just bought 5 tires for the crv since I had a puncture 1/4 mile from my apt... Spare tire was also shot... Tire couldn't be repaired since it was too close to the side walls. Thank god discounttiredirect is having a 100 off 400 deal...
Also I will be closely monitoring the crv engine. Had an overheating issue when the upper coolant hose blew off. Didn't know how long it had occurred since I was driving for over an hour before I stop... Temp gauge didn't go up until I parked the car. So far no coolant mixed into the oil. Going to need to flush the coolant and install another thermostat just for preventative measures. hopefully it won't need the head milled and a new headgasket. (cross finger). If it comes down to that then I am going to put in a low millage k24a1. car has over 215k on it and it rusty.
tell me about it... Just this week alone I spent 1k. I did ss lines, front and rear rotors, all new calipers and brakes, pads, fluid, a/c compressor, a/c lines, freon, and a bunch of other crap. Then another 400 for tires and probably 300 bucks for lifetime alignment and mount and balance... A/C still isn't 100%...
Damn, I'm feelin it for ya. I have a 25% off coupon at Advance if you need it. Not a ton, but if you're getting a battery or alternator it can save a few bucks. I also have a $20 off $40 speed perks if you can use it. PM me or hit me up on FB.
4 shops , 20 buck, and 4.5 hours later.... The car is kinda sorta put back. Had then punch out all 3 studs. The unbroken one had jacked up threads. So the j pipe is held on with 2 bolts in the rear and the cat back is also held on with 2 bolts.. Yeah I am done with this bull shit. Going to be until may or if not next year. All the fucken cars decided to break all at once. I was so close to getting a rental
On the flip side. The rear cat looks good even though the media was kinda loose. I give it a hard smack and now it stays in place again. There was some Ca deposits or something. Could be from when I was using wiper wash for water/meth. They just flaked right off after I touched it
Last edited by thisaznboi88; 03-12-2016 at 12:19 PM.
I bought it used so I have no idea. Just the regular fluid and stuff. But for sure the timing chain was never touched. the coolant was still green when I got it. So I replaced it with honda type 2 and did a bunch of maintenance. Its just rusty.
looking for an oil pan again... I think this time I will just buy new, and do the none welding oil return
Those things always seem to leak, just weld the hole up and install a new one saves $$$$ also
Sorry to hear of the problems, that's just the way it goes, don't get discouraged or bang your head on the wall just take your time and it will come together
looking for an oil pan again... I think this time I will just buy new, and do the none welding oil return
What is the non welding oil return? I know back in the day we could punch a hole through the steel oil pans on B series, but with these aluminum ones..
I guess you could drill a hole and thread it and then jb weld that. Seems to be a common method without issues.
Last edited by screaminz28; 03-13-2016 at 09:39 PM.
Reason: cause
I used a AN bulkhead fitting. Cut off the shorter end and used two teflon washers and hondabond/red locktite. I peened the nut/threads in several places to make sure it doesn't come off.
Rodney's kit came that way and I haven't had any problems with it leaking or loosening up.
I don't think it is long enough for an aluminium pan look for bulk head fittings like KN suggested they have longer threaded section for thicker pass through
I've seen many successful oil drain fittings using the straight-cut NPT threads for the pan on one side and the male AN on the other for the drain tube. This is generally done using black RTV as sort of a "thread sealant" as the black is less susceptible to oil deterioration than all other sealants. Just make sure there is absolutely no oil residue on the pan when installing the fitting. Rarely will this setup leak if the fittings hex is held stationary when tightening the line onto it. Once the fitting is moved after being installed, the RTV's seal is broken and will begin to leak. Some people even install the drain line before the RTV dries to prevent this from happening but if you're careful enough, you will be fine.
I think I am just going to cut off the AN fitting and weld the hole, then relocate the drain nozzle. Doesn't look like this oil pan will sell and I hate to trash it
12 bucks a stud ouch that's why I'm a hoarder at work and strip all the bolts off of cores and junk parts I can't think of the last time I had to buy a bolt it's been years,
When are you going to re-start the install ?
12 bucks a stud ouch that's why I'm a hoarder at work and strip all the bolts off of cores and junk parts I can't think of the last time I had to buy a bolt it's been years,
When are you going to re-start the install ?
Bought another 10An oil return fitting. Just going to get it welded again. Going to double check it on the car first so I can make a reference on where I want it on the new oil pan
Wait, youre paying someone else to do the install for you? Seems to me like you have plenty of knowledge and capability of doing this yourself. You would be surprised how easy it all really is. Sometimes i wonder which part of it all i truly enjoy the most. Sure, i enjoy daily driving a 450 horse Accord. But man, theres really something about the build and construction that gets me amped up. Maybe thats why ive had damn near every displacement known in the j-series family in the car in roughly 3 years or so? Lmao.
I say at least make an attempt at it. YOU CAN.DO IT!!!
lol fine Ill try to do it. It might be a little half ass with mounting the intercooler. I actually want to have all the intercooler piping welded so that I don't have to worry about it blowing off the coupler during boost. Its also a pain in the ass to work in front of my Apt parking lot. The concrete isn't even straight and slanted at a small angle. I wish I had a rack that I could rent out for a day or two like they do back home in Cali
lol fine Ill try to do it. It might be a little half ass with mounting the intercooler. I actually want to have all the intercooler piping welded so that I don't have to worry about it blowing off the coupler during boost. Its also a pain in the ass to work in front of my Apt parking lot. The concrete isn't even straight and slanted at a small angle. I wish I had a rack that I could rent out for a day or two like they do back home in Cali
Hairspray on the IC pipe before putting the coupler on. Sticks like glue.
I vote for diy as well. I don't care who does the work, but a turbo kit install isn't like a supercharger where it's a known time to install, so there will always be unexpected things. Unexpected means more time, which means more money. If you were quoted a flat price for these install, I wouldn't trust it, even if it was from your best friend.
03-09-2016, 07:05 PM
