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Would be interested to see DIY Turbo for the 4g if anyone has done it. Pretty cool thread like what you all have done. Auto subscribed to thread now :-)
In all actuality, getting 10 years out of the same WMI kit says a lot in regards to quality. Considering the corrosive nature of methanol (as well as water itself) most kits are said to not last any longer than 3-5 years. It's good to hear no noticeable harm was done, however, I'd still do an oil change and add half a bottle of HEET (methanol) to remove any water that could be lurking followed by another oil change to flush that out.
Neat little tip I learned about WMI is sloping the intake tube downwards away from the throttle body to prevent any leakage from entering the engine.
Yeah I am planning to do another oil change this weekend. Going to pull the intercooler off. I think another thing that helps is that my BOV was kinda open so some of the fluid drain out that way also.
I am probably going to swap out the BOV to the turbosmart one I have laying around. The RFL one has a chattering problem and the performance is inconsistent. Some day it will blow off just fine. Other days you can hear the air chopping. Doesn't happen often, but when it does you kinda know.
I feel like if available, E85 is the only way to go with forced induction. Although meth does great things for detonation caused by heat.
My intake manifold feels almost cold after doing multiple WOT pulls. Wish I logged the intake air temp after the switch to E85 but I know it is drastically lower. Gerzand's rotrex kit gives me great piece of mind with low maintenance required!
Andy kit is nice but no A/C.... I can't live with that. Going to make sometime this weekend to clean out the intercooler and then idle the car. Then drive it around town. Then change the oil again.
Andy kit is nice but no A/C.... I can't live with that. Going to make sometime this weekend to clean out the intercooler and then idle the car. Then drive it around town. Then change the oil again.
Agreed - I love the effort and implementation that Andy has put forth on the J series, but in the south, not having A/C is not an option. I see Andy is in Canton, Ohio. A comparison of temps shows that my location (Lexington, SC) has average high temps at least 15 degrees higher, and some months 20 degrees higher. In the summer, that's ROUGH. Granted, I can't deal with super cold weather either, but its no fun hoping in your car and getting to work 30 minutes later sweating like Meatloaf in concert.
I've seen those videos of that 700HP machine, very nice and interesting to hear Andy is from Canton area. Even 3-4 months out of the year up here its no fun without A/C, but open windows in a moving car is just fine without A/C for all but a handful of days...
Humidity - ya I couldn't live w/o A/C in say FL, SC probably a bit more humid than Ohio I'm guessing. I know absolutely nothing about superchargers/turbos, but am interested in learning more. What is interesting to me would be to have a daily driver with a supercharger/turbo add on where you could switch it on and off quickly to go from daily driving to "fun mode" Is it pretty typical for belt driven superchargers to replace A/C compressor?
Humidity - ya I couldn't live w/o A/C in say FL, SC probably a bit more humid than Ohio I'm guessing. I know absolutely nothing about superchargers/turbos, but am interested in learning more. What is interesting to me would be to have a daily driver with a supercharger/turbo add on where you could switch it on and off quickly to go from daily driving to "fun mode" Is it pretty typical for belt driven superchargers to replace A/C compressor?
Yes, its common on transverse mounted engines, especially in Hondas and Acura 4clyinder higher horsepower "Race" kits with the larger C38 family of Rotrex blowers due to very little room around the serpentine belt system. Any other design (such as one which might utilize a remotely mounted blower on an extended input shaft) is going to have significant design challenges for usage with a Rotrex and will be costly to produce at a quantity of 1 and outrageously expensive to produce in quantity for a competitive price after all the tooling thats required. I'm proud to offer these kits for sale which offer more HP per pound of boost than any other kit ever offered for the TL, whether supercharged, turbo, or otherwise....and with great reliability. Stop down to Canton sometime before it snows and ill give you a ride in the TL-S and show you around my TL SHAWD that's getting a Rotrex SC as well. No pressure to buy one - I'd just like to share.
Thanks man, will definitely have to take you up on that offer sometime, although I know I'd probably say the hell with A/C and want to hook mine up immediately after taking a ride :-) The wife wouldn't like driving it in the summer without A/C but to me.. would totally be worth it. Nice to hear you have one going in on a 4g TL! I haven't seen any bolt on type kits for the 4g @ all, not that I'm committed to get one just yet.. Just looking and interested in how these things work @ this point. I can see how it would be difficult to fit that C38 on the passenger side as their website says its 18 x 12 x 12 in not much room under the hood on that side. Let me know if I'm wrong, but from what I've been reading it seems like this type of setup would be a bit safer, less maintenance and more reliable than using an exhaust setup?
I think once again all my cars are trying to fk with me. CRV tie rod ends is rattling and probably leaking power steering fluids. My car is still sitting while I drive around in a chevy sonic...
Thanks man, will definitely have to take you up on that offer sometime, although I know I'd probably say the hell with A/C and want to hook mine up immediately after taking a ride :-) The wife wouldn't like driving it in the summer without A/C but to me.. would totally be worth it. Nice to hear you have one going in on a 4g TL! I haven't seen any bolt on type kits for the 4g @ all, not that I'm committed to get one just yet.. Just looking and interested in how these things work @ this point. I can see how it would be difficult to fit that C38 on the passenger side as their website says its 18 x 12 x 12 in not much room under the hood on that side. Let me know if I'm wrong, but from what I've been reading it seems like this type of setup would be a bit safer, less maintenance and more reliable than using an exhaust setup?
drained a gallon of water/methanol from my intercooler and piping. Not even sure how it go into the charge piping where it comes off the turbo... The liquid had to travel straight up and then 90 degrees. O well car is running and will doing spark plugs tomorrow. And Dom will be retuning the car on straight 93 oct.
drained a gallon of water/methanol from my intercooler and piping. Not even sure how it go into the charge piping where it comes off the turbo... The liquid had to travel straight up and then 90 degrees. O well car is running and will doing spark plugs tomorrow. And Dom will be retuning the car on straight 93 oct.
If you are coming back to California, wait until you get back to retune. We only have as high as 91 at the pump unless you want to mix with race gas and that gets expensive.
I recently did the exact opposite. I turned the WMI off, dropped some timing, and increased the boost. Now sitting at 21.5lbs and my car is officially useless to drive. Lmao
I recently did the exact opposite. I turned the WMI off, dropped some timing, and increased the boost. Now sitting at 21.5lbs and my car is officially useless to drive. Lmao
I recently did the exact opposite. I turned the WMI off, dropped some timing, and increased the boost. Now sitting at 21.5lbs and my car is officially useless to drive. Lmao
Hey Robert, you're running a full aftermarket fuel system right? Return style, aftermarket lines and pump isn't it? I wonder at what point the stock pump and lines become a restriction. Ken is running 400whp on stock everything, so I wonder if another 100WHP is possible...
Hey Robert, you're running a full aftermarket fuel system right? Return style, aftermarket lines and pump isn't it? I wonder at what point the stock pump and lines become a restriction. Ken is running 400whp on stock everything, so I wonder if another 100WHP is possible...
The limit of the oem supply line is 475whp on ethanol with a 6an return setup, proper FPR, and a 340lph aeromotive pump before experiencing pressure drop due to the supply line inside diameter. I've met this limit in the past.
In turn, this means that when running gasoline or race gasoline, you could get around 650whp with the same 340lph pump
The limit of the oem supply line is 475whp on ethanol with a 6an return setup, proper FPR, and a 340lph aeromotive pump before experiencing pressure drop due to the supply line inside diameter. I've met this limit in the past.
In turn, this means that when running gasoline or race gasoline, you could get around 650whp with the same 340lph pump
Andy, just curious. How were you monitoring fuel pressure?
Hey Robert, you're running a full aftermarket fuel system right? Return style, aftermarket lines and pump isn't it? I wonder at what point the stock pump and lines become a restriction. Ken is running 400whp on stock everything, so I wonder if another 100WHP is possible...
My old 2G TLS dyno'd 442 to the wheels running a wet nitrous kit teed off the main so the limit is definitely equal to or over that amount.
I also fixed the harness for the water/meth. Unit is working just fine on my bench setup
Thats good to hear. You gonna reinstall the WMI or leave it as it is? What boost pressure are you sitting at now and what octane fuel?
This weekend Im going to be meeting back up with Hickam so he can cork this loud SOB. The car has definitely got much louder with the higher boost and power. Never thought I'd say this but it's TOO LOUD! Haha. Not sure what to use on it since I've never really had exhaust components aside from tubing so I might be asking some of you guys for some ideas on this one. I really don't care about looks, price, location, but my biggest worry is being too muffled TBH. Don't want to lose the intensity but would like to tone it down a few notches. Something free flowing. Catching rasp would be a plus but NOT a resonator. Has to be mufflers. Something maybe with a welded design like the flowmasters have. Any thoughts from the hardcore peeps?
I've been watching my WMI module flash its red warning light in my face for the past week or so and looking in my tune/logging, I'd be confident in saying that E85 with WMI is most assuredly overkill for anyone wondering. Knock just about comes in at the same region of timing advance with or without the mixture spraying. E85 has won me over all the way around for running big boost on these motors. Tuning in the cooler temps I'll admit has had its quirks but a little trickery using the AEM FIC and bam, instant IAT fuel compensation for the alcohol powered monster. Even FlashPro couldn't save me in this department. Really wish Hondata would remember the smaller people like the j-series when it comes to continual development on their products. Doubt we will ever see anything except maybe some bug fixes or updates on the help file. Lmao
Car running 8.5 psi on 93 oct. The water/methanol kit is completely out of the car (got some trunk space back). Going to be posting it up for sale for people of big dreams of going high boost.
Car running 8.5 psi on 93 oct. The water/methanol kit is completely out of the car (got some trunk space back). Going to be posting it up for sale for people of big dreams of going high boost.
10-30-2016, 07:16 PM
