DIY: Racing Seats

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-19-2012, 07:37 AM
  #81  
Lone Wolf
iTrader: (5)
 
brian6speed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5,982
Received 497 Likes on 399 Posts
Originally Posted by the fenda rolla
Hmmm...the Wedge Engineering bracket from Cipher Auto, or Wedge themselves, comes with a metal tab that the stock seatbelt bolts to. The one next to the center console you're referring to...You're does not have this? What bracket do you have??

And the NRG harness bar came with extra bolts for whatever mounting we need... I used those for the upper bolt (I think) and the stock retractor bolts (or the other way around)...I just bent and unscrewed the stock metal ring that is on them...did your harness bar come with bolts?
My brackets are completely custom one offs. 2nd gen cl has no other options. They have no mounting tab at all.

I have bolts for the harness bar, I am just wondering how you get the stock bolt out of the plastic buckle?
Old 01-19-2012, 07:46 AM
  #82  
The Track Terror
 
the fenda rolla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 545
Received 76 Likes on 58 Posts
^^^ Ahh, yes, I see...could you post a pic of that area so we could get a better look? Unfortunately I'm not too familiar with the CL...

With mine there is a very thin black washer that you must bend and then unscrew the bolt from and everything comes undone...
Old 01-19-2012, 08:28 AM
  #83  
Lone Wolf
iTrader: (5)
 
brian6speed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5,982
Received 497 Likes on 399 Posts
Originally Posted by the fenda rolla
^^^ Ahh, yes, I see...could you post a pic of that area so we could get a better look? Unfortunately I'm not too familiar with the CL...

With mine there is a very thin black washer that you must bend and then unscrew the bolt from and everything comes undone...
They are probably the same. I am just not sure how I should bend out the black washer without damaging the plastic buckle. Can you possibly explain that better with maybe pics. I would appreciate that. Here are the pics of my buckle.


Old 01-19-2012, 01:31 PM
  #84  
Safety Car
Thread Starter
 
Inaccurate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Houston, Texas
Age: 64
Posts: 4,442
Received 481 Likes on 290 Posts


In the pic above, you can see where the harness fastens into the oem location for the seatbelts for the rear seat. The pegasusautoracing anchor bolt (PN# 2384) will thread perfectly into these holes for the oem rear seatbelts (for the rear seat).






In the pic above, please see the red arrows. These holes were originally for the oem seat mount (not oem seatbelt holes). These holes were drilled out (reamed) to a slightly larger diameter to allow the pegasusautoracing anchor bolt (PN# 2384) to be passed thru the floorboard. A respective lock nut was used on the underside of the floorboard (everything Grade 8 including washers).







In the two pics above, you can see the various fasteners that have been passed thru the floorboard. Please note the use of load-spreading thick washers (gravely important).


As a reminder, please see this link (click here) (which is post #4 of this thread) for additional info.
Old 01-19-2012, 02:02 PM
  #85  
The Track Terror
 
the fenda rolla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 545
Received 76 Likes on 58 Posts
Brian, in the last pic I can see the black washer at the end (closest to the beginning of the threads) holding those thick metal washers. Is that set-up exactly how it looked when you took it out? I guess I'm asking, is that all stock?

Either way, you should be able to bend that very thin black washer and then back it off the threads and then all those washers and everything else should come off the bolt...
Old 01-19-2012, 03:09 PM
  #86  
Lone Wolf
iTrader: (5)
 
brian6speed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5,982
Received 497 Likes on 399 Posts
Originally Posted by the fenda rolla
Brian, in the last pic I can see the black washer at the end (closest to the beginning of the threads) holding those thick metal washers. Is that set-up exactly how it looked when you took it out? I guess I'm asking, is that all stock?

Either way, you should be able to bend that very thin black washer and then back it off the threads and then all those washers and everything else should come off the bolt...
Yes it is all stock. The gold bolt in my pic has a built in lip/washer on both sides of the plastic it looks. Even if I remove black washer and other stuff I don't see how to remove the bolt with lips on both sides without prying the plastic apart.

There is a seam in the plastic buckle where it looks like it started as 2 pieces but there are parts where the plastic is melted together to hold it closed.
Old 01-19-2012, 08:35 PM
  #87  
B A N N E D
 
phatrick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Age: 34
Posts: 229
Received 19 Likes on 18 Posts
Ah you drilled them out. I see. Anywho, just took out all the carpet in my car today.

Really want to upgrade harnesses to a good 4 point camlock. Maybe I'll do that after coilovers.

For the camlock guys, how is it running them on a daily driver?
Old 01-19-2012, 09:28 PM
  #88  
The Track Terror
 
the fenda rolla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 545
Received 76 Likes on 58 Posts
Originally Posted by brian6speed
Yes it is all stock. The gold bolt in my pic has a built in lip/washer on both sides of the plastic it looks. Even if I remove black washer and other stuff I don't see how to remove the bolt with lips on both sides without prying the plastic apart.

There is a seam in the plastic buckle where it looks like it started as 2 pieces but there are parts where the plastic is melted together to hold it closed.
Hmmm...that does seem like a jam...I don't think I know what else to do

Originally Posted by phatrick
Ah you drilled them out. I see. Anywho, just took out all the carpet in my car today.

Really want to upgrade harnesses to a good 4 point camlock. Maybe I'll do that after coilovers.

For the camlock guys, how is it running them on a daily driver?
And camlocks are easy for DD...the more you lock and unlock them the easier/quicker it gets...no prob at all...
Old 01-19-2012, 11:25 PM
  #89  
#1 Super Guy!
 
94eg!'s Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 2,335
Received 510 Likes on 367 Posts
Can you still reach all the radio & HVAC controls when you've got the harness all buckled?
Old 01-20-2012, 12:41 AM
  #90  
B A N N E D
 
phatrick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Age: 34
Posts: 229
Received 19 Likes on 18 Posts
Kinda.

Can I reach my radar? No.

Can I reach my door if I strap up and forget to close it first? No.

Can I reach the seat adjuster on the side? Barely.

Is it still worth it? For some odd reason yes lol.
Old 01-20-2012, 12:54 AM
  #91  
B A N N E D
 
phatrick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Age: 34
Posts: 229
Received 19 Likes on 18 Posts
My unsafe, harness set up right now. (including my full clean out of my car to do a black conversion) I had to ghetto rig my harness cus I lost the long strap at the end. And I decided against my stock seat belts. :\

Name:  IMG_3386.png
Views: 4577
Size:  749.6 KB
Old 01-20-2012, 07:17 AM
  #92  
Safety Car
Thread Starter
 
Inaccurate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Houston, Texas
Age: 64
Posts: 4,442
Received 481 Likes on 290 Posts
Originally Posted by phatrick
I had to ghetto rig my harness cus I lost the long strap at the end. And I decided against my stock seat belts.
If by "ghetto" that you mean looping the belt around the bar...... I like the setup as is. I see nothing unsafe with it as long there is no chaffing of the belt against the bar.

As long as the law allows removal of the oem belts, I agree that oem belts (for all typical cars) are woefully inadequate.
Old 01-20-2012, 10:42 AM
  #93  
Safety Car
Thread Starter
 
Inaccurate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Houston, Texas
Age: 64
Posts: 4,442
Received 481 Likes on 290 Posts






Originally Posted by phatrick
For the camlock guys, how is it running them on a daily driver?

Pics above were taken last night to illustrate the current wear.

I have had my racing seats and racing harness since November 2007. I have buckled/unbuckled three times per day, mondays thru fridays, during that time period. Doing the math, that is roughly 3240 times that I have buckled-up with my harness.

As can be seen in the pics above, the harness has stood-up excellently. Visually, there are massive scratches that has worn away the coating due to how I guide the belt ends into the lock. Mechanically, the lock feels and operates like new however. To date, I have never had a single problem or hassle from the harness in the past 4+ years.

CHANGING TOPICS - Interesting topic about "living pig-tied to your seat".

First, let me remind everyone that it is gravely important that your harness be worn very tight against your body. Do NOT wear the harness loose for your comfort. The racing harness becomes ineffective when adjusted too loose against your body.

Ditto what phatrick said above.

It is a strange feeling being pig-tied so closely against the seat and being unable to move. I remember my first impression of driving with my harness. It was a scary feeling (psychology) of being so tied to the car as a whole. Somewhat like claustrophobia. My mind was now painfully aware of me and the car being "One" together in an accident. A freaky feeling. I actually drove slow and careful for a few weeks until that feeling went away.

With the racing harness, you can not reach over to grab something from the passenger seat.

Sometimes it is awkward not being able to look "over my shoulder" to see if it is safe to pull out in traffic when my car is positioned at a strange angle to the road. In those cases, I try to pull up a little bit and re-position the car so that I can see without looking "over my shoulder".

It is awkward not being able to lean forward to look around the A-Pillar post when driving in tight areas like a parking lot, parking garage, making turns when space is tight.

You can not reach into you pockets. I always make sure that my cell phone is located in my shirt pocket, easily within reach. When I am finished with the phone, I put it back into my shirt pocket. If I laid the phone down and it fell, I would not be able to reach down to pick it up.

And, hope that you do not get an itch. You can reach very limited areas of your body to scratch if you developed an itch.

But looking at the big picture, these thing are easily overlooked and you will adjust to the new way of life after about a month of daily driving. I love my racing seats and racing harness. I have no regrets. You could not pay me enough money to make me go back to the oem setup.
Old 01-20-2012, 11:00 AM
  #94  
AZ Track Whore
iTrader: (4)
 
vill0169's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Omaha, NE
Age: 36
Posts: 1,674
Received 298 Likes on 212 Posts
I'll chime in on this one. When I strap in it's like in Apollo 13 when the guy pushes his foot into the Astronauts chest to get the straps as tight as absolutely possible! lol

I can't do shit in my car when I'm strapped in, just drive and shift lol I gotta get some new harnesses too, Schroth Clubman ftw.
Old 01-20-2012, 11:16 AM
  #95  
Lone Wolf
iTrader: (5)
 
brian6speed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5,982
Received 497 Likes on 399 Posts
I wonder what police will do if you drive on street like that with full gutted interior, no stock seatbelts and no airbags.

I got pulled over 2 summers ago by police with just a gutted trunk and rear seat. He pulled me from the car and put me in his back seat while he searched thru my car for no reason. With the back being gutted, he assumed the car was stolen or something illegal was going on.

Just sucks I have to be so scared of the police.
Old 01-20-2012, 11:40 AM
  #96  
B A N N E D
 
phatrick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Age: 34
Posts: 229
Received 19 Likes on 18 Posts
Also noticed this when I took out my seats.

Obviously the memory seats don't function anymore but one of the lights went out, probably due to removing the seat?

And my mirror doesn't go down when I shift into reverse anymore. Also related to the seats? (prior to me removing the lower section of the steering column)
Old 01-20-2012, 12:02 PM
  #97  
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
 
swoosh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 40
Posts: 30,994
Received 4,732 Likes on 4,064 Posts
FUSE problem

had the same issue....remember replacing a fuse (i dont remember the fuse number thow)....
Old 01-20-2012, 12:53 PM
  #98  
Safety Car
Thread Starter
 
Inaccurate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Houston, Texas
Age: 64
Posts: 4,442
Received 481 Likes on 290 Posts
Originally Posted by vill0169
I'll chime in on this one. When I strap in it's like in Apollo 13 when the guy pushes his foot into the Astronauts chest to get the straps as tight as absolutely possible! lol

I can't do shit in my car when I'm strapped in, just drive and shift lol I gotta get some new harnesses too, Schroth Clubman ftw.
Ok.... I don't think I wear mine THAT snug

Why do you need a new harness?
Old 01-20-2012, 04:05 PM
  #99  
AZ Track Whore
iTrader: (4)
 
vill0169's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Omaha, NE
Age: 36
Posts: 1,674
Received 298 Likes on 212 Posts
Originally Posted by Inaccurate
Ok.... I don't think I wear mine THAT snug

Why do you need a new harness?

snug is an understatement while on track. it really does need to be tight (so to speak )

My harnesses are a few years old and the FIA is somewhat close to expiring, would want them current for competition. Plus it's time for a 5 or 6 point
Old 01-20-2012, 06:06 PM
  #100  
The Track Terror
 
the fenda rolla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 545
Received 76 Likes on 58 Posts
6 point all the way!
Old 01-21-2012, 08:48 PM
  #101  
B A N N E D
 
phatrick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Age: 34
Posts: 229
Received 19 Likes on 18 Posts
Btw which 12v did you tap to bypass the srs module?

Any pics/info would help thanks!
Old 01-22-2012, 12:04 AM
  #102  
Safety Car
Thread Starter
 
Inaccurate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Houston, Texas
Age: 64
Posts: 4,442
Received 481 Likes on 290 Posts
Originally Posted by phatrick
Btw which 12v did you tap to bypass the srs module?

Any pics/info would help thanks!
Cigarette lighter wire under the radio.
Old 01-23-2012, 08:45 PM
  #103  
B A N N E D
 
phatrick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Age: 34
Posts: 229
Received 19 Likes on 18 Posts
Finally got both seats in good. If anyone is considering getting sliders from cypher along with your brackets (cus its only $70) I would recommend not doing it. Their sliders were such a pain in the ass. What should just be a bolt up job ending up being way more. Get sliders made by your respective seat company, it'll save you SO MUCH trouble!
Old 01-23-2012, 09:44 PM
  #104  
Safety Car
Thread Starter
 
Inaccurate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Houston, Texas
Age: 64
Posts: 4,442
Received 481 Likes on 290 Posts
phatrick,

Did you do the pink wire #19 trick to make the SRS light to stay off?
Old 01-26-2012, 11:51 AM
  #105  
B A N N E D
 
phatrick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Age: 34
Posts: 229
Received 19 Likes on 18 Posts
I did not. Got hold of the materials but still unsure.

My block A's #19 wire is not pink.

And which of the two wires did you tap on the 12v? Red/white or black?
Old 01-26-2012, 12:18 PM
  #106  
Safety Car
Thread Starter
 
Inaccurate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Houston, Texas
Age: 64
Posts: 4,442
Received 481 Likes on 290 Posts
Originally Posted by phatrick
I did not. Got hold of the materials but still unsure.

My block A's #19 wire is not pink.

And which of the two wires did you tap on the 12v? Red/white or black?
Tap the Red/white wire.

Could you post a cloes-up pic of your Block A?
Old 01-26-2012, 02:16 PM
  #107  
B A N N E D
 
phatrick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Age: 34
Posts: 229
Received 19 Likes on 18 Posts
Cool I'll give it a try later today and take a pic while I'm doing it. My wires on block A are mainly blue?
Old 01-26-2012, 02:18 PM
  #108  
Safety Car
Thread Starter
 
Inaccurate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Houston, Texas
Age: 64
Posts: 4,442
Received 481 Likes on 290 Posts
Originally Posted by phatrick
My wires on block A are mainly blue?
This sounds VERY fishy

A pic is a "must have" now
Old 01-26-2012, 02:59 PM
  #109  
B A N N E D
 
phatrick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Age: 34
Posts: 229
Received 19 Likes on 18 Posts
Just did the wiring. No srs light fendarolla you need to do this asap bro! Was a 10 minute job(but I did have everything removed ready to do it).

I'll post a pic of my block A in a second.
Old 01-26-2012, 03:08 PM
  #110  
Safety Car
Thread Starter
 
Inaccurate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Houston, Texas
Age: 64
Posts: 4,442
Received 481 Likes on 290 Posts
I am confused now.

You just did the wiring to make the SRS light stay off. How could you do this without knowing where your Pink #19 was located? What wiring did you just do?
Old 01-26-2012, 03:34 PM
  #111  
Intermediate
 
shadow1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 40
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
brian6speed and Inaccurate, please don't install your harnesses directly to the rear seat seatbelt anchors. In a frontal accident, the harness will direct force downward and crush your spine. The harness needs to be anchored straight back; ie, you need a harness bar.
Old 01-26-2012, 03:47 PM
  #112  
Safety Car
Thread Starter
 
Inaccurate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Houston, Texas
Age: 64
Posts: 4,442
Received 481 Likes on 290 Posts
Originally Posted by shadow1
brian6speed and Inaccurate, please don't install your harnesses directly to the rear seat seatbelt anchors. In a frontal accident, the harness will direct force downward and crush your spine. The harness needs to be anchored straight back; ie, you need a harness bar.
Thanks for the concern shadow1.

But, this has been covered already. Please see link below.

To read more on the safety aspects of the racing seats and racing harnesses, please see the thread linked below.

Safety aspects of racing seats and racing harnesses in street cars (click here)


Old 01-26-2012, 04:12 PM
  #113  
The Track Terror
 
the fenda rolla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 545
Received 76 Likes on 58 Posts
Originally Posted by phatrick
Just did the wiring. No srs light fendarolla you need to do this asap bro! Was a 10 minute job(but I did have everything removed ready to do it).

I'll post a pic of my block A in a second.
Nice! In for the quick, concise DIY...
Old 01-26-2012, 04:51 PM
  #114  
AZ Track Whore
iTrader: (4)
 
vill0169's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Omaha, NE
Age: 36
Posts: 1,674
Received 298 Likes on 212 Posts
Originally Posted by shadow1
brian6speed and Inaccurate, please don't install your harnesses directly to the rear seat seatbelt anchors. In a frontal accident, the harness will direct force downward and crush your spine. The harness needs to be anchored straight back; ie, you need a harness bar.


Exactly why I have Schroth ASM belts. Makes this a non-issue.
Old 01-26-2012, 05:59 PM
  #115  
Safety Car
Thread Starter
 
Inaccurate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Houston, Texas
Age: 64
Posts: 4,442
Received 481 Likes on 290 Posts
Originally Posted by vill0169
Exactly why I have Schroth ASM belts. Makes this a non-issue.
I don't understand what makes it a non-issue with the Schroth ASM belts. I did a quick read at the Schroth's web site about the Schroth ASM (Anti-SubMarining) belts and I saw nothing that would indicate why the Schroth ASM belts are immune to needing a harness bar for an *ideal* installation. Can you please explain?
Old 01-26-2012, 06:05 PM
  #116  
Safety Car
Thread Starter
 
Inaccurate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Houston, Texas
Age: 64
Posts: 4,442
Received 481 Likes on 290 Posts
Originally Posted by shadow1
the harness will direct force downward and crush your spine.
This is not true.

Because this is inappropriately receiving some discussion in this thread, I urge readers to read the link below. In the linked thread, it is explained why this is not true.

Basically, the harness is routed thru the back of the seat. Thus, the angle of the force (vector) is causing the belt to pull straight back against the shoulder. The force is not downward and is not appling downward force against the shoulder (spine). The seat is bearing all of the downward force, not the spine.


Safety aspects of racing seats and racing harnesses in street cars (click here)

Last edited by Inaccurate; 01-26-2012 at 06:09 PM.
Old 01-26-2012, 06:46 PM
  #117  
AZ Track Whore
iTrader: (4)
 
vill0169's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Omaha, NE
Age: 36
Posts: 1,674
Received 298 Likes on 212 Posts
Originally Posted by Inaccurate
I don't understand what makes it a non-issue with the Schroth ASM belts. I did a quick read at the Schroth's web site about the Schroth ASM (Anti-SubMarining) belts and I saw nothing that would indicate why the Schroth ASM belts are immune to needing a harness bar for an *ideal* installation. Can you please explain?
The ASM tab on the inboard rear strap of the harness will, in the event of a crash, rip some stitching that makes the tab and gives a certain amount of "slack" on the inside shoulder and prevents the "submarining" affect by making the four point harness act more like a tradition seat belt system with three main restraint points. Mostly used for street cars with stock seats and airbag systems (reason why I'm wanting/needing new ones). All I was saying is that the ASM harnesses are cleared to be mounted on the rear seat belt bolts because of the ASM tab. that's all.

Originally Posted by Inaccurate
This is not true.

Because this is inappropriately receiving some discussion in this thread, I urge readers to read the link below. In the linked thread, it is explained why this is not true.

Basically, the harness is routed thru the back of the seat. Thus, the angle of the force (vector) is causing the belt to pull straight back against the shoulder. The force is not downward and is not appling downward force against the shoulder (spine). The seat is bearing all of the downward force, not the spine.


Safety aspects of racing seats and racing harnesses in street cars (click here)

Your research is impeccable Tim. I completely agree with you but would add that it does matter the relation of the top of your shoulders to the holes in the seat where the harness is coming through. If your shoulders are lower than the seat openings then your words above are 100% valid. Because the harness is resting on the bottom of the harness openings in the seat. If the situation was the opposite though, I would believe that there would be more downward force put on your body being the seat isn't taking much if any of the load because the harness could just be passing through the seat openings and not resting against them.


just my I guess.
The following users liked this post:
Inaccurate (01-26-2012)
Old 01-26-2012, 11:16 PM
  #118  
Safety Car
Thread Starter
 
Inaccurate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Houston, Texas
Age: 64
Posts: 4,442
Received 481 Likes on 290 Posts
Originally Posted by vill0169
it does matter the relation of the top of your shoulders to the holes in the seat where the harness is coming through.
I agree. Good catch. I overlooked this aspect. Selfish thinking on my part because my seat has the bottom of the holes holding the harness level to my shoulder when the belt is pulled tight.

Last edited by Inaccurate; 01-26-2012 at 11:20 PM.
Old 01-30-2012, 12:02 AM
  #119  
Instructor
iTrader: (32)
 
Skier4lyfe303's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 207
Likes: 0
Received 76 Likes on 46 Posts
Originally Posted by phatrick
Just did the wiring. No srs light fendarolla you need to do this asap bro! Was a 10 minute job(but I did have everything removed ready to do it).

I'll post a pic of my block A in a second.
Can you post this pic? I am interested in bypassing the SRS light.
Old 01-31-2012, 09:00 AM
  #120  
Lone Wolf
iTrader: (5)
 
brian6speed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5,982
Received 497 Likes on 399 Posts
Originally Posted by Inaccurate


CHANGING TOPICS - Interesting topic about "living pig-tied to your seat".

First, let me remind everyone that it is gravely important that your harness be worn very tight against your body. Do NOT wear the harness loose for your comfort. The racing harness becomes ineffective when adjusted too loose against your body.

Ditto what phatrick said above.

It is a strange feeling being pig-tied so closely against the seat and being unable to move. I remember my first impression of driving with my harness. It was a scary feeling (psychology) of being so tied to the car as a whole. Somewhat like claustrophobia. My mind was now painfully aware of me and the car being "One" together in an accident. A freaky feeling. I actually drove slow and careful for a few weeks until that feeling went away.

With the racing harness, you can not reach over to grab something from the passenger seat.

Sometimes it is awkward not being able to look "over my shoulder" to see if it is safe to pull out in traffic when my car is positioned at a strange angle to the road. In those cases, I try to pull up a little bit and re-position the car so that I can see without looking "over my shoulder".

It is awkward not being able to lean forward to look around the A-Pillar post when driving in tight areas like a parking lot, parking garage, making turns when space is tight.

You can not reach into you pockets. I always make sure that my cell phone is located in my shirt pocket, easily within reach. When I am finished with the phone, I put it back into my shirt pocket. If I laid the phone down and it fell, I would not be able to reach down to pick it up.

And, hope that you do not get an itch. You can reach very limited areas of your body to scratch if you developed an itch.

But looking at the big picture, these thing are easily overlooked and you will adjust to the new way of life after about a month of daily driving. I love my racing seats and racing harness. I have no regrets. You could not pay me enough money to make me go back to the oem setup.
I wanted to post about my experience with a bucket seat/harness in daily driving situations.

You start with getting in the car. I unbuckle the harness first and move the belt buckles to sides of seat. I am more careful now and sort of slip my body into the bucket seat without scraping seat edge. You can move the slider back and remove the steering wheel from the quick release if you need more room, but it is not necessary for me. Next, you want to half close the door. If you leave the door fully open and snap into harness you can't reach the door to close it. Then I lean forward in the seat and put the shoulder straps over shoulders. Then I close the door and buckle up. Make sure you take your keys and phone out of your pants pockets before sitting down.

Now on to the driving aspect. You can't really move to reach radio, passenger seat, glovebox etc. I can still reach my window controls, mirror controls, and locks tho. This setup along with the manual tranny forces you to focus on driving and not all the distractions everyone else focuses on. The hardest thing to get used to is the different seating angle/position. For me personally, I have an issue with my side mirrors blocking my vision when trying to turn. It is also harder to judge distance when trying to park.

Overall I think my recaro bucket is more comfortable than my stock seat. The only issue I have is that the seat is so narrow that it forces you to keep your legs together and it is uncomfortable for my man vegetables. Have to adjust them every once in awhile.

Another thing to think about is going thru drivethru's or atms. You will most likely need to unbuckle to do this. I don't bother going thru atms anymore just get out of the car. When I go through drive thru's I think I always get a comment about the seat or gutted interior.

As for feeling safe, I never felt less safe this way. I do get more nervous if I see cops now tho. I assume if they notice the car is gutted and or the seat/harness they will pull me over for sure.


Quick Reply: DIY: Racing Seats



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:20 AM.