DIY: Racing Seats

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Old 01-31-2012, 09:47 AM
  #121  
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I see that we are starting to lose valuable pics in this thread. So, I will be periodically making back-ups of pics to prevent the loss of valuable thread content.

When reading a thread, I hate seeing a pic like this



Below is the pic from Post #91 by "phatrick"


Old 01-31-2012, 10:06 AM
  #122  
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Below is the pic from Post #71 by "brian6speed"







Below is the pic from Post #27 by "the fenda rolla"











Old 01-31-2012, 10:34 AM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by phatrick
My block A's #19 wire is not pink. My wires on block A are mainly blue?
Originally Posted by Inaccurate
This sounds VERY fishy
A pic is a "must have" now
Originally Posted by phatrick
Just did the wiring. No srs light fendarolla you need to do this asap bro! Was a 10 minute job(but I did have everything removed ready to do it).

I'll post a pic of my block A in a second.
Originally Posted by Inaccurate
I am confused now.
You just did the wiring to make the SRS light stay off. How could you do this without knowing where your Pink #19 was located? What wiring did you just do?
Because "phatrick" did not followed-up regarding this string of post, I will take a stab at what I think happened here. I can see how it could happen to some one else so I want to clear it up.

When you are looking for the Pink #19 wire, be sure to look on the ECU unit and *not* the SRS unit ( which has the yellow wiring harness) (see pic below).

The SRS wiring harness has a yellow protective covering with mainly blue wires. You do *not* want these wires. You need to move further forward to the other "metal box", which is the ECU. The ECU metal box is larger in size than the SRS metal box. The Pink #19 is connected to the ECU, not the SRS unit.


Old 02-01-2012, 03:55 PM
  #124  
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Inacc, I wanted to ask you about those pegasus eyebolts and washers you used. Would it be ok to drill thru the floor and use those or do you need the extra support of where a stock bolt originally was? Just wondering if there is enough support in an accident or will it rip/bend the floorboard?
Old 02-01-2012, 06:40 PM
  #125  
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So Inaccurate, just to clarify, what exactly do we need to do with the pink #19 wire to disable the airbag light?
Old 02-01-2012, 10:22 PM
  #126  
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Racing seats in TL ?
What is the point? Are going to smoke GTR or Z06?
Planning on taking any long trips?I hope not.
Old 02-02-2012, 08:23 AM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by Boartman
Racing seats in TL ?
What is the point? Are going to smoke GTR or Z06?
Planning on taking any long trips?I hope not.
Why do idiots like this even post. My racing seat is more comfortable than stock seat. Taken many trips that are 2-3 hours no problems at all.
Old 02-02-2012, 09:37 AM
  #128  
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I agree of course. But with forums, people have the right / freedom to voice their opinion..... even when it is inappropriately placed (like in a DIY thread).

All we can do is to ignore it for what it is.
Old 02-02-2012, 12:02 PM
  #129  
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Inaccurate, do you know what we need to do to the Pink #19 wire to disable the airbag light?
Old 02-02-2012, 12:39 PM
  #130  
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WARNING TO ALL - PLEASE DISREGARD MY POST #123 (DATED 01-31-2012, 10:34 AM).

I made a mistake in Post #123. Please disregard the entire post (#123).

Last edited by Inaccurate; 02-02-2012 at 12:54 PM.
Old 02-02-2012, 12:53 PM
  #131  
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Originally Posted by the fenda rolla
What exactly do we need to do with the pink #19 wire to disable the airbag light?


***** WARNING: THE ENTIRE AIRBAG SYSTEM MIGHT *NOT* BE OPERATING IF YOU BYPASS THE SRS WARNING LIGHT AS SHOWN BELOW *****


WARNING - With the SRS light being bypassed as shown below, you will not be able to know if the airbag system (SRS) truly is having a malfunction. In essence, you are disabling the warning light to warn of any malfunctions in the air bag system. Thus, you will never know (without a bona fide activation) if your air bags are truly functional or not.




IF you ever want to remove the ENTIRE srs system, below shows you how to do it.

The pic below show where the SRS unit is located. You will need to remove the side panels from the center console to gain access to this area.




In the pic below, this is what the SRS computer looks like.




The pic below is a close-up pic of where the SRS Unit had been. It is GONE now. Notice the three yellow connectors that had been plugged into the SRS unit.





In the pic below, please notice that there are three connector blocks -- those yellow blocks that plug into the SRS unit. They are named "CONNECTOR A", "CONNECTOR B", and "CONNECTOR C".






The pic below is the most important. Please notice that Block A has a wire #19 -AND- Block B has a #19 Too !!!! Make sure that you get the pink wire #19 on Block A.




After you find the pink #19 on Block A, you need to make a jumper wire from the cigarette lighter (serving as a source of 12 volts with key-on only) to this pink wire #19 on Block A. The cigarette lighter (accessory socket) is located in the area below the radio. Tap into the Red wire connected to the cigarette lighter.

The idea is to supply 12 volts to this pink #19 on Block A. This tells the main computer that everything is OK with the SRS (lying to the main computer).

Let me know if you need more pics or for me to be more clear.
Old 02-03-2012, 08:12 AM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by brian6speed
Inacc, I wanted to ask you about those pegasus eyebolts and washers you used. Would it be ok to drill thru the floor and use those or do you need the extra support of where a stock bolt originally was? Just wondering if there is enough support in an accident or will it rip/bend the floorboard?
Can anyone answer this for me?
Old 02-03-2012, 10:34 AM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by brian6speed
Inacc, I wanted to ask you about those pegasus eyebolts and washers you used. Would it be ok to drill thru the floor and use those or do you need the extra support of where a stock bolt originally was? Just wondering if there is enough support in an accident or will it rip/bend the floorboard?

This post will explain what I felt comfortable with and my logic for my actions.

I did drill my own holes for the seat mounts and the anti-sub belt. For my lap belt anchors, I reamed the hole that was originally used for the oem seat bracket.

In some cases with the factory holes, the factory does use a reinforcement plate around the hole. However, the reinforcement plate appears to be less strong, less thick, and of equal surface area compared to the large washer that is pictured below.




For holes that I drilled that lacked the oem reinforcement plate and for oem holes that did already have a reinforcement plate, I felt comfortable that the anchor would not pull thru the floorboard during the most severe collision provided that the large load-spreading thick Grade 8 steel washer was being used. In addition to the large load-spreading washer pictured above, I also used two other Grade 8 steel washers with less diameter to create a step-down effect to the overall washer stack. I did this to prevent the nut itself from being pulled thru the large washer.

It is commonly agreed that the worst-case scenario is that the occupant will experience a 20G force during a collision (again, worst case condition). So for my 145-lb body, this would equate to a 3000 pound force during a 20G impact. From an engineering perspective, you must constantly ask yourself this question - "Will this bolt (or seat mount, belt mount, etc.) withstand the anticipated load in the anticipated direction". For example with the shoulder seatbelt mounts, could the whole car (3000 lbs) be hoisted up via those two mount ? Intuition was used to answer these questions to my satisfaction.

As a reminder, please see this link (click here) (which is post #4 of this thread) for additional info.
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Old 02-03-2012, 10:41 AM
  #134  
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Woops I forgot to update. I did tap the blue ish wire on the block A on the SRS side harness.

Did not know I was suppose to tap into the ecu. Strangely enough if I did it wrong, it still got rid of the air bag light?

I'll post a pic when I get home tonight.
Old 02-03-2012, 10:54 AM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by phatrick
Woops I forgot to update. I did tap the blue ish wire on the block A on the SRS side harness.
You did it correctly. Interesting that your wire was not Pink. Mine is a 2006 also. I wonder if the difference is 6MT versus 5AT.

In case you missed my follow-up, I made a mistake in Post #123. Please disregard the entire post (#123).
Old 02-03-2012, 01:58 PM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by Inaccurate
You did it correctly. Interesting that your wire was not Pink. Mine is a 2006 also. I wonder if the difference is 6MT versus 5AT.

In case you missed my follow-up, I made a mistake in Post #123. Please disregard the entire post (#123).
Ah I see. Maybe. Or maybe even model year? Or maybe Acura just ran out of pink wire haha.
Old 02-04-2012, 09:25 PM
  #137  
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Quick question did you guys lose your reverse mirror tilt when you took your oem seats out?

I know swoosh said it was a fuse but I don't know if that's right since they still move when I use the little pad.
Old 02-04-2012, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by phatrick
did you guys lose your reverse mirror tilt when you took your oem seats out?
I have never used this feature (by choice). So I can't say if mine stopped working after I removed my oem seats.
Old 02-04-2012, 10:13 PM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by phatrick
Quick question did you guys lose your reverse mirror tilt when you took your oem seats out?

I know swoosh said it was a fuse but I don't know if that's right since they still move when I use the little pad.

sounds like apples and oranges to me.
Old 02-05-2012, 12:16 AM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by phatrick
Quick question did you guys lose your reverse mirror tilt when you took your oem seats out?

I know swoosh said it was a fuse but I don't know if that's right since they still move when I use the little pad.
Phatrick....i dont have my seats removed so cant comment on that....

but from my experience:

the rear view mirror is on 2 circuits:
1> down and right (of left) dont remember
2> up and left (or right)

so if up and (say) left is working, its a fuse issue....also apparently my wiper motor fuse was blown....

i disconnected the battery and one by removed all the fuses and checked em and put em back in (replaced one blown fuse)...this actually solved 3 issues:

1> memory seat was not working
2> wiper motor
3> mirror tilt issue

Hope that helps....
Old 02-06-2012, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Inaccurate
I have never used this feature (by choice). So I can't say if mine stopped working after I removed my oem seats.
Should check for me
Old 02-06-2012, 11:06 PM
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Strange...my passenger rear view stopped automatically tilting down when in reverse right after I uninstalled the stock seats too...
Old 02-06-2012, 11:55 PM
  #143  
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Originally Posted by the fenda rolla
Strange...my passenger rear view stopped automatically tilting down when in reverse right after I uninstalled the stock seats too...
Can't be a coincidence then haha. It's tied to the memory seats so once we lost that, it doesn't tilt anymore. Weak, I really liked that and could use it with how low my seats are right now.
Old 02-07-2012, 12:21 PM
  #144  
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Hmmm...seems like another thing we'll hafta trick...
Old 02-07-2012, 12:30 PM
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^^^ so the mirrors work using the button (both mirrors in all 4 directions) ? but dont auto tilt.....right ?
Old 02-07-2012, 01:13 PM
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The Service Manual shows that the Reverse Mirror Control feature is controlled by the Power Seat Control Unit (red arrow in pic).

Thus, removing the oem driver seat will prevent the mirror tilting in reverse gear. However, normal operation of the power mirrors will still work.

If someone really wanted to keep the tilting mirror, they could try removing the Power Seat Control Unit from the oem seat and plugging the wires back into the box itself.

Last edited by Inaccurate; 02-07-2012 at 01:18 PM.
Old 02-07-2012, 01:44 PM
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Tim...you SIR are GREAAATTTT !!!

damn how to you find all this stuff ???? WOWZERS !!!
Old 02-07-2012, 04:04 PM
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^^^ then again, that's just moar weight...
Old 02-08-2012, 11:50 PM
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Hmm I do want that tilt function. I wonder how hard it is to remove..
Old 02-12-2012, 07:37 PM
  #150  
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I know I'm just dropping more headaches in this thread, but my trunk release button also doesn't work. Guessing it too is tied to the power control box. I'm gonna try to swap it over tonight. Will document with pics. (for real this time) lol
Old 02-12-2012, 10:28 PM
  #151  
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My electric trunk release works. Check the master switch (valet switch) in your glove box.
Old 02-12-2012, 10:39 PM
  #152  
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I love u guys are doing this! I might try to do this next year... Already spent to much this year lol.
Old 02-12-2012, 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Inaccurate
My electric trunk release works. Check the master switch (valet switch) in your glove box.
AH that might be it. I have that panel removed..
Old 04-17-2012, 10:51 PM
  #154  
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Just installed some Brides an some Takatas in my 05, loving the new look but just like y'all guys a lot of my options arent working also
Old 04-17-2012, 11:54 PM
  #155  
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k.r.e.a.m.,

Do you have any pics? We would love to see it
Old 04-17-2012, 11:59 PM
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Old 04-20-2012, 10:10 PM
  #157  
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This whole thread makes me want to get seats. Eventhough my car is just a DD. If I tell my wife it will make the car safer - her response will be "you should get new seats".
Old 05-16-2012, 12:22 AM
  #158  
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my seat

First, thanks for everyone who contibuted to this topic. You've been a great source of info. I've successfully installed a DRIVER seat using stock seatbelts and not having the SRS light come on. I'm using a Sparco Milano. For my 2005 TL, the three connectors that are required to prevent the SRS light to come on are: Air bag connector, seat positioning sensor and seat belt connector. This , of course, means you have to gut out the driver's seat harness from the stock seat and use it under your aftermarket seat. If any of these are not plugged in, the SRS light will come on. Interestingly, the SRS light will go off automatically once all are plugged in. I did not have to re-set the SRS light. According to my service manual, the 2004 TL does not have a seat position sensor. This doo-dad is located at the rear right rail of the seat. I guess it determines how powerful the front air bag will deploy depending how close you sit the the steering wheel. I chose not to solder the air bag wire, I took out the side air bag from the stock seat.
Here are some pics:
I also plugged in the power seat control unit to have the tilting rear view mirrors when in reverse


Here's how the wiring looks tucked underneath the seat:


Here's a shot of the seat:
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Old 05-16-2012, 06:53 AM
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BACKING UP THE PICS - Below are the pics from Post #158 by "jchcmax"


Originally Posted by jchcmax
Here are some pics:
I also plugged in the power seat control unit to have the tilting rear view mirrors when in reverse.



Originally Posted by jchcmax
Here's how the wiring looks tucked underneath the seat:



Originally Posted by jchcmax
Here's a shot of the seat:



Thanks for contributing jchcmax
Old 05-16-2012, 09:11 AM
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very well done JCMAXXX....what seat brackets did you use ?


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