DIY: Racing Seats
#121
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I see that we are starting to lose valuable pics in this thread. So, I will be periodically making back-ups of pics to prevent the loss of valuable thread content.
When reading a thread, I hate seeing a pic like this
Below is the pic from Post #91 by "phatrick"
When reading a thread, I hate seeing a pic like this
Below is the pic from Post #91 by "phatrick"
#123
Safety Car
Thread Starter
When you are looking for the Pink #19 wire, be sure to look on the ECU unit and *not* the SRS unit ( which has the yellow wiring harness) (see pic below).
The SRS wiring harness has a yellow protective covering with mainly blue wires. You do *not* want these wires. You need to move further forward to the other "metal box", which is the ECU. The ECU metal box is larger in size than the SRS metal box. The Pink #19 is connected to the ECU, not the SRS unit.
#124
Inacc, I wanted to ask you about those pegasus eyebolts and washers you used. Would it be ok to drill thru the floor and use those or do you need the extra support of where a stock bolt originally was? Just wondering if there is enough support in an accident or will it rip/bend the floorboard?
#127
#128
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I agree of course. But with forums, people have the right / freedom to voice their opinion..... even when it is inappropriately placed (like in a DIY thread).
All we can do is to ignore it for what it is.
All we can do is to ignore it for what it is.
#130
Safety Car
Thread Starter
WARNING TO ALL - PLEASE DISREGARD MY POST #123 (DATED 01-31-2012, 10:34 AM).
I made a mistake in Post #123. Please disregard the entire post (#123).
I made a mistake in Post #123. Please disregard the entire post (#123).
Last edited by Inaccurate; 02-02-2012 at 12:54 PM.
#131
Safety Car
Thread Starter
***** WARNING: THE ENTIRE AIRBAG SYSTEM MIGHT *NOT* BE OPERATING IF YOU BYPASS THE SRS WARNING LIGHT AS SHOWN BELOW *****
WARNING - With the SRS light being bypassed as shown below, you will not be able to know if the airbag system (SRS) truly is having a malfunction. In essence, you are disabling the warning light to warn of any malfunctions in the air bag system. Thus, you will never know (without a bona fide activation) if your air bags are truly functional or not.
IF you ever want to remove the ENTIRE srs system, below shows you how to do it.
The pic below show where the SRS unit is located. You will need to remove the side panels from the center console to gain access to this area.
In the pic below, this is what the SRS computer looks like.
The pic below is a close-up pic of where the SRS Unit had been. It is GONE now. Notice the three yellow connectors that had been plugged into the SRS unit.
In the pic below, please notice that there are three connector blocks -- those yellow blocks that plug into the SRS unit. They are named "CONNECTOR A", "CONNECTOR B", and "CONNECTOR C".
The pic below is the most important. Please notice that Block A has a wire #19 -AND- Block B has a #19 Too !!!! Make sure that you get the pink wire #19 on Block A.
After you find the pink #19 on Block A, you need to make a jumper wire from the cigarette lighter (serving as a source of 12 volts with key-on only) to this pink wire #19 on Block A. The cigarette lighter (accessory socket) is located in the area below the radio. Tap into the Red wire connected to the cigarette lighter.
The idea is to supply 12 volts to this pink #19 on Block A. This tells the main computer that everything is OK with the SRS (lying to the main computer).
Let me know if you need more pics or for me to be more clear.
#132
Inacc, I wanted to ask you about those pegasus eyebolts and washers you used. Would it be ok to drill thru the floor and use those or do you need the extra support of where a stock bolt originally was? Just wondering if there is enough support in an accident or will it rip/bend the floorboard?
#133
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Inacc, I wanted to ask you about those pegasus eyebolts and washers you used. Would it be ok to drill thru the floor and use those or do you need the extra support of where a stock bolt originally was? Just wondering if there is enough support in an accident or will it rip/bend the floorboard?
This post will explain what I felt comfortable with and my logic for my actions.
I did drill my own holes for the seat mounts and the anti-sub belt. For my lap belt anchors, I reamed the hole that was originally used for the oem seat bracket.
In some cases with the factory holes, the factory does use a reinforcement plate around the hole. However, the reinforcement plate appears to be less strong, less thick, and of equal surface area compared to the large washer that is pictured below.
For holes that I drilled that lacked the oem reinforcement plate and for oem holes that did already have a reinforcement plate, I felt comfortable that the anchor would not pull thru the floorboard during the most severe collision provided that the large load-spreading thick Grade 8 steel washer was being used. In addition to the large load-spreading washer pictured above, I also used two other Grade 8 steel washers with less diameter to create a step-down effect to the overall washer stack. I did this to prevent the nut itself from being pulled thru the large washer.
It is commonly agreed that the worst-case scenario is that the occupant will experience a 20G force during a collision (again, worst case condition). So for my 145-lb body, this would equate to a 3000 pound force during a 20G impact. From an engineering perspective, you must constantly ask yourself this question - "Will this bolt (or seat mount, belt mount, etc.) withstand the anticipated load in the anticipated direction". For example with the shoulder seatbelt mounts, could the whole car (3000 lbs) be hoisted up via those two mount ? Intuition was used to answer these questions to my satisfaction.
As a reminder, please see this link (click here) (which is post #4 of this thread) for additional info.
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brian6speed (02-03-2012)
#134
Woops I forgot to update. I did tap the blue ish wire on the block A on the SRS side harness.
Did not know I was suppose to tap into the ecu. Strangely enough if I did it wrong, it still got rid of the air bag light?
I'll post a pic when I get home tonight.
Did not know I was suppose to tap into the ecu. Strangely enough if I did it wrong, it still got rid of the air bag light?
I'll post a pic when I get home tonight.
#135
Safety Car
Thread Starter
In case you missed my follow-up, I made a mistake in Post #123. Please disregard the entire post (#123).
#136
Ah I see. Maybe. Or maybe even model year? Or maybe Acura just ran out of pink wire haha.
#137
Quick question did you guys lose your reverse mirror tilt when you took your oem seats out?
I know swoosh said it was a fuse but I don't know if that's right since they still move when I use the little pad.
I know swoosh said it was a fuse but I don't know if that's right since they still move when I use the little pad.
#140
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but from my experience:
the rear view mirror is on 2 circuits:
1> down and right (of left) dont remember
2> up and left (or right)
so if up and (say) left is working, its a fuse issue....also apparently my wiper motor fuse was blown....
i disconnected the battery and one by removed all the fuses and checked em and put em back in (replaced one blown fuse)...this actually solved 3 issues:
1> memory seat was not working
2> wiper motor
3> mirror tilt issue
Hope that helps....
#143
Can't be a coincidence then haha. It's tied to the memory seats so once we lost that, it doesn't tilt anymore. Weak, I really liked that and could use it with how low my seats are right now.
#145
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^^^ so the mirrors work using the button (both mirrors in all 4 directions) ? but dont auto tilt.....right ?
#146
Safety Car
Thread Starter
The Service Manual shows that the Reverse Mirror Control feature is controlled by the Power Seat Control Unit (red arrow in pic).
Thus, removing the oem driver seat will prevent the mirror tilting in reverse gear. However, normal operation of the power mirrors will still work.
If someone really wanted to keep the tilting mirror, they could try removing the Power Seat Control Unit from the oem seat and plugging the wires back into the box itself.
Last edited by Inaccurate; 02-07-2012 at 01:18 PM.
#147
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Tim...you SIR are GREAAATTTT !!!
damn how to you find all this stuff ???? WOWZERS !!!
damn how to you find all this stuff ???? WOWZERS !!!
#150
I know I'm just dropping more headaches in this thread, but my trunk release button also doesn't work. Guessing it too is tied to the power control box. I'm gonna try to swap it over tonight. Will document with pics. (for real this time) lol
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#157
#158
Registered VTEC junkie
my seat
First, thanks for everyone who contibuted to this topic. You've been a great source of info. I've successfully installed a DRIVER seat using stock seatbelts and not having the SRS light come on. I'm using a Sparco Milano. For my 2005 TL, the three connectors that are required to prevent the SRS light to come on are: Air bag connector, seat positioning sensor and seat belt connector. This , of course, means you have to gut out the driver's seat harness from the stock seat and use it under your aftermarket seat. If any of these are not plugged in, the SRS light will come on. Interestingly, the SRS light will go off automatically once all are plugged in. I did not have to re-set the SRS light. According to my service manual, the 2004 TL does not have a seat position sensor. This doo-dad is located at the rear right rail of the seat. I guess it determines how powerful the front air bag will deploy depending how close you sit the the steering wheel. I chose not to solder the air bag wire, I took out the side air bag from the stock seat.
Here are some pics:
I also plugged in the power seat control unit to have the tilting rear view mirrors when in reverse
Here's how the wiring looks tucked underneath the seat:
Here's a shot of the seat:
Here are some pics:
I also plugged in the power seat control unit to have the tilting rear view mirrors when in reverse
Here's how the wiring looks tucked underneath the seat:
Here's a shot of the seat:
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Inaccurate (05-16-2012)
#160
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very well done JCMAXXX....what seat brackets did you use ?