Custom J-Pipe
06-28-2007, 11:27 PM
#124
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well.....since i am running a bigger engine and higher boost, I was thinking 450cc should be better then 320cc. It's always better to run them at a lower duty cycle anyways.
06-29-2007, 12:18 AM
#126
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06-29-2007, 12:40 AM
#127
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Just to double check, so the RSX-S injectors are interchangable with the TL ones? So it would fit into the engine directly and the wire harness would clip in without any modification?
06-29-2007, 08:19 AM
#128
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by NocturnalTypeS
07-01-2007, 02:00 AM
#129
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Originally Posted by HQTL6SPD
nobody is sure if it will bolt right up yet, it may have to be lightly modified to fit... we really aren't sure yet since nobody has tried it yet.. it won't be wasted money since a shop can make it fit if slightly off, give it a try and let us know...
I would but i have the new type s so im not sure if the bigger engine would cause a problem in making it fit
07-05-2007, 08:51 PM
#130
Three Wheelin'
Just came up with this idea (No Flaming Please)
Here's the pic:
Shot at 2007-07-05
These are the cats: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-5-C...27374586QQrdZ1
or most likely these: http://www.metalcat.com.au/ with additional bung holes if not offered with cats.
My theory is to unbolt oem downpipe, and build a new one from scratch. I know it sounds expensive, but the shop i go to is very fair in pricing. This whole thing is with custom stainless piping, only thing is, i just have no idea where to get the primary flanges, i'm guessing the 3rd flange is easy to find. It would also require two seperate bung holes to be welded to the very begining of each piping side. These are like $10-$15 a peice on ebay. What do you guys think of this set-up for a NA? Are there any problems using a y pipe to connect downpipes? Another thing, i really need to know if it is absolutly necessary to have three cats to pass inspection? Has anyone had their TL inspected with just 2 cats (whether oem or e-shift cats)?
Reason for all this is basically it'll take forever for a large company to make a downpipe for our cars(if it even happens), also i wouldn''t feel great about dropping $1100 for just cats w/o replacment piping in between the cats... I no longer have warrany, so it's not an issue.
Shot at 2007-07-05
These are the cats: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-5-C...27374586QQrdZ1
or most likely these: http://www.metalcat.com.au/ with additional bung holes if not offered with cats.
My theory is to unbolt oem downpipe, and build a new one from scratch. I know it sounds expensive, but the shop i go to is very fair in pricing. This whole thing is with custom stainless piping, only thing is, i just have no idea where to get the primary flanges, i'm guessing the 3rd flange is easy to find. It would also require two seperate bung holes to be welded to the very begining of each piping side. These are like $10-$15 a peice on ebay. What do you guys think of this set-up for a NA? Are there any problems using a y pipe to connect downpipes? Another thing, i really need to know if it is absolutly necessary to have three cats to pass inspection? Has anyone had their TL inspected with just 2 cats (whether oem or e-shift cats)?
Reason for all this is basically it'll take forever for a large company to make a downpipe for our cars(if it even happens), also i wouldn''t feel great about dropping $1100 for just cats w/o replacment piping in between the cats... I no longer have warrany, so it's not an issue.
07-06-2007, 12:39 AM
#133
Your setup sounds Ok but from what i know about it you don't want to run straight pipes (2 cat delete) AND a larger J-pipe because of back pressure issues on NA. Do one or the other, not both. Magnaflow sounds good...
From what i read on the accord forums the OBX systems fits but causes a CEL
From what i read on the accord forums the OBX systems fits but causes a CEL
07-06-2007, 07:09 AM
#135
Originally Posted by HQTL6SPD
Or, a less insane way i just thought of... buy OBX downpipe for V6 accord, then just add 2 Cats.... and done hehe
I was thinking the same as you. The top and bottom sensor bungs are there, just cut out the section of the header pipe and weld in some high flow cats.
The OBX pipes are selling for $350 plus shipping and the cat's look to be no more than $100 a piece. But, then you need someone to weld them up for you. Still it would still be less than $1K for the E-Shift cats.
The header flanges for the newer Accords are supposed to be the same as our TL (3.2L), but I haven't seen anyone who has actually confirmed that the OBX will bolt right up. Part of the fear is that OBX has issues with the fit, but if you plan to add the CAT's, then it won't be a problem as long as the flanges bolt up.
07-06-2007, 07:13 AM
#136
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by HQTL6SPD
Or, a less insane way i just thought of... buy OBX downpipe for V6 accord, then just add 2 Cats.... and done hehe
07-06-2007, 07:16 AM
#137
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by KN_TL
There's another post regarding the fit of an Accord cat-back where a member bought the OBX pipes but never installed it because his shop refused to do so.
I was thinking the same as you. The top and bottom sensor bungs are there, just cut out the section of the header pipe and weld in some high flow cats.
The OBX pipes are selling for $350 plus shipping and the cat's look to be no more than $100 a piece. But, then you need someone to weld them up for you. Still it would still be less than $1K for the E-Shift cats.
The header flanges for the newer Accords are supposed to be the same as our TL (3.2L), but I haven't seen anyone who has actually confirmed that the OBX will bolt right up. Part of the fear is that OBX has issues with the fit, but if you plan to add the CAT's, then it won't be a problem as long as the flanges bolt up.
I was thinking the same as you. The top and bottom sensor bungs are there, just cut out the section of the header pipe and weld in some high flow cats.
The OBX pipes are selling for $350 plus shipping and the cat's look to be no more than $100 a piece. But, then you need someone to weld them up for you. Still it would still be less than $1K for the E-Shift cats.
The header flanges for the newer Accords are supposed to be the same as our TL (3.2L), but I haven't seen anyone who has actually confirmed that the OBX will bolt right up. Part of the fear is that OBX has issues with the fit, but if you plan to add the CAT's, then it won't be a problem as long as the flanges bolt up.
I will try this in near future once i talk to my shop. If it doesn't bolt right up, they won't be lazy and say no, they'll get it to fit!
07-08-2007, 04:57 AM
#138
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There is a guy on that tried this on his AV6 6MT and didnt like it. He said it ran pig rich and sounded terrible. He actually had the pre-cats put back on and did a custom j-pipe. He also said it had to be fabricated to fit, although I think thats a given.
07-12-2007, 09:56 PM
#139
hondata update
So my car has been with hondata almost two weeks. It runs phenomenal with the HBP and RSX injectors. It was surging at first but its completely gone.
They made big changes to the old reflash, thats why it hasn't been soo long coming. The comptech ACM is removed, and all the tuning is directly to the ECU. No check engine lights so far.
The low end torque increase is great and coupled with the J-pipe I'm FINALLY happy with the low end torque...drives similar to my brothers G35. I have numbers, which are impressive but I can't release them yet.
They made big changes to the old reflash, thats why it hasn't been soo long coming. The comptech ACM is removed, and all the tuning is directly to the ECU. No check engine lights so far.
The low end torque increase is great and coupled with the J-pipe I'm FINALLY happy with the low end torque...drives similar to my brothers G35. I have numbers, which are impressive but I can't release them yet.
07-13-2007, 12:27 AM
#140
Originally Posted by ussi
So my car has been with hondata almost two weeks. It runs phenomenal with the HBP and RSX injectors. It was surging at first but its completely gone.
They made big changes to the old reflash, thats why it hasn't been soo long coming. The comptech ACM is removed, and all the tuning is directly to the ECU. No check engine lights so far.
The low end torque increase is great and coupled with the J-pipe I'm FINALLY happy with the low end torque...drives similar to my brothers G35. I have numbers, which are impressive but I can't release them yet.
They made big changes to the old reflash, thats why it hasn't been soo long coming. The comptech ACM is removed, and all the tuning is directly to the ECU. No check engine lights so far.
The low end torque increase is great and coupled with the J-pipe I'm FINALLY happy with the low end torque...drives similar to my brothers G35. I have numbers, which are impressive but I can't release them yet.
07-13-2007, 08:15 AM
#141
Originally Posted by ussi
So my car has been with hondata almost two weeks. It runs phenomenal with the HBP and RSX injectors. It was surging at first but its completely gone.
They made big changes to the old reflash, thats why it hasn't been soo long coming. The comptech ACM is removed, and all the tuning is directly to the ECU. No check engine lights so far.
The low end torque increase is great and coupled with the J-pipe I'm FINALLY happy with the low end torque...drives similar to my brothers G35. I have numbers, which are impressive but I can't release them yet.
They made big changes to the old reflash, thats why it hasn't been soo long coming. The comptech ACM is removed, and all the tuning is directly to the ECU. No check engine lights so far.
The low end torque increase is great and coupled with the J-pipe I'm FINALLY happy with the low end torque...drives similar to my brothers G35. I have numbers, which are impressive but I can't release them yet.
07-13-2007, 12:08 PM
#142
^Yes, they have to finish testing on my car (2 more days sometime next week) to perfect it and Then they'll do testing on an automatic. They bought the equipment to you will be able to mail in just your ecu for you out of staters
07-13-2007, 09:21 PM
#146
'10 Hyundai Genesis Coupe
Originally Posted by ACTROS
Great news indeed!!! Thanks Ussi
I gather you can't tell your dyno numbers just yet, but I expect your car to be a monster now!
Thanks Ussi I gather you can't tell your dyno numbers just yet, but I expect your car to be a monster now!
Hey you're from NYC, are you going to any meets this summer, because I'd like to see your car. I've never seen a S/C TL yet, I'd like to S/C mine, but I don't think I can justify the cost.
07-13-2007, 11:48 PM
#147
All my dyno runs were on a dynopack, dynometer which read higher than a dynojet. Once i'm 100% tuned I'll get it dyno'd on a dynojet on my own so i can post some #'s. On one run done on the dynopack I was around 330/265 - before tuning and HBP, however the TRQ is not accurate, somehow that graph got F'd up. My final A/F ratio after tuning and all is 12:1.
07-23-2007, 08:24 AM
#148
Originally Posted by Eoanou
Hey you're from NYC, are you going to any meets this summer, because I'd like to see your car. I've never seen a S/C TL yet, I'd like to S/C mine, but I don't think I can justify the cost.
It's unlikely that I'd be at any local meets this summer, shortage of time, but you can find me at E-shift, sometimes, rarely! You are welcome to see or ride in my car any time you catch me though
As for the blower cost, hell yeah it's expensive and the spending doesn't just stop at buying the blower, you are going to need all kind of stuff afterwards, like better brakes, tires, stiffer suspension, etc. if you don't already have all that. And then the fuel tuning to get rid of the surge
Just a couple of things you'll need to better enjoy the newfound power and speed not to mention the higher maintenance costs. Is it worth going for, it depends on your situation and the way you look at it, as for me I don't regret spending all the money and time at all, I feel joy just driving my car every day!
07-23-2007, 08:28 AM
#149
Originally Posted by ussi
All my dyno runs were on a dynopack, dynometer which read higher than a dynojet. Once i'm 100% tuned I'll get it dyno'd on a dynojet on my own so i can post some #'s. On one run done on the dynopack I was around 330/265 - before tuning and HBP, however the TRQ is not accurate, somehow that graph got F'd up. My final A/F ratio after tuning and all is 12:1.
Sounds very good
Any news???
07-23-2007, 01:40 PM
#150
^taking my car back for some final tuning on wednesday. My freaking belt starting to tear again! But i caught it and managed to salvage it before it tore completely. I called comptech about it and how its torn like 3-4 times on me and they were happy to send me a replacement belt till they found out i purchased a HBP. apparently if you've purchased it good luck with getting any sort of warranty out of them. After 15 min of some convincing they're sending me one as a goodwill. Anyways car goes back to hondata for a few days Wednesday. I'll try to do a true dyno next week.
07-23-2007, 03:43 PM
#152
Ussi you had the belt problem even before the HBP right, so wtf??? It's an alignment thing? I haven't had any problem with the belt before or after the HBP, hmm, knocking on wood.
Comptech should be sending along a new blower and the new hardware!
Definitely continue updating us on the Hondata development, to be honest sometimes I feel like I can't wait any longer :-(
Good luck on the dyno, make sure that it can take the power your car delivers hahaha.
Comptech should be sending along a new blower and the new hardware!
Definitely continue updating us on the Hondata development, to be honest sometimes I feel like I can't wait any longer :-(
Good luck on the dyno, make sure that it can take the power your car delivers hahaha.
08-11-2007, 12:45 AM
#153
313.4WHP& 284.6TQ
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I use this pretty good muffler shop that use m.b.p.
2.25in for each, to a 2.5" Y & 2.5" flex. But he said, I will just cut it right after the flange and weld it on so you keep the stock flanges. Keep it the same route the stock piping takes. Price $150
Any advice? I know the esp j pipe is 400 or more..
thanks...
2.25in for each, to a 2.5" Y & 2.5" flex. But he said, I will just cut it right after the flange and weld it on so you keep the stock flanges. Keep it the same route the stock piping takes. Price $150
Any advice? I know the esp j pipe is 400 or more..
thanks...
08-19-2007, 08:59 AM
#157
Man of God.....
Yes, it does! I thought it was called the "J" also. Then I asked my part guy at the dealership. He said "A" pipe. So ya kinda have to believe the man who makes his living at this stuff. Also it is in the shop manual.....
Just thought you would want to know.....
Just thought you would want to know.....
08-19-2007, 10:27 AM
#158
- Doc
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Originally Posted by ussi
The pipe looks like the letter "J"
you able to get another dyno
and tune session? I just
found this thread and read
through it and you were doing
330/265. Did you fix the belt
situation?
08-19-2007, 02:32 PM
#160
Originally Posted by papiowhisperer
Did I miss something? Were
you able to get another dyno
and tune session? I just
found this thread and read
through it and you were doing
330/265. Did you fix the belt
situation?
you able to get another dyno
and tune session? I just
found this thread and read
through it and you were doing
330/265. Did you fix the belt
situation?
so far the belt is holding up..i've been beating up alot on my car lately and its been holding up