KenUA6

Hey guy,

Was doing some research for my work and I found out this.

http://www.csfimports.com/csf_catalog/#

Go Racing radiator
Make: Honda
Model: Accord V6
Year:2003-2004

I think the radiator will fit our car.

and here is the stock radiator

3G TL

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
P/N:19010-RDA-A51

2003-2004 Accord V6

http://www.hondapartscheap.com/south...t=0&quantity=0
P/N:19010-RCA-A52

This P/N only have one letter different so I assume this racing radiator will for our car.

KenUA6

BTW

here is some info. for CSF

2941 North Locust Avenue,
Rialto, California
U.S.A. 92377

Phone: (909) 355-1991
Fax: (909) 355-2149

They are a radiator manufacturer from India for 29yrs

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

That one number difference in the PN can make a world of difference in design though. Just cause the PNs are that similar doesn't mean they're physically "very similar"...

Granted they may be near identical, it's just not a safe assumption.

If you had a generous dealer, it would be cool to order one of each, and compare the two. If you find them nearly identical, then you could safely assume you could use the race radiator.

Does the TL have a cooling deficiency? Even with the SC? Never understood why you'd do this mod without a bonafide need, and there is abosolutlely more harm than good that come come from running the engine at less than NOT - Normal Operating Temperature.

KenUA6

forgot to put "FYI S/Ced" TL


Base on the picture on both radiator look very similar, unless they use the incorrect picture.

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

Also,
Did you note #4 on the CSF link? They seem to have a radiator already in production CSF 3175...

Guinnea pig for us.

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

Yep, those picture are figurative only... As parts are superceded, seldom does the picture get updated to reflect.

KenUA6

Just checked and the P/N is same as the accord V6


but it say O.E.M. style Plastic Tanks and Aluminum core not all aluminum

CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

accord won't fit, spouts and mounting points are different, i'm pretty sure of this. who wants plastic end tanks?





https://acurazine.com/forums/sponsored-sales-group-buys-10/xlr8-custom-aluminum-radiators-368175/

HQTL6SPD

Just go to the Honda dealer with that part #, i've gotten many small parts for my TL from honda dealer since its very close to me. They told me that parts that have *****-SEP-*** are strictly acura parts. So far anything other than SEP labeled parts i've been able to get from honda.

KenUA6

Actuelly I just checked once again .

2004-2005 acura TL P/N

P/N:19010-RCA-A51

2006+ acura TL P/N

P/N:19010-RCA-A52 so the 06 radiator are exact same as the 03+ accord

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

If you want a radiator that is all aluminum I can have one made up for you guys like I did for the 2nd gen CL/TL's. They would be about the same price. $475 shipped.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=368175

DUECE_DXJ

I'm going monday to a local CSF dealer to order one for my 2gen but I don't see one for the 3gen.

lookinco

What's the advantage of having a aluminum radiator?

Eoanou

Lightweight and better cooling.

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

Does the engine NEED better cooling? Running the engine at cooler than specified temps will result in poor gas milage, poor performance, and poor engine longevity.

These are designed for race applications only for a reason... Race cars run at WOT almost full time. Most folks don't drive like that.

csmeance

Only the people who are boosted do because the charger generates alot of heat. Thats why i think people use the snow performance methanol kit to keep the motor cool, but i may be wrong.

poisx7

iTrader: (1)

True , emmmmmmmmm u so Smart.

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

Hmm...
I'm not aware of anyone with a SC having an engine that runs hotter. Had the SC induce any significant stress on the cooling system, Comptech should have created, or at least reccomended, a way to control those escalating temps.
Given nothing was included with the kit, one could assume there's not an issue.

The boost cooler cools the air charge (pressurized air) coming into the engine, it has nothing to do with cooling the engine. Cooler air is more dense. More dense air get more fuel, thus "bigger boom" per stroke = more power. unfortunately those boost coolers also seem to deteriorate the cats...

A boosted TL that RACES only may need this. I'd be curious to see what the thunderhill TL has.

I'm HIGHLY skeptical the benefit of this mod in a non-race application.

You guys are awful enthusiastic about spending money on mods without any proof of benefit... coming with the COMPROMISE of warranty, and possibly even LOSS of performance.

Eoanou

Yeah, you're right, worthless for our generation of TLs as the OEM radiator does just fine.

CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

If you call this pointless or worthless, you are not looking at the big picture.

First of all, how would this DECREASE performance?

Second of all, Yes, the 3G TL is still young, but 2G CL/TL cars have exceeded 100,000 miles, and radiators start to go. The plastic end tanks are just clamped, and eventually the seal is lost, sure you can spend 150-200 on another crappy plastic one, but aftermarket radiators tend to not be as good of quality as OEM.

With that said, my new aluminum radiator will:
1) Outlast the life of my car.
2) Stand up to all conditions, I drive my car hard so the last thing I want to worry about is heat.
3) Larger cores and end tanks allow more coolant in the system thus making it harder for the car to generate heat, and also cool faster with more surface area.

$425 may sound like a lot at first, but when you look at what you are getting, it's well worth it. This mod is not for someone who is planning to turn their TL over in a couple years or the average joe. This mod is for people who love their cars, mod their cars, and race their cars.

Actually $425 is low priced for this quality, obviously you guys do not really follow real race scene. Mugen aluminum radiators go for $800 upward to $2,000. And most generic (meaning not custom fit to the car) aluminums will go for $400+

csmeance

I don't have a SC so i didn't now, but anyway, I though of another idea of how this would be benifcal. the thermoblock spacers keep the motor cool to reduce radiating heat to warm up the air, right? So if the motor was to run cooler, there would be less radiating heat meaning the need for the snow performance kit would be reduce the life extending the life of the cats.

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

CleanCL...

See my note above about radiator effeciency. If that new high dollar radiator does too good of a job, it can do very bad things to the engine. If it drops the Normal Operating Temperature of the engine, lots of bad things can occur... to include decreased performance and effeciency. There is such a thing as "over cooling", and that's why those radiators are specified as "race applications only", becuase they cool that well.

and for your other statements...I dunno. $150 to replace a "crappy OEM radiator" at 100K miles is 300 less than a custom aluminum one. I've ownded 7 Honda and not 1 ever expereinced a cooling leak or problem. If $425 is worth peace of mind, then say that, but I'm not sure of any other value without someone testing it out.



csmeance, you have some homework to do... I'm having trouble understanding what you're saying here.
The thermoblock spacers are snake oil... and I have them. They DO NOT keep the engine cool. They isolate the air intake plenum from the engine, which prevent engine heat from being conducted from the block to the plenum. The plenum still gets hot from radiated heat from the engine. Does it possible reduce the temp of the air passing through the plenum, maybe, a few degrees... but nothing that dyno error won't mask.

The snow performance kit sprays misted coolant into the air intake stream. This coolant cools the heated air as it moves throught eh plenum, as the coolant/air mixture has a higher propensity to dissipate heat. This is known as "chemical cooling" vs "radiative cooling" as in the radiator based system that started this discussion.
This chemical cooling, and the presense of this coolant as it passes through the engine is what is suspected of erodig the cats... Not excess heat. Excess heat will kill cats too, but I know of noone here that has eroded cats that WASN'T using a chemical "boost cooler".

CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

The only possible way it would overcool is upon startup in cold climates. Once you start driving normally, it will get up to normal operating temperature. The car will always eventually get up to the same temps, it may just take a little longer.

Pizza4Everyone

i used to live around that area. maybe i'll check it out

KenUA6

Well I don't know have you even WOT your TL during a hot summer day or noon time.

And I start this thread is because I found something for our TL so that why I post it at performance thread if you talking about OE radiator(Price) than I think you shouldn't post anything in this thread cause "usually" OE Parts is cheaper than aftermarket (performance) parts.


The CSF All aluminum radiator doesn't mean that after you install it and it will freeze your engine or something,it just cool off the car a bit(maybe 25%cooler than OE) so it make your car run better.

So if you don't like it this thread you can alway stay away,so not coming in and act like you know a lot of stuff.

**Maybe you are having trouble understanding what I'm saying,so please reading slowing.

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

Ken, no need to get confrontational pal. If I don't see the value I won't buy it... The point of my posts are educational for the community. Just because a part is available doesn't mean you SHOULD bolt it on.

I run to WOT in short bursts every once in a while. Never seen the "temperature" light come on. How often do you go to WOT? and STAY THERE? If you drive on the streets, probably less than me.

It's clear by your mod list that you make mod your car... "just to say you did it". By all means, you should install this radiator...

I'm posting reasonable technical concerns over installing a more effecient radiator. 25% cooler is NOT necessarily a good thing. When your car starts up cold, it runs richer, the oil flows slower, and the timing is adjustsed until the car reaches running temps. Installing a radiator that keeps the car cooler could trick the car into thinking it "never warms up"... and that's my only concern.

... and I come in here acting like I know a lot of stuff... becasue I do young buck.

DUECE_DXJ

I went to a local radiator shop today that sells CSF radiators and he didn't have it in stock but he said he could have it 2 days so I went on and ordered it. I don't know how well this will fit with the s/c but it's only a bit bigger than oem and for $241.00 I said what the hell I'll take a chance. The shop I went to said if it doesn't fit he can get a custom Griffin Radiator made but the price will be more.I'll post up some pics when I pick it up.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

Kennedy, there are benefits to running an aluminum radiator. Look at the stock radiator. It has a 3/4" core with plastic 1.5" end tanks. The aftermarket radiators, at least the ones that are better made, have almost twice the capacity of the stock radiators. Granted if you are just doing bolt ons and not really running your car hard then the stock radiator will be sufficient. Add a supercharger or some sort of boost or do some track time (oval tracks, circuit, etc) and you will find your coolant temps rising quickly and keeping cylinder temps a lot higher than you want. At the same time you should consider too that the thermostat controls at what temperature the coolant circulates into the radiator. So a colder thermostat will lead to colder coolant too. Or even running a colder fan switch to get the fans kicking on early or all the time. There are benefits, maybe not for your setup, but for others. Also, the aluminum radiator is also a nice showpiece.

lookinco

Someone get it and try it out!!!!!

JD TL-S

iTrader: (1)

Besides better cooling,,, HOW much lighter is it??? That seams to be more important if most people don't need better cooling.

Less weight over the front wheels is very important.

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

I think this pretty much sums it up for the interest here...

KenUA6

Well usually I WOT all day long or I should say I WOT every chance I see a opening and I go touging every weekend.

When the time I go touge(after while) and drive home after(5pm rush hour) the car's response is getting slower and slower and I assume that the Oil is heating it up (around 110C) and we don't have a the oil temp gauge so I don't think the car will tell you the Engine Oil and Tranny Oil is over heated.


but well everyone do whatever they want you know, people like putting 22" on a TL or take everything parts out the car make the car lighter(Inaccurate ) everyone just like to do what they want so I just come to this board and post some info. that people might think of that but can't find/search it.

PS: I'm Sure this upgrade will make the car better(performance,even N/A) and WON'T slower the car etc.

ussi

iTrader: (1)

Every time I see threads like this I think why would someone not want more info and expertise from someone know might know more than you.

Ken, I'm sure kennedy didn'thave anything but good intentions in his postings.

In either case, if i was considering this, I'd always want to know more than less (cuz i didn't know jack shit about more efficient radiators...actually i knew a little about what kennedy was saying..but just a little)

DUECE_DXJ

I just picked it up today and it looks pretty good. I bought #3011 the street version for the CL b/c they didn't have one listed for the TL...I don't know why. It's not a whole lot bigger than stock so it shouldn't be a problem fitting with the charger.Good find KenUA6 you save me some money I was about to get someone to make me a custom one for $400.00 plus.

KenUA6

No problem man,but I was wondering dose the CL radiator fit our car??I know we use the same radiator as the 03+ accord V6 but don't know about the CL/CLS so the shop from the shop say it fit??

How much is it?
Nice radiator btw

KenUA6

Oh and if you can ,can you please measure the stock one and the CSF one and see how many mm/inch bigger?


Thanks so much

DUECE_DXJ

I have a 2gen ken but lets take a look at the different sizes

04-06 TL stock

Core Size 16-3/4 x 28-1/4 x 15/16
Tank Size Inlet 28-5/8 x 1-9/16
Outlet 28-5/8 x 1-9/16
Hose Fittings Top 1-1/4 Left
Bottom 1-1/4 Left


03-06 Accord All Aluminum STREET RACING model


Core Size 14-3/4 x 28-3/16 x 1-1/4
Tank Size Inlet 28-5/8 x 1-7/8
Outlet 28-5/8 x 1-7/8
Hose Fittings Top 1-1/4 Left
Bottom 1-1/4 Left
No of Rows 1
Oil Cooler NO


01-03 CL All Aluminum STREET RACING model


Core Size 16-3/4 x 28-1/4 x 15/16
Tank Size Inlet 28-3/4 x 1-7/8
Outlet 28-3/4 x 1-7/8
Hose Fittings Top 1-1/4 Centre
Bottom 1-1/4 Left
No of Rows 1
Oil Cooler NO

DUECE_DXJ

$241.00 plus shipping/tax

KenUA6

My bad

Than why you come to the 3G board for??? :angryfire
j/k j/k j/k haha

DUECE_DXJ

I didn't know about this company until I read your post and found one for 2gen.just wanted you to see the quality just in case you found a make that could fit your car.back to 2gen see ya