Anyone else having their blower throw codes? Mine did today pulling away from a light at part throttle but I loaned my scan tool out and should get it back later today. Hopefully it's just a burp.

 

no.. how long have you had it?

 

make sure the acm is hooked up correctly. it's supposed to freeze the map voltage at 3 volts.. that may be the problem

 

About a month. It's running fine, just threw a code for the first time today. I'm waiting for my buddy to show up with my scan tool and I'll know more. It could be non-blower issue but I won't know until I know what triggered it. The ACM is hooked up correctly and I just rechecked the solder joints to make sure they're still good and they are. I just wondered if anyone else has seen codes 'cause if they haven't then I've obviously got a problem.

 

good luck.. probably something simple

 

Well it was simple. "Air intake leak". I remember one of my TB gaskets being a little boogered up from the box but I used it anyway. It could be this, or the ECU freaking over the blower. It was air intake leak and not a constant MAP sensor error however I'm assuming that the MAP sensor would be responsible for the reading triggering an "air intake leak" error trouble code. If that is the case, it would be occuring before the TB gasket. Considering the motor itself was never 'opened', it would have to be the TB or the MAP. I'll see if it does it again. If it does, I'll check the MAP voltage and see if it is correct and if not resolder the ECU connections.

 

Welp, the car keeps tripping codes, the same code, "Air Intake Leak". I've captured data and it seems to occur at idle when stopped. This morning I just noticed it pulling away but I don't think it actually tripped while I was pulling away. MAP readings are typically between 7" and 10" Hg. I don't know what it is stock but 7-10" at idle would see a normal vacuum to me. At boost the MAP pegs at 29" which is obviously 0 vacuum. It won't report actual boost. Also the limited capture I saw has the system in closed loop, intake charge temp at 135-140F, coolant temp 205-210F. It will pick up the problem as a pending code, then finally flip on the check engine light. I'm going to drive the car to work again tomorrow with the scan tool in a more detailed capture mode which will give injector load, some other fuel readings etc so I can report more readings when the light is triggered. Hopefully there is an ASE mech on here would can tell me what I'm looking at. I'm going to resolder the connections this weekend but things seems to be working normally.

Other than this check engine light thing the only other thing is the surge issue which to me seems more than moderate at 1PSI or thereabouts. Perhaps this surging is related to this intake leak.

 

I replaced all of my solder joints with trick solderless connections and still getting trouble codes.

This trouble code P2279 Air Intake Leak seems to be happening only when the car is idle

Fuel System 1
Closed Loop
Fuel System 2
Closed Loop
Load Value
26.2%
Coolant Temp
204F
Short Term Fuel Trim 1
-7.1%
Long Term Fuel Trim 1
-1.6%
Short Term Fuel Trim 2
-7.9%
Long Term Fuel Trim 2
-1.6%
MAP Sensor
7" Hg
Engine RPM
741
Vehicle Speed
0 MPH
Ignition Timing Adv
11.0deg
Intake Air Temp
150F
Throttle Position
12%

 

did you call comptech tech or Acura service?

 

I emailed Comptech but after I just said screw it and pulled everything apart. The bottom side of the gasket on the intake manifold wasn't sealing. There was a tiny bit of gasket material from the previous gasket on there that I missed. I have since scraped it ALL off and put it back together. Certainly that is the cause of the TC and most likely that unmetered air made the surging problem significantly worse. I'll know for sure when I drive home from work tonight.

Between this and the clock I should know that when all else fails, pull my head out of my ass.

 

hahahah good luck

 

To fix check engine light and surge

Step 1

Pull head out of ass

Step 2

Reattempt if necessary

Well rather than wait I took it around the block for a test drive and in addition to no check engine lights, it's making more power and the surge, while still there, has been significantly reduced. The ECU is a bit confused; relearning how to run without the unmetered air (so it's stalling on occasion) but it's getting better. Who knows how much boost I was loosing through that massive leak but now it's blowing my 255's off through the top of 2nd gear with the automatic.

 

awesome.. it would be great if you can take a picture pointing out where the problem was.. about the losing boost.. boost gauge baby

 

skeedatl, from the info from your scanner is that freeze frame data? If so the short term fuel trim is removing 7.9% fuel from its base map for correction. If it were a vacuum leak it would be adding fuel to it (+ numbers). After the repairs did it set readiness monitors for the oxygen sensors? If it did and had no pending codes your good to go. Bklynpanman, going to englishtown tomoorow night to see what numbers i run bone stock save for my short throw. I usualy run my 91 Camaro that runs 10.0x at 135 but im in the middle of putting nitrous on it, hoping to go low 9s on a 200 shot. Heres a link to the vid of a 10.07 pass that my dad ran with it, the next pass went 10.04 for the last pass of the season. http://home.comcast.net/~baddest434/1007runsmall.wmv Im hoping for 14.0s tomorrow night, then its time to order the blower and cat back.

 

I'd get a boost gauge if I could find a decent mount for it.

As for the problem



The gap was between the intake and Comptech's insert (between the bend and the intake). On the bottom side I had some left over gasket material on the face of the intake that I missed when I was scraping it clean. It created two bumps between which the gasket wouldn't seal. The gap was about 1" x .030" between those bumps through which air could easily pass. However, being on the bottom, it wasn't visible. I could hear it whistle on occasion so I felt underneath with my fingers while it was running and could feel the vacuum. So I just pulled it apart and did a better job cleaning the surface and reassembled it and voila, perfect.

 

How do you like the car with the blower on it? Is it worth $3800? Id love to take a ride in one before i buy one but if i cant o well. Ive decided on getting a new upper cover for my steering column and mounting a cyberdyne blue ice boost gauge in a single mount pod. The cyberdyne gauge has a brushed ring, black face and blue led numbers. http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0339&langId=-1 check at the bottom in vacuum gauges to see the boost gauge. I am goinf to mold the gauge cup to the cover as the cover is only $8.