BRAKES! Beating a dead horse!
#1
10th Gear
Thread Starter
BRAKES! Beating a dead horse!
For the past three days I think I have read every thread possible about recommendations on which rotors and brake pads people like the most. This may sound crazy but I have just turned over 80,000 on the odometer on a 2006 TL and haven't had the brakes or rotors changed since new. I decided it's time I need to start looking at changing them but I can't help but think why wouldn't I just use OEM since they have lasted so long. I keep reading about all these recommendations on aftermarket being so good but I have yet to read one that has any experience of their aftermarket parts lasting over 80,000 miles. So now I need someone to convince me how their aftermarket choice is so much better than OEM. I may be one of the few to make it this far but my wife drives like a bat out hell so it not like we have taken it easy on the equipment. The OEM equipment has been great for me and I'm steering that way on my next purchase but I'm still on the fence - a little.
![Just BEAT IT, beat it, BEAT IT, beat it!](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/beatingadeadhorse.gif)
#2
Instructor
iTrader: (1)
BrakeMotive in the group buy section it used to be $145 shipped, I think it is $160 now you can read through the 10+ pages of people saying how good they are.
https://acurazine.com/forums/sponsored-sales-group-buys-10/brakemotive-drilled-slotted-brake-kits-lowest-prices-ever-809114/
x2
https://acurazine.com/forums/sponsored-sales-group-buys-10/brakemotive-drilled-slotted-brake-kits-lowest-prices-ever-809114/
![Just BEAT IT, beat it, BEAT IT, beat it!](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/beatingadeadhorse.gif)
#4
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (1)
I've never piped up in any of these brake threads because I usually just like to let people spend their money, but I feel compelled to speak up for some reason here.
For most TL drivers, the performance you get from aftermarket brake kits are pointless and you should just stick with OEM. If you track your car, then it's a different story. And I mean autocross, not dragstrip - you'll never get a TL going fast enough in a 1/4 mile at the dragstrip to boil brake fluid and have your brakes give out on you so don't worry about it.
The factory brakes are perfectly fine for daily driving. Unless you're doing hot laps in your TL, you're gonna be fine. I've talked to Acura about the longevity and they were fine with my stock brakes even at 75k (on auto transmission, so non-brembo), so I don't think that at 80k you're out of the ordinary unless you're driving a 6MT. On my old '05 base auto I didn't have to change them until 85k.
I would wager the majority of people spending the extra money on performance brakes are going overboard for daily driving needs. Most people justify it with the whole "more stopping power" argument, which is fine I guess but not necessary.
I run SS brake lines, slotted rotors, and my everyday brake fluid is Motul and my track brake fluid is Castrol SRF - this is only because I track my car. If all I ever did was some spirited street driving and commuting in my sub-300 hp car, I would never have performance-anything for brakes on it. Utterly pointless.
If we're talking dollar for dollar, though, maybe a different story lol. The $450 kit that XLR8 sells is downright decent as a replacement for stock and about the same price for all 4 wheels.
For most TL drivers, the performance you get from aftermarket brake kits are pointless and you should just stick with OEM. If you track your car, then it's a different story. And I mean autocross, not dragstrip - you'll never get a TL going fast enough in a 1/4 mile at the dragstrip to boil brake fluid and have your brakes give out on you so don't worry about it.
The factory brakes are perfectly fine for daily driving. Unless you're doing hot laps in your TL, you're gonna be fine. I've talked to Acura about the longevity and they were fine with my stock brakes even at 75k (on auto transmission, so non-brembo), so I don't think that at 80k you're out of the ordinary unless you're driving a 6MT. On my old '05 base auto I didn't have to change them until 85k.
I would wager the majority of people spending the extra money on performance brakes are going overboard for daily driving needs. Most people justify it with the whole "more stopping power" argument, which is fine I guess but not necessary.
I run SS brake lines, slotted rotors, and my everyday brake fluid is Motul and my track brake fluid is Castrol SRF - this is only because I track my car. If all I ever did was some spirited street driving and commuting in my sub-300 hp car, I would never have performance-anything for brakes on it. Utterly pointless.
If we're talking dollar for dollar, though, maybe a different story lol. The $450 kit that XLR8 sells is downright decent as a replacement for stock and about the same price for all 4 wheels.
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#6
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He's got Brembos? I assumed at 80k, he must have a 2006 AT.
Regardless, I agree on the cost, but if you DIY, even with OE parts it becomes MUCH more affordable.
I don't think it's 'crazy' either .... if it's an AT. The 2G TL brakes are nearly identical to 3G 5AT brakes. Our 2G OEM pads/rotors lasted more than 6 years and about 70k miles.
#8
10th Gear
Thread Starter
2006 TL AT (non-Brembo) is what I am referring to in this thread. Daily commuter. Have no reason to get stupid and try to race some kid at the stoplight who is trying to justify his lack of ego, so the brakes are never abused.
#9
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
Do you have an AT or MT TL? Many AT Base TL owners have issues with the front rotors because they are prone to distortion. I recommend Powerslot slotted rotors because for that application they offer a curved vane and a Power Alloy compound, which is much more resistant to distortion.
#10
10th Gear
Thread Starter
2006 TL AT with over 80,000 and have no pulsing during braking so the rotors are not warped. Just trying to get input on why so many people go to aftermarket when the OEM's have lasted this long and still brake really well. Can aftermarket justify this kind of longevity and reliablity? I have yet to hear anyone speak of their aftermarket lasting up to 80,000 and still going strong. Not trying to start a fight just looking for a reason to everyone's thought process for aftermarket when OEM seems to be a quality product itself.
#12
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2006 TL AT with over 80,000 and have no pulsing during braking so the rotors are not warped. Just trying to get input on why so many people go to aftermarket when the OEM's have lasted this long and still brake really well. Can aftermarket justify this kind of longevity and reliablity? I have yet to hear anyone speak of their aftermarket lasting up to 80,000 and still going strong. Not trying to start a fight just looking for a reason to everyone's thought process for aftermarket when OEM seems to be a quality product itself.
I think your reasoning/premise is sound.
It's all about cost in this case. You can get after market parts for less. BUT if you have to change them at, say, 40,000 miles, where's the savings (compared to 80K miles on OE)?
In this situation I'd be very likely to go with OE again. UNLESS you're getting the parts and work done at Acura which makes the total cost excessive, imho.
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shakerharley (10-01-2012)
#13
10th Gear
Thread Starter
Just for the front brake parts out the door price for rotors, pads, and hardware (screws, bolts and shims) including shipping is going to be $305.00. Not sure how comparable this is to aftermarket.
#14
Three Wheelin'
2006 TL AT with over 80,000 and have no pulsing during braking so the rotors are not warped. Just trying to get input on why so many people go to aftermarket when the OEM's have lasted this long and still brake really well. Can aftermarket justify this kind of longevity and reliablity? I have yet to hear anyone speak of their aftermarket lasting up to 80,000 and still going strong. Not trying to start a fight just looking for a reason to everyone's thought process for aftermarket when OEM seems to be a quality product itself.
#15
Chapter Leader (San Antonio)
iTrader: (3)
Do you have an AT or MT TL? Many AT Base TL owners have issues with the front rotors because they are prone to distortion. I recommend Powerslot slotted rotors because for that application they offer a curved vane and a Power Alloy compound, which is much more resistant to distortion.
#16
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You can get, for example, plain (non-slotted, non-drilled) StopTech premium rotors and pads for ~$165 plus shipping (fronts only). I'm sure other reasonable combos are available for similar savings.
Again, on our 2G with nearly identical brakes, we went with after market (Racing Brake?) about 4 years ago and have about 46k miles so far and very, very light wear on the pads; just a few mm worn.
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shakerharley (10-01-2012)
#17
Suzuka Master
2006 here also surpassed 80k on oem! I replaced with oem! No new rotors! Great deals from vendors here! No need to go aftermarket.
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shakerharley (10-01-2012)
#18
10th Gear
Thread Starter
Bearcat94 - That's the kind of advice I am looking for from this thread. Sorry to say but I haven't worked on cars a whole lot since my old school 1970 Mustang Mach I and 1979 Trans AM. I bought a 1991 Honda Civic SI with 2 miles on it from the dealer and have had it garaged for 15 years and still looks brand new but I have not had to do much to it so this will be my first stab at brake repair on a newer style car. The only reason I'm not just jumping and buying OEM is because I am open to alternatives and I figure this is the best place to get that kind of information. If I were to purchase OEM or aftermarket who is the best to purchase from when it comes to quality and price?
#19
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The StopTech items I quoted were from the Excelerate Performance website - Josh is a vendor here. I've got StopTech slotted on the '07 fronts and they seem fine; many people here have run that brand.
Other options? Not sure of the best ones to recommend. I think user/vendor AcuraOEMPartsGuy and AckTL05 do good deals on OEM parts. Ebay too.
Changing rotors and pads on this car is really very easy:
D-085: Front and rear Brake disc (rotor), knuckle, hub, and front wheel bearing replacement
https://acurazine.com/forums/religion-politics-18/world-opinion-132940/
D-041: Brakes-front/rear caliper overhaul, front/rear pad replacement, brake bleeding, brake disc specifications, parking brake adjustment
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/brakes-caliper-o-h-pad-repl-hoses-bleed-disc-specs-park-brake-adj-3g-garage-d-041-a-578017/
DIY: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/replacing-brakes-pictures-3g-garage-d-041-a-770166/
EXCEPT for the PITA retaining screws:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/rotor-retaining-screws-help-640367/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/rotor-stuck%3B-rotor-hub-cracked-help-712814/
Other options? Not sure of the best ones to recommend. I think user/vendor AcuraOEMPartsGuy and AckTL05 do good deals on OEM parts. Ebay too.
Changing rotors and pads on this car is really very easy:
D-085: Front and rear Brake disc (rotor), knuckle, hub, and front wheel bearing replacement
https://acurazine.com/forums/religion-politics-18/world-opinion-132940/
D-041: Brakes-front/rear caliper overhaul, front/rear pad replacement, brake bleeding, brake disc specifications, parking brake adjustment
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/brakes-caliper-o-h-pad-repl-hoses-bleed-disc-specs-park-brake-adj-3g-garage-d-041-a-578017/
DIY: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/replacing-brakes-pictures-3g-garage-d-041-a-770166/
EXCEPT for the PITA retaining screws:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/rotor-retaining-screws-help-640367/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/rotor-stuck%3B-rotor-hub-cracked-help-712814/
#20
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
http://store.excelerateperformance.c...s/g-63863.aspx
http://store.excelerateperformance.c...065&make=ACURA
#22
Burning Brakes
Depends on your budget i did the 2 piece Racing Brake front rotors and 1 piece rear with the racing brake pads and SS lines from HeelToe. These are far superior to the Rotora ones i had a few years ago and stock, but they are also $1200. Still very happy with them and they are much lighter than stock
#23
10th Gear
Thread Starter
I am really satisfied with the OEM performance and especially with them giving me a good 80,000 run. With that being said what aftermarket rotors and brake setup will give me as good if not better performance? Again, I am only a daily commuter and anything comparable to OEM is fine with me but if I can save some Benjamin's I am all for it. Any recommendations will be greatly appreciated and input from vendors would be a bonus. Thanks for all the help!
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