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Scheduled the next tune with English. June 10-15 to tune the car to 430whp pump gas / 480whp.
Put her on jacks for easy access underneath. Got stuck at the axlenut.. Vatozone loans out tools, so I got the 36mm socket and redneck slaphammer to remove the axles.
I’m having a difficult time removing the lower arm to free the axle. I’ve removed the pin and nut. On YouTube it looks like it slides right out. Should I buy a tool with more leverage? Help me Fellas!
Scheduled the next tune with English. June 10-15 to tune the car to 430whp pump gas / 480whp.
Put her on jacks for easy access underneath. Got stuck at the axlenut.. Vatozone loans out tools, so I got the 36mm socket and redneck slaphammer to remove the axles.
Nice! What's the blower number again? C38-81 or 92? And are you also going e85?
I’m having a difficult time removing the lower arm to free the axle. I’ve removed the pin and nut. On YouTube it looks like it slides right out. Should I buy a tool with more leverage? Help me Fellas!
Are you looking to separate the balljoint?
If so, try the 'ratchet handle method' on the video below. I've used it and it does work with ease.
Use one of these ball joint separator, put some tension on it by tightening the screw, then tap around the control arm with a metal hammer. Be sure to use nut on the ball joint stud to prevent damage to the threads. Make sure you don't put the sleeve out that is in the LCA.
For the axle nut, use an electric 1/2" impact gun, they can be had for ~$100.
Ill try the wrench technique today, if not, Vatozone loans ball joint separaters.
Im trying to not spend money on axle, suspension removal tools because I will use them so seldomly.
Another 'no-cost' way to get the axle nut off would be to put the shock absorber fork bolt through the shock absorber fork and lower arm, put on the wheel, lower the car and use an appropriate size breaker bar, with the socket from vatozone, and increase leverage on said breaker bar with big fn metal pipe (your pops is into plumbing, right ) and turn axle nut counter-clockwise with the full weight of car on the wheel and wifey on the brakes. Something should give.
That's awesome. Right around the corner. Given manual, e85 and the 92, I'm sure you'll be closer to 500whp. Each psi = roughly 19whp with the c38-92 on e85. A manual does roughly 60whp more than an auto. I did 484whp at 11.7psi. So 484+60 = 544 - 53 = 491 lol. Regardless of the whp, it's going to be a sleeper tl that can take out a lot of cars and a joy while doing so. Get aftermarket springs in the future and run full boost (550whp) 😉
Makes me wanna spend lots and lots of dolla bills yo. Would love to quad charge my KBP!
Do it!
I find it funny that people with car knowhow spend so much money financing their “race cars”, when they could pick their favorite car and build it for a fraction of the cost.
That's awesome. Right around the corner. Given manual, e85 and the 92, I'm sure you'll be closer to 500whp. Each psi = roughly 19whp with the c38-92 on e85. A manual does roughly 60whp more than an auto. I did 484whp at 11.7psi. So 484+60 = 544 - 53 = 491 lol. Regardless of the whp, it's going to be a sleeper tl that can take out a lot of cars and a joy while doing so. Get aftermarket springs in the future and run full boost (550whp) 😉
I plan to build the entire motor next year and put the C38R for 800-900whp. ‘Wink’
Vatozone loans out tools, so I got the 36mm socket and redneck slaphammer to remove the axles.
Saving4aTL, you should not need that 'redneck slaphammer' to remove the axle(s).
Check out the attachment below from the Helms service manual (step#10). This procedure should be relatively the same for your 3G TL-S as it is for my 2G CL-S. You are going to want to 'pry out' the inboard joint(s), either at the left diff or right intermediate shaft, as depicted on the attachment, vs. PULLING them.
I plan to build the entire motor next year and put the C38R for 800-900whp. ‘Wink’
Are you running full boost only on springs?
My entire motor is already built. Just need the C38R and now a manual TL as the auto will not hold the 700+whp nor do I want it to as I don't like the auto's gear ratios. Grabbed a set of straight cut 3rd and 4th gears for the manual box as they tend to shred under high hp
Insane shafts are next on my list. Are you buying the 1000hp shafts?
Are you the guy that Scotty Kilmer featured in one of his episodes?
no, lol. That's my carpet. That will be my next purchase as well. I'm leaning towards the 500hp shafts. My stock axels from autozone held 435-484whp just fine. Going to try my luck with the 500. if they ever break, I'll take the L and grab the 1000. If they don't break, then I'll save a few hundred. And yes I am the guy from Scotty's video
no, lol. That's my carpet. That will be my next purchase as well. I'm leaning towards the 500hp shafts. My stock axels from autozone held 435-484whp just fine. Going to try my luck with the 500. if they ever break, I'll take the L and grab the 1000. If they don't break, then I'll save a few hundred. And yes I am the guy from Scotty's video
I was thinking 500whp aswell. I bet they will hold, have less rotational mass, And be more of a shock absorber to the tranny then the more rigid 1000hp shafts. Twice as cheap too!
When I saw your video on Scottie’s channel I flipped!!!
Ill try the wrench technique today, if not, Vatozone loans ball joint separaters.
Im trying to not spend money on axle, suspension removal tools because I will use them so seldomly.
Lol when your blowing axles from all the HP and TQ those tools will come in handy. You'll get good at taking this thing apart.
I had to replace my axle on my Integra at the track, the separator and 32mm axle nut definitely came in handy. It was a 500HP Insane Axle that ate the outboard joint at Road America coming into T1 at triple digit speeds under braking. Almost pulled me into the grass. I replaced it with an Auto parts store axle and it lasted the rest of the weekend. Word around the paddock is to avoid Insane Shafts for track use.
I borrowed a ball joint separator from Vatozone today. It didn’t work at all. Slipped off quite violently on my last go at it. EricTheCarGuy has videos for an Acura TL engine replacement. In it he shows that the axles can be removed by removing the x2 medial bolts of the control arm. I did just that and it took 2 minutes for each side. H’like a glove! Im a bit puzzled as to how to safely remove the axles. I turned them and pulled at the base and it won’t move. I used a flathead screwdriver and a crowbar on the base as instructed, and no go.
Do they need to be removed?? If I do the Brutha technique, technically the axles will move with the tranny as I slidenit out of the way.
I was thinking 500whp aswell. I bet they will hold, have less rotational mass, And be more of a shock absorber to the tranny then the more rigid 1000hp shafts. Twice as cheap too!
When I saw your video on Scottie’s channel I flipped!!!
Stick around man! Where’s your build thread?
Yeah those are all positive reasons. Let's see how they do. & lol thanks man. I sent him the email and was surprised he was interested in seeing what it was about. I don't have a build thread. I just have an Instagram with all that I'm doing. Its @built_tls . Just posting all I'm adding to the engine and car when I get it.
Yeah those are all positive reasons. Let's see how they do. & lol thanks man. I sent him the email and was surprised he was interested in seeing what it was about. I don't have a build thread. I just have an Instagram with all that I'm doing. Its @built_tls . Just posting all I'm adding to the engine and car when I get it.
You were on my IG. But I deleted all the social media. I tried it for a few months but it’s not my cup of tea. I like this platform. More intimate.
When do you plan to get the Type-S? Are you installing the built engine and swapping the GBP 3.5 kit onto it?? :o
You were on my IG. But I deleted all the social media. I tried it for a few months but it’s not my cup of tea. I like this platform. More intimate.
When do you plan to get the Type-S? Are you installing the built engine and swapping the GBP 3.5 kit onto it?? :o
Oh alright. I tried looking for your page and couldn't find it. Makes sense now. Plan on getting the car May of next year so the countdown starts now. I'm super excited! Built engine and moving over the kit almost immediately after I get the car. I don't know how to drive manual so I'll learn on the stock motor first. Then after a month or so I'll drop the built motor in, break it in, install the supercharger and make full boost on the c38r which should be 19-22 psi based on my calculations. So anywhere from 670-730whp for my set up. Our builds will be nearly identical. From the fuel set up to maybe the color of the car lol. Btw love the detailed pictures! Will be looking over at them as I start putting everything together next year
Oh alright. I tried looking for your page and couldn't find it. Makes sense now. Plan on getting the car May of next year so the countdown starts now. I'm super excited! Built engine and moving over the kit almost immediately after I get the car. I don't know how to drive manual so I'll learn on the stock motor first. Then after a month or so I'll drop the built motor in, break it in, install the supercharger and make full boost on the c38r which should be 19-22 psi based on my calculations. So anywhere from 670-730whp for my set up. Our builds will be nearly identical. From the fuel set up to maybe the color of the car lol. Btw love the detailed pictures! Will be looking over at them as I start putting everything together next year
That is exciting!! You and Andy are both ahead of me in your builds. I feel like the underdog trying to catch up.
I could be mistaken, but isn’t full boost 15psi on Rotrex units?
From what I’ve read it’s a set limitation due to the planetary gears that make it spin from 6,800rpm to 90,000-100,000.
I would recommend changing the clutch/flywheel to the one @gerzand recommended. The clutch I’m installing is good for 679TQ.
That is exciting!! You and Andy are both ahead of me in your builds. I feel like the underdog trying to catch up.
I could be mistaken, but isn’t full boost 15psi on Rotrex units?
From what I’ve read it’s a set limitation due to the planetary gears that make it spin from 6,800rpm to 90,000-100,000.
I would recommend changing the clutch/flywheel to the one @gerzand recommended. The clutch I’m installing is good for 679TQ.
The build went from one thing to another. Wanted 425whp, made only 330whp o the 3.2. Was dissapointed and it all snowballed from there lol. I'm basically starting at square one again. I just have a lot of the parts now.
Full boost in the c38-92 is odd. Gerzand did 15psi on his car. I did 11.7 on the dyno then after a month, the sc did 12.4 psi consistently. It did 13psi one day on a cool summer night according to the flash pro data log. Another of gerzand's customers maxed out the sc and it also reached no more than 12.4psi. And I was already spinning the rotrex by an extra 10,000 rpm at redline. Not sure how gerzand's did 15psi but shows that it's possible.
For the clutch I will be getting that same one gerzand has recommended. That'll be the purchase after the insane Shafts later in the year as the clutch and flywheel aren't cheap.
The build went from one thing to another. Wanted 425whp, made only 330whp o the 3.2. Was dissapointed and it all snowballed from there lol. I'm basically starting at square one again. I just have a lot of the parts now.
Full boost in the c38-92 is odd. Gerzand did 15psi on his car. I did 11.7 on the dyno then after a month, the sc did 12.4 psi consistently. It did 13psi one day on a cool summer night according to the flash pro data log. Another of gerzand's customers maxed out the sc and it also reached no more than 12.4psi. And I was already spinning the rotrex by an extra 10,000 rpm at redline. Not sure how gerzand's did 15psi but shows that it's possible.
For the clutch I will be getting that same one gerzand has recommended. That'll be the purchase after the insane Shafts later in the year as the clutch and flywheel aren't cheap.
I’m in the same boat. Comptech Supercharged my 2008 Base Auto, and sure it screamed, but I wasn’t impressed by the gains.
Getting the max out of the TL requires a manual. Even if it’s a 2004 manual. The Comptech SC would be better served in a 6MT. I’m considering getting a 2004-2006 manual and putting the Comptech into it.
Try manually moving the wastegate spring with your hand. Especially if you don’t drive it often. It should restore your preset PSI.
I’m in the same boat. Comptech Supercharged my 2008 Base Auto, and sure it screamed, but I wasn’t impressed by the gains.
Getting the max out of the TL requires a manual. Even if it’s a 2004 manual. The Comptech SC would be better served in a 6MT. I’m considering getting a 2004-2006 manual and putting the Comptech into it.
Try manually moving the wastegate spring with your hand. Especially if you don’t drive it often. It should restore your preset PSI.
6mt is the way to go. The gearing is key. If looking at another car, the automatic 370z is faster than the manual because of the gearing. Same with the most recent bwm m240i. Sadly the gearing in the auto isn't the best. I'll be keeping my auto stock and as a daily.
As far as the wastegate, I placed the lines at the top 2 ports to keep it shut as boost builds. I will be adding a 14 pound spring in the future along with a manual boost controller. Will be running 14psi on pump 93 and the 19-22 on e85. Every time my engine has blown has been on pump gas. So I don't really trust it in the tl. Will be running e85 mainly. Every 5th tank will be pump gas to keep as much of the system somewhat lubricated for as long as possible. Injectors will also undergo cleaning every 12-18 months.
6mt is the way to go. The gearing is key. If looking at another car, the automatic 370z is faster than the manual because of the gearing. Same with the most recent bwm m240i. Sadly the gearing in the auto isn't the best. I'll be keeping my auto stock and as a daily.
As far as the wastegate, I placed the lines at the top 2 ports to keep it shut as boost builds. I will be adding a 14 pound spring in the future along with a manual boost controller. Will be running 14psi on pump 93 and the 19-22 on e85. Every time my engine has blown has been on pump gas. So I don't really trust it in the tl. Will be running e85 mainly. Every 5th tank will be pump gas to keep as much of the system somewhat lubricated for as long as possible. Injectors will also undergo cleaning every 12-18 months.
Gearing is longer in the base, but fifth gear maxes at 241mph vs 202mph on the 6MT.
How many times have you blown the engine??
Glad your holding onto the Auto. I’m starting to see kids destroying these cars with nasty raspy eBay exhausts and “louder than you Mom last night” stickers.
Heres an an example I saw yesterday. This guy had an entourage of three other cars in tow.
Gearing is longer in the base, but fifth gear maxes at 241mph vs 202mph on the 6MT.
How many times have you blown the engine??
Glad your holding onto the Auto. I’m starting to see kids destroying these cars with nasty raspy eBay exhausts and “louder than you Mom last night” stickers.
Heres an an example I saw yesterday. This guy had an entourage of three other cars in tow.
Though I’m glad he loves his TL.
That's true yeah but it'll take a lot of power to reach those speeds and the aero on the TL isn't up to snuff to be stable at those speeds so I'll take the shorter gears to accelerate faster in the 0-140mph range.
Sadly blew it up twice. First time the I bent rods, and second time I broke a sleeve. I now have rods and epoxied around the sleeves to keep them intact. And I built it myself instead on relying on others. My last build a very reputable Honda shop built it (makes many 900+whp Hondas) and they forgot to put in the piston squirters. 🤦♂️
That TL is nicer than most of the ones I see around my neck of the woods. Many are 04-06 that are in terrible shape.
You guys need to start petitioning Hondata and Ktuner to get boost by gear for the TL platform. Keep 1 and 2 low and get full boost for 3rd, 4th and 5th (pretty much 1:1).
You guys need to start petitioning Hondata and Ktuner to get boost by gear for the TL platform. Keep 1 and 2 low and get full boost for 3rd, 4th and 5th (pretty much 1:1).
Hondata and ktuner don't find it worthwhile developing for the TL and who's to blame. People don't really boost their TL because the boost options are slim. You either go with gerzybear performance kit and lose ac which most don't want to do or you spend $10k+ for a custom turbo kit. Plus since the rotrex kit is belt driven boost increases as rpm increases so boost by gear isn't needed much. Just throttle modulation to keep the wheels semi happy. You can still break them loose of course
Hondata and ktuner don't find it worthwhile developing for the TL and who's to blame. People don't really boost their TL because the boost options are slim. You either go with gerzybear performance kit and lose ac which most don't want to do or you spend $10k+ for a custom turbo kit. Plus since the rotrex kit is belt driven boost increases as rpm increases so boost by gear isn't needed much. Just throttle modulation to keep the wheels semi happy. You can still break them loose of course
Originally Posted by ohnoitspiter
That's true yeah but it'll take a lot of power to reach those speeds and the aero on the TL isn't up to snuff to be stable at those speeds so I'll take the shorter gears to accelerate faster in the 0-140mph range.
Sadly blew it up twice. First time the I bent rods, and second time I broke a sleeve. I now have rods and epoxied around the sleeves to keep them intact. And I built it myself instead on relying on others. My last build a very reputable Honda shop built it (makes many 900+whp Hondas) and they forgot to put in the piston squirters. 🤦♂️
That TL is nicer than most of the ones I see around my neck of the woods. Many are 04-06 that are in terrible shape.
I’ve found that no one will give it the love and attention like you will.
So if it’s something important, do the work yourself.
It makes our cars more unique knowing a very small handful of people build these cars.
Unlike Cars with tons of aftermarket options.
When I go to Portland International raceway, I see lines of Caddy Vs, but no TLs.
Parts are easy to come by due to the volume of TLs sold in the U.S.
I believe in the next 5-10 years there will be a revival of the TL. Where people who once owned the car and loved it may want to pick one up. Because at that point they will be getting near Classic age.
Last edited by Acura TL Builder; 05-22-2019 at 01:41 PM.
Did you get your axles out? I had a bit of difficulty with mine as well. Found its best to keep trying to pry from the same angle and if it doesn't work; rotate the axle a little and try again. the idea is to create a separation between that retaining clip on the end of the axle and the transmission where the clip is weakest.
Did you get your axles out? I had a bit of difficulty with mine as well. Found its best to keep trying to pry from the same angle and if it doesn't work; rotate the axle a little and try again. the idea is to create a separation between that retaining clip on the end of the axle and the transmission where the clip is weakest.
Tranny propped with Jack. Tranny mounts removed.
I removed all 8 bolts holding the tranny onto the engine. Tranny lateral mounts have been removed. It’s essentially hanging by the spine rod the goes through the clutch and flywheel.
I have the engine propped up with an emergency jack, and the tranny with the main jack. The main jack is on wheels so it can move along with the tranny as I pull it out.
I tried removing the tranny, but it won’t budge. Perhaps that is because of the axles
still being attached..
Last edited by Acura TL Builder; 05-22-2019 at 09:52 PM.
05-21-2019, 08:05 AM
) and turn axle nut counter-clockwise with the full weight of car on the wheel and wifey on the brakes. Something should give.
