Best Guess?
Ive seen mixed reviews with j-pipe.. Most ppl compare dynos with stock.. But not with removed 3rd cats and oem j-pipe ive seen tl's yield similar power. As for the bucking issue i have zdx tb and 3.7 IM i thought the bucking would be annoying but i got use to it in a day.. I cant even tell if the car bucks now... Its not as bad as ppl make it seem
I really noticed the J pip change, RV6 V2. Now when it comes to people saying go 3.7 mani if you are base 3.2 PNP the manifold and runners you are there cheaper.
If you are looking for best bang for buck go Nitrous but your complaints with V tec would lead me to push you away from Nitrous because your going to complain about its engagement points and play with it, flood the system to soon and go zoom zoom BOOM.
if you barely beat your friends Camry V6 there is something wrong. even before I went fully bolted in my 06 5AT i was walking all over cars like that.
If you are looking for best bang for buck go Nitrous but your complaints with V tec would lead me to push you away from Nitrous because your going to complain about its engagement points and play with it, flood the system to soon and go zoom zoom BOOM.
if you barely beat your friends Camry V6 there is something wrong. even before I went fully bolted in my 06 5AT i was walking all over cars like that.
^^
A 2007+ V6 Camry is a low 14 second, 99-100 mph car. They're only a tick slower than a Type S 6 MT with a very competant driver. There was another member here who had a Type S 5AT with a few bolt ons and his friend with a Camry would always edge him out at the track as well. They're no joke for a Camry.
A 2007+ V6 Camry is a low 14 second, 99-100 mph car. They're only a tick slower than a Type S 6 MT with a very competant driver. There was another member here who had a Type S 5AT with a few bolt ons and his friend with a Camry would always edge him out at the track as well. They're no joke for a Camry.
I really noticed the J pip change, RV6 V2. Now when it comes to people saying go 3.7 mani if you are base 3.2 PNP the manifold and runners you are there cheaper.
If you are looking for best bang for buck go Nitrous but your complaints with V tec would lead me to push you away from Nitrous because your going to complain about its engagement points and play with it, flood the system to soon and go zoom zoom BOOM.
if you barely beat your friends Camry V6 there is something wrong. even before I went fully bolted in my 06 5AT i was walking all over cars like that.
If you are looking for best bang for buck go Nitrous but your complaints with V tec would lead me to push you away from Nitrous because your going to complain about its engagement points and play with it, flood the system to soon and go zoom zoom BOOM.
if you barely beat your friends Camry V6 there is something wrong. even before I went fully bolted in my 06 5AT i was walking all over cars like that.
Idk what year camry your friend has but fact the camry's are faster than auto TL NA.. Even faster than 4th gens.. I pulled on my friends camry about the same as i pull on auto tl's.. But im 6spd and had mods
^^
A 2007+ V6 Camry is a low 14 second, 99-100 mph car. They're only a tick slower than a Type S 6 MT with a very competant driver. There was another member here who had a Type S 5AT with a few bolt ons and his friend with a Camry would always edge him out at the track as well. They're no joke for a Camry.
A 2007+ V6 Camry is a low 14 second, 99-100 mph car. They're only a tick slower than a Type S 6 MT with a very competant driver. There was another member here who had a Type S 5AT with a few bolt ons and his friend with a Camry would always edge him out at the track as well. They're no joke for a Camry.
All the talk about intake and/or exhaust mods not adding noticeable gains forced me to become involved in this discussion...
People should think of the entire exhaust or intake system as an extension of the actual engine itself...or subsystems. They're merely parts of the engine that are engineered and designed to compliment the breathing characteristics of the long block itself. When a majority of the engines internals are left untouched, you can't really expect much power to be simply "left on the table". Sure, large diameter j-pipes won't add much (if anything) by themselves or neither will a larger j37 intake/TB. But if you were to install a cam with a profile for producing more power with some head mods, you will see these bolt on mods really wake the engine up because NOW they compliment the engines character. If anything, most people that work backwards (as I call it) by throwing a pile of intake/exhaust mods and only netting 20-30hp after a few grand is spent, all you're really doing is screwing with the powerband. And most of the time it does more harm than good. And let's not forget the biggest issue of all after installing some expensive, unmatched parts: no TUNING.
...otherwise save all your hard earned cash and install a 50hp dry shot and be done with it all.
People should think of the entire exhaust or intake system as an extension of the actual engine itself...or subsystems. They're merely parts of the engine that are engineered and designed to compliment the breathing characteristics of the long block itself. When a majority of the engines internals are left untouched, you can't really expect much power to be simply "left on the table". Sure, large diameter j-pipes won't add much (if anything) by themselves or neither will a larger j37 intake/TB. But if you were to install a cam with a profile for producing more power with some head mods, you will see these bolt on mods really wake the engine up because NOW they compliment the engines character. If anything, most people that work backwards (as I call it) by throwing a pile of intake/exhaust mods and only netting 20-30hp after a few grand is spent, all you're really doing is screwing with the powerband. And most of the time it does more harm than good. And let's not forget the biggest issue of all after installing some expensive, unmatched parts: no TUNING.
...otherwise save all your hard earned cash and install a 50hp dry shot and be done with it all.
All this straight line racing! I would never ever want a Camry even it was faster than my TL in a straight line. The fact that Toyota as to tell you it's cars are fun to drive is a red flag.
I still find it amazing how ppl can "tell a difference" in some of these mods.. Like to date the only mod i can sliiiightly tell a difference with is pcd.... I mean in a 0-60 we are talking about 1/10 of a second here.. Idk how in the world someone can "feel" that.. Im amazed... I mildly felt the difference in my friends 50shot of nitrous lmao.. Muchless a 3whp mod lmao...
I still find it amazing how ppl can "tell a difference" in some of these mods.. Like to date the only mod i can sliiiightly tell a difference with is pcd.... I mean in a 0-60 we are talking about 1/10 of a second here.. Idk how in the world someone can "feel" that.. Im amazed... I mildly felt the difference in my friends 50shot of nitrous lmao.. Muchless a 3whp mod lmao...
I don't know about every little mod, I'm sure the butt dyno can't feel them all, and if so it's probable a placebo effect, but on my 6MT, without any distractions and focusing on it, I could tell a difference when I was 100% stock taking off in 1st gear with vs without traction control. The fact that the car broke tire traction with the control off vs on helped to confirm.
Yeah, the Camry is well....a Camry. They're a good car, but just so awkward looking. An Accord trumps it in the cool factor department. I saw a Camry a few weeks ago with huge TRD stickers on the quarter panels. I was face-palming big time.
^ Sonnick, what would you suggest in the way of CAI if I'm planning on going with a 3.7 mani/TB swap - I was going to go with a AEM V2 but should I just hold off and custom fab a 4"?
Also, how beneficial will PnP on the mani / TB be, or would it only be worthwhile if I do the manifold runners at the same time? Would love some feedback as I'm in a similar boat - 2005 5AT TL with most of my bolt ons ready to go, just looking at the TB and Mani swap and RL cams to finish it off.
Also, how beneficial will PnP on the mani / TB be, or would it only be worthwhile if I do the manifold runners at the same time? Would love some feedback as I'm in a similar boat - 2005 5AT TL with most of my bolt ons ready to go, just looking at the TB and Mani swap and RL cams to finish it off.
In terms of the manifold porting, it's very difficult to port Magnesium from what I've heard. All I did was gasket match the lower 6 ports to the runners (also gasket matched) while I had everything out. It probably helped a little, but I can't say how much you would gain with it vs. without it. I just did it because it was convenient and I wanted everything to match up.
All the talk about intake and/or exhaust mods not adding noticeable gains forced me to become involved in this discussion...
People should think of the entire exhaust or intake system as an extension of the actual engine itself...or subsystems. They're merely parts of the engine that are engineered and designed to compliment the breathing characteristics of the long block itself. When a majority of the engines internals are left untouched, you can't really expect much power to be simply "left on the table". Sure, large diameter j-pipes won't add much (if anything) by themselves or neither will a larger j37 intake/TB. But if you were to install a cam with a profile for producing more power with some head mods, you will see these bolt on mods really wake the engine up because NOW they compliment the engines character. If anything, most people that work backwards (as I call it) by throwing a pile of intake/exhaust mods and only netting 20-30hp after a few grand is spent, all you're really doing is screwing with the powerband. And most of the time it does more harm than good. And let's not forget the biggest issue of all after installing some expensive, unmatched parts: no TUNING.
...otherwise save all your hard earned cash and install a 50hp dry shot and be done with it all.
People should think of the entire exhaust or intake system as an extension of the actual engine itself...or subsystems. They're merely parts of the engine that are engineered and designed to compliment the breathing characteristics of the long block itself. When a majority of the engines internals are left untouched, you can't really expect much power to be simply "left on the table". Sure, large diameter j-pipes won't add much (if anything) by themselves or neither will a larger j37 intake/TB. But if you were to install a cam with a profile for producing more power with some head mods, you will see these bolt on mods really wake the engine up because NOW they compliment the engines character. If anything, most people that work backwards (as I call it) by throwing a pile of intake/exhaust mods and only netting 20-30hp after a few grand is spent, all you're really doing is screwing with the powerband. And most of the time it does more harm than good. And let's not forget the biggest issue of all after installing some expensive, unmatched parts: no TUNING.
...otherwise save all your hard earned cash and install a 50hp dry shot and be done with it all.
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