Are you sure the crank pulley is a harmonic balancer? There is a HUGE discussion about this in other threads.

 

if you have a light crank pulley, and u get a light FW, then you install the stock crank pulley back on the car.

advantages...well it depends on what you're looking for...the stock FW is a dual mass...thats to smoothen out the shifts.
if youve ever seen one, its made outta 2 pieces, with springs in between..to absorb drivetrain shock, which also initially delays direct power delivery to the wheels...that, coupled with the DBW throttle, and slave cylinder check valve, create a delay in shifts, but also take away a lot of drivetrain shock, and harsh engagements, which of course, its something average drivers will complain about.

but if ur looking for pure performance...DBW isn't the way to go, neither is a dual mass FW, and neither is a check valve inside the slave cylinder, or a self adjusting PP

remember, this car was designed as a regular car with a taste of sportiness..and not a straight up sports car with street driveablility.

again...the best way to go about this is...stock crank pulley, and light weight FW. Look, im all for performance, so if im gonna set anything up, its going to be strictly towards that.

and to answer your question from the last post...i dont know where these threads are, but as ive said before...our crank pulley is a harmonic balancer!

 

Opel, thanks for the explanation. I didn't realize that the stock FW was two piece. I did know about the slave and PP issues.

With regard to dbw, I assume you are referring to the throttle control. Are you running cabled in parallel with the dbw system?

 

yes im talking about the throttle control...my setup is currently stock...ive thought about setting smth up to have it completely cabled for a long time, but i never got to it. focus has been on other things, and aside from accomplishing new things...tackling problems has always been a big part of the journey lol.

 

aw crap! well in that case i have a UR pulley for sale if anyone is interested LOL.

 

Me too after I replace the clutch......

 

I want to get the stage 3 with alum FW. I called CM yesterday to ask if I have to send my FW in. The saleman said since I have an 04 TL, that they have the correct set-up. He also said that 05 and up are the ones that have to send in their FW. If this is true, this is going to be my next mod!

 

I compared the FW part number on the Delray site and the 04 and 06 flywheel has the same part number.

Since the ring gear is the only problem then the starters should have a different part number as well. Checked that and they're the same too.

 

my clutch is in as of today. I'm not sure if it was a CM error or just my mechanic being the dumbass he really is, but he was having quite a few issues getting the clutch to disengage. The clutch pedal has to be on the floor to be disengaged and even then it feels like it's just barely making it. I think i need a stronger master cylinder. he said something about the adjuster rod under the dash at the pedal. i drove it around a bit... damn. The PP on my setup is strong! and there is NO give, all go, but after a while it was tough to get in gear. Opel i could really use your imput on this one.

 

There is a adjustment for freeplay and height under the dash. When I pulled the check valve, I adjusted mine so it was further off the floor.

I forget, did you send in your old FW and have the ring put on the new?

 

^^ did you adjust it?? if not, thats your problem. the height of the diaphram is completely different than the stock unit, so its a must and needs to be adjusted out (to where your pedal goes higher. its really simple to do and all you need is a 12mm wrench

give it a shot and let me know how it goes.

 

ok...im going to assume that bleeding has been done correctly? if any air at all in the system, would affect ur engagement point, and would bring it lower..in fact, this is what i do to get my clutch to engage lower, by not bleeding it all the way...but this isn't ur issue...so make sure its been bled completely..first check for any dead play at the top of the pedal..u should not have any big play, very very little when fully bled. check this by hand, not with ur foot, cause the pedal's own weight could just be weighting down and u wouldn't notice any play..pull back on the pedal and check

if bleeding has been done correctly...you can try the rod under the dash, by screwing it out to create some more push on the master cylinder...i honestly dont like this idea, as in most cases, it creates pressure on the PP and can cause clutch slippage especially on stock clutches...so be careful, and do it very little at a time

im just not too sure if ur mechanic did this correctly.

 

there u go..accord came just on time :0) that sounds like ur prob, since the diaphram is different...then the pedal should be adjusted

 

I had the same concerns as Opel so to compensate for lengthening the rod, I also raised the pedal using top adjustment which also contains the switch.

I was worried that just adjusting the rod in would keep constant pressure on the throw out bearing.

 

another thing is he was worried that since the rod is all the way out that it might bend while i'm shifting? i was also talking with a friend who said i might need to have the master cylinder replaced? I have a feeling that this retard didn't bleed and refill the clutch right, i'm going to take it to a tranny shop and see what they say too.

Yes i had the FW sent in and remade. no ring gear issue, thank god!

 

so i just want to know for sure. Adjusting that rod out is a must??? the setup is not wrong then?

hey accord, did u get my pm about those mounts?

 

you need to make sure you bleed the clutch good... and you dont have to adjust the rod that much for the clutch to start engaging...if you adjust it too much the master cylinder will fail...

 

y would it fail?

 

under constant pressure...but id be more worried about the clutch when there's constant pressure on the MC...best way to do this is, while you adjust the MC rod, have someone keep an eye on the slave cylinder so you can adjust it untill the pp arm starts moving, and keep it at its minimal...this way you gain max pedal travel going towards the disengagement

 

Good point. There is a freeplay spec to prevent this.

 

Adjusting the rod out and raising the pedal will increase the throw. So you can balance out the engagement point and freeplay by playing with those adjustments.

 

Xiomaro, I would DEFINITELY start by bleeding the clutch again..you can mess with the slave cylinder and pedal height but having that too far off can cause your disk to crack over time. I had the EXACT same problem when I first installed the kit as well. Bleed and re-bleed and you might not have to mess with anything else.

 

thats the thing is that it's adjusted all the way out right now. i'll work on getting it bled out, it sucks cuz i had him fill it with GM friction modifier! he said that it might adjust back down after the disc wears in a bit? think it's possible?

 

Huh? The GMSMFM is tranny fluid. They're talking about the hydraulic clutch that uses brake fluid.

If it's all the way out on a new clutch, then it's got to have air in it. Mine had a lot of threads left and only needed like 1/2 a turn.

 

wait, what am i thinkin of... o well

 

i got a official fix for the clutch master cylinder problem....works perfect....hit me up for more details

 

What problem with the clutch master cylinder are you referring to?

Also how is the clutch so far?

 

the clutch engagement with the stock master cylinder....

 

^^^why dont you just post it up? in here VVVV right down there

 

its a little expensive but it works 100%
i bought a omni clutch master cylinder for a rsx type s which has the same oem part number as our cars ...then a ss line straight from that to an oem rsx type s slave cylinder it "dosent have the check valve like our cars" ...i paid almost 350 for every thing but its worth every penny...clutch engagement is instant with solid pedal pressure...

 

now, what was the point you did all that for? i just wanna understand this.
there is no problems with "our master cylinder"
Not having the checkvalve doesnt justify $350 when u can remove it from our slave cylinder for FREE

any clutch will engage instantly with a "Solid PP", ...
once ur foot is off the pedal, the pressure on the fluid is removed, and it will all instantly flow back depending on how heavy the PP is.

You replaced a stock HARD line with a SS one! that's fine and dandy, but I don't really get it. there's just a 12" hose connecting the 2 hard lines our clutch system has and that small hose is available from Mr.heeltoe.

not attacking u or anything...i just would really like to know what the problem is, that you say you have a fix for...i just dont even know of a problem

 

the dealer replaced my master cylinder 2 times because it wouldnt keep pressure...with the cm clutch kit i had to adjust the it as well which i didnt like... it was going again so i just decided to just put a better one...

 

So can we expect the master cylinder to have problems?

The odd part about this is they replaced two masters and still had the problem....After the first replacement, I would have ruled that part out.

Something doesn't sound right here.

 

do you have the the pressure plate with crown top diaphram, or the flat diaphram?

04Accord has reported such problem, as blowing the MC, and it was caused by the PP being with flat diaphram...

maybe he will chime in.

Btw, sorry i didnt even realize you're the OP lol..
I didnt even have a clue you had an aftermarket clutch, that's why i expressed the surprise at you changing your whole system.

 

Damn, I didn't realize this either, sorry about that. Getting all these threads all blended together.

So many things to keep in mind when upgrading.

When the dealer changed your master cylinder twice, did they know you were running an aftermarket clutch? Was it under warranty or did you pay for it?

 

i have the same clutch kit as him ,,,the dealer change it for me under warranty no charge but they tried to tell me that my clutch was going thats why the pedal was stiff...

 

do these "techs" at the dealers ever know anything? Especially the service advisors, that each time i ever went to the dealer (stopped going 4 years ago) never knew wtf i was talking about

same clutch as him...yes i can understand that, same stage 3 kit...but smth can be diff and u wouldn't notice, such as what i mentioned about the PP..thats why i asked!

 

i didnt notice the pp...

 

that was most likely the problem that caused MC to blow up

 

i know i've got a flat top pp in mine. And i did get everything adjusted correctly. bled the system added the SS line and refilled... so much air in the line btw. so i'm gona roll on what i've got setup now and if my master cylinder goes i'll swap straight to the upgraded. For now i've got great grab and smooth pressure. I will never go back to that F@#%Tard that did my clutch job. I'm still finding stuff to fix from this guy. not to mention a nice big dent on one of my fenders...