well i took out my clutch again.. pain in the ass ...and before i send it to clutch masters to get rebuild i took some pics...it only has 8k on it and it started slipping from 5k...it also looks like a peace of the throw out bearing broke and was hitting the flywheel and pressure plate..i hope this is the last time i have to change the clutch..if it goes bad again i will part out the car...

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is that a stock organic disc? u have a clutchmasters setup... heavier PP? lightweight flywheel? dont they have ceramic discs for their setups? smth like 4 or 6 puck?

poinless in having a heavier PP with stock disc

 

its there stage 1 ...i switched it for better drive ability... now am going back to the stage 3

 

man....go for something harsher...skip the organic disc at whatever stage its offered, also skip the kevlar disc too.... go for ceramic!!!

 

good luck E

 

More and more, I'm becoming convinced that the OEM setup is the best.

 

^Stop being a wussy.

 

Wish you were near by I would let u drive my car to let u feel the clutch setup same as stock after 500 mile breakin , we use a aftermarket clutch disc which works with stock flywheel & pressure plate...

 

x2

 

How on earth is the stock set up better??? A dual-mass flywheel (btw, do you guys actually know exactly what dual-mass does and how it works? Its disfusting), an ORGANIC disc (yea its organic, the FDA didn't allow Honda to use any hormones or artificial fertilizers lol) sandwitched between a so-so pressure plate... A disc made outta soap would grab better than the stock disc!

When it heats up and under stress, it becomes dull and loses any grabbing it can offer... Lack of that, causes it to create heat spots all over the FW and PP...

If you ever tried grinding aluminum..it will work initially untill the grind wheel resurfaces itself with AL shavings, turning into a dull boring wheel, doing nothing but causing heat and burning...
That's what you can kinda compare it to.

A caramic disc will grab MUCH MUCH better... While over time it will eat through the FW and PP, the benefits are more rewarding..limited heat spots due to instant biting upon friction, reducing slippage..power being put down to the ground effectively with less of a delay upon engagement..and on and on...

If nothing else..if not a complete high performance clutch set up... At least a ceramic disc will make you a lot happier over the stock disc made outta vegtables

 

[QUOTE=Opel;11154428]How on earth is the stock set up better???

Not gonna get into the technality of how a clucth works but if u read you'll see
that we are using stock pressure plate stock flywheel and a disc that is not stock that we had produced for manuals , which will be available thru our site, pen and paper states a lot but in reality numbers speak for themselfs and driveabilty , were making 416lb tq with that disc and stock pressure plate & flywheel, no one is dyning that if I went away with stock components it would pull quicker feel way more peppier but who wants to give up that stock feel when u can have 437 hp & 416 lb tq and still be comfortable .... + no headaches ....keep it simple and comfortable unless you're plan on building a outrageous build .. That's just my

 

that maybe be so, BUT the stock PP isnt going to hold up once you figure out a way to get that massive 437whp/416lbs tq to the ground. i know i sound like a broken record, but its the truth. its the clamping power of the stock PP thats the problem, not so much the disc itself. the moment you put some DR's or slicks and heat them up, its going to slip first launch. i can almost gaurantee it


heres a pic of specs PP, which is nothing more than a glorified stock unit painted a pretty blue color with their logo . they do claim that they beefed it up though, by adding material on the surface to get more of a crunch on the disc and up its clamping power.


heres the same exact PP after a couple of months of driving with some DR"s and some hard launches


^^ notice anything missing from the after picture? all those spring loaded little comfort gadgets on the top of the PP, sheared off from the force of trying to do a job its simply not designed for and getting thrown around inside

oh, lets not forget the pic of what happen to the FW in all this mayhem in his case not a stock dual mass, but an expensive $1000. comptech lightweight flywheel


i had hopes that this kit you speak of from competition clutch was a disc and PP combo, not just a disc :/ cause seriously, the stock PP is total garbage

 

accord....what kinda disc did u fry the Fw and PP with? lol

 

hope this finally works out for you buddy

on a side note your ring gears looks ok.

 

Fixed, lol!

NO AFTERMARKET CLUTCH FOR 3G TL's have EVER worked out. Clutches should VERY EASILY reach 100K, and NONE have EVER done so.

Please someone let me know when you have even went 1/3 of that, to 33K on an aftermarket clutch. I'll be chompin' at the bit, TRUST ME, but it's JUST NOT THERE.

Opel, your comment makes sense in "theory", but it just hasn't happened. Hence my response above. I'd LOVE a beefier aftermarket clutch.

 

under normal driving...a clutch can reach more than 100k miles...but thats not whats being discussed....what "normal driver" wants a heavier clutch if it wasnt for the purpose of trying to put power to the ground? i beat on my car, therefore stock set up is very very weak for me and my power.

 

^ Agreed, brother.

But if I spend the money to go aftermarket for a "more durable/beefier" clutch, I want it to last more than a couple months, or < 10K. That's all I'm saying. I'm the first person in line that wants a better clutch, but not even 1 person who's had Spec/CM/any aftermarket setups have reported anything other than failures.

 

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^ Agreed, brother.

But if I spend the money to go aftermarket for a "more durable/beefier" clutch, I want it to last more than a couple months, or < 10K. That's all I'm saying. I'm the first person in line that wants a better clutch, but not even 1 person who's had Spec/CM/any aftermarket setups have reported anything other than failures.
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your right about that....thats why i sent my clutch back to them so they can see whats going on...i just really hope the next on is better.. i think it is the pp thats not holding up..as soon as i get word from cm i will let you guys know what part failed....

 

^
pm me when they get back to u. i'm havin my guy take out my oem FW this week and it and the CM FW are on its way back to get reworked. maybe the pp u had was defective... hope mine's not.

Did u say they had a better PP?

 

btw, the PP looks ok in the pics. The fingers aren't moshed or destroyed. It just looks like the throwout bearing blew apart or maybe the teeth or the ring gear ground off some shrapnel and it was just reeking havoc in there?

 

It was the throwout bearing that got messed up.....i should get it back on tuesday...he machined the flywheel and gave me a new pp and tob...i hope this is the last time i have too replace the clutch

 

tl2slow - how's your clutch working out for you? Mine is going to shit fast. I need some sort of solution before settling for the stock clutch. I plan on keeping the stock FW, because I heard lighten FW and pulleys don't mix.

So far I get that ceramic disc are the way to go. Just need a reliable aftermarket PP. Considering Clutch Master, but wanting to hear if they got their shit together.

 

cm fixed the problem..i put 8000 k on it and its perfect ...

 

Great! What exactly did they fix? Did you switch the ring gear or did CM do it for you? I need as much info as possible, so my install goes smoothly.

Also do you still have the UR pulley on with the lighten FW?

 

[QUOTE=pass427;11154564]Seems as though everyone who is burning up aftermarket clutches is really putting them through hell. They'd likely burn up your disk as well.

 

if you order from them direct they will send out the correct flywheel with updated pp and bearing. if you order from a 3 person you will get the bullshit kit and it will fail. thats what happen to me the first time.. just call them and talk to jose and tell him you got a tl and you want the kit with the right ring gear and you will hook you up..i think they still have free shipping if you buy the whole kit from them too...

 

Thank for the info! Got to do my brakes first, then I will be ready for a new clutch. I hope this works out!

 

what brakes are you gonna use???

 

I'm got a deal for rotors off of TL-S. Mine need replacing. Also getting ET300 pads.

 

nah those pads suck if you drive crazy like me...get some pads for the evo...we have the same cailpers..i got some endless pads on mine..they stoop on a dime with no pedal fade at all.. they cost a little bit but they are worth it...

 

Cool! How's the brake dust? I can't stand brake dust; reason switching from the stock pads.

 

what was the deal with the lightweight flywheel and the lightweight pulley? people having failures???

 

One or the Other...you cant have both. Personally I'll righter go with the lightweight flywheel than the pulley.

 

theres allot less brake dust than the oem pads for sure but if you go on a long trip or dont wash your car for a while you will notice the dust. as for the pulley and fly wheel...i have both with no problems..

 

but y can't you have both??? crank walk?

 

From what I gathered from a previous conversation, I think you will loose some of the needed inertial mass. You need the spinning weight. Although I did a 8lb flywheel and a UR underdrive pulley on my Prelude and never had any issues. It was NA, so as long as the revs were high enough at launch, boom, it would catch and go.

What weight fly wheel is coming with the package from CM for the TL? The DM stock one is heavy as all get out!

 

no need to worry about that at all...the crank on the TL is heavy enough...the counterweights on the crank provide plenty of inertia...besides the light weight flywheel isnt completely weightless...even if its 10 lbs..at the FWs diameter, its plenty of weight

 

you could, but, i wouldn't recommend, since our crank pulley is a harmonic balancer...the difference between the crank pulley and the flywheel going lighter on each one, the FW provides way more gains in every way...i would simply do Light FW and stock crank pulley

 

I wouldn't do both either..it will work for a period of time then you'll end up cracking your flywheel

 

So what if you already have a light crank pulley?

Is there any advantages of the stock FW over a aftermarket lightened FW?

I kept the stock crank pulley so I could go the other way if there are distinct advantages of heavy crank pulley/light FW vs light crank pulley/stock FW.