Originally Posted by yungone501

IATs are reading fine up till heat soak occurs. I've went through and tried slightly/overly richening AF mixture but did nothing. It seems to be a simple problem of the cooling system being unable to reject the massive amounts of heat once a few boosted runs are made. Up till then, both ECTs and IATs are perfect. You can feel heat being rejected at the cooling fans while ECTs are rising. If the heater is turned on, it almost seems to solve the issue of heat not being removed from the coolant.

As for venting, remember this engine (J35A8) is installed in a 1998 Accord therefore my hood was nearly spaced 2" at the windshield cowling. It's essentially a cowl induction hood. That's not the issue I'm sure.

I think what I need is to get creative with how the heat is removed from the coolant. I was thinking of maybe adding an electric water pump (in conjunction with the engines mechanical water pump) and add another heat exchanger in the rear of the vehicle. I know it sounds far fetched but this thing has ALOT of heat! I could take the return hose that comes from the radiator and make that the supply to the rear heat exchanger and then a return coming back to the engine feeding the thermostat housing inlet.

I've tried everything shy of pulling the thermostat out (which I refuse to do) to alleviate the problem. Extreme measures for extreme problems.

Feedback?

Originally Posted by Hi speed

Are you running the stock Accord radiator? Maybe look at the 3G TL radiator since I'm pretty sure it is a dual bypass design making it much more efficient at shedding heat. I would also look into a 180 degree thrermostat as an option. Are you seeing the temp needle sitting higher after runs? Running an electric water pump and speeding up the flow of coolant will only the make the issue worse since your are allowing less time for the coolant to shed the heat.

Originally Posted by KN_TL

Mine is strictly IAT heat soak. ECT's are normal.

Originally Posted by yungone501

Yes, I am running the original radiator and plan on purchasing an aluminum 2-row replacement. The 3g TL radiator is a single pass but is larger 1" core which 3/8" larger than the original Accord radiator which has a core thickness if 5/8". So it would be better than what I have BUT if I'm pulling this one out, I might as well do the aluminum and get it over with.

As for the thermostat, the oem stat begins to open at 170 and is fully open at 185. Doing a 180 wouldn't be that big of a difference but I really want to leave a low-temp thermostat as a last option as it might cause the engine below optimal operating temp when conditions aren't causing the overheating issue I have. I actually just finished installing a new thermostat and it never got above 208 and would stay around 185-190 while cruising. The original one would peak at 225 and hardly ever go below 200 after heat soak began. So it DID help but did not solve the issue.

I think you misunderstood my idea of ADDING an auxiliary water pump. This would be used along with the factory pump and would only be for the extra push power of the added volume of coolant...NOT as the engines primary pump for coolant. In other words, a supplementary cooling system.