Well I was trying to figure how to post the pics of the Dyno Runs But It is way to complicated ... Here are my numbers

max power 253.7
Max torq 216.9
A/F ratio 11.6

Bone Stock AUTO 3,517 miles

 

Go to Photobucket.com - click the upload to album button - browse for your picture - Once its uploaded, you will see below the picture on the photobucket my album page three links - copy the last one into here...

Remember you have to create a Photobucket account...

 

Young bone stock AT car, WOW, nice power! I managed those numbers, not even, fully modded sans the supercharger of course on my 04 AT! Real nice, congrats! You gotta love the J motor.

The AF is on the rich side though, for a stock car that is. How's you fuel economy? That's the same as mine, but my car is blown and crazy modded.

What kind of a dyno machine, DynoJet?

 

 

Wtf Am I Doing Wrong Im Getting So Pissed

 

Can someone Host a dyno pic for me?? my email is chriscapo9@aol.com

 

wow, the auto?! that seems like bangin good power for a bone stock car!

the AFR's seem a bit rich. Need to tune these things, afc or hondata or something!

good luck, sounds like its fun!

 

Ya its an AUTO ... I wish I could post these ,,,,,

 

Yea , Auto 3 thousand miles on it one oil change ........... Im happy with the Numbers i guess as they are very close to advertised ... I wish the car had more power though DEF...

 

I don't get it, does anyone mind explainging this to me. Acura states 07 tl-s hit 286 hp and 256lb torque. I never seen a dyno sheet with those numbers or close to thise. What's up with that? I know every car is different but why not say the Tl gets 260 hp?

 

acura states a hp and trq number that is the power going to the crank. there's power loss - ac, alternator, heat, friction, wheel weight, etc etc. so by the time you read the WHEEL hp its much less than at the crank. shitty explanation but if you want a better one try wikipedia

 

OOO makes sense thanks ussi

 

does the 6MT only put down about 251~253 whp?? i guess all dynos really are different.... and different run conditions really make a difference...


nice #'s for an auto. im impressed

 

Those are really impressive #'s for an auto. With some bolt on's will bring it close to 290-300hp.

 

What Dyno was it on?
253.7 WHP is Great BRAH

 

Heres the link to the place I Dyno at ... Been going there for years with all the mustangs and grand nationals I put together .. they use a Dynojet

http://www.jds-high-performance.com/index.htm

 

Aside from the pulleys and AEM CAI What are people doing with these??? Are there chips yet?

 

First, the dyno chart is corrected to STD. STD is 4-5% higher than SAE correction. So you made 4-5% more power vs the same test corrected to SAE (which is what real shops correct to). Not really your problem and hey it's in your favor right?

Second, if your torque converter was not FULLY locked up then your numbers are skewed. I doubt they had the ability to lock it up 100% so therefore it slipped at WOT. Don't worry, they all slip somewhat except for the really expensive multi-clutch torque converters.

You made decent numbers but take dyno numbers with a grain of salt.

A-Train

 

i noticed your AF was 11.6.... how come im running 15 ????

 

I have never seen a factory PCM command an A/F ratio leaner than STOICH (14.64:1) at WOT.

If you are 15:1 at WOT then you are in trouble. I'd take a sparkplug out and inspect it for pepper marks or very white porcelin.

Most N/A cars run an A/F ratio of 12.2-12.5 at WOT. Supercharged cars run richer to cool of the combustion chambers and exhaust. My 400 HP T-Bird ran 11.5:1 at WOT with 10-psi of boost.

Have the A/F ratio re-checked on a dyno with a wide band 02 sensor.

A-Train

 

the dynojet used a wideband 02 sensor... could that be the reason for low #'s on my dyno?

ATrain, i like your advice, you seem to know your stuff... any recommendations? you think spark plugs? what should i do !!

 

Here is my dyno chart. this was with ALL bolt on's & 19"s... bit of a hot day, but something didnt seem right. check the AF ratio on the bottom, all three runs were pretty conclusive to 15

 

i should say, high 14's.... thats bad , isnt it?

 

i will bring her to my mechanic tomorrow.. just need some insight/advice

 

Ok here is how it works...

The chemically correct formula for Heptane (which is gasoline) is 14.64:1. The ideal A/F ratio for any gasoline engine is 14.64:1. Most people say 14.7:1 and that is fine.

So you run most efficient at 14.64:1 or 14.64 parts air to 1 part fuel. Anything numerically higher than 14.64:1 is LEAN. Anything numerically lower than 14.64:1 is RICH.

I have never seen a factory PCM command an A/F ratio leaner than STOICH at WOT. To see your wide band readings at 15:1 is insane at WOT. Something has to be altering that reading.

Here is what I have done in the past as a cheat. Take a simple program like AutoTap (www.autotap.com) and just log the UPSTREAM oxygen sensors at WOT.

If they read 0.85 - 0.9 mv then you are around 12.5:1 A/F. If they read 1.00 or higher then you are PIG RICH. If they read 0.6 mv you are melting parts.

Now some of you might argue with me and tell me that at WOT the oxygen sensors are not being used to determine A/F ratio. Yes that is true, they do not function in the calculation. That is just it, the computer learns at part throttle and applies it to WOT as a calculated figure. The fact is the 02's still read voltage regardless.

If the findings match what the wide band says...then you are in trouble and are very lean. If the findings differ then it could have been an anomoly just as the wide band reads AFTER the catalytic converters. Anybody know what a cat does?

It converts carbon monoxide into carbon dioxide and water. Thus changing the amount of oxygen in the exhaust. This is why you have a downstream 02 sensor to monitor catalyst efficiency. If the 02 content doesn't change after passing through the cats...CHECK ENGINE away.

Anyhow, it is possible for the after cat reading to be different from what the PCM has commanded for an actual A/F ratio. So the wide band isn't 100% accurate at the tailpipe. It's close enough for most dyno tuners.

Checking the spark plugs can tell you lots. In order to get a real feel, the plug has to see WOT just before shutting down the engine. Any time spent at part throttle and idle will clean the plugs off. If they are very white or have pepper marks on the porcelain than your are knocking. I know the TL has a knock sensor, but it can only compensate so much.

If the plugs look good should try another dyno to be sure.

A-Train

 

I do have the e-shift cats @ 200 cell/in apposed to OEM @ (i think 1200).

Have, i think others also have the CATS, and i have yet to see a car as lean as I am. I am actually concerned, though it could very well be the dyno I am.

So, can you explain the knock to me a little more? If i am knocking, what can be done to fix this? what would cause it? I mean, honestly the car drives great and feels fine 95% of the time. The dyno #'s made me feel like something was wrong, because i guess i had my heart set @ 240whp and eveybody else is showing 12-13 A/F ratio. My mechanic doesnt have a dyno, and nobody around me quite has the equipment to tune it.

I was supposed to be getting boosted next week, but am a little concerned about further causing any damange to my engine. I also need to check my UR pulley, as i am not sure the mechanic properly torqued it (no affiliation with the AF ratio though, right?)

Thanks. you are the man

 

Outstanding explanation A-Train.

 

I don't know wheather this is related to the subject, but I do Know that the compression ratio for the 3.2 TL (2004+) is 11.0:1, heres all the stuff for it:

ngine
Engine Type: Aluminum Alloy 3.2-liter, 24-Valve, SOHC VTEC™ V-6
Displacement (liters): 3.2
Horsepower (SAE net): 270 bhp @ 6200 rpm
Torque: 238 lbs-ft @ 5000 rpm
Redline: 6800 rpm
Compression Ratio: 11.0:1
Fuel Injection: Computer-controlled Programmed Fuel Injection (PGM-FI)
Ignition: Electronic direct
Emissions: CARB LEV-2 ULEV/EPA Tier 2-Bin 5
Crankcase Refill Capacity, Including Filter: 4.2 U.S. quarts (4.0 liters)
Cooling System Capacity

Automatic:

8.6 U.S. quarts (8.0 liters)

Manual:

8.3 U.S. quarts (7.9 liters)


Transmission
5-speed automatic with Sequential SportShift(tm) and Grade Logic Control Gear Ratios

1st:2.563

2nd:1.552

3rd:1.021

4th:0.666

5th:0.48

Reverse:1.846

Final:4.428

Close-ratio 6-speed manual transmission with helical gear limited slip differential Gear Ratios

1st:3.933

2nd:2.478

3rd:1.7

4th:1.25

5th:0.975

6th:0.77

Reverse:4.008

Final:3.285

 

WOW, A-Train is the man!!! I didn't know anything until now.

Just the understanding of Dyno's and power loss through drivetrain.

Learned a little more HERE today! Way to go A-Train!

 

yea, he does that. you should see his explanation of spark plugs in one of my other threads. very educational

 

this graph looks as if they didnt hook the o2 sensor in at all, or their sensor is out or stuck lean. Your car is fine if u dont have any CEL's.

 

well, i noticed last night.. something must definitely be wrong my car/tuning..

i took a 130 mile trip, and i was doing a solid 90mph... sometimes a 100...

and the ENTIRE time, no matter how hard i hit the gas, WOT or whatnot, the car was getting 30mpg (or atleast according to the trip CPU)

now, when the car was bone stock and i put on my 19's, i was always getting 27mpg.... so i feel like not enough fuel is getting into my engine..... im confused

 

again, i highly doubt its has to do with your car. the dyno reads THEIR o2 sensor, not yours.

if your sensor was out, it would light a CEL, so happy driving! your car is a-ok. Your in-car gas mileage meter is not entirely accurate and you cannot depend entirely on the car electronics b/c they only give numbers based on calculations. (ie. oil life % is not accurate at all, you can get an oil analysis and show that there is still plenty of oil "life" in it.)

 

you can't really rely on the trip's mpg...its estimated....a wideband o2 could tell you alot more about your a/f ratio...

 

i know its estimated, but it used to estimate 26~27mpg on the highway, @ cruising speed. last night, my cruise speed was 80, pushing up to 100 here and there for 130 miles straight and it kept reading 29~30 mpg

maybe nothing is wrong with my car, but why did i only get 227whp!! lol

 

different dynos, locations, etc =different results.

you should consider a dyno only as a measuring tool to measure changes. ie. before/after effect of adding intake/exhaust/etc. With using the same dyno, you can see results.

 

i never dyno-ed once. just did it a month ago w/ all bolt-on mods attached. I have been considering the boomslang harness, and tuning it with a Greddy eManage.

will that be pointless since i am N/A ?

 

its not just the trip MPG i am looking at. Last night i the ride i took was a total of about 270 miles round trip. i only used half a tank of gas... which means, i could have gone another 270 + the reserve 3 gallons. which in turn, means i could get about 540~600 miles per tank?? thats a little unbelieveable. i mean, honestly, the gas efficiency has been awesome since i travel for work.... but do the math

600 miles per tank / 17.1 gallons. Thats 35MPG. the EPA was 29, and that is driving slow and normal. i tend to go faster on the highway (usually a constant 75~80 in designated speed zones) + i have some heavy 19" chrome wheels with 235/35 which should decrease gas mileage. then you figure the cats, CAI, exhaust... shouldnt i be burning more gas, not less?

Am i crazy to be concerned? Car runs like a dream, idles perfect and strong @ 750rpm. doesnt misfire, rides smooth. just doesnt feel as fast as it used to be...

 

I normally do not recommend piggybacks because i've seen horrendous results when factored in with time and longevity.

but the emanage ultimate is a safe bet, not emanage blue. i am currently using emanage ultimate on my bro's car with great success. its really close to a standalone as you can get. there is even a base setting for the J-series.

The HP per dollar might not be worth it, but if u want to try it and have money to spare, go ahead. Factor in: emanage ultimate unit itself, boomslang harness, and dyno tuning at a reputable tuner. (dont just go to any tuner) All that can total out to be almost, if not, over $1k.

So if u were dead set on EMS tuning, then get all the best possible bolt-ons and n/a mods possible before tuning.

But if u really want more power for the buck, nitrous is the way to go.

 

i wouldn't mind gettin 600miles to a tank....with gas prices sky rocketing, ill trade right now....but any who....that doesn't make sense, either your ecu is dumber than a box of rocks...and can't calculate....or your car really is running a tit bit lean...