So I ordered it last week from excellerate performance (thanks!) and it got here teusday when I promptly installed it. very very easy. Removed passenger tire, removed shroud in front of crank pulley, removed pulley nut (whoah was this thing tight!!!), removed belt and removed pulley (by hand!!). Reversed process for installation, instructions come with torque specs. I called a dyno shop yesterday in Nashville and they are going to call me back next week with an appt. I am going to get 3-5 pulls to get a good baseline. 75 bucks.

Oh yeah and this pulley is the underdrive pulley for the 04-06 TL 3.2L. So to re-cap so far I have installed the AEM CAI, Outlaw Engineering thermoblock spacers, and UR pulley all made for the 3.2 04-06 tl.

Review: First thing I notice is my engine revs much much faster. WOW!! Difference is amazing. Intake makes a little bit different type of growl.. It is noticeably faster as well. I highly recomend this mod. Amazing the weight difference between this pulley and the factory pulley.

SO!! Who wants to geuss what I am going to Dyno next week? I am interested as to what everyone will think I will put down. I am hoping for 275-280 at the wheels. We shall see though, maybe thats hoping too much. Considering the S has 286HP at the crank and the few things I have done... We will find out.

 

Nice work TLFourplay. You are doing some serious R&D on the Type S. I'll bet you will be around 265 WHP. This will also depend on the dyno. Good Luck.

 

Thanks man. I have never dynoed a car before and I do know there is a difference in dyno's but I dont know what the difference is. Here is a link to the place I am going. Let me know please I would like to educate myself on dyno's more before I go. http://www.theperformancegarage.com/ Site doesnt say much except its a dynojet dyno.

 

somebody dynoed around 230 bone stock.. automatic.. no way in hell will you be near 280.. if you are? damn.!! good luck

 

Nice job. Enjoy the power. And thanks again.

 

Someone dynoed the 07 TL type-S 3.5L??

 

Yeah, its around here somewhere....it was an auto though, you have a 6MT right?

I'm guessing around 265whp...good luck!

 

Hey Tony,

Got your orders yet?

From the pics it looks like the pulley swap wasn't that difficult (aside from the pulley nut)?????


I'll stay posted for your dyno results.

~ JC

 

Pickin em up today Yeah it was really easy. i was nervous for some reason to start it up after I was done. lol. Like maybe it went out of timing or something even though the rational part of me knows that is impossible. Was real easy though. I just dont feel comfortable sometimes doing things to such an expensive car.

 

That made me laugh...

You've already done so much, in such a short amount of time, it's hard to believe you even think twice about it anymore.

I'm picking up my Comptech SS this morning. Hopefully I'll have it in this weekend.
Thanks again for the pulley info - after reading this post I've added it to my wish list!!!

 

If you are getting the SS you should REALLY consider getting the aluminum shifter bushings. If you open your hood and look directly below your throttle body you will see two round things attached to cables and you can grab them and move them back and forth, they are your shifter linkages. They have rubber bushings inside of them. The kit replaces the rubber bushings with solid aluminum units, it took me about 20 minutes to do. For 30 bucks I would definitely do it all over again. It really tightens the shifting up, gives it a more solid feel.

I ran my car at the 1/8th last night. Previous best time before the pulley and thermoblock spacers was a 9.5. I ran 9.29 two times in a row!!! Heck yeah!! I had to show a Hemi Charger what was up!! He ran a 9.5. I am working on getting vids up.

 

ok... the bushings are installed under the hood? So I can go ahead and put the ss on and do the bushing when I get it?

Where do I get one?

Man, I'm glad that I'm not stationed at Campbell or I'd be broke.

 

You can install either seperately. The SS installs at the shifter of course, if you need help let me know I did all work to my car myself.
without SS:

With SS:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...hifter+bushing

get them from this guy: MrHeeltoe he is a member on the forum.

 

Do I need help???? Well, if you're not doing anything and don't mind me driving up from Hood - j/k.

There is a really good DIY on here for the SS and I'm gonna do it tomorrow morning. Thanks for the info on the bushing. I'll get with MrHeeltoe and get one of those ordered.

Thanks for all the help,
JC

 

I am assuming that is a OEM Size UR Pulley you have there correct?? I bought mines back in August and still have not had the chance to install it yet. LOL!!!

Can't wait to see those #'s!!!

 

No, underdrive.

 

 

Nice work. How did you go about removing the stock crank bolt ?

Also did you use the gates belt they suggest in the instructions ?

For the new pulley, how did you torque the bolt ?. Thanks.

 

breaker bar and another guy helping. Tranny in 6th gear with someone holding foot on brakes.

Was sent a napa belt, 060820

torqued per UR's instructions with torque wrench

 

Did you purchase the RSX bushings? Have read the thread on shifter bushings and a few state that the RSX bushings fit the TL. Thanks and great job on the type-s thus far!

 

I really honestly have no clue. when I called mrheeltoe to order my Tein SS and EDFC he recommended them so I ordered those too. I love em. They tighten up the shifting so much, I am going to go get som GM fluid too, that should complete my transmission.

 

Nice kill in both runs. What was your 1/4mile time slip??

 

there isnt a 1/4 around here... Only the ol 1/8th

 

9.29 wil be around 14.3 in the 1/4

and im guessing youll pull 250 on the dyno. highly doubt itll be above 260 unless its on a dynojet

 

I would have guessed 250 or so on the dyno as well, the CAI was good for like 3hp to the wheels on a 3.2

 

ill guess 240 hp and 220 lb ft

 

Hey Tony ~ You make it to the dyno yet? I've been wondering what your dyno result are going to be?

 

Not yet, the guy was supposed to call me back this week, I am going to call him tomorrow and see whats up. I will DEFINITELY post the results once I do dyno it.

 

nice job. time for the procats.

 

I am not sure I will do those. The Type S already has high flow cats, 600 particle counts to where the stock TL has 1000 particle counts cats and the e-pro's are 200 particle counts. Is it worth it for a grand? Maybe someone would buy my cats if I did get the e-pro's...

 

you will still see gains, also keep in mind you are up .3L over the stock TL

 

im surprised people havent looked into clearing the pre cats

 

I wonder if that wpould cause a CEL. And if not what would be the difference between clearing the pro cats or the factory cats??

 

The result would be an "obstruction free" exhaust manifold... but it would reich havoc on the o2 sensors and thus your engine tuning.

Without a way to manage the ECM, that's a very bad idea... and kinda environementally unresponsible. It is 77 degrees in Washington DC on Januarary 6th... Let's not be part of the global problem for 3 more HP.

 

i actually just tried to install my pulley this afternoon on my 5AT, and can't get the bolt off, at all. I tried almost everything and my IR 1/2 drive impact wrench can't even budge it. I guess i am gonna have to bring it to the mechanic with a 3/4 inch impact.
i love in the instructions:
6MT: 6th gear and foot on the brake.
5AT: consult owners manual.

 

you must be doing something wrong, my 1/2" dewalt cordless has 300 ft-lbs of torque, more than enough to get that bolt off.

i assume you are using an air impact gun, which should have almost double the torque.

 

mine was hard as hell too. And keep in mind my car is brand new. Had to have someone help me with a 1/2 inch breaker bar. I am not the strongest guy in the world but I'm not weak either, was very surprised how tight it was.

 

have you taken the bolt off with your dewalt? all i know is that there is nothing i can be doing wrong. the bolt needs to come off, and it is supposed to spin counter clockwise.

I have the IR 231 Classic, supposed
Working torque.............................25-300 ft.-lbs. (34-408 Nm)
Maximum torque...........................425 ft.-lbs. (578 Nm)

it wont take it off, even with penetrating oil

 

I tried an impact first too, no way. You need a breaker bar. OR you can do it the ghetto way of putting a breaker bar on it about 6 inches from the ground and crank the engine so the negine throws the breaker bar down adn break it loose that way. LMAO!!! I am seriuosly not suggesting this, something I have heard of people doing. Funny though.

 

i think the torque spec is 187 lb-ft for that bolt.

i think the hardest part is making sure the pulley doesnt turn at the same time.

yea, thats kind of the backyard shop mechanic method:
"you disconnect the fuse for ignition using a breaker bar pinned against the floor and turn the car over with a good size breaker bar you should be able to do it by hand ...some one will have to hold the breaks though"

im not condoning it, but im sure it works.