Why am I blowing subs

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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 11:08 PM
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Why am I blowing subs

Just blow my second subwoofer(jl audio 10w6v2-d4) in a custom sealed enclosure made by uncald4. Its powered by a jl audio 500/1v2 amp. At high volume it makes a popping sound and my first did the same thing. what could be wrong.
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 11:11 PM
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My amp is set @ 75 hz(2 ohms) and input sensitivity gain is At 31.6v
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 02:13 AM
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That amp shouldn't be able to blow that sub. Do you know what the enclosure volume is? I know uncalled4 acted as if enclosure specs were top secret, even the most basic things such as volume or tuning frequency of the ported boxes. If the box is a lot larger than recommended, 500w can bottom the sub.

JL virtually has zero quality control issues, I don't want to rule the sub out based solely on their rep but two W6s blown are not likely a subwoofer issue.

Can you describe exactly how it happened? Did the sub always make this sound at high volumes or did it happen over time? Did it ever have a burned smell? Does it sound normal at moderate volume with the only issue being when it's turned up? Do you run a subsonic filter?

Have you tried running the sub free air, outside of the enclosure and listen for noise? I wouldn't rule out the enclosure making the noise or connections. If you push on the cone and let go, does the sub come back out instantly or does it slowly return?

It's always possible the amp is faulty and blowing the subs as well. How did you wire the voice coils? Both are getting power, right?
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
That amp shouldn't be able to blow that sub. Do you know what the enclosure volume is? I know uncalled4 acted as if enclosure specs were top secret, even the most basic things such as volume or tuning frequency of the ported boxes.
Nah

His dumb ass just didn't know.

I remember asking him what his ported box was tuned to

He said, "tuned for rock".
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 07:13 AM
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Arrow

[QUOTE=I hate cars;13884406]That amp shouldn't be able to blow that sub. Do you know what the enclosure volume is? I know uncalled4 acted as if enclosure specs were top secret, even the most basic things such as volume or tuning frequency of the ported boxes. If the box is a lot larger than recommended, 500w can bottom the sub.

JL virtually has zero quality control issues, I don't want to rule the sub out based solely on their rep but two W6s blown are not likely a subwoofer issue.

Can you describe exactly how it happened? Did the sub always make this sound at high volumes or did it happen over time? Did it ever have a burned smell? Does it sound normal at moderate volume with the only issue being when it's turned up? Do you run a subsonic filter?

Have you tried running the sub free air, outside of the enclosure and listen for noise? I wouldn't rule out the enclosure making the noise or connections. If you push on the cone and let go, does the sub come back out instantly or does it slowly return?

It's always possible the amp is faulty and blowing the subs as well. How did you wire the voice coils? Both are getting power, right?[/QUOTE

Thanks for the response.

At high volume where I was playing a song with a lot of bass it started to pop. Volume is set on the HU to 30-32. It's been a total of 3 years and I went through 2 subs. At normal playing subs sounds good with NO popping sound. I didn't smell anything from sub or amp. My subsonic is off. I test the sub free and in another car still popping at high volume. I wouldn't say 30-32 is high. The sub is set at 2 ohms in parralle and the gain is set at 31.6 v
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 07:34 AM
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LOLOLOL i fuggin lol'd @ "tuned for rock"
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 08:56 AM
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Best thing to do would be take pictures of the sub with the wiring like you have it so we can just make sure and check off the possibility of a fault in wiring. Take a pic of the amp controls so we can see where your gain is at.

1. Do you have a line driver?
2. Where are you tapping the signal? (before amp or in the trunk using factory sub wires)
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 09:05 AM
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The sub has to counteract the opposing air in order to sund right at crossover point. Should be facing front or back.
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey
Best thing to do would be take pictures of the sub with the wiring like you have it so we can just make sure and check off the possibility of a fault in wiring. Take a pic of the amp controls so we can see where your gain is at.

1. Do you have a line driver?
2. Where are you tapping the signal? (before amp or in the trunk using factory sub wires)
RCA 's from my uncald4 PnP RF amp to my jl amp
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 11:20 AM
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You say 31.6 volts, but at what volume level does the amp reach 31.6? Meaning, if you set it at 31.6 volts with the radio volume at 10, then at 28-30 it would be much higher and potentially be the problem. If this is the case, you are clipping the amp with will eventually burn the coils out on the sub.
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 11:30 AM
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My HU is set to 3/4 high so 30 then I set my amp to 31.6v.
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 11:37 AM
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How much excursion does it have when it's popping? The 10W6 has about 1.75" peak to peak mechanical excursion before it will bottom out and make the popping sound.
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 11:49 AM
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Not sure but sub bounces pretty hard. Should I buy another one or a 10w3? W6$500 w3$200
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 11:58 AM
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You might just be bottoming it. The W6 has a little more excursion and sounds a little better. If you need more output I would go with a 12 or 13.5 in the W3 or W6, two 10W3s, or a 10W7. I don't think you will be hurting that one. A 10W6 might fit in your existing box but since you don't know the box volume, who knows if it would sound right. The other option would be a 10W3 in a ported box.

For now, turn the subsonic filter on and enjoy.
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by stevemk07
The sub has to counteract the opposing air in order to sund right at crossover point. Should be facing front or back.
Huh?

Originally Posted by Joey tl
RCA 's from my uncald4 PnP RF amp to my jl amp
Is it just passing through the RF amp or is the signal being modified through the amp? I would redo that setup, that amp has proven to not work very well in the TL.
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 01:15 PM
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I would figure out your issue before purchasing and blowing another sub. Where is your gain set at?? If you can't take a pic, just tell us in terms of hands on a clock or fractions. Is it halfway or 3/4 the way or 1/4, etc?? Also, how did you set the voltage correctly? DMM?

It's pretty obvious you're driving it too hard and likely bottoming it out. I'm going to say your amp is clipping like crazy if you're using the dirty, but higher voltage post amp signal. Pretty funny that everyone is having problems with these little PnP Rockfords lol. I posted in that thread fairly early saying I'd be leery of running that, but people see convenience and jump.
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 05:27 PM
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 05:32 PM
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if i buy a w3, what better 2 or 4 ohm woofer to go with this amp
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Old Jul 5, 2012 | 06:04 PM
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 06:36 AM
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dcon>w3

$200 would even get u a gcon
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 11:34 AM
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How can I figure out how much cubic feet is in my subwoofer enclosure
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 11:38 AM
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Put something in it (not water) that you can then poor into a cardboard box, level it out and measure. 1ft^3 = 1728 cubic inches.

Use something small but will come out clean. Packing peanuts work pretty well, but you can use pretty much anything.
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 06:13 PM
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best sub for 400-500 dollars,for my setup, uncald4 10" box with my jl 500/1v2?
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 06:30 PM
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Figure out the issue before buying another

With that being said, the IDmax from Sonicelectronix is a CRAZY good buy for $220
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey
Figure out the issue before buying another

With that being said, the IDmax from Sonicelectronix is a CRAZY good buy for $220
techs from JL told me I over powered my sub
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Old Jul 9, 2012 | 08:09 PM
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Overpowered, probably not. Actually i highly doubt it. Clipping the hell out of the amp, possibly. Your gains are pretty low though as they should be on the post-amp signal. I really wonder what that little RF amp is doing. That amp is a pos from everything I see...for our cars I mean. I really think your problem lies elsewhere. It's up to you, I just would hate to see ya keep wasting money
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 10:28 AM
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You need the input voltage switch set to High if you are going to use a signal over 2 volts on that amp. The JL slash amps will take speaker level high voltage inputs through the RCAs, but 36 volts is pretty high. Low is for like .2 to 2 volts... high is for .8 to 8, or something like that.

If it pops, then you are ruining it. It is just a single W6 in a probably-too-small box, so don't expect it to win too many SPL competitions. Keep the volume in check. That being said, that 500/1 should put out 500w of solid power without clipping.

I would look for a 12 that will work in a .75 cu ft box, just in case. I will be that thing is not even a cubic foot.
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by jda123
You need the input voltage switch set to High if you are going to use a signal over 2 volts on that amp. The JL slash amps will take speaker level high voltage inputs through the RCAs, but 36 volts is pretty high. Low is for like .2 to 2 volts... high is for .8 to 8, or something like that.

If it pops, then you are ruining it. It is just a single W6 in a probably-too-small box, so don't expect it to win too many SPL competitions. Keep the volume in check. That being said, that 500/1 should put out 500w of solid power without clipping.

I would look for a 12 that will work in a .75 cu ft box, just in case. I will be that thing is not even a cubic foot.
Good to see you back finally.
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey
I really wonder what that little RF amp is doing. That amp is a pos from everything I see...for our cars I mean.
I've got that amp and have had no problems with it.
It's tiny, puts out a decent amount of power, and accepts balanced differential inputs. I really think it was the application that caused the problems - running it at an improper ohm load in a tight space with no room to breathe with tiny power and ground connections.
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 11:36 AM
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Yeah, that was kinda confusing the way I said it. I meant for the guys that were trying to squeeze in a little bit of extra power at running it a 2ohms over the factory amp. Sad to see a "vendor" doing something that OBVIOUSLY wouldn't work and selling it to everyone that doesn't know any better
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 08:33 PM
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So there no way you guys thing my amp couldnt blow my sub





My amp is set @2ohms 500x1 rms straight to the sub and gains are set properly at 30 on the HU

Maybe when I cranked my HU to 37 I might of screw something up
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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 12:57 AM
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I had 500 on each of my 12w6 @ they could easily take more. I'm sure it's possible if the voltage is too high, but I truly don't see it happening. I'm not exactly sure what it could be though lol
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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 07:22 AM
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Thanks for everyone's help. I'm going to measure the size of my box and post.
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