Thanks for a great DYI. It took me about 1 hour last night to do this and it came out perfect!!

My only problem that slowed me down was I thought I actually cut the end off V1 wire and wired into fuse box. After deciding that it wasnt right...should have noticed the thickness of the red wire...I went to my V1 box and found the hardwire unit. Ran a black phone cord over again and wired into box. Everything works perfect and install looks very professional.

I chose to mount my V1 just barely under the rearview and on the drivers side. Clear shot front and back.

Thanks again for the pics/write-up. Much better then having cubbie open with the lighter adapter sticking out.

 

That is what i was planning... I have not put it (an 8500) in the TL yet, I keep it in my Maxima for now, since it being a manual, I have a tendancy to drive a little more 'aggressive' in it than the TL... (don't laugh!! it's a very quick car for a 92, almost as fast as the TL (190hp, possibly underated, C&D in the 11/91 issue got 0-60 in 6.7, 1/4 in 15.3, and then 0-60 in 7.0 in the 8/92 issue)... anyhow... i will probably buy another 8500, maybe the blue one, for the TL...

But, what i was planning on doing, like "stocks2k" did, is take the power from the overhead console... not sure if the homelink power is switched or not, and I know the lights are not switched, but the sunroof and auto-dimming mirror are both switched, so there is switched power up there for sure, and since i plan on putting mine just above the rear view mirror, that should work very nicely.

 

I have a beltronics 965... can I just use a black phone wire with the phone rj11 connector on the end of it? I am guessing it can handle the 12v and probably not that much current draw from the radar?

I am also looking to tap into the overhead console by the dome lights ? anyone have any ideas on the best place to tap in? these are likely fused anyway correct?

thanks so much!!!

 

I think you can avoid running liong wires and disassembling A-pillar by connecting radar detectors to the poer wire to the mirror- it should have clean ACC 12V on it.

 

Not sure how it would work out with staying on/off when the car is off.

And the other reason for stretching those wires was to get to the Consealed display. I have it wired the way it says in the thread (took about 15 minutes tops) and I love it

 

You may be right given it only took you 15 min to complete. I got 2 little kids, so I would lock the other windows when driving, which if I read the thread correctly would kill the power to the radar when I drive with the kids--- which is not good.

 

you don't HAVE to tap into window fuse. You can use others

 

You're right, for a detector with a consealed dispaly it is a different story.
Mirror power will be off when car is off. Isn't it what a radar detector needs?

 

would the r/c mirror fuse be a good one? i'm doing this tomorrow in my 03 3.2tl before my drive to austin from dallas.

 

Where did you put the concealed display?

 

Did u need to buy a Direct-Wire Power Adapter separately from V1 to hard wire it to the fuse???

 

No, the V1 includes in the box a Direct-wire Power Adapter. You use the long uncoild cord from the Direct-wire connection to the V1. They have always included two Power Adapters, One Direct-wire, the other a Lighter Adapter. What's also very nice is that the power cord for the unit is a RJ-11 so you can make your own if the two supplied cords are not long enough.

 

I don't mean to bring up an old thread...but 2 things. First this thread was very informative. I tried a whole bunch of fuses, but they all turned the radar on right away, not when the car turned on. Then I used the search button, and that's the second thing. The search button really works. The fuse for the windows turns the radar on when you turn the car on...plus you can turn the radar on/off using the window lock button. Thanks for the great post.

 

My turn to resurrect an old thread from the grave.

How are you keeping the V1 cable tucked behind the mirror panel (assuming you place the V1 to the right of the rearview mirror, and route the cable down the left A-pillar)? There's enough gap between the overhead console and the windshield that it doesn't really grasp the cable, so I have problems with it working it's way out. Not a big eye sore, but I'd like to clean it up a little bit if posible.

 

I've got my Passport 8500 wired into the car, and it's in the same position you are describing. Can't you just tuck the wire into the headliner / plastic piece housing Homelink, dome lights...etc?

 

So I have it tucked into the headliner, but it's the plastic housing for homelink/domes/etc that has enough of a gap that the cable doesn't want to stay concealed under there. It's not a huge gap, but enough that the cable can shift around and pop back out.

 

followed this and it worked beautifully. only tip i'd add is to wrap the line with tape to thicken it up when you hide it in the headliner.

 

ive had mine installed for about 3 weeks... same instalation as outlined except mine is clipped on the drivers side sun visor.. havent had the wire pop out yet...

 

See'in has people are still strugglin' with this ... I took pics of my install session so maybe it'll clarify some stuff for ya'll.

Note: The V1 direct wire install does not require ANY extra hardwire than what came in the box with the radar.

Supplies:
- V1 Radar
- The LONG straight power cord with the telephone connection ends. (As opposed to the coiled power cord)
- The direct power adapter.
- Scissors or wire strippers.
- 30-45 minutes of your time.

Remove the plastic panel that is around the fuse box. To be able to loosen this panel up enough, you'll have to loosen up the plastic panel that's directly underneath the steering wheel (look at the orginal post with that 1 picture). There are 4 spots that the panel around the fuse box are connected to the car with. The red arrows are like 2 plugs and the 2 blue arrows are like tabs.






For the direct wire ground you can use this bolt to hold it down to the metal behind it. You dont' have to remove the screw entirely. Just loosen it up enough to wedge the ground in behind it, then tighten the screw again.



Now for this power wire coming off of the adapter ... cut the tip off the red wire completly off, then use your wire strippers or some scissors to expose around 1/4 inch of the wire.



Now take this fuse out. Then at the same time as putting the fuse back in, feed in the 1/4" of exposed wire from the red wire into fuse box with the fuse. I searched FOREVER thinking of why there wasn't a "window lock" fuse marked ... but you actually put it into the fuse for any other window but the drivers door! Because when you hit the "window lock button" on the door ... it cuts the power from the other windows ... THUS cutting the power from the radar!



Here's a pic of where I put the direct power adapter and just stuffed the rest of the long black cord behind the panel. Note: There are 2 plugs in the adapter: Make sure you put your power wire in the correct plug!



As far as the thing power wire running from the radar down the pillar ... use some $2.00 dollar velcro from your nearest Staples, etc. and stuff it in the crack as much as desired to hold the wire up there. Before you put the piller and panels back together ... make sure you have enough slack to position the radar where you would like it to be placed.




Final Product:
I mounted my radars front sensor just below the front windsheilds tint strip.

 

To add to this I now have used a zip tye to secure the cord to the rear view mirror. After the second time that my V1 collided with my dash and pulling out the slack from above the headliner, I decided a safety secure point was necessary before it fell on my Navi screen. I was afraid it would eventually crack or scratch the navi screen.

 

I am just asking. Has anyone followed this DIY for a V1 install on an 07 TL-S?? Any updates or pretty much still the same layout? Any new photos or other tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

I would like to know as well.

 

as an aside, there is a power point on the panel just above the fuse panel, the one with the relays. You can't see it in these pictures, but it's there. I found it looking at the wiring diagram. There is a Battery and Ignition terminal. BUT Honda in their infinite wisdom does not mark them on the panel, nor are they a 'standard' plug/pin/spadeLug/fuse/etc.

Rat bastards.

 

I just hardwired my V1 on my 07 type-S. I bought an add-a-circuit only to find out the max amp on it was 10 and the fuse for the rear windows are 20s, so I just straight wired it in just like AcurasGhost's example:

My question is, is it safe to wire it like this? Is there a possibility of the V1 getting jacked up permanently?

 

I've been using it for 1 yr straight like this and have never, ever had a problem.

 

Very useful. I wanna sell my solo and get a V1 but I don't think it'll be happening anytime soon if ever.

But yea, def. nice job on the easy to follow pictures

 

Just my 2 cents on this thread...
I followed it as well. My V1 is mounted in the upper left corner of the windshield, which is great, as it's invisible unless you're inside the car.

I removed the A-pillar and ran the "V1 telephone wire" wire down the wire loom and installed with a add a fuse as described in this thread.

I then ran an extra telephone wire across the underside of the dash, drill a small hole in the bottom cubby pocket, and installed the V1 remote display here:



It's worked out really well. It's secured to the underside of the door (via 3m tape), so it rotates as you close the door.

Out of sight out of mind, at least to the LE officer in your window.

 

nice

 

This is the method I used to hardwire:

https://acurazine.com/forums/car-talk-5/what-great-year-end-price-tl-s-need-help-asap-89682/

It doesn't allow for the use of the remote display, but I don't use it anyway. The power is switched by the key. With the invisicord, it took me about 15 minutes to install.

Dave

 

sorry to bring this up again but im going to try to do this on my tsx next week (first time im doing anything electrical) and i wanted to know how you attached it to the fuse. also i wanted to know if the voltage is the same for both cars for the power windows since i like the idea of beaing able to switch it off. thanks.

 

how well does V1 work behind the tint strip? is that the appropriate place for it or should it be lower on the windshield?

 

definately not behind the tint strip....just below it works for me.

 

kennedy
is the unit you have shown in the picutre an add-on, or does that display unit come with the v1

 

It's an add on accessory from V1. Very handy as radar is illegal in VA. If a cop is trailing you at night, and zaps you, he'll see your windshield mounted detector "Light up". When this unit is plugged in, your windshield based detector operates in stealth mode... all visual signal and lights ONLY come through the remote face.

I've been pulled over 2X with this unit (non speeding incidents), and the cop never saw the detector in the upper left corner of the windshield. I just clodsed the little bay door as he approached...

 

Thanks Kennedy,
one more question i have is does the v1 really work that well mounted so high on the windshield? every detector that i have ever used had to be mounted lower on the windshield for optimal preformance. would it be possible to see a picture of what yours looks like mounted, i've seen what it looks like mounted near the mirror. thanks.

 

V1 is like all others in that respect, it performs optimally where it can "see as much of the road as possible... Traditionally, this is centered under the mirror.

I compromise a very small amount of performance to keep my install stealth. It seems to be working great in the upper left corner, but ideally, it would be best placed center windshield.

 

Must be nice to live in an area where they are legal...I'm sure my local police would enjoy RIPPING this out of my car if I got caught with it...

 

A few year ago around here (north of Montreal) the local cops destroyed a Volvo V70R Wagon's leather interior to get the detector.

So better beware how you react when the detector goes off as you do not want to tip them about your equipment.

 

Going back to the install topic, I went through the first few steps threading the line down the driver a-pillar. However, when i got to the hardwiring part, I realized the line was long enough to reach over to my right knee. That's where I have a socket splitter double-sided taped to the side of the center console. The socket splitter line (noncoiled) then goes to the center storage compartment socket.

I've always had the socket splitter for charging my phone and using my old beltronics detector simultaneously. Ended up it was very conveniently placed. No need for hardwiring and makes a no dangling line install take only 5 minutes (or a couple of red stoplights).

 

I followed these instructions to a T and it was very easy. Only problem is now that when I switch my car off the radar stays on and I have to manually turn it off. I forgot one afternoon and when I got back to the car I noticed the radar went off on its own is there a way to make it turn off when the car switchs off. Any help Thanks.