i know this is not the normal thread about how the passenger side seat has 2 less perforations other the drivers side or a poll about how many times you change stations while driving, but maybe it will be useful to some...



















i used the power window fuse--an added benefit i found later was that i could cut the power to the V1 by hitting the window lockout switch--nice!

i put the ground behind the bracket for the hood release







took about 20-25 min taking my time.

 

Pefect and informative thread. Thanks.


If everyone could provide info like this, this forum would be even better.

 

This one is great and very useful, too.

http://www.acura-tl.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68622

 

I'm not an idiot, im just young, but is a V1 = radar detector?

 

yep

http://www.valentine1.com/

 

DeanDorsey: Thank you very much. I wanted to hardwire my V1, but couldn't find a good installer. The pictures help out a lot...you just made my day.

By the way...my passenger seat has 4 less perforations than my drivers seat.

 

ill try to post up some more stuff as soon as i get more time

 

Outstanding! Are the fuses clearly labeled or which fuse is the Power Window fuse?

Also, what's the brown thing hanging our of the side curtain airbag label? Is that just the tool you used to take that out?

Thanks

 

yes, and it's a rusty bent screwdriver

 

I nominate this post for sticky status.

Don

 

I agree!

 

very helpfull thanx for the pics. BTW how do you get the panal off by the fuse box?

 

the small panel slides out exposing the fuses--the whole plastic side kick panel has to be "gently maneuvered" off-basically pulling up and out

 

thnx

 

Awesome thread. Thanks for taking the time to snap the pics and post!

 

Finally, someone gets it. The picture make the thread!

 

I have a dumb question. Can someone post step-by-step instructions on how to splice the plug on the the V1 direct wire adapter to fit into one of the fuse box plugs? I know there's a kit I can use (it's in other threads), but what are the actual mechanics of the splice? I can do everything else in this installation EXCEPT for that.

Or does the direct wire adapter plug into a slot in the fusebox without further modification? (In which case it seems to be "plug and play" and I have no issues.

Thank you.

 

all my pics turned to x's WTF haha---

hold the exposed metal from the red wire in the fuse hole and at the same time slide the fuse in. it may take a couple times to get it right so that the fuse goes all the way in

does that help at all??

 

That helps a lot. I didn't realize it was that easy. Will try it tonight if I can get home from work. Thank you!

I can see your pix fine, they're very simple to follow.

 

That is a great solution, what I did and have done in several cars is take down the overhead assembly that has the map lights and tap into a power and ground wire up there. It is connected to the sunroof so it only powers on with the ignition and you only have to run the wire a few inches. Definitely worth looking into. Running wire down the A pillar next to the airbag worries me a little.

 

The good news is that having the V1 mounted lower, like right next to the A-pillar, only reduces its detection distance slightly, and that would be for an over the hill attack only, since radar is line of sight device, other than backspray from relfected RF energy. Since the gendarmes in Va do not take kindly to seeing things attached to the windshield, I always go the A-pillar route, run the wires down to the fuse panel, using a flat blade or plastic trim kit made for Hondas to push the wires down behnd the interior trim. I use the key switched power tap, to ensure the power is on only when i want it on - the window idea is clever and I like it. Good post.

 

Seems like there would be 12 volt power to the overhead console for the lights and homelink. Anyone know?

 

There is.

 

Well this thread helps alott, n makes better sense to people who know what they are doing. I got the add-a-circuit from autozone, got the screw driver and accessed the fused box. But after that i was tumped, i had no clue, what to do with the red wire, what to do with the black wire, how to connect them. So im left the lighter adapter as my alternative. I cud get it done thru best buy or circuit city, but im jus too curious to do this on my own now, jus for the fun or learnin process of it. Please help...

 

stumped*

 

I am not sure what your kit is, but this could really not be any simpler. The red wire is for the positive (+) battery connection. But for a circuit to be completed, one needs a ground (-) so that current "flow" can occur. That would be the black wire. So the red goes to a known BATT connection, generally you want it to be switched (that is, it provides juice from the batt when the ignition key is in Run). You can determine this by using a single DVM (digital volt meter), or by buying a cheap tool that lights up when you have current continuity (+ to -, or positive to ground) and the ignition in run (one less than Start position).

Once you have the + you want, you locate a body ground (-). In Hondas, there are usually star grounds, where a number of black wires with "ring" connectors are attached to a bolt which makes a firm connection to body ground (like the big wire that runs from the NEG terminal oif the Batt to a solid part on the car's body.

Usually, one uses a red female spade connector on the red wire to connect to the male in the fuse panel, and a black ring connector attached to the black wire and attached by loosening the bolt that retains the other ring connectors, which radiate in all directions, simiular to a star, whichis why they are called a star ground (makes sense(.

If done right, when you cobble it all together, and turn the key to Rubn pisition, you will see and hear the V1 go throught its pre-flight check, then settle down to the disolay mode you have chosen.

if you are still confused, I either need to improve my writing skills, or you need to head on down to your friendly auto sound system installer, and pay them to do it. Should not be more than $25-$40, tops.

 

hmmm okay so lemme get this straight. I dont know if u seen the add-a-circuit that u can get from autozone. But that has a red wire running out from it, which i now know is the positive. I connect, my kit supplied by V1, which has both red and black wires. I take the red wires (from V1's kit, and connect it to the red wire supplied by add-a-circuit), and i connect them, and find a star ground located near the hood release i believe and connect that to the black wire. and then take the add-a-circuit and connect it to one of the fuse boxes in the car. I see three emtpy fuse boxes so i can utilize one of those. Am i near anywhere on track ????

 

You got it buddy! Listen to RR (sorry the system says I can't give you any more rep points, RR!!!! )

 

What?????? My bonus is tied to those points. My wife and daughter will go hungry, begging int he streets for sustenance.

I do appreciate those points - someday I will figure out where they place me in line in Heaven (or the other place some might say).

Thx, neuronbob, for the votes of confidence. Hiw does one see someone else's rep points, to see if they are bogus or real contributors?

Thx!

 

Awesome post. THANKS

 

This was so helpful!!! I just finished following your pictured instructions, and after a little over an hour (being very careful), my radar detector hardwiring is finished. Thank you so much for this post, I no longer have to have a tacky cord hanging down over my beautiful dash. Also the detector is mounted high where it works best. Wonderful!!!

 

Can you please list the steps for removing the window panel?

I ordered the service manual but it has not shipped yet.
thanks

 

Where did you purchase the Honda plastic trim kit? I'm assuming the kit includes tools to get the panels off.
I searched and could not find anything.
thanks

 

Its really very simple. Just take a butter knife or so (i used one, and its thin enough to slip without damaging anything) and slide it under the "srs airbag" socket and yank it out (dont be afraid).And then pull on it to remove the window panel. Rest is all downhill from there, pretty much.

 

When you say pull on it to remove the panel, does the srs socket come completely off and then you pull from the exposed area where the socket was to remove the panel?
thanks for the reply!

 

No the socket pulls the panel out, the socket itself wont come out, and when you have to put it back, it pops right in. Just do a test try, and youd see what im talking about.

 

Cool, thanks for the details. I'll give it a try after work today and report back.

 

Just completed the install, the process took me about 30 min. I struggled at first bc I didn't realize I had to cut off the metal connector on the end of the red wire to expose the wires. I kept trying to shove the metal connector in at the same time as the fuse....

thanks for the detailed instructions!

 

I have my Passport 8500 hardwired into my Accord much like the TL post. But since the 8500 is much thinner then the V1, I have it directly above my rear view mirror in the blue tint part of the windshield.

I think the Valentine sight list merits for this placement. I like it behind the blue tint on account you can't see the detector outside the car, great for use in parking lots if you ask me. The unit is near invisiable from outside the car.

I haven't noticed any decrease in responce either so I plan to leave it above the mirror. Not sure what I will install in the wife's TSX, I may just use a Solo II in her car since I don't drive it everyday but I would like a unit in her car for me.

 

Great Post

Acurazine should open a new section called (DIY) do it yourself or garage section to place these kinds of posts.

I have a Dell X50 Pocket PC that I use being in sales and I am now wondering if I can hardwire that in the same manner. It seems to me that it is only 6 volts instead of 12 so I fear it may not work.

With the PDA and my phone I have the adapters full at this point and I actually hate having the crap all plugged in and the wires everywhere

Indy