V1 install
06-25-2007, 08:44 PM
#81
Originally Posted by sloppymop
I followed these instructions to a T and it was very easy. Only problem is now that when I switch my car off the radar stays on and I have to manually turn it off. I forgot one afternoon and when I got back to the car I noticed the radar went off on its own is there a way to make it turn off when the car switchs off. Any help Thanks.
07-28-2007, 04:20 AM
#82
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My son and I performed this install on my 07 TL-S last night. We did not put the remote display in the center console but using the velcro placed it on the lower dashboard above the gas pedal. I can see the display fine through the 3 o'clock and 5 o'clock positions on the steering wheel. I did not want to give up my center dash storage. This works wonderfully. Also the service manager advised against removing the a pillar cover, said he had one come back with broken clips. I used a cheap plastic spoon to push the cable between the headliner and the A pillar cover, and then under the black rubber stripping running down the door. USE THE WINDOW LOCK FUSE!!! except for the pushing of the wire under the fuse this works great (I hate this power method almost as much as the 3M wire splices. The only proper way to wire in a radar detector is using a a soldering iron and shrink wrap). Although I am an older guy here I have done a bunch of audio installs since I was 16. This works great. I strongly advise this method of installation.
08-03-2007, 06:00 PM
#84
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Originally Posted by why1504
except for the pushing of the wire under the fuse
08-04-2007, 07:48 AM
#85
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Well It is really, really nice to have a button on the door to kill the power to the V1. I was not up for disassembly of the fuse block just to find one wire to cut and solder into. No question this is the preferred method. Add a fuse also works but I for one like the using the window lock to kill the detector. I decided I would try it like this and if I didn't feel like it was worth the negatives of this approach I would change it. I liked it and left it and will be installing one in my son's 05TL tomorrow for his birthday present. Hope this helps.
Also, this method is safe it is just not real clean at the fuse block.
Also, this method is safe it is just not real clean at the fuse block.
08-04-2007, 08:27 AM
#87
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One other thing. As the owner of many radar detectors, I prefer the V1 over all others. Here is the reason, I have had my V1 for 4 years and it was getting a bit tired. I began looking around, nothing seemed better so I was going to just get another one. I went to the website and they have a program where they will refurb your V1 for $85. What a deal, paid for 2 day shipping and had it back in one week and a day. Great service. Here is the thing, it suppresses falses better and seems more sensitive. I can tell a difference!!!
08-04-2007, 08:46 AM
#88
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Originally Posted by why1504
My son and I performed this install on my 07 TL-S last night. We did not put the remote display in the center console but using the velcro placed it on the lower dashboard above the gas pedal. I can see the display fine through the 3 o'clock and 5 o'clock positions on the steering wheel. I did not want to give up my center dash storage. This works wonderfully. Also the service manager advised against removing the a pillar cover, said he had one come back with broken clips. I used a cheap plastic spoon to push the cable between the headliner and the A pillar cover, and then under the black rubber stripping running down the door. USE THE WINDOW LOCK FUSE!!! except for the pushing of the wire under the fuse this works great (I hate this power method almost as much as the 3M wire splices. The only proper way to wire in a radar detector is using a a soldering iron and shrink wrap). Although I am an older guy here I have done a bunch of audio installs since I was 16. This works great. I strongly advise this method of installation.
i ve had mine installed in just about every place imagineable but for safety reasons ive found this latest place of installation to be the most efficient, safe, and practical.. the ease of viewing= more safety , taking eyes less farther away from where they need to be, on the road. looking further down at knees to read the arrows you didnt catch in time because by the time you heard the sound the arrows already flashed would be more risky/dangerous i think, also, this spot was pretty easy to access for the install, and last reason why i like this spot is for the low key factor too. just thought i should share the safety concern that;s all, no one wants to find anything out the hard way so i thought i should atleast mention it.
08-05-2007, 05:40 AM
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The fuse is a spare for the inline fuse, don't cut that out. I would never use one of those wire taps. They will oxidize and can cause a short. Mine didn't come with a car fuse. You will need the fuse puller on my 07 TL-S AT it is stowed under the hood.
08-26-2007, 03:15 PM
#94
'06 Acura TL
Noob Question
I have a Whistler Pro that i want to wire into the fuse panel so i can power it via pusing the Cruise Control On....i have the radar mounted to the lower center of my windshield....
Is this something i will be able to do as a noob?
do you just cut the cigarette adapter off and reveal the red and black wires? then wire them into the correct fuse panel?
also can anyone confirm that if i mount it next to my rear view mirror i wont get any less performance?
any help is appreciated, thanks.
Is this something i will be able to do as a noob?
do you just cut the cigarette adapter off and reveal the red and black wires? then wire them into the correct fuse panel?
also can anyone confirm that if i mount it next to my rear view mirror i wont get any less performance?
any help is appreciated, thanks.
08-30-2007, 03:46 PM
#96
Did the install Aug 2007 on an 05 TL...works great!
Just another thumbs up for the instructions on this post. I looked at this post and many others on this site on this subject. I debated about the add-a-circuit and the mirror hook up. I went with the original instructions by plugging the Valentine hardwire kit red line into the circuit box. Works great and I agree, it's good to have the kill switch in the driver window lockout button. I was lucky and had a relatively easy time hiding the wires. My last step is mounting the remote display.
I demoed putting it on the wheel, right in the middle and that looks to be a good spot. I considered putting it down below near the accessory slots but: 1) I didn't want to drill a hole; 2) didn't want to take my eyes too far off the front view. I figure if I'm concerned enough about the bogey count and direction, I'm probably going fast so for safety considerations I want to put it where my eyes will go anyway; to my speedometer. So now I can check both out in the same glance.
As for mounting my Valentine, I agree with the bulk of the comments of mounting it high. I'm a former military guy that knows electronic counter measures i.e. radar. Mounting higher is better. Although the exact percentage benefit can be debated, I don't think anyone can dispute the "higher is better" argument.
I decided to mount mine at the same height as my rear view but with the rear antenna exposed for clear rear view access. So mine can barely be seen from the back. The only drawback is that the volume controls are a little more cumbersome to control but that's not a big deal because I personally don't change the volume or settings that much. Plus if I need to mute, I can use my concealed display mute button.
Anyway, kudos on great instructions.
I demoed putting it on the wheel, right in the middle and that looks to be a good spot. I considered putting it down below near the accessory slots but: 1) I didn't want to drill a hole; 2) didn't want to take my eyes too far off the front view. I figure if I'm concerned enough about the bogey count and direction, I'm probably going fast so for safety considerations I want to put it where my eyes will go anyway; to my speedometer. So now I can check both out in the same glance.
As for mounting my Valentine, I agree with the bulk of the comments of mounting it high. I'm a former military guy that knows electronic counter measures i.e. radar. Mounting higher is better. Although the exact percentage benefit can be debated, I don't think anyone can dispute the "higher is better" argument.
I decided to mount mine at the same height as my rear view but with the rear antenna exposed for clear rear view access. So mine can barely be seen from the back. The only drawback is that the volume controls are a little more cumbersome to control but that's not a big deal because I personally don't change the volume or settings that much. Plus if I need to mute, I can use my concealed display mute button.
Anyway, kudos on great instructions.
09-27-2007, 03:32 AM
#99
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I did not remove my side pillars but used disposable plastic spoons to gently push the wire underneath the trim pieces. Service manager at the dealer suggested this. He told me he had replaced several A-pillar covers which had broken when the owner attempted to remove them. This was real easy.
09-29-2007, 12:11 AM
#103
Some do tap the power from the moon roof...there are actually instructions here that show you how to do that. Although I'm electrically proficient, I opted for the fuse box option so that I can cut my V1 using the window lock button...plus it was much easier and easier to put everything back together. Was done in under 30 mins as I recall.
09-30-2007, 01:17 AM
#104
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Originally Posted by USNA93
I found that there is enough room to just slide my wire behind the side pillar...no opening the entire pillar needed.
So it is actually in the side pillar? You did this with the trusty plastic spoon? I'll have to give it a try very soon. Haven't gotten teh V1 yet but have wanted one for a while. Today I was driving and 100mph feels just like 75mph.
10-01-2007, 07:26 PM
#105
Yes it's in the side pillar...my wire fit where the side pillar and front windshield join. I used a credit card so that I don't risk scratching anything...took no effort at all.
I've been tracking radar detectors for about 14 years...Valentine has always stood out. There are the naysayers but I think you'll find the V1 owners a pretty dedicated bunch. I suggest you try scoring one on Ebay. Also recommend the remote display. Mine's resting where the clock is. I fiddled around with places but like that one the best...personal preference. And you're right about the speed...I'm at 90mph before I know it. That has been the fun part getting used to my 6spd MT TL vs my old Honda!
I've been tracking radar detectors for about 14 years...Valentine has always stood out. There are the naysayers but I think you'll find the V1 owners a pretty dedicated bunch. I suggest you try scoring one on Ebay. Also recommend the remote display. Mine's resting where the clock is. I fiddled around with places but like that one the best...personal preference. And you're right about the speed...I'm at 90mph before I know it. That has been the fun part getting used to my 6spd MT TL vs my old Honda!
12-16-2007, 02:18 AM
#106
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To all you car electrical system novices out there, you can do this install, it worked perfectly for me. Aside from wiring basic home electronics (surround sound systems, ceiling fans, dimmers, etc.) I never messed with a car's electrical system or fuse box before. The kill switch was a great idea. Big thanks to DeanDorsey & Acurasghost for the detailed write-up with photos, your instructions were dead on.
12-16-2007, 09:05 AM
#107
Just installed my V1 with a conceal display at the bottom of the A-pillar, right at the edge where windshield meets the corner, nicely hidden behind registration sticker, and its effortless to see it (had this set-up in all cars I had)
The install took 40 mins in the dark, with my luck, my garage light decided to die on me.
Great thread. Thanks.
The install took 40 mins in the dark, with my luck, my garage light decided to die on me.
Great thread. Thanks.
12-17-2007, 05:55 PM
#108
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I installed my concealed display at the bottom of the speedometer pod as another poster did. So far I like the placement, your placement sounds good too. Easy to glance at and mute, my eyes are used to glancing down at the speedo anyway so I'm not forced to look too far down while driving. Safety-wise, some of those concealed installs down in the small storage compartments were too low for my comfort.
12-17-2007, 07:00 PM
#109
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Originally Posted by Liquidorca10
I installed my concealed display at the bottom of the speedometer pod as another poster did. So far I like the placement, your placement sounds good too. Easy to glance at and mute, my eyes are used to glancing down at the speedo anyway so I'm not forced to look too far down while driving. Safety-wise, some of those concealed installs down in the small storage compartments were too low for my comfort.
by the way, for the mute switch, there is a tiny little one sold on ebay that attaches to the end of your headlight/turn signal switch. its so much more convenient to hit the mute stiwch there than to reach for the speedo everytime. just FYI-its only like 10 bucks too.
Item number: 230203597536
or click this link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Valentine-One-1-...ayphotohosting
12-17-2007, 10:07 PM
#110
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Originally Posted by Royce Han
i agree
by the way, for the mute switch, there is a tiny little one sold on ebay that attaches to the end of your headlight/turn signal switch. its so much more convenient to hit the mute stiwch there than to reach for the speedo everytime. just FYI-its only like 10 bucks too.
Item number: 230203597536
or click this link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Valentine-One-1-...ayphotohosting
by the way, for the mute switch, there is a tiny little one sold on ebay that attaches to the end of your headlight/turn signal switch. its so much more convenient to hit the mute stiwch there than to reach for the speedo everytime. just FYI-its only like 10 bucks too.
Item number: 230203597536
or click this link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Valentine-One-1-...ayphotohosting
I can't re-call which thread I read it, but there is also someone that does custom multi-colored lightning on the remote display. It is tough to distinguish which radar band you are being hit with when viewing the remote at night as the red LED is uniform throughout. This guy will color code the LEDs to easier distingish the bands for a nominal fee.
12-17-2007, 10:14 PM
#111
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Originally Posted by Liquidorca10
Thanks for the info. on the remote mute button, I didn't know it existed. I can't re-call which thread I read it, but there is also someone that does custom multi-colored lightning on the remote display. It is tough to distinguish which radar band you are being hit with when viewing the remote at night as the red LED is uniform throughout. This guy will color code the LEDs to easier distingish the bands for a nominal fee.
I can't re-call which thread I read it, but there is also someone that does custom multi-colored lightning on the remote display. It is tough to distinguish which radar band you are being hit with when viewing the remote at night as the red LED is uniform throughout. This guy will color code the LEDs to easier distingish the bands for a nominal fee.
12-18-2007, 06:06 AM
#112
Originally Posted by Liquidorca10
I installed my concealed display at the bottom of the speedometer pod as another poster did. So far I like the placement, your placement sounds good too. Easy to glance at and mute, my eyes are used to glancing down at the speedo anyway so I'm not forced to look too far down while driving. Safety-wise, some of those concealed installs down in the small storage compartments were too low for my comfort.
I my V1 is always on mute because of where my conceal display is located, I always see it as I am driving. It's nice, its quiet, it works.
I'll try to post a pic.
12-28-2007, 06:16 PM
#113
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Ok. Not a V1, but a similar kind of install.
AM Cheap Portable Navi for our 2002 TL-S (I know. This is 3G, but I've got no reponses in 2G and this V1 install is the closest I could find to what we need to do).
So anyhow, my question:
Any reason not to hook into the Radio fuse/wire? Doesn't really matter for my application, I just need something that goes on and off with the key.
I don't need the ability to cut power with the window lock out button either.
So, what't the best tie in point at the fuse box (we're mounting near the A-Pillar on the lower left of the windsheild.)
Pics pf the provisional mounting point here:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=171790
Thanks for any advice.
AM Cheap Portable Navi for our 2002 TL-S (I know. This is 3G, but I've got no reponses in 2G and this V1 install is the closest I could find to what we need to do).
So anyhow, my question:
Any reason not to hook into the Radio fuse/wire? Doesn't really matter for my application, I just need something that goes on and off with the key.
I don't need the ability to cut power with the window lock out button either.
So, what't the best tie in point at the fuse box (we're mounting near the A-Pillar on the lower left of the windsheild.)
Pics pf the provisional mounting point here:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=171790
Thanks for any advice.
03-17-2008, 02:52 PM
#120
Originally Posted by TeknoKing
Just installed my V1 with a conceal display at the bottom of the A-pillar, right at the edge where windshield meets the corner, nicely hidden behind registration sticker, and its effortless to see it (had this set-up in all cars I had)
The install took 40 mins in the dark, with my luck, my garage light decided to die on me.
Great thread. Thanks.
The install took 40 mins in the dark, with my luck, my garage light decided to die on me.
Great thread. Thanks.
